I had an old geo prizm that was 14 years old and the shine wore off.
My winshield jets leak when I use them and within a year I had a very
ugly white stripe down my hood.

Kevin McMurtrie <mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote in message news:<mcmurtri-CAA77E.21520528012004@corp-radius.supernews.com>...
> In article <z%ERb.267$bW1.10752@eagle.america.net>,
> "J. Perry" <j_perry@musicians.net> wrote:
>
> > "Kevin McMurtrie" <mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote in message
> > news:mcmurtri-8856AD.00560027012004@corp-radius.supernews.com...
> > > In article <bffabe31.0401260601.228664c0@posting.google.com >,
> > > acctforjunk@yahoo.com (Im anonymous) wrote:
> > >
> > > > Has anyone heard about this before? Especially the red stuff they
> > > > call, I believe, "Liquid Fire".
> > >
> > > Check the ingredients. Alcohol isn't good for the paint. It doesn't
> > > dissolve the paint but it soaks in and softens it, making it very easy
> > > to damage. The heavier alcohols are worse because they stick around
> > > longer.
> >
> > Do you know whether or not Rain-X's De-Icer Windshield Washer Fluid will
> > soften paint--or damage it any way?
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > J. Perry
> >
> >
>
> The ingredients are probably on the saftey are of the label. Methanol
> and the various glycols are bad. Isopropanol and ethanol evaporate too
> quickly to matter.
>
> Alcohols are mostly used as anti-freeze. One that's not freeze
> resistant is less likely to have alcohol. Strong concentrates are
> diluted with plenty of water.
>
> My favorite summer wiper fluid is a couple of drops of hand-wash dish
> detergent in purified water. There's no mess or streaking on hot, dry
> days.
>
> My favorite winter wiper fluid is a spoonful of powdered laundry
> detergent per gallon of water. It causes water to stick to the
> windshield in a continuous and smooth film. There's no haze after the
> wiper blades go by. It unfortunately makes a chalky mess if it dries on
> the car. The chalk doesn't seem to hurt the paint but maybe you don't
> want to experiment on a nice car.

 

I had an old geo prizm that was 14 years old and the shine wore off.
My winshield jets leak when I use them and within a year I had a very
ugly white stripe down my hood.

Kevin McMurtrie <mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote in message news:<mcmurtri-CAA77E.21520528012004@corp-radius.supernews.com>...
> In article <z%ERb.267$bW1.10752@eagle.america.net>,
> "J. Perry" <j_perry@musicians.net> wrote:
>
> > "Kevin McMurtrie" <mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote in message
> > news:mcmurtri-8856AD.00560027012004@corp-radius.supernews.com...
> > > In article <bffabe31.0401260601.228664c0@posting.google.com >,
> > > acctforjunk@yahoo.com (Im anonymous) wrote:
> > >
> > > > Has anyone heard about this before? Especially the red stuff they
> > > > call, I believe, "Liquid Fire".
> > >
> > > Check the ingredients. Alcohol isn't good for the paint. It doesn't
> > > dissolve the paint but it soaks in and softens it, making it very easy
> > > to damage. The heavier alcohols are worse because they stick around
> > > longer.
> >
> > Do you know whether or not Rain-X's De-Icer Windshield Washer Fluid will
> > soften paint--or damage it any way?
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > J. Perry
> >
> >
>
> The ingredients are probably on the saftey are of the label. Methanol
> and the various glycols are bad. Isopropanol and ethanol evaporate too
> quickly to matter.
>
> Alcohols are mostly used as anti-freeze. One that's not freeze
> resistant is less likely to have alcohol. Strong concentrates are
> diluted with plenty of water.
>
> My favorite summer wiper fluid is a couple of drops of hand-wash dish
> detergent in purified water. There's no mess or streaking on hot, dry
> days.
>
> My favorite winter wiper fluid is a spoonful of powdered laundry
> detergent per gallon of water. It causes water to stick to the
> windshield in a continuous and smooth film. There's no haze after the
> wiper blades go by. It unfortunately makes a chalky mess if it dries on
> the car. The chalk doesn't seem to hurt the paint but maybe you don't
> want to experiment on a nice car.

