"Jafir Elkurd" <jafir@nospam.no.spam.hotpop.com> wrote in
news:10388ni7angdpaa@corp.supernews.com:

> ZC isn't vtec. They are twin cam (and single cam) 1.6l engines that
> were in 88-91 civics in Japan.
>
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns9493CB17D4350jyanikkuanet@204.117.192.21.. .
>> NOSPAMrex@REMOVEtxol.net (Rex B) wrote in
>> news:4033d651.198449820@news.txol.net:
>>
>> > On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 11:42:50 -0500, "JR Lomas" <jrl@engineer.nu>
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> >|The belt is not off by a tooth or two. I already have made sure of
>> >|that, I precisely aligned the marks on the sprockets. The car does
>> >|not hesitate or run bad while cold (feels like it has more power
>> >|when cold), the car has plenty of power once it gets passed
>> >|3000RPMs.
>> >
>> > Sounds to me like the VTEC is engaged all the time.
>> >
>>
>> I wonder if he changed the ECU to match the new engine?
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>> jyanik-at-kua.net
>
>

I wasn't the one to claim VTEC always engaged.That was "RexB".

But different motors ARE going to have different ECU programs.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik-at-kua.net

 

The engine doesn't have VTEC.

"Rex B" <NOSPAMrex@REMOVEtxol.net> wrote in message
news:4033d651.198449820@news.txol.net...
> On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 11:42:50 -0500, "JR Lomas" <jrl@engineer.nu> wrote:
>
> |The belt is not off by a tooth or two. I already have made sure of that,
I
> |precisely aligned the marks on the sprockets. The car does not hesitate
or
> |run bad while cold (feels like it has more power when cold), the car has
> |plenty of power once it gets passed 3000RPMs.
>
> Sounds to me like the VTEC is engaged all the time.
>
> |"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
> |news:40338295.1582C479@interbaun.com...
> |> JR Lomas wrote:
> |> >
> |> > I just made a ZC SOHC swap into my Honda Civic 94 LX 5-speed. The
car
> |has
> |> > now absolutely no low-end power even for a civic. My car stalls
going
> |up my
> |> > driveway on first unless I slip on the clutch at 3000RPM. I have
tested
> |the
> |> > engine compression and it is good and well whithin specifications. I
> |have
> |> > checked the timing and it is right at 15 degrees BTDC. Is there
> |something I
> |> > am missing?
> |> > Thanks for any help in advance,
> |> >
> |> > - JR
> |>
> |> ==================
> |>
> |> Ignition timing may look OK with a scope, but the cam timing can be out
> |> a tooth or two on the timing belt... Symptom: Hesitation, stalling at
> |> low end, runs terrible until completely warmed up, and even then no
> |> power.
> |>
> |> 'Curly'
> |>
> |>
> |> =================
> |> --
> |
> |
>
> Rex in Fort Worth

 

The engine doesn't have VTEC.

"Rex B" <NOSPAMrex@REMOVEtxol.net> wrote in message
news:4033d651.198449820@news.txol.net...
> On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 11:42:50 -0500, "JR Lomas" <jrl@engineer.nu> wrote:
>
> |The belt is not off by a tooth or two. I already have made sure of that,
I
> |precisely aligned the marks on the sprockets. The car does not hesitate
or
> |run bad while cold (feels like it has more power when cold), the car has
> |plenty of power once it gets passed 3000RPMs.
>
> Sounds to me like the VTEC is engaged all the time.
>
> |"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
> |news:40338295.1582C479@interbaun.com...
> |> JR Lomas wrote:
> |> >
> |> > I just made a ZC SOHC swap into my Honda Civic 94 LX 5-speed. The
car
> |has
> |> > now absolutely no low-end power even for a civic. My car stalls
going
> |up my
> |> > driveway on first unless I slip on the clutch at 3000RPM. I have
tested
> |the
> |> > engine compression and it is good and well whithin specifications. I
> |have
> |> > checked the timing and it is right at 15 degrees BTDC. Is there
> |something I
> |> > am missing?
> |> > Thanks for any help in advance,
> |> >
> |> > - JR
> |>
> |> ==================
> |>
> |> Ignition timing may look OK with a scope, but the cam timing can be out
> |> a tooth or two on the timing belt... Symptom: Hesitation, stalling at
> |> low end, runs terrible until completely warmed up, and even then no
> |> power.
> |>
> |> 'Curly'
> |>
> |>
> |> =================
> |> --
> |
> |
>
> Rex in Fort Worth

 

The engine doesn't have VTEC.

