Mobil 1 5W-20
#46
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
Brian Nystrom wrote:
> Dumbass wrote:
>
>> I only run Castrol SYNTEC* in my cars.
>> Oil change every three months
>
>
> Brand of oil is largely meaningless, since any oil that meets API specs
> is going to last longer than Hyundai's recommended 7500 mile change
> interval. That's doubly true of synthetics. Tests I've seen on synthetic
> oils indicate that there's little practical difference between them.
> Even Walmart's low-priced, house-brand "SuperTech" synthetic seems to be
> as good as the big name oils. I've used it with no problems, though
> lately, Pep Boys has been running specials on Pennzoil synthetic at
> ~$2/quart, so I've bought some of that.
Can you point me to these tests. I've never seen the off-brand
SuperTech tested anywhere.
Matt
> Dumbass wrote:
>
>> I only run Castrol SYNTEC* in my cars.
>> Oil change every three months
>
>
> Brand of oil is largely meaningless, since any oil that meets API specs
> is going to last longer than Hyundai's recommended 7500 mile change
> interval. That's doubly true of synthetics. Tests I've seen on synthetic
> oils indicate that there's little practical difference between them.
> Even Walmart's low-priced, house-brand "SuperTech" synthetic seems to be
> as good as the big name oils. I've used it with no problems, though
> lately, Pep Boys has been running specials on Pennzoil synthetic at
> ~$2/quart, so I've bought some of that.
Can you point me to these tests. I've never seen the off-brand
SuperTech tested anywhere.
Matt
#47
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
Don't know where you're getting your info but it ain't right.There IS a
difference between synthetics,Castrol syntec being the worst in every
SAE and independent tests I've read.I've been a proponent of Synthetics
since 1975 and have used Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella in every vehicle I
own.Amsoil is good but WAY to EXPENSIVE.Mobil Delvac is also excellent
but I can't get it around here.
RIPPER
FREEDOM WILL NEVER BE FREE!
BOYCOTT CALIFORNIA SPORT TOURING!
difference between synthetics,Castrol syntec being the worst in every
SAE and independent tests I've read.I've been a proponent of Synthetics
since 1975 and have used Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella in every vehicle I
own.Amsoil is good but WAY to EXPENSIVE.Mobil Delvac is also excellent
but I can't get it around here.
RIPPER
FREEDOM WILL NEVER BE FREE!
BOYCOTT CALIFORNIA SPORT TOURING!
#48
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
Don't know where you're getting your info but it ain't right.There IS a
difference between synthetics,Castrol syntec being the worst in every
SAE and independent tests I've read.I've been a proponent of Synthetics
since 1975 and have used Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella in every vehicle I
own.Amsoil is good but WAY to EXPENSIVE.Mobil Delvac is also excellent
but I can't get it around here.
RIPPER
FREEDOM WILL NEVER BE FREE!
BOYCOTT CALIFORNIA SPORT TOURING!
difference between synthetics,Castrol syntec being the worst in every
SAE and independent tests I've read.I've been a proponent of Synthetics
since 1975 and have used Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella in every vehicle I
own.Amsoil is good but WAY to EXPENSIVE.Mobil Delvac is also excellent
but I can't get it around here.
RIPPER
FREEDOM WILL NEVER BE FREE!
BOYCOTT CALIFORNIA SPORT TOURING!
#49
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
Don't know where you're getting your info but it ain't right.There IS a
difference between synthetics,Castrol syntec being the worst in every
SAE and independent tests I've read.I've been a proponent of Synthetics
since 1975 and have used Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella in every vehicle I
own.Amsoil is good but WAY to EXPENSIVE.Mobil Delvac is also excellent
but I can't get it around here.
RIPPER
FREEDOM WILL NEVER BE FREE!
BOYCOTT CALIFORNIA SPORT TOURING!
difference between synthetics,Castrol syntec being the worst in every
SAE and independent tests I've read.I've been a proponent of Synthetics
since 1975 and have used Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella in every vehicle I
own.Amsoil is good but WAY to EXPENSIVE.Mobil Delvac is also excellent
but I can't get it around here.
RIPPER
FREEDOM WILL NEVER BE FREE!
BOYCOTT CALIFORNIA SPORT TOURING!
#50
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Dumbass wrote:
>>
>>> I only run Castrol SYNTEC* in my cars.
