Brian Nystrom wrote:

> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Don Allen wrote:
>>
>>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>>> 25 years of using the product).
>>
>> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
>
> Agreed.
>
>> I run 5K changes
>
> That's a waste, too.

No doubt as I stated below.



>> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty (one of
>> which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
>
> I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
> the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well your
> oil is holding up.

I've only done 10K changes with cars I no longer cared much about (79
Chevette, 96 Plymouth Grand Voyager, and one other car I can't remember
at the moment). I switched the Chevette to 10K intervals at 50,000
miles and it ran fine to 115,000 when I sold it. The new owner wrecked
it at 145,000 miles, but I don't know what his maintenance schedule was.
And this was a little 4 banger than ran 3,000 RPM at 55 MPH!!

I agree that oil analysis is the best way to know for sure, but the cost
and hassle isn't justified with most cars. It is cheaper to just change
the oil a little sooner. The main reason as that most oil analysis
places say you need to drain the oil in order to get a good sample (you
take the sample typically after about half of the oil has drained).
This is a pain and risks contaminating the oil as you drain it and then
refill the engine with it.

Some folks pull a sample through the dipstick tube, but this generally
isn't a good way to go.


>>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>>> at 1,000 miles.
>>
>> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
>> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using
>> dino oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal 5,000
>> schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is easy to
>> remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal schedule
>> for most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it should avoid
>> any warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll consider 10,000
>> mile changes. I started this with my last minivan after 150,000 miles
>> of 5K changes and it didn't bother it at all.
>
> How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your next
> oil change is due?

More difficult than looking at the odometer and seeing that a multiple
of 5,000 is coming up.


>>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>>
>> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
>> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
>> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
>> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a
>> safe compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
>
> Hyundai suggests 7500.

Only under very specific and nearly ideal conditions. Probably 80% of
the cars driven in the USA fall under the "severe" description of most
automakers. And then you drop back to 3,000 mile intervals.


>> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals
>> are VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
>
> Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?

Because I don't want to deal with oil analysis and I don't want a
warranty hassle.


>> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with
>> Hyundai, I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
>
> It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
> recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
> with a synthetic.

It is if your driving falls into the "severe" service regime as
described in the owner's manual. My driving falls in between the two
descriptions so I interpolate also my oil change interval.


>> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
>> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if I
>> did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
>
> That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him know
> in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the warranty and
> that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on customers all
> the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash cows. If they
> do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer oriented and
> don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when the dealer is
> falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to screw customers.

That is what I hope, but I haven't yet had occasion to find out.


>> I've done my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker
>> hassle me on a warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of
>> imports before. Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for doing
>> my own maintenance.
>
> All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
> Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
> not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my own
> work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I bought
> my Elantra.

I keep my own log and receipts.


Matt

 

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Matt Whiting wrote:
>>
>>> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>>>
>>>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram
>>>> drain valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush
>>>> washers, possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the
>>>> drain plug and dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan.
>>>> Some people prefer the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one
>>>> does the job. After using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to
>>>> using a stock drain plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't
>>>> someone think of that before???" items.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
>>> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
>>> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it
>>> is good enough for me!
>>
>>
>>
>> All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're
>> readily available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain
>> adapter and short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best
>> if you leave the hose off and just run the oil into a drain
>> pan/tub/bucket. The hose is more hassle than it's worth.
>
>
> We had to use a hose with our airplane as taking off the lower cowling
> was a lot of work. It wasn't bad once you got the hang of it. The
> trouble is that the way the drain was activated was by pushing it in. If
> the hose was cold, the force required to get the hose over the nipple
> was greater than the force required to open the drain. You can guess
> the outcome. That only happened to me once and then I learned to stick
> the hose end into my pocket to warm it up before attaching it to the drain.
>
> What are the pros and cons of the Fram vs. the Fumoto?
>
> On my other vehicles, the drain plug is pretty exposed so I was always
> concerned about a quickdrain valve getting knocked off as most I've seen
> extend a fair bit away from the oil pan. However, it appears that the
> Hyundai drain plug may be better protected, but I haven't actually
> looked under the car yet to confirm that.

The Fram valve is a three piece system:

- The valve screws into the oil pan.
- The drain adapter screws onto the valve and opens it in the process.
It has a hose barb on it that functions well as to direct the oil flow,
even without a hose on it. It is only installed when you want to drain
the oil.
- The last piece is an O-ring sealed cover that screws over the drain
valve to protect it from dirt, moisture and thread damage while driving.
The valve is very well protected and only protrudes ~3/4" toward the
rear of the car.

The only downside I see to this system is that you need to make sure
that you don't lose the drain adapter. I keep my oil changing tools in a
separate box anyway, so it's not a problem.

The Fumoto is a one-piece system. You screw the valve onto the oil pan
and it has a lever on it that you use to open it. That makes it much
more exposed to damage, but I can't say that I've heard of problems in
that regard. The Fumoto is more expensive than the Fram and you'll
probably have to mail order it, as I haven't seen them for sale in any
stores.

 

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Matt Whiting wrote:
>>
>>> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>>>
>>>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram
>>>> drain valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush
>>>> washers, possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the
>>>> drain plug and dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan.
>>>> Some people prefer the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one
>>>> does the job. After using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to
>>>> using a stock drain plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't
>>>> someone think of that before???" items.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
>>> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
>>> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it
>>> is good enough for me!
>>
>>
>>
>> All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're
>> readily available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain
>> adapter and short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best
>> if you leave the hose off and just run the oil into a drain
>> pan/tub/bucket. The hose is more hassle than it's worth.
>
>
> We had to use a hose with our airplane as taking off the lower cowling
> was a lot of work. It wasn't bad once you got the hang of it. The
> trouble is that the way the drain was activated was by pushing it in. If
> the hose was cold, the force required to get the hose over the nipple
> was greater than the force required to open the drain. You can guess
> the outcome. That only happened to me once and then I learned to stick
> the hose end into my pocket to warm it up before attaching it to the drain.
>
> What are the pros and cons of the Fram vs. the Fumoto?
>
> On my other vehicles, the drain plug is pretty exposed so I was always
> concerned about a quickdrain valve getting knocked off as most I've seen
> extend a fair bit away from the oil pan. However, it appears that the
> Hyundai drain plug may be better protected, but I haven't actually
> looked under the car yet to confirm that.

