My headlights won't change from low to high beams. They're stuck on low.
At least, that's what I believe is happening. The light pattern actually
looks high to me, but it's hard for me to believe that my lights are
stuck on high.

When I switch from lows to highs with the stalk switch, my blue dash
light illuminates but simultaneously, the lows remain on.

And when, with the lights off, I "flash the highs," the dash light comes
on, but the headlights don't light. I suspect that my problem is the
headlight relay.

I was able to download the headlight schematic from the Hyundai tech
site; also, the set of three schematics named "illuminations."
Unfortunately, Hyundai's component location chart does not list the
headlight relay.

I'm confused: it would seem logical that with a relay problem, when I
flip either switch that engages my high beams, my lights would go out
altogether.

What I need to know are:
- Where is the headlight relay located?
- What does the relay look like?
- Are there two separate headlight relays, or are both in the same
housing? The diagram shows two separate relays.
- Is there some other common problem that can cause this failure?

Richard

 

Don't dismiss the bulbs themselves. I've seen far more cars with two
burned out headlamp bulbs (albeit not dedicated high beam bulbs) than with
bad headlamp relays.

As I look at the schematic, I see it's impossible that the relay is the
problem because it activates the high beam indicator as well as the high
beams themselves.

If you're unsure about the bulbs, use a test light or voltmeter to test
for power and ground at the bulb connectors. Be sure you're checking the
proper bulb. I believe the high beam bulb is the lower one.

If you eliminate the bulbs as a possibility and you're not getting power,
you'll need to check for power output from the underhood fuse box at JE01
terminal A4. You'll have to unbolt the fuse box, wrestle it upside down,
and check for power on that terminal. There's a diagram in the schematic
section under the "Fuse/Relay Box Details" and then "Fuse and Relay
Information" links.

And FYI, there are two relays, one for low beams and one for high beams.
They're both in the underhood fuse block.

 

hyundaitech wrote:
> Don't dismiss the bulbs themselves. I've seen far more cars with two
> burned out headlamp bulbs (albeit not dedicated high beam bulbs) than with
> bad headlamp relays.
>
> As I look at the schematic, I see it's impossible that the relay is the
> problem because it activates the high beam indicator as well as the high
> beams themselves.
>
Yes indeed. I noticed that last night after writing the post. This had
me thinking about the connector marked "A4" "JE01" on the print.

And, honestly, I hadn't been thinking about the filaments because I'm an
urban dude, and almost never use my high beams.

> If you're unsure about the bulbs, use a test light or voltmeter to test
> for power and ground at the bulb connectors. Be sure you're checking the
> proper bulb. I believe the high beam bulb is the lower one.
>

I'll use a multitester to check for voltage to the bulbs and/or
resistance across the filaments -- that is, if I can figure out how to
get onto the connections. Is it easy to get at the bulb connectors?

> If you eliminate the bulbs as a possibility and you're not getting power,
> you'll need to check for power output from the underhood fuse box at JE01
> terminal A4. You'll have to unbolt the fuse box, wrestle it upside down,
> and check for power on that terminal. There's a diagram in the schematic
> section under the "Fuse/Relay Box Details" and then "Fuse and Relay
> Information" links.
>

I'll check that.

> And FYI, there are two relays, one for low beams and one for high beams.
> They're both in the underhood fuse block.
>

If I'm reading the print correctly, the low beams are on all the time
that the headlight switch is on. In other words, the low beams stay on
when the highs are switched on. Is this correct?

Richard

 

You can access the bulb connectors by removing the access cover from the
rear of the headlamp assembly. As I recall, the battery and washer
reservoir filler neck complicate getting inside well. I usually remove
the bulb and just look at the filament. If you really do need to check
with a multimeter, it may be easier if you unbolt the headlamps and pull
them out some.

The website isn't coming up at the moment and I'm not at work, so I can't
look at the schematic right now, but I believe you're correct that the low
beams stay on when the high beams are on.

 

hyundaitech wrote:
> You can access the bulb connectors by removing the access cover from the
> rear of the headlamp assembly. As I recall, the battery and washer
> reservoir filler neck complicate getting inside well. I usually remove
> the bulb and just look at the filament. If you really do need to check
> with a multimeter, it may be easier if you unbolt the headlamps and pull
> them out some.
>

I noted your comment and I've printed out the whole fuse/terminal
section of the manual.

> The website isn't coming up at the moment and I'm not at work, so I can't
> look at the schematic right now, but I believe you're correct that the low
> beams stay on when the high beams are on.
>

Looking at the diagrams reminded me of my 62 SAAB, the funny-looking
2-stroke car; it used four fuses for the headlights. Each filament had
its own fuse. That's a thoughtful design. If one of your filaments
shorts out at night, you don't suddenly go blind. They put this kind of
brainpower into safety. Good simple ideas. I wish that all engineering
was like this.

Richard