>>> Oil change every three months
>>
>> Brand of oil is largely meaningless, since any oil that meets API
>> specs is going to last longer than Hyundai's recommended 7500 mile
>> change interval. That's doubly true of synthetics. Tests I've seen on
>> synthetic oils indicate that there's little practical difference
>> between them. Even Walmart's low-priced, house-brand "SuperTech"
>> synthetic seems to be as good as the big name oils. I've used it with
>> no problems, though lately, Pep Boys has been running specials on
>> Pennzoil synthetic at ~$2/quart, so I've bought some of that.
>
> Can you point me to these tests. I've never seen the off-brand
> SuperTech tested anywhere.
I don't it bookmarked, but IIRC, I just did a search on "Supertech
synthetic oil test" or something similar and waded through the results.
I found the results from a testing lab that analysed it and gave some
conclusions based on what they found. Essentially, they said the base
stock is the same as many other brands (not surprising since the blender
makes oils for several other companies, including big name brands) and
the additive package is comparable to what other oils use.
When you get right down to it, nowadays, oil is oil. The differences
that companies tout in order to attract consumers are so small as to be
irrelevent. Modern oils are incredibly good. Just look for the API seal
and if an oil has it, it's more than good enough to put in your engine.
I would avoid oils that are not API certified, unless you're willing to
spend the money for Amsoil. I'm not.
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Dumbass wrote:
>>
>>> I only run Castrol SYNTEC* in my cars.
>>> Oil change every three months
>>
>> Brand of oil is largely meaningless, since any oil that meets API
>> specs is going to last longer than Hyundai's recommended 7500 mile
>> change interval. That's doubly true of synthetics. Tests I've seen on
>> synthetic oils indicate that there's little practical difference
>> between them. Even Walmart's low-priced, house-brand "SuperTech"
>> synthetic seems to be as good as the big name oils. I've used it with
>> no problems, though lately, Pep Boys has been running specials on
>> Pennzoil synthetic at ~$2/quart, so I've bought some of that.
>
> Can you point me to these tests. I've never seen the off-brand
> SuperTech tested anywhere.
I don't it bookmarked, but IIRC, I just did a search on "Supertech
synthetic oil test" or something similar and waded through the results.
I found the results from a testing lab that analysed it and gave some
conclusions based on what they found. Essentially, they said the base
stock is the same as many other brands (not surprising since the blender
makes oils for several other companies, including big name brands) and
the additive package is comparable to what other oils use.
When you get right down to it, nowadays, oil is oil. The differences
that companies tout in order to attract consumers are so small as to be
irrelevent. Modern oils are incredibly good. Just look for the API seal
and if an oil has it, it's more than good enough to put in your engine.
I would avoid oils that are not API certified, unless you're willing to
spend the money for Amsoil. I'm not.
#51
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Dumbass wrote:
>>
>>> I only run Castrol SYNTEC* in my cars.
>>> Oil change every three months
>>
>> Brand of oil is largely meaningless, since any oil that meets API
>> specs is going to last longer than Hyundai's recommended 7500 mile
>> change interval. That's doubly true of synthetics. Tests I've seen on
>> synthetic oils indicate that there's little practical difference
>> between them. Even Walmart's low-priced, house-brand "SuperTech"
>> synthetic seems to be as good as the big name oils. I've used it with
>> no problems, though lately, Pep Boys has been running specials on
>> Pennzoil synthetic at ~$2/quart, so I've bought some of that.
>
> Can you point me to these tests. I've never seen the off-brand
> SuperTech tested anywhere.
I don't it bookmarked, but IIRC, I just did a search on "Supertech
synthetic oil test" or something similar and waded through the results.
I found the results from a testing lab that analysed it and gave some
conclusions based on what they found. Essentially, they said the base
stock is the same as many other brands (not surprising since the blender
makes oils for several other companies, including big name brands) and
the additive package is comparable to what other oils use.
When you get right down to it, nowadays, oil is oil. The differences
that companies tout in order to attract consumers are so small as to be
irrelevent. Modern oils are incredibly good. Just look for the API seal
and if an oil has it, it's more than good enough to put in your engine.
I would avoid oils that are not API certified, unless you're willing to
spend the money for Amsoil. I'm not.
