After I read out the computer from my 94 excel I get the following error
code: 43 EGR system

Any suggestions how to solve this problem?

 

Are the other error codes gone now?
If so, check the temperature sensor in your EGR valve. The common problem
is that it goes open and the computer sees something like -50C. I have no
resistance specs, but the scan tool reading has always taken me right to
the problem.

 

Yes, the rest of the fault codes are gone so far. I'll see if I can check
the temperature sensor. I'm not a supermechanic

 

Can you tell me how I can check if the EGR valve is still working. I
checked the vacuum hose and that one is sucking air if I set the engine to
2500 rpm. But how can I see if the valve opens or closes correctly?

 

"Boomerang" <petervdhaak@hetnet.nl> wrote in message
news:9b90a10c307abf62149e1e72c0abba26@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Can you tell me how I can check if the EGR valve is still working. I
> checked the vacuum hose and that one is sucking air if I set the engine to
> 2500 rpm. But how can I see if the valve opens or closes correctly?
>

With the engine off and cold, see if you can get your fingers near
the stem of the valve and lift up the diaphragm to open it up. When
it's open, use another finger or thumb to plug the nipple that the vacuum
hose was connected to. With it plugged, the valve should remain open when
you release the diaphragm, and it should snap shut when you remove
your finger from the nipple. This means that the rubber diaphragm is in
good shape and will respond to vacuum.

Now start the engine, let it idle, and before it gets too hot, reach in and
open the EGR valve again by hand. If it's working properly, the engine
should sputter and/or stall, because of the excess exhaust your letting
back into the engine intake. If the valve is clogged with carbon, nothing
will happen when you open the valve.

Bob

 

Can you tell me how I can lift up the diaphragm? The only thing I see is a
solid metal cylinder/ball with a connection to the vacuum hose at the top
and a connection to a sensor at the bottom of the cylinder. I don't see
any part that can move. Can you tell me how I can see if the diaphragm
moves or not.

 

"Boomerang" <petervdhaak@hetnet.nl> wrote in message
news:28ed898cf47f056b3493c9ef27df715a@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Can you tell me how I can lift up the diaphragm? The only thing I see is a
> solid metal cylinder/ball with a connection to the vacuum hose at the top
> and a connection to a sensor at the bottom of the cylinder. I don't see
> any part that can move. Can you tell me how I can see if the diaphragm
> moves or not.

I'm more familiar with the older style without the sensor, but they
should be pretty similar. The complete valve has a brass upper
section with the vac hose connection that you mention, and a
cast iron lower section that has the two bolts that hold it to the
manifold.

There should be a space between the two big enough to get
your fingers into, and you should be able to feel both the
diaphragm and the stem that controls the valve. A flat blade
screwdriver may also fit in there. Just put your fingers in there
and lift it up a quarter inch.

If the design has changed to accommodate the sensor, you can
just attach a piece of vac hose to the connection and suck on
it to see if the diaphragm is intact. If it is, and if your lungs are
strong enough, try it with the engine running to open the valve
and stall the engine. Otherwise, use a vacuum pump or another
source of vacuum at idle from the engine itself.

Bob