2001 Hyundai 4 cyl. Sonata steering problem
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 Hyundai 4 cyl. Sonata steering problem
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> hyundaitech wrote:
>>
>>> In most cases, there's significant extra effort required over manual
>>> steering. Any car I've ever driven with broken power steering was
>>> far too
>>> hard to steer. This is partly because power steering racks tend to
>>> have a
>>> different gearing ratio than manual racks.
>>
>> I suspect that a lot of the extra resistance is due to the fluid in
>> the system. Turning the wheel forces it through the valving, which is
>> hard to do without the assistance of the pump. It definitely seems
>> that there is something more than just the steering ratio involved,
>> since the steering effor is still quite high when the vehicle is in
>> motion. At 3.15 turns lock to lock, it's not that high anyway
>>
>> That's the reason I was wondering if draining the rack - so you'd only
>> be pushing air through the valves, rather than oil - would effectively
>> make it work like a manual rack. Have you ever tried anything like this?
>
> No, but I can't imagine it would work for long. With no oil in the
> rack, it is going to fail eventually from lack of lubrication.
After some digging, I actually found a few articles on this type of
modification. You're correct that you need to keep some fluid in the
rack, since that's what lubricates it. However, it CAN be disconnected
from the valve body on the steering column. On the rack, the ports on
either side of the piston can either be connected to each other or to a
small fluid reservoir via a "T" fitting.
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> hyundaitech wrote:
>>
>>> In most cases, there's significant extra effort required over manual
>>> steering. Any car I've ever driven with broken power steering was
>>> far too
>>> hard to steer. This is partly because power steering racks tend to
>>> have a
>>> different gearing ratio than manual racks.
>>
>> I suspect that a lot of the extra resistance is due to the fluid in
>> the system. Turning the wheel forces it through the valving, which is
>> hard to do without the assistance of the pump. It definitely seems
>> that there is something more than just the steering ratio involved,
>> since the steering effor is still quite high when the vehicle is in
>> motion. At 3.15 turns lock to lock, it's not that high anyway
>>
>> That's the reason I was wondering if draining the rack - so you'd only
>> be pushing air through the valves, rather than oil - would effectively
>> make it work like a manual rack. Have you ever tried anything like this?
>
> No, but I can't imagine it would work for long. With no oil in the
> rack, it is going to fail eventually from lack of lubrication.
After some digging, I actually found a few articles on this type of
modification. You're correct that you need to keep some fluid in the
rack, since that's what lubricates it. However, it CAN be disconnected
from the valve body on the steering column. On the rack, the ports on
either side of the piston can either be connected to each other or to a
small fluid reservoir via a "T" fitting.
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2001 Hyundai 4 cyl. Sonata steering problem
Matt Whiting wrote:
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> hyundaitech wrote:
>>
>>> In most cases, there's significant extra effort required over manual
>>> steering. Any car I've ever driven with broken power steering was
>>> far too
>>> hard to steer. This is partly because power steering racks tend to
>>> have a
>>> different gearing ratio than manual racks.
>>
>> I suspect that a lot of the extra resistance is due to the fluid in
>> the system. Turning the wheel forces it through the valving, which is
>> hard to do without the assistance of the pump. It definitely seems
>> that there is something more than just the steering ratio involved,
>> since the steering effor is still quite high when the vehicle is in
>> motion. At 3.15 turns lock to lock, it's not that high anyway
>>
>> That's the reason I was wondering if draining the rack - so you'd only
>> be pushing air through the valves, rather than oil - would effectively
>> make it work like a manual rack. Have you ever tried anything like this?
>
> No, but I can't imagine it would work for long. With no oil in the
> rack, it is going to fail eventually from lack of lubrication.
After some digging, I actually found a few articles on this type of
modification. You're correct that you need to keep some fluid in the
rack, since that's what lubricates it. However, it CAN be disconnected
from the valve body on the steering column. On the rack, the ports on
either side of the piston can either be connected to each other or to a
small fluid reservoir via a "T" fitting.
> Brian Nystrom wrote:
>
>> hyundaitech wrote:
>>
>>> In most cases, there's significant extra effort required over manual
>>> steering. Any car I've ever driven with broken power steering was
>>> far too
>>> hard to steer. This is partly because power steering racks tend to
>>> have a
>>> different gearing ratio than manual racks.
>>
>> I suspect that a lot of the extra resistance is due to the fluid in
>> the system. Turning the wheel forces it through the valving, which is
>> hard to do without the assistance of the pump. It definitely seems
>> that there is something more than just the steering ratio involved,
>> since the steering effor is still quite high when the vehicle is in
>> motion. At 3.15 turns lock to lock, it's not that high anyway
>>
>> That's the reason I was wondering if draining the rack - so you'd only
>> be pushing air through the valves, rather than oil - would effectively
>> make it work like a manual rack. Have you ever tried anything like this?
>
> No, but I can't imagine it would work for long. With no oil in the
> rack, it is going to fail eventually from lack of lubrication.
After some digging, I actually found a few articles on this type of
modification. You're correct that you need to keep some fluid in the
rack, since that's what lubricates it. However, it CAN be disconnected
from the valve body on the steering column. On the rack, the ports on
either side of the piston can either be connected to each other or to a
small fluid reservoir via a "T" fitting.
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