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Dumbass wrote:
>>
>>> I only run Castrol SYNTEC* in my cars.
>>> Oil change every three months
>>
>> Brand of oil is largely meaningless, since any oil that meets API
>> specs is going to last longer than Hyundai's recommended 7500 mile
>> change interval. That's doubly true of synthetics. Tests I've seen on
>> synthetic oils indicate that there's little practical difference
>> between them. Even Walmart's low-priced, house-brand "SuperTech"
>> synthetic seems to be as good as the big name oils. I've used it with
>> no problems, though lately, Pep Boys has been running specials on
>> Pennzoil synthetic at ~$2/quart, so I've bought some of that.
>
> Can you point me to these tests. I've never seen the off-brand
> SuperTech tested anywhere.
I don't it bookmarked, but IIRC, I just did a search on "Supertech
synthetic oil test" or something similar and waded through the results.
I found the results from a testing lab that analysed it and gave some
conclusions based on what they found. Essentially, they said the base
stock is the same as many other brands (not surprising since the blender
makes oils for several other companies, including big name brands) and
the additive package is comparable to what other oils use.
When you get right down to it, nowadays, oil is oil. The differences
that companies tout in order to attract consumers are so small as to be
irrelevent. Modern oils are incredibly good. Just look for the API seal
and if an oil has it, it's more than good enough to put in your engine.
I would avoid oils that are not API certified, unless you're willing to
spend the money for Amsoil. I'm not.
#52
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Dumbass wrote:
>>
>>> I only run Castrol SYNTEC* in my cars.
>>> Oil change every three months
>>
>> Brand of oil is largely meaningless, since any oil that meets API
>> specs is going to last longer than Hyundai's recommended 7500 mile
>> change interval. That's doubly true of synthetics. Tests I've seen on
>> synthetic oils indicate that there's little practical difference
>> between them. Even Walmart's low-priced, house-brand "SuperTech"
>> synthetic seems to be as good as the big name oils. I've used it with
>> no problems, though lately, Pep Boys has been running specials on
>> Pennzoil synthetic at ~$2/quart, so I've bought some of that.
>
> Can you point me to these tests. I've never seen the off-brand
> SuperTech tested anywhere.
I don't it bookmarked, but IIRC, I just did a search on "Supertech
synthetic oil test" or something similar and waded through the results.
I found the results from a testing lab that analysed it and gave some
conclusions based on what they found. Essentially, they said the base
stock is the same as many other brands (not surprising since the blender
makes oils for several other companies, including big name brands) and
the additive package is comparable to what other oils use.
When you get right down to it, nowadays, oil is oil. The differences
that companies tout in order to attract consumers are so small as to be
irrelevent. Modern oils are incredibly good. Just look for the API seal
and if an oil has it, it's more than good enough to put in your engine.
I would avoid oils that are not API certified, unless you're willing to
spend the money for Amsoil. I'm not.
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> Dumbass wrote:
>>
>>> I only run Castrol SYNTEC* in my cars.
>>> Oil change every three months
>>
>> Brand of oil is largely meaningless, since any oil that meets API
>> specs is going to last longer than Hyundai's recommended 7500 mile
>> change interval. That's doubly true of synthetics. Tests I've seen on
>> synthetic oils indicate that there's little practical difference
>> between them. Even Walmart's low-priced, house-brand "SuperTech"
>> synthetic seems to be as good as the big name oils. I've used it with
>> no problems, though lately, Pep Boys has been running specials on
>> Pennzoil synthetic at ~$2/quart, so I've bought some of that.
>
> Can you point me to these tests. I've never seen the off-brand
> SuperTech tested anywhere.
I don't it bookmarked, but IIRC, I just did a search on "Supertech
synthetic oil test" or something similar and waded through the results.
I found the results from a testing lab that analysed it and gave some
conclusions based on what they found. Essentially, they said the base
stock is the same as many other brands (not surprising since the blender
makes oils for several other companies, including big name brands) and
the additive package is comparable to what other oils use.
When you get right down to it, nowadays, oil is oil. The differences
that companies tout in order to attract consumers are so small as to be
irrelevent. Modern oils are incredibly good. Just look for the API seal
and if an oil has it, it's more than good enough to put in your engine.
I would avoid oils that are not API certified, unless you're willing to
spend the money for Amsoil. I'm not.
