I drove Tiburon for 3-4 Housrs, an average speed about 160-180km/h
The problem is, the gear was on 5th, and I put it on 4th gear to pass by one
car, and put back to 5th, and the gear did go in but RPM was still HIGH and
made so loud noise from engine, so I double checked if the gear was on 3rd
but i didn't think so. So i tried to put it to nutral but still RPM was
crazy high and made loud noise. Somehow, I tired to stop the car and finally
did stop the car... and checked the enginoil and coolant, everything was OK.

But now, I have "Check Engine" Light on....


I don't know if I expained good enough....

Please explain why this has happened!!!

 

If your rpm's remained high even after you shifted to fifth, either you
weren't in fifth or the clutch was slipping. I'd find out what the check
engine lamp is about and start there.

 

but my question is, even if it wasn't 5th gear, why wouldn't it go back to
nutral ? IT still remained as high RPM.....

What do you mean by clutch was slippering. ?

Thanks ~

Justin

"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:c3615a731f2a1368dc551bef2442e62d@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> If your rpm's remained high even after you shifted to fifth, either you
> weren't in fifth or the clutch was slipping. I'd find out what the check
> engine lamp is about and start there.
>

 

Can you identify which of these was the case:

The gearshift would not move into neutral,

The gearshift moved into the neutral position, but the transmission
remained in gear and the rpm's remained high, or

The gearshift moved into the neutral position and the transmission shifted
into neutral, but the engine continued at high rpm.



The clutch is a friction disc which is the link between the engine and
transmission. If the clutch becomes worn, it will not link the engine and
transmission fully and engine rpm's will be high under load and the vehicle
will not accelerate properly because the friction surface of the clutch
slips on the flywheel rather than being held tightly.

 

one of these two

The gearshift moved into the neutral position, but the transmission
remained in gear and the rpm's remained high, or

The gearshift moved into the neutral position and the transmission shifted
into neutral, but the engine continued at high rpm.

Thanks.


"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:9021be32eb500661e8a28743dcbae981@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Can you identify which of these was the case:
>
> The gearshift would not move into neutral,
>
> The gearshift moved into the neutral position, but the transmission
> remained in gear and the rpm's remained high, or
>
> The gearshift moved into the neutral position and the transmission shifted
> into neutral, but the engine continued at high rpm.
>
>
>
> The clutch is a friction disc which is the link between the engine and
> transmission. If the clutch becomes worn, it will not link the engine and
> transmission fully and engine rpm's will be high under load and the
> vehicle
> will not accelerate properly because the friction surface of the clutch
> slips on the flywheel rather than being held tightly.
>

 

In the first case, you'd be looking at an internal transmission problem or
a shift cable issue.

In the second, you'd be looking at an engine/fuel management issue.

I'd be tempted to lean toward the second, since you've received a check
engine lamp. Any word on what the code is or why the lamp is on?

 

I did reset the code by unplugging the power, and it is not on anymore.
so, if it was the engine/fuel management issue, should I do something about
it or just drive it ?
that was the first time and last time... I have been driving standard
stransmission car for long time, and this made me kind of scared to driver
someone else's car ....

Thanks for good informations.

Justin


"hyundaitech" <notpublic@not.public.com> wrote in message
news:f7a30624baffc8327ef4c8d27fb1e6ea@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> In the first case, you'd be looking at an internal transmission problem or
> a shift cable issue.
>
> In the second, you'd be looking at an engine/fuel management issue.
>
> I'd be tempted to lean toward the second, since you've received a check
> engine lamp. Any word on what the code is or why the lamp is on?
>

 

It's hard to say what was going on with no code data from the check engine
lamp. If the car is driving normally now, there's not much you can do
until the lamp comes back on or it does something abnormal again.