The Fram valve is a three piece system:

- The valve screws into the oil pan.
- The drain adapter screws onto the valve and opens it in the process.
It has a hose barb on it that functions well as to direct the oil flow,
even without a hose on it. It is only installed when you want to drain
the oil.
- The last piece is an O-ring sealed cover that screws over the drain
valve to protect it from dirt, moisture and thread damage while driving.
The valve is very well protected and only protrudes ~3/4" toward the
rear of the car.

The only downside I see to this system is that you need to make sure
that you don't lose the drain adapter. I keep my oil changing tools in a
separate box anyway, so it's not a problem.

The Fumoto is a one-piece system. You screw the valve onto the oil pan
and it has a lever on it that you use to open it. That makes it much
more exposed to damage, but I can't say that I've heard of problems in
that regard. The Fumoto is more expensive than the Fram and you'll
probably have to mail order it, as I haven't seen them for sale in any
stores.

 

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Matt Whiting wrote:
>>
>>> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>>>
>>>> I replaced the drain plug in my Elantra GT with one of the Fram
>>>> drain valves. That eliminates any hassles with replacing crush
>>>> washers, possible cross-threading or over/under torquing of the
>>>> drain plug and dropping slippery drain plugs into your drain pan.
>>>> Some people prefer the more expensive Fumoto valve, but either one
>>>> does the job. After using one of these valve, I wouldn't go back to
>>>> using a stock drain plug again. It's one of those "Why didn't
>>>> someone think of that before???" items.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Where did you buy the Fram valve at? My airplane had a quick-drain
>>> valve, but I've never bothered to put one on a car. Makes a lot of
>>> sense though and if it is good enought for Continental and Cessna, it
>>> is good enough for me!
>>
>>
>>
>> All the local auto parts stores have them, so I imagine they're
>> readily available in your area. The Fram valve comes with a drain
>> adapter and short chunk of drain hose. I've found that it works best
>> if you leave the hose off and just run the oil into a drain
>> pan/tub/bucket. The hose is more hassle than it's worth.
>
>
> We had to use a hose with our airplane as taking off the lower cowling
> was a lot of work. It wasn't bad once you got the hang of it. The
> trouble is that the way the drain was activated was by pushing it in. If
> the hose was cold, the force required to get the hose over the nipple
> was greater than the force required to open the drain. You can guess
> the outcome. That only happened to me once and then I learned to stick
> the hose end into my pocket to warm it up before attaching it to the drain.
>
> What are the pros and cons of the Fram vs. the Fumoto?
>
> On my other vehicles, the drain plug is pretty exposed so I was always
> concerned about a quickdrain valve getting knocked off as most I've seen
> extend a fair bit away from the oil pan. However, it appears that the
> Hyundai drain plug may be better protected, but I haven't actually
> looked under the car yet to confirm that.

The Fram valve is a three piece system:

- The valve screws into the oil pan.
- The drain adapter screws onto the valve and opens it in the process.
It has a hose barb on it that functions well as to direct the oil flow,
even without a hose on it. It is only installed when you want to drain
the oil.
- The last piece is an O-ring sealed cover that screws over the drain
valve to protect it from dirt, moisture and thread damage while driving.
The valve is very well protected and only protrudes ~3/4" toward the
rear of the car.

The only downside I see to this system is that you need to make sure
that you don't lose the drain adapter. I keep my oil changing tools in a
separate box anyway, so it's not a problem.

The Fumoto is a one-piece system. You screw the valve onto the oil pan
and it has a lever on it that you use to open it. That makes it much
more exposed to damage, but I can't say that I've heard of problems in
that regard. The Fumoto is more expensive than the Fram and you'll
probably have to mail order it, as I haven't seen them for sale in any
stores.

 

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Matt Whiting wrote:
>>
>>> Don Allen wrote:
>>>
>>>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>>>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>>>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>>>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>>>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>>>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>>>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>>>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>>>> 25 years of using the product).
>>>
>>>
>>> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
>>
>>
>> Agreed.
>>
>>> I run 5K changes
>>
>>
>> That's a waste, too.
>
>
> No doubt as I stated below.
>
>>> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty (one of
>>> which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
>>
>> I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
>> the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well
>> your oil is holding up.
>
> I've only done 10K changes with cars I no longer cared much about (79
> Chevette, 96 Plymouth Grand Voyager, and one other car I can't remember
> at the moment). I switched the Chevette to 10K intervals at 50,000
> miles and it ran fine to 115,000 when I sold it. The new owner wrecked
> it at 145,000 miles, but I don't know what his maintenance schedule was.
> And this was a little 4 banger than ran 3,000 RPM at 55 MPH!!
>
> I agree that oil analysis is the best way to know for sure, but the cost
> and hassle isn't justified with most cars. It is cheaper to just change
> the oil a little sooner. The main reason as that most oil analysis
> places say you need to drain the oil in order to get a good sample (you
> take the sample typically after about half of the oil has drained). This
> is a pain and risks contaminating the oil as you drain it and then
> refill the engine with it.
>
> Some folks pull a sample through the dipstick tube, but this generally
> isn't a good way to go.
>
I haven't bothered with oil analysis either, since as you say, it's and
expensive hassle that's simply not necessary if you stick to the
recommended oil change schedule. I DO care about my Elantra, which still
has >70K miles on the warranty, but I know what you mean about older
cars. I've been doing 7K oil changes ever since I read independent tests
a decade or so ago indicating that any oil will last 7K in any car
that's driven normally. I've probably let some go 8K or so inadvertently
and have never had oil related problems with an engine.
>
>>>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>>>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>>>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>>>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>>>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>>>> at 1,000 miles.
>>>
>>>
>>> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
>>> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using
>>> dino oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal
>>> 5,000 schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is
>>> easy to remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal
>>> schedule for most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it
>>> should avoid any warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll
>>> consider 10,000 mile changes. I started this with my last minivan
>>> after 150,000 miles of 5K changes and it didn't bother it at all.
>>
>>
>> How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your
>> next oil change is due?
>
> More difficult than looking at the odometer and seeing that a multiple
> of 5,000 is coming up.