 

I had an old geo prizm that was 14 years old and the shine wore off.
My winshield jets leak when I use them and within a year I had a very
ugly white stripe down my hood.

Kevin McMurtrie <mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote in message news:<mcmurtri-CAA77E.21520528012004@corp-radius.supernews.com>...
> In article <z%ERb.267$bW1.10752@eagle.america.net>,
> "J. Perry" <j_perry@musicians.net> wrote:
>
> > "Kevin McMurtrie" <mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote in message
> > news:mcmurtri-8856AD.00560027012004@corp-radius.supernews.com...
> > > In article <bffabe31.0401260601.228664c0@posting.google.com >,
> > > acctforjunk@yahoo.com (Im anonymous) wrote:
> > >
> > > > Has anyone heard about this before? Especially the red stuff they
> > > > call, I believe, "Liquid Fire".
> > >
> > > Check the ingredients. Alcohol isn't good for the paint. It doesn't
> > > dissolve the paint but it soaks in and softens it, making it very easy
> > > to damage. The heavier alcohols are worse because they stick around
> > > longer.
> >
> > Do you know whether or not Rain-X's De-Icer Windshield Washer Fluid will
> > soften paint--or damage it any way?
> >
> > Thanks in advance!
> >
> > J. Perry
> >
> >
>
> The ingredients are probably on the saftey are of the label. Methanol
> and the various glycols are bad. Isopropanol and ethanol evaporate too
> quickly to matter.
>
> Alcohols are mostly used as anti-freeze. One that's not freeze
> resistant is less likely to have alcohol. Strong concentrates are
> diluted with plenty of water.
>
> My favorite summer wiper fluid is a couple of drops of hand-wash dish
> detergent in purified water. There's no mess or streaking on hot, dry
> days.
>
> My favorite winter wiper fluid is a spoonful of powdered laundry
> detergent per gallon of water. It causes water to stick to the
> windshield in a continuous and smooth film. There's no haze after the
> wiper blades go by. It unfortunately makes a chalky mess if it dries on
> the car. The chalk doesn't seem to hurt the paint but maybe you don't
> want to experiment on a nice car.

 

In article <bffabe31.0401290519.2a0753c@posting.google.com> ,
acctforjunk@yahoo.com (Im anonymous) wrote:

> Kevin McMurtrie <mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote in message
> news:<mcmurtri-CAA77E.21520528012004@corp-radius.supernews.com>...
> > >
> > The ingredients are probably on the saftey are of the label. Methanol
> > and the various glycols are bad. Isopropanol and ethanol evaporate too
> > quickly to matter.
> >
> > Alcohols are mostly used as anti-freeze. One that's not freeze
> > resistant is less likely to have alcohol. Strong concentrates are
> > diluted with plenty of water.
> >
> > My favorite summer wiper fluid is a couple of drops of hand-wash dish
> > detergent in purified water. There's no mess or streaking on hot, dry
> > days.
> >
> > My favorite winter wiper fluid is a spoonful of powdered laundry
> > detergent per gallon of water. It causes water to stick to the
> > windshield in a continuous and smooth film. There's no haze after the
> > wiper blades go by. It unfortunately makes a chalky mess if it dries on
> > the car. The chalk doesn't seem to hurt the paint but maybe you don't
> > want to experiment on a nice car.
>
> You must live in a warmer climate. I'm pretty sure your winter wiper
> fluid formula would freeze and bust all the wiper components if I used
> it here.

Yep. The car doesn't see freezing temperatures unless I go on a long
drive. In that case I add some rubbing alcohol. It does see
temperatures so hot that the washer fluid steams off in a few seconds,
hence the need for purified water in the summer.