"Rex B" <NOSPAMrex@REMOVEtxol.net> wrote in message
news:4033d651.198449820@news.txol.net...
> On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 11:42:50 -0500, "JR Lomas" <jrl@engineer.nu> wrote:
>
> |The belt is not off by a tooth or two. I already have made sure of that,
I
> |precisely aligned the marks on the sprockets. The car does not hesitate
or
> |run bad while cold (feels like it has more power when cold), the car has
> |plenty of power once it gets passed 3000RPMs.
>
> Sounds to me like the VTEC is engaged all the time.
>
> |"'Curly Q. Links'" <motsco__@interbaun.com> wrote in message
> |news:40338295.1582C479@interbaun.com...
> |> JR Lomas wrote:
> |> >
> |> > I just made a ZC SOHC swap into my Honda Civic 94 LX 5-speed. The
car
> |has
> |> > now absolutely no low-end power even for a civic. My car stalls
going
> |up my
> |> > driveway on first unless I slip on the clutch at 3000RPM. I have
tested
> |the
> |> > engine compression and it is good and well whithin specifications. I
> |have
> |> > checked the timing and it is right at 15 degrees BTDC. Is there
> |something I
> |> > am missing?
> |> > Thanks for any help in advance,
> |> >
> |> > - JR
> |>
> |> ==================
> |>
> |> Ignition timing may look OK with a scope, but the cam timing can be out
> |> a tooth or two on the timing belt... Symptom: Hesitation, stalling at
> |> low end, runs terrible until completely warmed up, and even then no
> |> power.
> |>
> |> 'Curly'
> |>
> |>
> |> =================
> |> --
> |
> |
>
> Rex in Fort Worth

 

You are correct, I did not change the ECU. I am just using the LONG BLOCK
from the ZC everything else is still what was in my old engine (D15B7). I
would change the ECU; however, my car is OBD-I and the long block is a
OBD-0, hence I can't just get the ECU that came with the motor originally to
fit in my car and my harness. Any other thoughts on how to get it to work
properly (assuming it is the ECU program that causes the problem).
Thank you,

- JR

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9493CB17D4350jyanikkuanet@204.117.192.21.. .
> NOSPAMrex@REMOVEtxol.net (Rex B) wrote in
> news:4033d651.198449820@news.txol.net:
>
> > On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 11:42:50 -0500, "JR Lomas" <jrl@engineer.nu>
> > wrote:
> >
> >|The belt is not off by a tooth or two. I already have made sure of
> >|that, I precisely aligned the marks on the sprockets. The car does
> >|not hesitate or run bad while cold (feels like it has more power when
> >|cold), the car has plenty of power once it gets passed 3000RPMs.
> >
> > Sounds to me like the VTEC is engaged all the time.
> >
>
> I wonder if he changed the ECU to match the new engine?
>
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik-at-kua.net

 

You are correct, I did not change the ECU. I am just using the LONG BLOCK
from the ZC everything else is still what was in my old engine (D15B7). I
would change the ECU; however, my car is OBD-I and the long block is a
OBD-0, hence I can't just get the ECU that came with the motor originally to
fit in my car and my harness. Any other thoughts on how to get it to work
properly (assuming it is the ECU program that causes the problem).
Thank you,

- JR

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9493CB17D4350jyanikkuanet@204.117.192.21.. .
> NOSPAMrex@REMOVEtxol.net (Rex B) wrote in
> news:4033d651.198449820@news.txol.net:
>
> > On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 11:42:50 -0500, "JR Lomas" <jrl@engineer.nu>
> > wrote:
> >
> >|The belt is not off by a tooth or two. I already have made sure of
> >|that, I precisely aligned the marks on the sprockets. The car does
> >|not hesitate or run bad while cold (feels like it has more power when
> >|cold), the car has plenty of power once it gets passed 3000RPMs.
> >
> > Sounds to me like the VTEC is engaged all the time.
> >
>
> I wonder if he changed the ECU to match the new engine?
>
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik-at-kua.net

 

You are correct, I did not change the ECU. I am just using the LONG BLOCK
from the ZC everything else is still what was in my old engine (D15B7). I
would change the ECU; however, my car is OBD-I and the long block is a
OBD-0, hence I can't just get the ECU that came with the motor originally to
fit in my car and my harness. Any other thoughts on how to get it to work
properly (assuming it is the ECU program that causes the problem).
Thank you,

- JR

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9493CB17D4350jyanikkuanet@204.117.192.21.. .
> NOSPAMrex@REMOVEtxol.net (Rex B) wrote in
> news:4033d651.198449820@news.txol.net:
>
> > On Wed, 18 Feb 2004 11:42:50 -0500, "JR Lomas" <jrl@engineer.nu>
> > wrote:
> >
> >|The belt is not off by a tooth or two. I already have made sure of
> >|that, I precisely aligned the marks on the sprockets. The car does
> >|not hesitate or run bad while cold (feels like it has more power when
> >|cold), the car has plenty of power once it gets passed 3000RPMs.
> >
> > Sounds to me like the VTEC is engaged all the time.
> >
>
> I wonder if he changed the ECU to match the new engine?
>
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik-at-kua.net