Well, I guess I must be better at math than you, as I don't find
calculating 7500 mile intervals to be a challenge. ;-)

>>>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>>>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>>>
>>> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
>>> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
>>> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
>>> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a
>>> safe compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
>>
>> Hyundai suggests 7500.
>
> Only under very specific and nearly ideal conditions. Probably 80% of
> the cars driven in the USA fall under the "severe" description of most
> automakers. And then you drop back to 3,000 mile intervals.

That's just a bunch of CYA nonesense on their part and you can pretty
much ignore it. Unless you drive your vehicle hard or under unsually
difficult conditions, there's no need to follow the severe use schedule.

>>> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals
>>> are VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
>>
>> Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?
>
> Because I don't want to deal with oil analysis and I don't want a
> warranty hassle.

Fine, but changing at 5K is still more frequently than necesary.

>>> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with
>>> Hyundai, I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
>>
>> It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
>> recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
>> with a synthetic.
>
> It is if your driving falls into the "severe" service regime as
> described in the owner's manual. My driving falls in between the two
> descriptions so I interpolate also my oil change interval.

As I've said above, the "severe service" is a bunch of nonsense that can
be ignored if you drive like most people do. Virtually everyone falls
into one or the other of the categories they list. I can tell you from
experience that if you follow Hyundai's standard schedule, that's all
they care about unless there is obvious evidence that your vehicle has
been abused. No one is ever going to deny a warranty claim because you
drive on dirt roads occasionally, drive in stop and go traffic at times
or any of the other items listed in the severe service list of sins.

>>> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
>>> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if
>>> I did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
>>
>> That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him
>> know in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the
>> warranty and that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on
>> customers all the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash
>> cows. If they do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer
>> oriented and don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when
>> the dealer is falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to
>> screw customers.
>
> That is what I hope, but I haven't yet had occasion to find out.

Hopefully, none of us ever will! I have dealt with Hyundai on a major
transmission issue on a previous vehicle and I found them to be
surprisingly accommodating.

>>> I've done my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker
>>> hassle me on a warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of
>>> imports before. Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for
>>> doing my own maintenance.
>>
>> All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
>> Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
>> not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my
>> own work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I
>> bought my Elantra.
>
> I keep my own log and receipts.

It may be a good idea to fill out their log as a formality, since that's
what they'll ask to see if you ever do make a claim. Either way, you're
all set. If you haven't already, you might want to mention that to the
jerk of a dealer you have on your next visit. It may save you a few
unwelcome comments from him in the future.

 

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Matt Whiting wrote:
>>
>>> Don Allen wrote:
>>>
>>>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>>>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>>>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>>>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>>>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>>>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>>>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>>>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>>>> 25 years of using the product).
>>>
>>>
>>> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
>>
>>
>> Agreed.
>>
>>> I run 5K changes
>>
>>
>> That's a waste, too.
>
>
> No doubt as I stated below.
>
>>> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty (one of
>>> which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
>>
>> I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
>> the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well
>> your oil is holding up.
>
> I've only done 10K changes with cars I no longer cared much about (79
> Chevette, 96 Plymouth Grand Voyager, and one other car I can't remember
> at the moment). I switched the Chevette to 10K intervals at 50,000
> miles and it ran fine to 115,000 when I sold it. The new owner wrecked
> it at 145,000 miles, but I don't know what his maintenance schedule was.
> And this was a little 4 banger than ran 3,000 RPM at 55 MPH!!
>
> I agree that oil analysis is the best way to know for sure, but the cost
> and hassle isn't justified with most cars. It is cheaper to just change
> the oil a little sooner. The main reason as that most oil analysis
> places say you need to drain the oil in order to get a good sample (you
> take the sample typically after about half of the oil has drained). This
> is a pain and risks contaminating the oil as you drain it and then
> refill the engine with it.
>
> Some folks pull a sample through the dipstick tube, but this generally
> isn't a good way to go.
>
I haven't bothered with oil analysis either, since as you say, it's and
expensive hassle that's simply not necessary if you stick to the
recommended oil change schedule. I DO care about my Elantra, which still
has >70K miles on the warranty, but I know what you mean about older
cars. I've been doing 7K oil changes ever since I read independent tests
a decade or so ago indicating that any oil will last 7K in any car
that's driven normally. I've probably let some go 8K or so inadvertently
and have never had oil related problems with an engine.
>
>>>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>>>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>>>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>>>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>>>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>>>> at 1,000 miles.
>>>
>>>
>>> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
>>> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using
>>> dino oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal
>>> 5,000 schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is
>>> easy to remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal
>>> schedule for most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it
>>> should avoid any warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll
>>> consider 10,000 mile changes. I started this with my last minivan
>>> after 150,000 miles of 5K changes and it didn't bother it at all.
>>
>>
>> How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your
>> next oil change is due?
>
> More difficult than looking at the odometer and seeing that a multiple
> of 5,000 is coming up.