 

In article <bffabe31.0401290519.2a0753c@posting.google.com> ,
acctforjunk@yahoo.com (Im anonymous) wrote:

> Kevin McMurtrie <mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote in message
> news:<mcmurtri-CAA77E.21520528012004@corp-radius.supernews.com>...
> > >
> > The ingredients are probably on the saftey are of the label. Methanol
> > and the various glycols are bad. Isopropanol and ethanol evaporate too
> > quickly to matter.
> >
> > Alcohols are mostly used as anti-freeze. One that's not freeze
> > resistant is less likely to have alcohol. Strong concentrates are
> > diluted with plenty of water.
> >
> > My favorite summer wiper fluid is a couple of drops of hand-wash dish
> > detergent in purified water. There's no mess or streaking on hot, dry
> > days.
> >
> > My favorite winter wiper fluid is a spoonful of powdered laundry
> > detergent per gallon of water. It causes water to stick to the
> > windshield in a continuous and smooth film. There's no haze after the
> > wiper blades go by. It unfortunately makes a chalky mess if it dries on
> > the car. The chalk doesn't seem to hurt the paint but maybe you don't
> > want to experiment on a nice car.
>
> You must live in a warmer climate. I'm pretty sure your winter wiper
> fluid formula would freeze and bust all the wiper components if I used
> it here.

Yep. The car doesn't see freezing temperatures unless I go on a long
drive. In that case I add some rubbing alcohol. It does see
temperatures so hot that the washer fluid steams off in a few seconds,
hence the need for purified water in the summer.

 

In article <bffabe31.0401290519.2a0753c@posting.google.com> ,
acctforjunk@yahoo.com (Im anonymous) wrote:

> Kevin McMurtrie <mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote in message
> news:<mcmurtri-CAA77E.21520528012004@corp-radius.supernews.com>...
> > >
> > The ingredients are probably on the saftey are of the label. Methanol
> > and the various glycols are bad. Isopropanol and ethanol evaporate too
> > quickly to matter.
> >
> > Alcohols are mostly used as anti-freeze. One that's not freeze
> > resistant is less likely to have alcohol. Strong concentrates are
> > diluted with plenty of water.
> >
> > My favorite summer wiper fluid is a couple of drops of hand-wash dish
> > detergent in purified water. There's no mess or streaking on hot, dry
> > days.
> >
> > My favorite winter wiper fluid is a spoonful of powdered laundry
> > detergent per gallon of water. It causes water to stick to the
> > windshield in a continuous and smooth film. There's no haze after the
> > wiper blades go by. It unfortunately makes a chalky mess if it dries on
> > the car. The chalk doesn't seem to hurt the paint but maybe you don't
> > want to experiment on a nice car.
>
> You must live in a warmer climate. I'm pretty sure your winter wiper
> fluid formula would freeze and bust all the wiper components if I used
> it here.

Yep. The car doesn't see freezing temperatures unless I go on a long
drive. In that case I add some rubbing alcohol. It does see
temperatures so hot that the washer fluid steams off in a few seconds,
hence the need for purified water in the summer.

 

In article <bffabe31.0401290519.2a0753c@posting.google.com> ,
acctforjunk@yahoo.com (Im anonymous) wrote:

> Kevin McMurtrie <mcmurtri@dslextreme.com> wrote in message
> news:<mcmurtri-CAA77E.21520528012004@corp-radius.supernews.com>...
> > >
> > The ingredients are probably on the saftey are of the label. Methanol
> > and the various glycols are bad. Isopropanol and ethanol evaporate too
> > quickly to matter.
> >
> > Alcohols are mostly used as anti-freeze. One that's not freeze
> > resistant is less likely to have alcohol. Strong concentrates are
> > diluted with plenty of water.
> >
> > My favorite summer wiper fluid is a couple of drops of hand-wash dish
> > detergent in purified water. There's no mess or streaking on hot, dry
> > days.
> >
> > My favorite winter wiper fluid is a spoonful of powdered laundry
> > detergent per gallon of water. It causes water to stick to the
> > windshield in a continuous and smooth film. There's no haze after the
> > wiper blades go by. It unfortunately makes a chalky mess if it dries on
> > the car. The chalk doesn't seem to hurt the paint but maybe you don't
> > want to experiment on a nice car.
>
> You must live in a warmer climate. I'm pretty sure your winter wiper
> fluid formula would freeze and bust all the wiper components if I used
> it here.

