Re: 2000 Elantra Alarm Light and a Draining Battery
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2000 Elantra Alarm Light and a Draining Battery
Advance swore up and down the battery was fine and refused to honor the
warranty. Took it to auto zone and just told them to pull it out and give
me a new one. Drove home fine. Went to get back in the car I open the door
and bam alarm goes off. Apparently now that I have a new fully charged
battery my alarm now has enough power to just go off on it's own non stop
and wake the neighbors. I liked it better when it was silently sucking my
battery dry. I just disconnected the battery to stop it, I'm going to have
to have it towed to the dealer now as I can't even drive it, it wasn't a bad
battery
"Bob" <bobsjunkmail@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:qnm4k.4084$Nr.4068@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
>
> "Owl" <NOSPAMYO@***.net> wrote in message
> news:dRe4k.384$F97.190@newsfe18.lga...
> > That red light has never been on before and the car ran. Now that it's
on
> > the car won't start and it's draining my battery, I do not want it
there,
> > heh. I read online others have had this happen too so I know I'm not
> > crazy.
> > Anyway, I've been told it's in "program mode" which is why it won't
allow
> > me
> > to start the car and why it's draing my battery, it's up and waiting for
> > commands I can't give it. I'm just getting the damn thing disabled as I
> > don't even use it.
> >
>
> Think bad battery. Bad cell will result in both the inability to start the
> car, and the supposed "instant" recharge. All the battery charger is doing
> is measuring voltage, not putting a load on the battery. Also, the fact
that
> your charger says 96% after sitting off charge for a while does not
indicate
> much of anything. Think this through... Your meter in your charger says
the
> battery is fully charged. That probably means that it doesn't draw much
> current from the charger, and it sees in the neighborhood of 14 volts at
the
> terminal while it is trying to charge. Supposed fully charged battery, but
> it won't crank the car. You put a source of current with some oomph behind
> it - the charger in jump start mode - across the battery, and the car
> starts. Battery can't make enough current to start the car.
>
> There is NO WAY that the little LED, or the support electronics for the
> alarm will kill the battery in 10 Minutes. Get it to an Advance or Auto
> Zone, and let them load test the battery. It will probably fail miserably.
> The light is likely on because you've gone real low in bus voltage in the
> car when you've tried starting it, and the alarm module is confused. It
> might fix itself when you completely disconnect the battery in the process
> of replacing the defective one. If it's only six months old, the new one
> will probably be free.
warranty. Took it to auto zone and just told them to pull it out and give
me a new one. Drove home fine. Went to get back in the car I open the door
and bam alarm goes off. Apparently now that I have a new fully charged
battery my alarm now has enough power to just go off on it's own non stop
and wake the neighbors. I liked it better when it was silently sucking my
battery dry. I just disconnected the battery to stop it, I'm going to have
to have it towed to the dealer now as I can't even drive it, it wasn't a bad
battery
"Bob" <bobsjunkmail@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:qnm4k.4084$Nr.4068@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
>
> "Owl" <NOSPAMYO@***.net> wrote in message
> news:dRe4k.384$F97.190@newsfe18.lga...
> > That red light has never been on before and the car ran. Now that it's
on
> > the car won't start and it's draining my battery, I do not want it
there,
> > heh. I read online others have had this happen too so I know I'm not
> > crazy.
> > Anyway, I've been told it's in "program mode" which is why it won't
allow
> > me
> > to start the car and why it's draing my battery, it's up and waiting for
> > commands I can't give it. I'm just getting the damn thing disabled as I
> > don't even use it.
> >
>
> Think bad battery. Bad cell will result in both the inability to start the
> car, and the supposed "instant" recharge. All the battery charger is doing
> is measuring voltage, not putting a load on the battery. Also, the fact
that
> your charger says 96% after sitting off charge for a while does not
indicate
> much of anything. Think this through... Your meter in your charger says
the
> battery is fully charged. That probably means that it doesn't draw much
> current from the charger, and it sees in the neighborhood of 14 volts at
the
> terminal while it is trying to charge. Supposed fully charged battery, but
> it won't crank the car. You put a source of current with some oomph behind
> it - the charger in jump start mode - across the battery, and the car
> starts. Battery can't make enough current to start the car.
