99 Elantra Purge Valve
#1
Guest
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99 Elantra Purge Valve
My check engine light is on and Hyundai said the code came back as a
purge valve, they said they would replace it for 200.00 and I told
them I would have to wait a couple of weeks since they just did the
60000 mile service on my Santa Fe and I didn't have the funds right
now. Well I called a few days later and got a price on the purge valve
alone and it is 30.00, how hard is it to change? I would like to do it
myself as long as it isn't overly complicated or in need of special
tools.
purge valve, they said they would replace it for 200.00 and I told
them I would have to wait a couple of weeks since they just did the
60000 mile service on my Santa Fe and I didn't have the funds right
now. Well I called a few days later and got a price on the purge valve
alone and it is 30.00, how hard is it to change? I would like to do it
myself as long as it isn't overly complicated or in need of special
tools.
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 Elantra Purge Valve
It requires some contorting to get out. It's along the left side frame
rail wedged between the strut tower and the master cylinder. I usually
have good luck with using long handled needlenose pliers to get the valve
out of the hoses and then lube them well for reassembly. In many
instances I don't have to take the clamps loose, making the job much
easier.
rail wedged between the strut tower and the master cylinder. I usually
have good luck with using long handled needlenose pliers to get the valve
out of the hoses and then lube them well for reassembly. In many
instances I don't have to take the clamps loose, making the job much
easier.
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 99 Elantra Purge Valve
Thanks for the tips.
On Wed, 17 Jan 2007 16:58:42 -0500, "hyundaitech"
<notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:
>It requires some contorting to get out. It's along the left side frame
>rail wedged between the strut tower and the master cylinder. I usually
>have good luck with using long handled needlenose pliers to get the valve
>out of the hoses and then lube them well for reassembly. In many
>instances I don't have to take the clamps loose, making the job much
>easier.
On Wed, 17 Jan 2007 16:58:42 -0500, "hyundaitech"
<notpublic@not.public.com> wrote:
>It requires some contorting to get out. It's along the left side frame
>rail wedged between the strut tower and the master cylinder. I usually
>have good luck with using long handled needlenose pliers to get the valve
>out of the hoses and then lube them well for reassembly. In many
>instances I don't have to take the clamps loose, making the job much
>easier.
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