Well, I guess I must be better at math than you, as I don't find
calculating 7500 mile intervals to be a challenge. ;-)

>>>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>>>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>>>
>>> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
>>> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
>>> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
>>> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a
>>> safe compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
>>
>> Hyundai suggests 7500.
>
> Only under very specific and nearly ideal conditions. Probably 80% of
> the cars driven in the USA fall under the "severe" description of most
> automakers. And then you drop back to 3,000 mile intervals.

That's just a bunch of CYA nonesense on their part and you can pretty
much ignore it. Unless you drive your vehicle hard or under unsually
difficult conditions, there's no need to follow the severe use schedule.

>>> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals
>>> are VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
>>
>> Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?
>
> Because I don't want to deal with oil analysis and I don't want a
> warranty hassle.

Fine, but changing at 5K is still more frequently than necesary.

>>> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with
>>> Hyundai, I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
>>
>> It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
>> recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
>> with a synthetic.
>
> It is if your driving falls into the "severe" service regime as
> described in the owner's manual. My driving falls in between the two
> descriptions so I interpolate also my oil change interval.

As I've said above, the "severe service" is a bunch of nonsense that can
be ignored if you drive like most people do. Virtually everyone falls
into one or the other of the categories they list. I can tell you from
experience that if you follow Hyundai's standard schedule, that's all
they care about unless there is obvious evidence that your vehicle has
been abused. No one is ever going to deny a warranty claim because you
drive on dirt roads occasionally, drive in stop and go traffic at times
or any of the other items listed in the severe service list of sins.

>>> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
>>> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if
>>> I did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
>>
>> That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him
>> know in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the
>> warranty and that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on
>> customers all the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash
>> cows. If they do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer
>> oriented and don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when
>> the dealer is falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to
>> screw customers.
>
> That is what I hope, but I haven't yet had occasion to find out.

Hopefully, none of us ever will! I have dealt with Hyundai on a major
transmission issue on a previous vehicle and I found them to be
surprisingly accommodating.

>>> I've done my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker
>>> hassle me on a warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of
>>> imports before. Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for
>>> doing my own maintenance.
>>
>> All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
>> Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
>> not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my
>> own work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I
>> bought my Elantra.
>
> I keep my own log and receipts.

It may be a good idea to fill out their log as a formality, since that's
what they'll ask to see if you ever do make a claim. Either way, you're
all set. If you haven't already, you might want to mention that to the
jerk of a dealer you have on your next visit. It may save you a few
unwelcome comments from him in the future.

 

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Matt Whiting wrote:
>>
>>> Don Allen wrote:
>>>
>>>> I bought a new 2006 Elantra in December. As a D-I-Yer, and former
>>>> mechanic, I've always performed the majority of the oil changes on my
>>>> cars. I always change oil and filter at 3K or 3 month intervals using
>>>> Mobil 1 synthetic. I fully understand Hyundai's requirement of keeping
>>>> a maintenance log, either in paper form or at hyundai.com's online
>>>> service log to show proof of preventive maintenance to maintain the
>>>> warranty. (Note: Using Mobil 1, and sticking to the 3K/3Mo. change
>>>> intervals, I've never experienced an engine mechanical failure in over
>>>> 25 years of using the product).
>>>
>>>
>>> 3K/3 month changes with Mobil 1 is a waste of a lot of good oil.
>>
>>
>> Agreed.
>>
>>> I run 5K changes
>>
>>
>> That's a waste, too.
>
>
> No doubt as I stated below.
>
>>> and have run 10K on several vehicles once out of warranty (one of
>>> which had 178,000 when totaled) with no ill affects.
>>
>> I've never run 10K changes and would hesitate to do so without having
>> the oil analyzed first. Oil analysis will tell you exactly how well
>> your oil is holding up.
>
> I've only done 10K changes with cars I no longer cared much about (79
> Chevette, 96 Plymouth Grand Voyager, and one other car I can't remember
> at the moment). I switched the Chevette to 10K intervals at 50,000
> miles and it ran fine to 115,000 when I sold it. The new owner wrecked
> it at 145,000 miles, but I don't know what his maintenance schedule was.
> And this was a little 4 banger than ran 3,000 RPM at 55 MPH!!
>
> I agree that oil analysis is the best way to know for sure, but the cost
> and hassle isn't justified with most cars. It is cheaper to just change
> the oil a little sooner. The main reason as that most oil analysis
> places say you need to drain the oil in order to get a good sample (you
> take the sample typically after about half of the oil has drained). This
> is a pain and risks contaminating the oil as you drain it and then
> refill the engine with it.
>
> Some folks pull a sample through the dipstick tube, but this generally
> isn't a good way to go.
>
I haven't bothered with oil analysis either, since as you say, it's and
expensive hassle that's simply not necessary if you stick to the
recommended oil change schedule. I DO care about my Elantra, which still
has >70K miles on the warranty, but I know what you mean about older
cars. I've been doing 7K oil changes ever since I read independent tests
a decade or so ago indicating that any oil will last 7K in any car
that's driven normally. I've probably let some go 8K or so inadvertently
and have never had oil related problems with an engine.
>
>>>> Years ago, it was generally recommended to perform the initial oil
>>>> change at 1,000 miles. At that time, many cars used a "break in" oil,
>>>> but I'm not sure this is the case anymore. In fact, most cars had a
>>>> free scheduled 1,000 mile inspection, which included an oil change.
>>>> Nevertheless, it still may make good sense to initially change the oil
>>>> at 1,000 miles.
>>>
>>>
>>> I think that is largely a thing of the past, however, due to my
>>> conservative nature, I plan to change my Sonata at 2500 miles using
>>> dino oil and then change to Mobil 1 at 5,000 and start my normal
>>> 5,000 schedule. Why 5,000 you ask? The main reason is that it is
>>> easy to remember multiples of 5,000 and it is less than the normal
>>> schedule for most cars and not far from the severe schedule so it
>>> should avoid any warranty disputes. Once out of warranty, I'll
>>> consider 10,000 mile changes. I started this with my last minivan
>>> after 150,000 miles of 5K changes and it didn't bother it at all.
>>
>>
>> How difficult is it to look in the Maintenance Log to see when your
>> next oil change is due?
>
> More difficult than looking at the odometer and seeing that a multiple
> of 5,000 is coming up.