Yep. The car doesn't see freezing temperatures unless I go on a long
drive. In that case I add some rubbing alcohol. It does see
temperatures so hot that the washer fluid steams off in a few seconds,
hence the need for purified water in the summer.

 

My 1988 Honda Accord DX has 16 years and over 225,000 miles on it. It has
never run on synthetic. It has never needed engine repair. If you think
you need synthetic to make your car last and it isn't souped up (riced out)
then you should not have wasted your money on your car. I am not against
synthetic in any way. It seems to be great BUT in order to get rid of the
acid and carbon build up from blow-by, etc., I bet you will be changing your
synthetic somewhere between 3000 and 5000 miles anyway. So is it really
worth the cost when regular oil lasts that long these days and in these
cars? Engines do not last forever either way.

Aron



"Cosmin N." <no@email.com> wrote in message
news:83gRb.2961$9Ce1.2437@news04.bloor.is.net.cabl e.rogers.com...
> If you plan to keep the car a while, you should definitely use synthetic
> oil. I've been using Castrol Synthetic for the past 4 years (since I
> purchased it) in my 94 Accord EXR 2.2 4cyl, and it just passed the
> emissions test with flying colours. One note, I've been changing the oil
> every 6000km, not the 10000km usually recommended with synthetics.
>
> Cosmin
>
> Im anonymous wrote:
>
> > Has anyone heard about this before? Especially the red stuff they
> > call, I believe, "Liquid Fire".
> >
> > One more thing: I'm considering using synthetic in my 3.0L V6 after
> > the 5000 mi break in period. Brand recommendations, thoughts, good
> > idea bad idea????

 

My 1988 Honda Accord DX has 16 years and over 225,000 miles on it. It has
never run on synthetic. It has never needed engine repair. If you think
you need synthetic to make your car last and it isn't souped up (riced out)
then you should not have wasted your money on your car. I am not against
synthetic in any way. It seems to be great BUT in order to get rid of the
acid and carbon build up from blow-by, etc., I bet you will be changing your
synthetic somewhere between 3000 and 5000 miles anyway. So is it really
worth the cost when regular oil lasts that long these days and in these
cars? Engines do not last forever either way.

Aron



"Cosmin N." <no@email.com> wrote in message
news:83gRb.2961$9Ce1.2437@news04.bloor.is.net.cabl e.rogers.com...
> If you plan to keep the car a while, you should definitely use synthetic
> oil. I've been using Castrol Synthetic for the past 4 years (since I
> purchased it) in my 94 Accord EXR 2.2 4cyl, and it just passed the
> emissions test with flying colours. One note, I've been changing the oil
> every 6000km, not the 10000km usually recommended with synthetics.
>
> Cosmin
>
> Im anonymous wrote:
>
> > Has anyone heard about this before? Especially the red stuff they
> > call, I believe, "Liquid Fire".
> >
> > One more thing: I'm considering using synthetic in my 3.0L V6 after
> > the 5000 mi break in period. Brand recommendations, thoughts, good
> > idea bad idea????

 

My 1988 Honda Accord DX has 16 years and over 225,000 miles on it. It has
never run on synthetic. It has never needed engine repair. If you think
you need synthetic to make your car last and it isn't souped up (riced out)
then you should not have wasted your money on your car. I am not against
synthetic in any way. It seems to be great BUT in order to get rid of the
acid and carbon build up from blow-by, etc., I bet you will be changing your
synthetic somewhere between 3000 and 5000 miles anyway. So is it really
worth the cost when regular oil lasts that long these days and in these
cars? Engines do not last forever either way.