>
> There is NO WAY that the little LED, or the support electronics for the
> alarm will kill the battery in 10 Minutes. Get it to an Advance or Auto
> Zone, and let them load test the battery. It will probably fail miserably.
> The light is likely on because you've gone real low in bus voltage in the
> car when you've tried starting it, and the alarm module is confused. It
> might fix itself when you completely disconnect the battery in the process
> of replacing the defective one. If it's only six months old, the new one
> will probably be free.
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: 2000 Elantra Alarm Light and a Draining Battery
You'll want to put the alarm back into valet mode (lamp on steady). Or use
your remote to turn it off. Right now, the alarm *is* preventing you from
starting the car. Until you turn of the alarm or put it in valet mode,
you have no way of knowing whether the battery will start the car.
From my earlier post:
"If a tester shows the battery is charged and in good condition, but your
car requires a jump start, there's either a problem with the cable
connections to the battery or a problem with the tester."
--
Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.hyundai/
More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
your remote to turn it off. Right now, the alarm *is* preventing you from
starting the car. Until you turn of the alarm or put it in valet mode,
you have no way of knowing whether the battery will start the car.
From my earlier post:
"If a tester shows the battery is charged and in good condition, but your
car requires a jump start, there's either a problem with the cable
connections to the battery or a problem with the tester."
--
Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.hyundai/
More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Re: 2000 Elantra Alarm Light and a Draining Battery
Considering I never put it in valet mode nor did I take it out of valet mode
that would have been impossible, the alarm was doing whatever it wanted to
with no help from me. Every time I went out to it something different was
happening. And as stated in the originasl post I don't have the button
unfortunatly, I wish I did, and God did I look for it. The alarm hasn't
been used in over 5 years so it's long gone.
And amazingly enough it let me drive it. This morning when I went out to it
the alarm would only go off when a door was opened. And since I drive with
the door closed I got it to the dealer They just cut it out, took 10
minutes. Long story short, they said the alarm went bad and started
screwing with the rest of the car and now that it's out all is well. Yay
alarm failure!
"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:8ab089212fc79f6fee414308d2d5a1a9@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> You'll want to put the alarm back into valet mode (lamp on steady). Or
use
> your remote to turn it off. Right now, the alarm *is* preventing you from
> starting the car. Until you turn of the alarm or put it in valet mode,
> you have no way of knowing whether the battery will start the car.
>
>
> From my earlier post:
>
> "If a tester shows the battery is charged and in good condition, but your
> car requires a jump start, there's either a problem with the cable
> connections to the battery or a problem with the tester."
>
>
>
> --
> Message posted using
http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.hyundai/
> More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
>
>
that would have been impossible, the alarm was doing whatever it wanted to
with no help from me. Every time I went out to it something different was
happening. And as stated in the originasl post I don't have the button
unfortunatly, I wish I did, and God did I look for it. The alarm hasn't
been used in over 5 years so it's long gone.
And amazingly enough it let me drive it. This morning when I went out to it
the alarm would only go off when a door was opened. And since I drive with
the door closed I got it to the dealer They just cut it out, took 10
minutes. Long story short, they said the alarm went bad and started
screwing with the rest of the car and now that it's out all is well. Yay
alarm failure!
"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:8ab089212fc79f6fee414308d2d5a1a9@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> You'll want to put the alarm back into valet mode (lamp on steady). Or
use
> your remote to turn it off. Right now, the alarm *is* preventing you from
> starting the car. Until you turn of the alarm or put it in valet mode,
> you have no way of knowing whether the battery will start the car.
>
>
> From my earlier post:
>
> "If a tester shows the battery is charged and in good condition, but your
> car requires a jump start, there's either a problem with the cable
> connections to the battery or a problem with the tester."
>
>
>
> --
> Message posted using
http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.hyundai/
> More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
>
>
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