Well, I guess I must be better at math than you, as I don't find
calculating 7500 mile intervals to be a challenge. ;-)

>>>> Any thoughts on this, pro or con, or should I simply adhere to
>>>> Hyundai's "severe service" drain intervals?
>>>
>>> Only you can assess your driving conditions vs. the manual's
>>> recommendations. My driving is 17 or so miles each way to work every
>>> day on mostly level highway. I rarely idle for any length of time,
>>> don't tow and don't drive much on dirt roads. I figure 5,000 is a
>>> safe compromise between 7500 and 3750 or whatever Hyundai suggests.
>>
>> Hyundai suggests 7500.
>
> Only under very specific and nearly ideal conditions. Probably 80% of
> the cars driven in the USA fall under the "severe" description of most
> automakers. And then you drop back to 3,000 mile intervals.

That's just a bunch of CYA nonesense on their part and you can pretty
much ignore it. Unless you drive your vehicle hard or under unsually
difficult conditions, there's no need to follow the severe use schedule.

>>> Personally, I think current recommendations for oil change intervals
>>> are VERY conservative given modern engines, oils and oil filters.
>>
>> Then why are you changing it more frequently than you have to?
>
> Because I don't want to deal with oil analysis and I don't want a
> warranty hassle.

Fine, but changing at 5K is still more frequently than necesary.

>>> However, during the warranty period, which is a long time with
>>> Hyundai, I won't experiment with the maintenance schedule.
>>
>> It's not an experiment to change it every 7500 miles. That's what they
>> recommend with dino oil. If it's safe with that, it's definitely safe
>> with a synthetic.
>
> It is if your driving falls into the "severe" service regime as
> described in the owner's manual. My driving falls in between the two
> descriptions so I interpolate also my oil change interval.

As I've said above, the "severe service" is a bunch of nonsense that can
be ignored if you drive like most people do. Virtually everyone falls
into one or the other of the categories they list. I can tell you from
experience that if you follow Hyundai's standard schedule, that's all
they care about unless there is obvious evidence that your vehicle has
been abused. No one is ever going to deny a warranty claim because you
drive on dirt roads occasionally, drive in stop and go traffic at times
or any of the other items listed in the severe service list of sins.

>>> Is Hyundai tough to deal with regarding warranty claims? The dealer
>>> really pushed me to have all service done by them and hinted that if
>>> I did my own maintenance it might make warranty claims tricky.
>>
>> That's absolute BS! Next time the dealer even hints at it, let him
>> know in no uncertain terms that you know your rights under the
>> warranty and that he WILL honor it, period. Dealers pull this crap on
>> customers all the time, since oil changes and similar service are cash
>> cows. If they do it again, complain to Hyundai. They're very customer
>> oriented and don't take kindly to dishonest dealers, particularly when
>> the dealer is falsely blaming Hyundai and using that as leverage to
>> screw customers.
>
> That is what I hope, but I haven't yet had occasion to find out.

Hopefully, none of us ever will! I have dealt with Hyundai on a major
transmission issue on a previous vehicle and I found them to be
surprisingly accommodating.

>>> I've done my own maintenance for 30 years and never had a car maker
>>> hassle me on a warranty claim, then again I've only owned a couple of
>>> imports before. Chevy and Chrysler have never given me grief for
>>> doing my own maintenance.
>>
>> All you're required to do is to keep track of your maintenance in the
>> Maintenance Log. If you want to keep receipts, it won't hurt, but it's
>> not required. Fortunately, I have an honest dealer who knows I do my
>> own work and even explained the requirements to me in detail when I
>> bought my Elantra.
>
> I keep my own log and receipts.

It may be a good idea to fill out their log as a formality, since that's
what they'll ask to see if you ever do make a claim. Either way, you're
all set. If you haven't already, you might want to mention that to the
jerk of a dealer you have on your next visit. It may save you a few
unwelcome comments from him in the future.

 

Brian Nystrom wrote:

> Well, I guess I must be better at math than you, as I don't find
> calculating 7500 mile intervals to be a challenge. ;-)

Not a math issue, but a memory issue. If you tell me that my odometer
has 67,000 miles on it, I can tell you within a second that I'm due for
a change in 3,000 miles. You can't do that with 7,500 mile intervals.
Since they alternate 2,500 and 7,500 multiples in between the 15,000
mile multiples, you have to go back to the nearest 15,000 mile multiple
(60,000 in this case) and then add 7,500 miles to get 67,500 and then
subtract to get that you are 500 miles from you next change. It is just
a lot easier to use 5,000 or 10,000. :-)


> That's just a bunch of CYA nonesense on their part and you can pretty
> much ignore it. Unless you drive your vehicle hard or under unsually
> difficult conditions, there's no need to follow the severe use schedule.

That may well be, but the reality is that they could use this to deny a
claim if they desired and had significant evidence that you didn't drive
according to the "normal" regimen.


> Fine, but changing at 5K is still more frequently than necesary.

So is changing at 7,500. :-) It is just a matter of where you choose
to draw the line. There folks that do oil analysis that run routinely
past 10,000 miles on dino oil and much longer on synthetic.


