Timing Belt Change
#1
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Timing Belt Change
Does anyone have any helpful info on a DIY( 2002, 2.7LV6 engine )Sonata
timing belt change. I have read the shop manual and other info and feel that
I am up to speed for the job. Will replace auto tensioner and may replace
water pump as well...60K miles. Jody told me to take my tuneup to a mechanic
but I did that job myself with great satisfaction and success and hope that
will be true in this case as well. Stan
timing belt change. I have read the shop manual and other info and feel that
I am up to speed for the job. Will replace auto tensioner and may replace
water pump as well...60K miles. Jody told me to take my tuneup to a mechanic
but I did that job myself with great satisfaction and success and hope that
will be true in this case as well. Stan
#2
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Re: Timing Belt Change
It'll typically go easiest if you pull the motor mount first. You'll need
a jack to put under the engine to raise it. You'll probably also want two
of those really big springy type paper clips. Here's what I can think of.
I hope it's pretty much all there.
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel.
2. Jack the right front wheel off the ground and install a jack stand.
3. Remove the right front wheel.
4. Remove the splash shield inside the right front fender.
5. Remove engine mount. You'll need to support the engine to get the
bolt out.
6. Jack the engine (use a block of wood between the oil pan and jack).
Using a 17mm wrench, relieve the belt tension and slip the belt off one of
the pulleys.
7. Remove the two 14mm bolts holding the p/s pump in place. You'll need
to move it around to remove the timing covers.
8. Remove the belt tensioner and belt.
9. Remove the crank pulley. If you don't have an impact gun, you will
probably have great difficulty due to the engine turning as you try to
loosen the crank pulley bolt.
10. Remove the timing covers.
11. Remove the 12mm bolt holding the oil dipstick tube to the engine
mount bracket.
12. Remove the 4 bolts attaching the mount bracket to the engine and
remove the bracket. (One 12mm and (I think) three 14mm).
13. Rotate the engine so the timing marks are lined up.
14. Remove the tensioner.
15. Remove the belt.
16. Install the new belt around the crank pulley and install an
appropriately sized thingamajiggy in the space under the belt between the
belt and the lip of the front case of the engine. I typically try sockets
until one of them fits in snugly. This will keep the new belt from
slipping out of place as you install it.
17. Pull the belt tight and install on the front camshaft so that the
camshaft timing mark is lined up (it may have moved when you pulled the
old belt off). Use one of the paper clips to hold the belt onto the
pulley.
18. Working from the front camshaft, pull the belt tight around the water
pump pulley and onto the rear camshaft so that the camshaft timing mark is
lined up and clip it in place with the other paper clip. You'll notice
that the rear camshaft won't want to stay in place. Don't worry about
that as long as the timing marks are lined up when the belt is tight.
19. Install the belt around the tensioner pulley.
20. Install the new tensioner. Remove the pin.
21. Turn the rear camshaft backward to remove the slack in the belt.
Check to verify the marks are lined up. Also check the extension of the
tensioner plunger. It should be 6-8 mm.
22. If all is okay, reinstall the crank pulley (don't tighten fully, just
enough to turn the engine) and turn the crank two revolutions and recheck
your marks. If everything is lined up, remove the pulley, and commence
reassembly.
Above all else, be careful. If you think it's even possible everything
may not be lined up properly, don't start the engine. The cost of your
repairs will make you wish you had paid the money to have the timing belt
done.
a jack to put under the engine to raise it. You'll probably also want two
of those really big springy type paper clips. Here's what I can think of.
I hope it's pretty much all there.
1. Loosen the lug nuts on the right front wheel.
2. Jack the right front wheel off the ground and install a jack stand.
3. Remove the right front wheel.
4. Remove the splash shield inside the right front fender.
5. Remove engine mount. You'll need to support the engine to get the
bolt out.
6. Jack the engine (use a block of wood between the oil pan and jack).
Using a 17mm wrench, relieve the belt tension and slip the belt off one of
the pulleys.
7. Remove the two 14mm bolts holding the p/s pump in place. You'll need
to move it around to remove the timing covers.
8. Remove the belt tensioner and belt.
9. Remove the crank pulley. If you don't have an impact gun, you will
probably have great difficulty due to the engine turning as you try to
loosen the crank pulley bolt.
10. Remove the timing covers.
11. Remove the 12mm bolt holding the oil dipstick tube to the engine
mount bracket.
12. Remove the 4 bolts attaching the mount bracket to the engine and
remove the bracket. (One 12mm and (I think) three 14mm).
13. Rotate the engine so the timing marks are lined up.
14. Remove the tensioner.
15. Remove the belt.
16. Install the new belt around the crank pulley and install an
appropriately sized thingamajiggy in the space under the belt between the
belt and the lip of the front case of the engine. I typically try sockets
until one of them fits in snugly. This will keep the new belt from
slipping out of place as you install it.
17. Pull the belt tight and install on the front camshaft so that the
camshaft timing mark is lined up (it may have moved when you pulled the
old belt off). Use one of the paper clips to hold the belt onto the
pulley.
18. Working from the front camshaft, pull the belt tight around the water
pump pulley and onto the rear camshaft so that the camshaft timing mark is
lined up and clip it in place with the other paper clip. You'll notice
that the rear camshaft won't want to stay in place. Don't worry about
that as long as the timing marks are lined up when the belt is tight.
19. Install the belt around the tensioner pulley.
20. Install the new tensioner. Remove the pin.
21. Turn the rear camshaft backward to remove the slack in the belt.
Check to verify the marks are lined up. Also check the extension of the
tensioner plunger. It should be 6-8 mm.
22. If all is okay, reinstall the crank pulley (don't tighten fully, just
enough to turn the engine) and turn the crank two revolutions and recheck
your marks. If everything is lined up, remove the pulley, and commence
reassembly.
Above all else, be careful. If you think it's even possible everything
may not be lined up properly, don't start the engine. The cost of your
repairs will make you wish you had paid the money to have the timing belt
done.
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lanh08
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01-01-2008 08:07 PM
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