Aron



"Cosmin N." <no@email.com> wrote in message
news:83gRb.2961$9Ce1.2437@news04.bloor.is.net.cabl e.rogers.com...
> If you plan to keep the car a while, you should definitely use synthetic
> oil. I've been using Castrol Synthetic for the past 4 years (since I
> purchased it) in my 94 Accord EXR 2.2 4cyl, and it just passed the
> emissions test with flying colours. One note, I've been changing the oil
> every 6000km, not the 10000km usually recommended with synthetics.
>
> Cosmin
>
> Im anonymous wrote:
>
> > Has anyone heard about this before? Especially the red stuff they
> > call, I believe, "Liquid Fire".
> >
> > One more thing: I'm considering using synthetic in my 3.0L V6 after
> > the 5000 mi break in period. Brand recommendations, thoughts, good
> > idea bad idea????

 

yes I do think the cost is worth it. There is not a category of testing in
which dino oils outperforms synthetic in any way. Synthetic oil is superior
without a doubt and since synthetic oil doesn't sludge up or breakdown like
regular oil it can be ran longer than standard dino oil. It flows better at
lower temperatures and withstands higher temperatures than standard oil so
it isn't going to breakdown in the hotter states while driving your vehicle.
I am glad you got your mileage out of your car though.

CaptainKrunch


"Aron" <drenkav1912@earthlink.ten> wrote in message
news:_6MYb.9961$W74.7517@newsread1.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
> My 1988 Honda Accord DX has 16 years and over 225,000 miles on it. It
has
> never run on synthetic. It has never needed engine repair. If you think
> you need synthetic to make your car last and it isn't souped up (riced
out)
> then you should not have wasted your money on your car. I am not against
> synthetic in any way. It seems to be great BUT in order to get rid of the
> acid and carbon build up from blow-by, etc., I bet you will be changing
your
> synthetic somewhere between 3000 and 5000 miles anyway. So is it really
> worth the cost when regular oil lasts that long these days and in these
> cars? Engines do not last forever either way.
>
> Aron
>
>
>
> "Cosmin N." <no@email.com> wrote in message
> news:83gRb.2961$9Ce1.2437@news04.bloor.is.net.cabl e.rogers.com...
> > If you plan to keep the car a while, you should definitely use synthetic
> > oil. I've been using Castrol Synthetic for the past 4 years (since I
> > purchased it) in my 94 Accord EXR 2.2 4cyl, and it just passed the
> > emissions test with flying colours. One note, I've been changing the oil
> > every 6000km, not the 10000km usually recommended with synthetics.
> >
> > Cosmin
> >
> > Im anonymous wrote:
> >
> > > Has anyone heard about this before? Especially the red stuff they
> > > call, I believe, "Liquid Fire".
> > >
> > > One more thing: I'm considering using synthetic in my 3.0L V6 after
> > > the 5000 mi break in period. Brand recommendations, thoughts, good
> > > idea bad idea????
>
>

 

yes I do think the cost is worth it. There is not a category of testing in
which dino oils outperforms synthetic in any way. Synthetic oil is superior
without a doubt and since synthetic oil doesn't sludge up or breakdown like
regular oil it can be ran longer than standard dino oil. It flows better at
lower temperatures and withstands higher temperatures than standard oil so
it isn't going to breakdown in the hotter states while driving your vehicle.
I am glad you got your mileage out of your car though.

CaptainKrunch


"Aron" <drenkav1912@earthlink.ten> wrote in message
news:_6MYb.9961$W74.7517@newsread1.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
> My 1988 Honda Accord DX has 16 years and over 225,000 miles on it. It
has
> never run on synthetic. It has never needed engine repair. If you think
> you need synthetic to make your car last and it isn't souped up (riced
out)
> then you should not have wasted your money on your car. I am not against
> synthetic in any way. It seems to be great BUT in order to get rid of the
> acid and carbon build up from blow-by, etc., I bet you will be changing
your
> synthetic somewhere between 3000 and 5000 miles anyway. So is it really
> worth the cost when regular oil lasts that long these days and in these
> cars? Engines do not last forever either way.
>
> Aron
>
>
>
> "Cosmin N." <no@email.com> wrote in message
> news:83gRb.2961$9Ce1.2437@news04.bloor.is.net.cabl e.rogers.com...
> > If you plan to keep the car a while, you should definitely use synthetic
> > oil. I've been using Castrol Synthetic for the past 4 years (since I
> > purchased it) in my 94 Accord EXR 2.2 4cyl, and it just passed the
> > emissions test with flying colours. One note, I've been changing the oil
> > every 6000km, not the 10000km usually recommended with synthetics.
> >
> > Cosmin
> >
> > Im anonymous wrote:
> >
> > > Has anyone heard about this before? Especially the red stuff they
> > > call, I believe, "Liquid Fire".
> > >
> > > One more thing: I'm considering using synthetic in my 3.0L V6 after
> > > the 5000 mi break in period. Brand recommendations, thoughts, good
> > > idea bad idea????
>
>