> As I've said above, the "severe service" is a bunch of nonsense that can
> be ignored if you drive like most people do. Virtually everyone falls
> into one or the other of the categories they list. I can tell you from
> experience that if you follow Hyundai's standard schedule, that's all
> they care about unless there is obvious evidence that your vehicle has
> been abused. No one is ever going to deny a warranty claim because you
> drive on dirt roads occasionally, drive in stop and go traffic at times
> or any of the other items listed in the severe service list of sins.

That is your opinion, but not the opinion of virtually every car maker
in the world.


Matt

 

Brian Nystrom wrote:

> Well, I guess I must be better at math than you, as I don't find
> calculating 7500 mile intervals to be a challenge. ;-)

Not a math issue, but a memory issue. If you tell me that my odometer
has 67,000 miles on it, I can tell you within a second that I'm due for
a change in 3,000 miles. You can't do that with 7,500 mile intervals.
Since they alternate 2,500 and 7,500 multiples in between the 15,000
mile multiples, you have to go back to the nearest 15,000 mile multiple
(60,000 in this case) and then add 7,500 miles to get 67,500 and then
subtract to get that you are 500 miles from you next change. It is just
a lot easier to use 5,000 or 10,000. :-)


> That's just a bunch of CYA nonesense on their part and you can pretty
> much ignore it. Unless you drive your vehicle hard or under unsually
> difficult conditions, there's no need to follow the severe use schedule.

That may well be, but the reality is that they could use this to deny a
claim if they desired and had significant evidence that you didn't drive
according to the "normal" regimen.


> Fine, but changing at 5K is still more frequently than necesary.

So is changing at 7,500. :-) It is just a matter of where you choose
to draw the line. There folks that do oil analysis that run routinely
past 10,000 miles on dino oil and much longer on synthetic.


> As I've said above, the "severe service" is a bunch of nonsense that can
> be ignored if you drive like most people do. Virtually everyone falls
> into one or the other of the categories they list. I can tell you from
> experience that if you follow Hyundai's standard schedule, that's all
> they care about unless there is obvious evidence that your vehicle has
> been abused. No one is ever going to deny a warranty claim because you
> drive on dirt roads occasionally, drive in stop and go traffic at times
> or any of the other items listed in the severe service list of sins.

That is your opinion, but not the opinion of virtually every car maker
in the world.


Matt

 

Brian Nystrom wrote:

> Well, I guess I must be better at math than you, as I don't find
> calculating 7500 mile intervals to be a challenge. ;-)

Not a math issue, but a memory issue. If you tell me that my odometer
has 67,000 miles on it, I can tell you within a second that I'm due for
a change in 3,000 miles. You can't do that with 7,500 mile intervals.
Since they alternate 2,500 and 7,500 multiples in between the 15,000
mile multiples, you have to go back to the nearest 15,000 mile multiple
(60,000 in this case) and then add 7,500 miles to get 67,500 and then
subtract to get that you are 500 miles from you next change. It is just
a lot easier to use 5,000 or 10,000. :-)


> That's just a bunch of CYA nonesense on their part and you can pretty
> much ignore it. Unless you drive your vehicle hard or under unsually
> difficult conditions, there's no need to follow the severe use schedule.

That may well be, but the reality is that they could use this to deny a
claim if they desired and had significant evidence that you didn't drive
according to the "normal" regimen.


> Fine, but changing at 5K is still more frequently than necesary.

So is changing at 7,500. :-) It is just a matter of where you choose
to draw the line. There folks that do oil analysis that run routinely
past 10,000 miles on dino oil and much longer on synthetic.


> As I've said above, the "severe service" is a bunch of nonsense that can
> be ignored if you drive like most people do. Virtually everyone falls
> into one or the other of the categories they list. I can tell you from
> experience that if you follow Hyundai's standard schedule, that's all
> they care about unless there is obvious evidence that your vehicle has
> been abused. No one is ever going to deny a warranty claim because you
> drive on dirt roads occasionally, drive in stop and go traffic at times
> or any of the other items listed in the severe service list of sins.

That is your opinion, but not the opinion of virtually every car maker
in the world.


Matt

 

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Well, I guess I must be better at math than you, as I don't find
>> calculating 7500 mile intervals to be a challenge. ;-)
>
> Not a math issue, but a memory issue. If you tell me that my odometer
> has 67,000 miles on it, I can tell you within a second that I'm due for
> a change in 3,000 miles. You can't do that with 7,500 mile intervals.
> Since they alternate 2,500 and 7,500 multiples in between the 15,000
> mile multiples, you have to go back to the nearest 15,000 mile multiple
> (60,000 in this case) and then add 7,500 miles to get 67,500 and then
> subtract to get that you are 500 miles from you next change. It is just
> a lot easier to use 5,000 or 10,000. :-)

Funny, I have no trouble remembering what my next change interval is. If
I ever do have a question, I can always look in the maintenance log.

>> That's just a bunch of CYA nonesense on their part and you can pretty
>> much ignore it. Unless you drive your vehicle hard or under unsually
>> difficult conditions, there's no need to follow the severe use schedule.
>
> That may well be, but the reality is that they could use this to deny a
> claim if they desired and had significant evidence that you didn't drive
> according to the "normal" regimen.

And exactly HOW are they going to prove any of that? The fact is that
Hyundai has NO IDEA how you drive your car. For that matter, the
Maintenance Log is strictly an "honor system" document, yet that's all
the documentation that's required to maintain the warranty.

>> Fine, but changing at 5K is still more frequently than necesary.

> So is changing at 7,500. :-) It is just a matter of where you choose
> to draw the line. There folks that do oil analysis that run routinely
> past 10,000 miles on dino oil and much longer on synthetic.

The 7500 mile interval is require under the warranty. If you don't care
about the warranty, you can change it at whatever interval you like.