#53
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
CBX2@webtv.net wrote:
> Don't know where you're getting your info but it ain't right.There IS a
> difference between synthetics,Castrol syntec being the worst in every
> SAE and independent tests I've read.
If you say so, but relative to what? How much of a difference is there?
Test results are great and they're certainly important, but if they're
splitting hairs, they don't mean much in the real world.
Have you ever seen a test that rated a synthetic below a natural oil? If
the latter is good enough to do the job according to the manufacturer
of the engine, isn't it fair to assume that ANY synthetic will greatly
exceed the needs of the engine?
Is there any API certified oil that won't protect an engine adequately
for the 7500 miles that Hyundai specifies between changes, assuming one
uses the proper viscocity? I have yet to see any data that indicates
that there is. If you know of any, please post links here.
It seems to me that the quality of the oil filter one uses is probably
more important than the brand of oil, but that's another debate.
> I've been a proponent of Synthetics
> since 1975 and have used Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella in every vehicle I
> own.
OK, but what's your point?
> Amsoil is good but WAY to EXPENSIVE.
No argument here.
> Mobil Delvac is also excellent but I can't get it around here.
I don't think I've ever seen it.
This is all good information to know, but I don't see how it's relevent.
It's much like arguing about how many angels will fit on the head of a
pin; it really doesn't matter in the real world.
> Don't know where you're getting your info but it ain't right.There IS a
> difference between synthetics,Castrol syntec being the worst in every
> SAE and independent tests I've read.
If you say so, but relative to what? How much of a difference is there?
Test results are great and they're certainly important, but if they're
splitting hairs, they don't mean much in the real world.
Have you ever seen a test that rated a synthetic below a natural oil? If
the latter is good enough to do the job according to the manufacturer
of the engine, isn't it fair to assume that ANY synthetic will greatly
exceed the needs of the engine?
Is there any API certified oil that won't protect an engine adequately
for the 7500 miles that Hyundai specifies between changes, assuming one
uses the proper viscocity? I have yet to see any data that indicates
that there is. If you know of any, please post links here.
It seems to me that the quality of the oil filter one uses is probably
more important than the brand of oil, but that's another debate.
> I've been a proponent of Synthetics
> since 1975 and have used Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella in every vehicle I
> own.
OK, but what's your point?
> Amsoil is good but WAY to EXPENSIVE.
No argument here.
> Mobil Delvac is also excellent but I can't get it around here.
I don't think I've ever seen it.
This is all good information to know, but I don't see how it's relevent.
It's much like arguing about how many angels will fit on the head of a
pin; it really doesn't matter in the real world.
#54
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
CBX2@webtv.net wrote:
> Don't know where you're getting your info but it ain't right.There IS a
> difference between synthetics,Castrol syntec being the worst in every
> SAE and independent tests I've read.
If you say so, but relative to what? How much of a difference is there?
Test results are great and they're certainly important, but if they're
splitting hairs, they don't mean much in the real world.
Have you ever seen a test that rated a synthetic below a natural oil? If
the latter is good enough to do the job according to the manufacturer
of the engine, isn't it fair to assume that ANY synthetic will greatly
exceed the needs of the engine?
Is there any API certified oil that won't protect an engine adequately
for the 7500 miles that Hyundai specifies between changes, assuming one
uses the proper viscocity? I have yet to see any data that indicates
that there is. If you know of any, please post links here.
It seems to me that the quality of the oil filter one uses is probably
more important than the brand of oil, but that's another debate.
> I've been a proponent of Synthetics
> since 1975 and have used Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella in every vehicle I
> own.
OK, but what's your point?
> Amsoil is good but WAY to EXPENSIVE.
No argument here.
> Mobil Delvac is also excellent but I can't get it around here.
I don't think I've ever seen it.
This is all good information to know, but I don't see how it's relevent.
It's much like arguing about how many angels will fit on the head of a
pin; it really doesn't matter in the real world.
> Don't know where you're getting your info but it ain't right.There IS a
> difference between synthetics,Castrol syntec being the worst in every
> SAE and independent tests I've read.
If you say so, but relative to what? How much of a difference is there?
Test results are great and they're certainly important, but if they're
splitting hairs, they don't mean much in the real world.