 

"sdlomi2" <sdlomi2spamfree@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<1037kt28tioi21a@corp.supernews.com>...
> "JR Lomas" <jrl@engineer.nu> wrote in message
> news:1uWdncPFSomQC67dRVn-uQ@comcast.com...
> > The belt is not off by a tooth or two. I already have made sure of that, I
> > precisely aligned the marks on the sprockets. The car does not hesitate
> or
> > run bad while cold (feels like it has more power when cold), the car has
> > plenty of power once it gets passed 3000RPMs.
>
> Double check the procedure for and actual measurement of the timing and
> the called-for specs. for that particular combo. Initial timing being low
> could kill initial low-end power. **Caution**Initial timing being HIGH
> could burn a piston in a heartbeat!
> HTH & good luck. s

You guys were right all along... the timing belt was off by three
teeth... no wonder there was no power. The reason it was off, is that
I used the same procedure for the timing as for the old engine, turns
out the ZC has different alignment marks. Well anyway, the motor is
running great now, thank you everyone for your help.

- JR

 

"sdlomi2" <sdlomi2spamfree@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<1037kt28tioi21a@corp.supernews.com>...
> "JR Lomas" <jrl@engineer.nu> wrote in message
> news:1uWdncPFSomQC67dRVn-uQ@comcast.com...
> > The belt is not off by a tooth or two. I already have made sure of that, I
> > precisely aligned the marks on the sprockets. The car does not hesitate
> or
> > run bad while cold (feels like it has more power when cold), the car has
> > plenty of power once it gets passed 3000RPMs.
>
> Double check the procedure for and actual measurement of the timing and
> the called-for specs. for that particular combo. Initial timing being low
> could kill initial low-end power. **Caution**Initial timing being HIGH
> could burn a piston in a heartbeat!
> HTH & good luck. s

You guys were right all along... the timing belt was off by three
teeth... no wonder there was no power. The reason it was off, is that
I used the same procedure for the timing as for the old engine, turns
out the ZC has different alignment marks. Well anyway, the motor is
running great now, thank you everyone for your help.

- JR

 

"sdlomi2" <sdlomi2spamfree@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<1037kt28tioi21a@corp.supernews.com>...
> "JR Lomas" <jrl@engineer.nu> wrote in message
> news:1uWdncPFSomQC67dRVn-uQ@comcast.com...
> > The belt is not off by a tooth or two. I already have made sure of that, I
> > precisely aligned the marks on the sprockets. The car does not hesitate
> or
> > run bad while cold (feels like it has more power when cold), the car has
> > plenty of power once it gets passed 3000RPMs.
>
> Double check the procedure for and actual measurement of the timing and
> the called-for specs. for that particular combo. Initial timing being low
> could kill initial low-end power. **Caution**Initial timing being HIGH
> could burn a piston in a heartbeat!
> HTH & good luck. s

You guys were right all along... the timing belt was off by three
teeth... no wonder there was no power. The reason it was off, is that
I used the same procedure for the timing as for the old engine, turns
out the ZC has different alignment marks. Well anyway, the motor is
running great now, thank you everyone for your help.

- JR

 

Wasn't trying to imply that YOU had said that. I was just jumping in
somewhere along the way. There are companies that will remap an ECU to
match the ZC motor (no real need to do this if using the single cam ZC in a
D16 car, so I hear). Also, with the 92+ civics, I think you can buy an
aftermarket ECU that you can program yourself, but they are pricey.


> I wasn't the one to claim VTEC always engaged.That was "RexB".
>
> But different motors ARE going to have different ECU programs.
>

 

Wasn't trying to imply that YOU had said that. I was just jumping in
somewhere along the way. There are companies that will remap an ECU to
match the ZC motor (no real need to do this if using the single cam ZC in a
D16 car, so I hear). Also, with the 92+ civics, I think you can buy an
aftermarket ECU that you can program yourself, but they are pricey.


> I wasn't the one to claim VTEC always engaged.That was "RexB".
>
> But different motors ARE going to have different ECU programs.
>

 

Wasn't trying to imply that YOU had said that. I was just jumping in
somewhere along the way. There are companies that will remap an ECU to
match the ZC motor (no real need to do this if using the single cam ZC in a
D16 car, so I hear). Also, with the 92+ civics, I think you can buy an
aftermarket ECU that you can program yourself, but they are pricey.


> I wasn't the one to claim VTEC always engaged.That was "RexB".
>
> But different motors ARE going to have different ECU programs.
>