>> As I've said above, the "severe service" is a bunch of nonsense that
>> can be ignored if you drive like most people do. Virtually everyone
>> falls into one or the other of the categories they list. I can tell
>> you from experience that if you follow Hyundai's standard schedule,
>> that's all they care about unless there is obvious evidence that your
>> vehicle has been abused. No one is ever going to deny a warranty claim
>> because you drive on dirt roads occasionally, drive in stop and go
>> traffic at times or any of the other items listed in the severe
>> service list of sins.

> That is your opinion, but not the opinion of virtually every car maker
> in the world.

Please show me the survey of "virtually every car maker in the world"
that shows that they ever actually deny claims based on the their
"severe service" requirements. The reality is that it simply doesn't
happen except in the more egregious, obvious cases of abuse. As I said
above, there is no way for a company to know how you drive your car
unless there are obvious signs of abuse. Additionally, under warranty
law, it's up to the company to prove that you violated the warranty
provisions, not up to you to prove that you didn't.

 

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Well, I guess I must be better at math than you, as I don't find
>> calculating 7500 mile intervals to be a challenge. ;-)
>
> Not a math issue, but a memory issue. If you tell me that my odometer
> has 67,000 miles on it, I can tell you within a second that I'm due for
> a change in 3,000 miles. You can't do that with 7,500 mile intervals.
> Since they alternate 2,500 and 7,500 multiples in between the 15,000
> mile multiples, you have to go back to the nearest 15,000 mile multiple
> (60,000 in this case) and then add 7,500 miles to get 67,500 and then
> subtract to get that you are 500 miles from you next change. It is just
> a lot easier to use 5,000 or 10,000. :-)

Funny, I have no trouble remembering what my next change interval is. If
I ever do have a question, I can always look in the maintenance log.

>> That's just a bunch of CYA nonesense on their part and you can pretty
>> much ignore it. Unless you drive your vehicle hard or under unsually
>> difficult conditions, there's no need to follow the severe use schedule.
>
> That may well be, but the reality is that they could use this to deny a
> claim if they desired and had significant evidence that you didn't drive
> according to the "normal" regimen.

And exactly HOW are they going to prove any of that? The fact is that
Hyundai has NO IDEA how you drive your car. For that matter, the
Maintenance Log is strictly an "honor system" document, yet that's all
the documentation that's required to maintain the warranty.

>> Fine, but changing at 5K is still more frequently than necesary.

> So is changing at 7,500. :-) It is just a matter of where you choose
> to draw the line. There folks that do oil analysis that run routinely
> past 10,000 miles on dino oil and much longer on synthetic.

The 7500 mile interval is require under the warranty. If you don't care
about the warranty, you can change it at whatever interval you like.

>> As I've said above, the "severe service" is a bunch of nonsense that
>> can be ignored if you drive like most people do. Virtually everyone
>> falls into one or the other of the categories they list. I can tell
>> you from experience that if you follow Hyundai's standard schedule,
>> that's all they care about unless there is obvious evidence that your
>> vehicle has been abused. No one is ever going to deny a warranty claim
>> because you drive on dirt roads occasionally, drive in stop and go
>> traffic at times or any of the other items listed in the severe
>> service list of sins.

> That is your opinion, but not the opinion of virtually every car maker
> in the world.

Please show me the survey of "virtually every car maker in the world"
that shows that they ever actually deny claims based on the their
"severe service" requirements. The reality is that it simply doesn't
happen except in the more egregious, obvious cases of abuse. As I said
above, there is no way for a company to know how you drive your car
unless there are obvious signs of abuse. Additionally, under warranty
law, it's up to the company to prove that you violated the warranty
provisions, not up to you to prove that you didn't.

 

Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Well, I guess I must be better at math than you, as I don't find
>> calculating 7500 mile intervals to be a challenge. ;-)
>
> Not a math issue, but a memory issue. If you tell me that my odometer
> has 67,000 miles on it, I can tell you within a second that I'm due for
> a change in 3,000 miles. You can't do that with 7,500 mile intervals.
> Since they alternate 2,500 and 7,500 multiples in between the 15,000
> mile multiples, you have to go back to the nearest 15,000 mile multiple
> (60,000 in this case) and then add 7,500 miles to get 67,500 and then
> subtract to get that you are 500 miles from you next change. It is just
> a lot easier to use 5,000 or 10,000. :-)

Funny, I have no trouble remembering what my next change interval is. If
I ever do have a question, I can always look in the maintenance log.

>> That's just a bunch of CYA nonesense on their part and you can pretty
>> much ignore it. Unless you drive your vehicle hard or under unsually
>> difficult conditions, there's no need to follow the severe use schedule.
>
> That may well be, but the reality is that they could use this to deny a
> claim if they desired and had significant evidence that you didn't drive
> according to the "normal" regimen.

And exactly HOW are they going to prove any of that? The fact is that
Hyundai has NO IDEA how you drive your car. For that matter, the
Maintenance Log is strictly an "honor system" document, yet that's all
the documentation that's required to maintain the warranty.

>> Fine, but changing at 5K is still more frequently than necesary.

> So is changing at 7,500. :-) It is just a matter of where you choose
> to draw the line. There folks that do oil analysis that run routinely
> past 10,000 miles on dino oil and much longer on synthetic.

The 7500 mile interval is require under the warranty. If you don't care
about the warranty, you can change it at whatever interval you like.

>> As I've said above, the "severe service" is a bunch of nonsense that
>> can be ignored if you drive like most people do. Virtually everyone
>> falls into one or the other of the categories they list. I can tell
>> you from experience that if you follow Hyundai's standard schedule,
>> that's all they care about unless there is obvious evidence that your
>> vehicle has been abused. No one is ever going to deny a warranty claim
>> because you drive on dirt roads occasionally, drive in stop and go
>> traffic at times or any of the other items listed in the severe
>> service list of sins.