Have you ever seen a test that rated a synthetic below a natural oil? If
the latter is good enough to do the job according to the manufacturer
of the engine, isn't it fair to assume that ANY synthetic will greatly
exceed the needs of the engine?
Is there any API certified oil that won't protect an engine adequately
for the 7500 miles that Hyundai specifies between changes, assuming one
uses the proper viscocity? I have yet to see any data that indicates
that there is. If you know of any, please post links here.
It seems to me that the quality of the oil filter one uses is probably
more important than the brand of oil, but that's another debate.
> I've been a proponent of Synthetics
> since 1975 and have used Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella in every vehicle I
> own.
OK, but what's your point?
> Amsoil is good but WAY to EXPENSIVE.
No argument here.
> Mobil Delvac is also excellent but I can't get it around here.
I don't think I've ever seen it.
This is all good information to know, but I don't see how it's relevent.
It's much like arguing about how many angels will fit on the head of a
pin; it really doesn't matter in the real world.
#55
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
CBX2@webtv.net wrote:
> Don't know where you're getting your info but it ain't right.There IS a
> difference between synthetics,Castrol syntec being the worst in every
> SAE and independent tests I've read.
If you say so, but relative to what? How much of a difference is there?
Test results are great and they're certainly important, but if they're
splitting hairs, they don't mean much in the real world.
Have you ever seen a test that rated a synthetic below a natural oil? If
the latter is good enough to do the job according to the manufacturer
of the engine, isn't it fair to assume that ANY synthetic will greatly
exceed the needs of the engine?
Is there any API certified oil that won't protect an engine adequately
for the 7500 miles that Hyundai specifies between changes, assuming one
uses the proper viscocity? I have yet to see any data that indicates
that there is. If you know of any, please post links here.
It seems to me that the quality of the oil filter one uses is probably
more important than the brand of oil, but that's another debate.
> I've been a proponent of Synthetics
> since 1975 and have used Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella in every vehicle I
> own.
OK, but what's your point?
> Amsoil is good but WAY to EXPENSIVE.
No argument here.
> Mobil Delvac is also excellent but I can't get it around here.
I don't think I've ever seen it.
This is all good information to know, but I don't see how it's relevent.
It's much like arguing about how many angels will fit on the head of a
pin; it really doesn't matter in the real world.
> Don't know where you're getting your info but it ain't right.There IS a
> difference between synthetics,Castrol syntec being the worst in every
> SAE and independent tests I've read.
If you say so, but relative to what? How much of a difference is there?
Test results are great and they're certainly important, but if they're
splitting hairs, they don't mean much in the real world.
Have you ever seen a test that rated a synthetic below a natural oil? If
the latter is good enough to do the job according to the manufacturer
of the engine, isn't it fair to assume that ANY synthetic will greatly
exceed the needs of the engine?
Is there any API certified oil that won't protect an engine adequately
for the 7500 miles that Hyundai specifies between changes, assuming one
uses the proper viscocity? I have yet to see any data that indicates
that there is. If you know of any, please post links here.
It seems to me that the quality of the oil filter one uses is probably
more important than the brand of oil, but that's another debate.
> I've been a proponent of Synthetics
> since 1975 and have used Mobil 1 or Shell Rotella in every vehicle I
> own.
OK, but what's your point?
> Amsoil is good but WAY to EXPENSIVE.
No argument here.
> Mobil Delvac is also excellent but I can't get it around here.
I don't think I've ever seen it.
This is all good information to know, but I don't see how it's relevent.
It's much like arguing about how many angels will fit on the head of a
pin; it really doesn't matter in the real world.
#56
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
Brian Nystrom wrote:
> When you get right down to it, nowadays, oil is oil. The differences
> that companies tout in order to attract consumers are so small as to be
> irrelevent. Modern oils are incredibly good. Just look for the API seal
> and if an oil has it, it's more than good enough to put in your engine.
> I would avoid oils that are not API certified, unless you're willing to
> spend the money for Amsoil. I'm not.
I agree that most oils are good enough most of the time, but I disagree
that oil is oil. About the only independent and fairly comprehensive
test of oils that I've seen was done by MCN (Motorcycle Consumer News)
magazine. They have tested oils twice in the last decade or so and the
difference between the top and bottom oils is very dramatic, often 2X or
more in tests such as the ability to maintain viscosity, etc. Cheap
oils really are much worse than top rated oils. It may not make a
difference if you drive your car only 100,000 in easy conditions and
then trade it in, but if you drive 200,000 plus as I intend to (except
my last two vehicles got totaled at 143K and 182K), in a variety of
conditions from -20 to over 100, in the mountains, etc., then I'd rather
have the good stuff.
