The wife's car developed a very rough idle and when driving the car it
lacked power and would barely keep running. The check engine light came on
and I scanned the vehicle for any DTCs.

I don't recall the code but it stated the problem was fuel injector #1
"short to ground".

I have not removed the engine cover yet. Are there any markings to show
which injector is #1?

Are special tools required to remove the fuel line?

I have changed injectors on my Mustang V8 and I required special fuel line
removal tools to separate the fuel rail from the fuel line.

Thanks for any assistance.

 

Number 1 cylinder would be the first cylinder from front of engine. Or
cylinder closest to the engine drive belt.
Scott

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Don't jump the gun to replacing the injector. Grab an ohmmeter and check
the resistance. It's more likely the connector is unplugged or there's a
wiring problem than there's an actual electrical problem with the
injector.

Rodents love wiring.

As for the work of replacing the injector, you won't need any special
tools.

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Thanks for the replies.

I checked the resistance on #1 and it was within the specification given on
the Hyundai Service website. I unplugged #2 just to see what it's resistance
was and it was the same as #1.

With the engine running, I unplugged #1 and the rocky, shaking idle did not
get worse but when #2 was unplugged while running, the idle was far worse.

Called the Hyundai Dealer parts dept. and he said there were 2 different
injectors for that year, one was around $80 and the other $135. The higher
cost was if the vehicle had California emissions. He needed the VIN number
to determine which injector was required. Neither injector was in stock and
would have to be ordered by the dealer.

With the engine off but key on, the injector harness on #1 had around 12
volts. I could not find what the correct voltage was on the Hyundai Service
website.

Don't really know what to do at this stage. Idle is very rough with light
colored smoke coming from the tailpipe.


"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:22167479e4b3da53221f03331dff90f2@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Don't jump the gun to replacing the injector. Grab an ohmmeter and check
> the resistance. It's more likely the connector is unplugged or there's a
> wiring problem than there's an actual electrical problem with the
> injector.
>
> Rodents love wiring.
>
> As for the work of replacing the injector, you won't need any special
> tools.
>
> --
> Message posted using
> http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.hyundai/
> More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
>
>

 

Should have added the DTCs I pulled this morning.

P0261 Fuel Injector #1 (N30) Short to Ground

P0301 Cylinder #1 Misfire




"paul" <pehodson@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message
news:0TC3k.356$7A1.45@trndny04...
> Thanks for the replies.
>
> I checked the resistance on #1 and it was within the specification given
> on the Hyundai Service website. I unplugged #2 just to see what it's
> resistance was and it was the same as #1.
>
> With the engine running, I unplugged #1 and the rocky, shaking idle did
> not get worse but when #2 was unplugged while running, the idle was far
> worse.
>
> Called the Hyundai Dealer parts dept. and he said there were 2 different
> injectors for that year, one was around $80 and the other $135. The higher
> cost was if the vehicle had California emissions. He needed the VIN number
> to determine which injector was required. Neither injector was in stock
> and would have to be ordered by the dealer.
>
> With the engine off but key on, the injector harness on #1 had around 12
> volts. I could not find what the correct voltage was on the Hyundai
> Service website.
>
> Don't really know what to do at this stage. Idle is very rough with light
> colored smoke coming from the tailpipe.
>
>
> "hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
> news:22167479e4b3da53221f03331dff90f2@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>> Don't jump the gun to replacing the injector. Grab an ohmmeter and check
>> the resistance. It's more likely the connector is unplugged or there's a
>> wiring problem than there's an actual electrical problem with the
>> injector.
>>
>> Rodents love wiring.
>>
>> As for the work of replacing the injector, you won't need any special
>> tools.
>>
>> --
>> Message posted using
>> http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.hyundai/
>> More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.html
>>
>>
>
>

 

Okay. You've pretty much verified the power wire to the injector (battery
voltage with key on) and the injector itself (via resistance). Since this
is a problem with the injector circuit, the potential problems you have
left are the wire from the injector to the ECM and the ECM itself. I'm
pretty much banking at this point that the wire between the injector and
ECM is either broken or rubbed through onto the engine/trans/chassis
somewhere.

*Do not buy an injector. You've already verified the resistance.*

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