> That is your opinion, but not the opinion of virtually every car maker
> in the world.

Please show me the survey of "virtually every car maker in the world"
that shows that they ever actually deny claims based on the their
"severe service" requirements. The reality is that it simply doesn't
happen except in the more egregious, obvious cases of abuse. As I said
above, there is no way for a company to know how you drive your car
unless there are obvious signs of abuse. Additionally, under warranty
law, it's up to the company to prove that you violated the warranty
provisions, not up to you to prove that you didn't.

 

Brian Nystrom wrote:
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>>
>>> Well, I guess I must be better at math than you, as I don't find
>>> calculating 7500 mile intervals to be a challenge. ;-)
>>
>>
>> Not a math issue, but a memory issue. If you tell me that my odometer
>> has 67,000 miles on it, I can tell you within a second that I'm due
>> for a change in 3,000 miles. You can't do that with 7,500 mile
>> intervals. Since they alternate 2,500 and 7,500 multiples in between
>> the 15,000 mile multiples, you have to go back to the nearest 15,000
>> mile multiple (60,000 in this case) and then add 7,500 miles to get
>> 67,500 and then subtract to get that you are 500 miles from you next
>> change. It is just a lot easier to use 5,000 or 10,000. :-)
>
>
> Funny, I have no trouble remembering what my next change interval is. If
> I ever do have a question, I can always look in the maintenance log.

I didn't have a problem when I had just one vehicle, but now with 4, and
being well over 40, it isn't as easy. :-)



>>> Fine, but changing at 5K is still more frequently than necesary.
>
>
>> So is changing at 7,500. :-) It is just a matter of where you choose
>> to draw the line. There folks that do oil analysis that run routinely
>> past 10,000 miles on dino oil and much longer on synthetic.
>
>
> The 7500 mile interval is require under the warranty. If you don't care
> about the warranty, you can change it at whatever interval you like.
>
>>> As I've said above, the "severe service" is a bunch of nonsense that
>>> can be ignored if you drive like most people do. Virtually everyone
>>> falls into one or the other of the categories they list. I can tell
>>> you from experience that if you follow Hyundai's standard schedule,
>>> that's all they care about unless there is obvious evidence that your
>>> vehicle has been abused. No one is ever going to deny a warranty
>>> claim because you drive on dirt roads occasionally, drive in stop and
>>> go traffic at times or any of the other items listed in the severe
>>> service list of sins.
>
>
>> That is your opinion, but not the opinion of virtually every car maker
>> in the world.
>
>
> Please show me the survey of "virtually every car maker in the world"
> that shows that they ever actually deny claims based on the their
> "severe service" requirements. The reality is that it simply doesn't
> happen except in the more egregious, obvious cases of abuse. As I said
> above, there is no way for a company to know how you drive your car
> unless there are obvious signs of abuse. Additionally, under warranty
> law, it's up to the company to prove that you violated the warranty
> provisions, not up to you to prove that you didn't.

I didn't say they deny warranty repairs, I said that this is their
opinion as evidenced by the fact that nearly every owner's and service
manual that I own has two maintenance schedules.


Matt

 

Brian Nystrom wrote:
> Matt Whiting wrote:
>
>> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>>
>>> Well, I guess I must be better at math than you, as I don't find
>>> calculating 7500 mile intervals to be a challenge. ;-)
>>
>>
>> Not a math issue, but a memory issue. If you tell me that my odometer
>> has 67,000 miles on it, I can tell you within a second that I'm due
>> for a change in 3,000 miles. You can't do that with 7,500 mile
>> intervals. Since they alternate 2,500 and 7,500 multiples in between
>> the 15,000 mile multiples, you have to go back to the nearest 15,000
>> mile multiple (60,000 in this case) and then add 7,500 miles to get
>> 67,500 and then subtract to get that you are 500 miles from you next
>> change. It is just a lot easier to use 5,000 or 10,000. :-)
>
>
> Funny, I have no trouble remembering what my next change interval is. If
> I ever do have a question, I can always look in the maintenance log.

I didn't have a problem when I had just one vehicle, but now with 4, and
being well over 40, it isn't as easy. :-)



>>> Fine, but changing at 5K is still more frequently than necesary.
>
>
>> So is changing at 7,500. :-) It is just a matter of where you choose
>> to draw the line. There folks that do oil analysis that run routinely
>> past 10,000 miles on dino oil and much longer on synthetic.
>
>
> The 7500 mile interval is require under the warranty. If you don't care
> about the warranty, you can change it at whatever interval you like.
>
>>> As I've said above, the "severe service" is a bunch of nonsense that
>>> can be ignored if you drive like most people do. Virtually everyone
>>> falls into one or the other of the categories they list. I can tell
>>> you from experience that if you follow Hyundai's standard schedule,
>>> that's all they care about unless there is obvious evidence that your
>>> vehicle has been abused. No one is ever going to deny a warranty
>>> claim because you drive on dirt roads occasionally, drive in stop and
>>> go traffic at times or any of the other items listed in the severe
>>> service list of sins.
>
>
>> That is your opinion, but not the opinion of virtually every car maker
>> in the world.
>
>
> Please show me the survey of "virtually every car maker in the world"
> that shows that they ever actually deny claims based on the their
> "severe service" requirements. The reality is that it simply doesn't
> happen except in the more egregious, obvious cases of abuse. As I said
> above, there is no way for a company to know how you drive your car
> unless there are obvious signs of abuse. Additionally, under warranty
> law, it's up to the company to prove that you violated the warranty
> provisions, not up to you to prove that you didn't.

I didn't say they deny warranty repairs, I said that this is their
opinion as evidenced by the fact that nearly every owner's and service
manual that I own has two maintenance schedules.


Matt