Matt
> When you get right down to it, nowadays, oil is oil. The differences
> that companies tout in order to attract consumers are so small as to be
> irrelevent. Modern oils are incredibly good. Just look for the API seal
> and if an oil has it, it's more than good enough to put in your engine.
> I would avoid oils that are not API certified, unless you're willing to
> spend the money for Amsoil. I'm not.
I agree that most oils are good enough most of the time, but I disagree
that oil is oil. About the only independent and fairly comprehensive
test of oils that I've seen was done by MCN (Motorcycle Consumer News)
magazine. They have tested oils twice in the last decade or so and the
difference between the top and bottom oils is very dramatic, often 2X or
more in tests such as the ability to maintain viscosity, etc. Cheap
oils really are much worse than top rated oils. It may not make a
difference if you drive your car only 100,000 in easy conditions and
then trade it in, but if you drive 200,000 plus as I intend to (except
my last two vehicles got totaled at 143K and 182K), in a variety of
conditions from -20 to over 100, in the mountains, etc., then I'd rather
have the good stuff.
Matt
#57
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
Brian Nystrom wrote:
> When you get right down to it, nowadays, oil is oil. The differences
> that companies tout in order to attract consumers are so small as to be
> irrelevent. Modern oils are incredibly good. Just look for the API seal
> and if an oil has it, it's more than good enough to put in your engine.
> I would avoid oils that are not API certified, unless you're willing to
> spend the money for Amsoil. I'm not.
I agree that most oils are good enough most of the time, but I disagree
that oil is oil. About the only independent and fairly comprehensive
test of oils that I've seen was done by MCN (Motorcycle Consumer News)
magazine. They have tested oils twice in the last decade or so and the
difference between the top and bottom oils is very dramatic, often 2X or
more in tests such as the ability to maintain viscosity, etc. Cheap
oils really are much worse than top rated oils. It may not make a
difference if you drive your car only 100,000 in easy conditions and
then trade it in, but if you drive 200,000 plus as I intend to (except
my last two vehicles got totaled at 143K and 182K), in a variety of
conditions from -20 to over 100, in the mountains, etc., then I'd rather
have the good stuff.
Matt
> When you get right down to it, nowadays, oil is oil. The differences
> that companies tout in order to attract consumers are so small as to be
> irrelevent. Modern oils are incredibly good. Just look for the API seal
> and if an oil has it, it's more than good enough to put in your engine.
> I would avoid oils that are not API certified, unless you're willing to
> spend the money for Amsoil. I'm not.
I agree that most oils are good enough most of the time, but I disagree
that oil is oil. About the only independent and fairly comprehensive
test of oils that I've seen was done by MCN (Motorcycle Consumer News)
magazine. They have tested oils twice in the last decade or so and the
difference between the top and bottom oils is very dramatic, often 2X or
more in tests such as the ability to maintain viscosity, etc. Cheap
oils really are much worse than top rated oils. It may not make a
difference if you drive your car only 100,000 in easy conditions and
then trade it in, but if you drive 200,000 plus as I intend to (except
my last two vehicles got totaled at 143K and 182K), in a variety of
conditions from -20 to over 100, in the mountains, etc., then I'd rather
have the good stuff.
Matt
#58
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
Brian Nystrom wrote:
> When you get right down to it, nowadays, oil is oil. The differences
> that companies tout in order to attract consumers are so small as to be
> irrelevent. Modern oils are incredibly good. Just look for the API seal
> and if an oil has it, it's more than good enough to put in your engine.
> I would avoid oils that are not API certified, unless you're willing to
> spend the money for Amsoil. I'm not.
I agree that most oils are good enough most of the time, but I disagree
that oil is oil. About the only independent and fairly comprehensive
test of oils that I've seen was done by MCN (Motorcycle Consumer News)
magazine. They have tested oils twice in the last decade or so and the
difference between the top and bottom oils is very dramatic, often 2X or
more in tests such as the ability to maintain viscosity, etc. Cheap
oils really are much worse than top rated oils. It may not make a
difference if you drive your car only 100,000 in easy conditions and
then trade it in, but if you drive 200,000 plus as I intend to (except
my last two vehicles got totaled at 143K and 182K), in a variety of
conditions from -20 to over 100, in the mountains, etc., then I'd rather
have the good stuff.
Matt
> When you get right down to it, nowadays, oil is oil. The differences
> that companies tout in order to attract consumers are so small as to be
> irrelevent. Modern oils are incredibly good. Just look for the API seal
> and if an oil has it, it's more than good enough to put in your engine.
> I would avoid oils that are not API certified, unless you're willing to
> spend the money for Amsoil. I'm not.
I agree that most oils are good enough most of the time, but I disagree
that oil is oil. About the only independent and fairly comprehensive
test of oils that I've seen was done by MCN (Motorcycle Consumer News)
magazine. They have tested oils twice in the last decade or so and the
difference between the top and bottom oils is very dramatic, often 2X or
more in tests such as the ability to maintain viscosity, etc. Cheap
oils really are much worse than top rated oils. It may not make a
difference if you drive your car only 100,000 in easy conditions and
then trade it in, but if you drive 200,000 plus as I intend to (except
my last two vehicles got totaled at 143K and 182K), in a variety of
conditions from -20 to over 100, in the mountains, etc., then I'd rather
have the good stuff.
Matt
#59
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
Brian Nystrom wrote:
> CBX2@webtv.net wrote:
>> Mobil Delvac is also excellent but I can't get it around here.
>
>
> I don't think I've ever seen it.
Mobil Delvac 1 is basically the fleet version of Mobil 1. I used it
years ago mainly because it came in 1 gallon jugs and was much easier
than messing with the loose quarts. It was designed for owners of
fleets of diesel engine vehicles, but it also met the API auto standard
of the time (this was in the late 70s).
I think Delvac 1 stopped following the gasoline engine specs sometime in
the early 80s and I haven't seen it for years so I'm not sure if they
even sell it still. They probably do, but I don't get to the Mobil
distributor very often and they only sold it throught a distributor back
in the 70s.
Matt
> CBX2@webtv.net wrote:
>> Mobil Delvac is also excellent but I can't get it around here.
>
>
> I don't think I've ever seen it.
Mobil Delvac 1 is basically the fleet version of Mobil 1. I used it
years ago mainly because it came in 1 gallon jugs and was much easier
than messing with the loose quarts. It was designed for owners of
fleets of diesel engine vehicles, but it also met the API auto standard
of the time (this was in the late 70s).
I think Delvac 1 stopped following the gasoline engine specs sometime in
the early 80s and I haven't seen it for years so I'm not sure if they
even sell it still. They probably do, but I don't get to the Mobil
distributor very often and they only sold it throught a distributor back
in the 70s.
Matt
#60
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Mobil 1 5W-20
Brian Nystrom wrote:
> CBX2@webtv.net wrote:
>> Mobil Delvac is also excellent but I can't get it around here.
>
>
> I don't think I've ever seen it.
Mobil Delvac 1 is basically the fleet version of Mobil 1. I used it
years ago mainly because it came in 1 gallon jugs and was much easier
than messing with the loose quarts. It was designed for owners of
fleets of diesel engine vehicles, but it also met the API auto standard
of the time (this was in the late 70s).
I think Delvac 1 stopped following the gasoline engine specs sometime in
the early 80s and I haven't seen it for years so I'm not sure if they
even sell it still. They probably do, but I don't get to the Mobil
distributor very often and they only sold it throught a distributor back
in the 70s.
Matt
> CBX2@webtv.net wrote:
>> Mobil Delvac is also excellent but I can't get it around here.
>
>
> I don't think I've ever seen it.
Mobil Delvac 1 is basically the fleet version of Mobil 1. I used it
years ago mainly because it came in 1 gallon jugs and was much easier
than messing with the loose quarts. It was designed for owners of
fleets of diesel engine vehicles, but it also met the API auto standard
of the time (this was in the late 70s).
I think Delvac 1 stopped following the gasoline engine specs sometime in
the early 80s and I haven't seen it for years so I'm not sure if they
even sell it still. They probably do, but I don't get to the Mobil
distributor very often and they only sold it throught a distributor back
in the 70s.
Matt