 

yes I do think the cost is worth it. There is not a category of testing in
which dino oils outperforms synthetic in any way. Synthetic oil is superior
without a doubt and since synthetic oil doesn't sludge up or breakdown like
regular oil it can be ran longer than standard dino oil. It flows better at
lower temperatures and withstands higher temperatures than standard oil so
it isn't going to breakdown in the hotter states while driving your vehicle.
I am glad you got your mileage out of your car though.

CaptainKrunch


"Aron" <drenkav1912@earthlink.ten> wrote in message
news:_6MYb.9961$W74.7517@newsread1.news.atl.earthl ink.net...
> My 1988 Honda Accord DX has 16 years and over 225,000 miles on it. It
has
> never run on synthetic. It has never needed engine repair. If you think
> you need synthetic to make your car last and it isn't souped up (riced
out)
> then you should not have wasted your money on your car. I am not against
> synthetic in any way. It seems to be great BUT in order to get rid of the
> acid and carbon build up from blow-by, etc., I bet you will be changing
your
> synthetic somewhere between 3000 and 5000 miles anyway. So is it really
> worth the cost when regular oil lasts that long these days and in these
> cars? Engines do not last forever either way.
>
> Aron
>
>
>
> "Cosmin N." <no@email.com> wrote in message
> news:83gRb.2961$9Ce1.2437@news04.bloor.is.net.cabl e.rogers.com...
> > If you plan to keep the car a while, you should definitely use synthetic
> > oil. I've been using Castrol Synthetic for the past 4 years (since I
> > purchased it) in my 94 Accord EXR 2.2 4cyl, and it just passed the
> > emissions test with flying colours. One note, I've been changing the oil
> > every 6000km, not the 10000km usually recommended with synthetics.
> >
> > Cosmin
> >
> > Im anonymous wrote:
> >
> > > Has anyone heard about this before? Especially the red stuff they
> > > call, I believe, "Liquid Fire".
> > >
> > > One more thing: I'm considering using synthetic in my 3.0L V6 after
> > > the 5000 mi break in period. Brand recommendations, thoughts, good
> > > idea bad idea????
>
>

 

I'll second Aron's opinion. I traded in a 1987 Prelude 2.0Si with
310,000mi on the engine and transmission. It used Castrol dino oil
from day one. The engine was still strong and I didn't have to add oil
between oil changes. It would consume about a quart in 4000miles.
Fluids were changed more often that what was recommended. The only
reason I got rid of that car was because I live in the northeast and
roadsalt made it an eyesore and structurally unsafe otherwise I would
have gone for another 90,000mi.

I've used synthetic once in a motorcycle. It ripped apart the engine.
I won't ever touch the stuff again.


"Aron" <drenkav1912@earthlink.ten> wrote in message news:<_6MYb.9961$W74.7517@newsread1.news.atl.earth link.net>...
> My 1988 Honda Accord DX has 16 years and over 225,000 miles on it. It has
> never run on synthetic. It has never needed engine repair. If you think
> you need synthetic to make your car last and it isn't souped up (riced out)
> then you should not have wasted your money on your car. I am not against
> synthetic in any way. It seems to be great BUT in order to get rid of the
> acid and carbon build up from blow-by, etc., I bet you will be changing your
> synthetic somewhere between 3000 and 5000 miles anyway. So is it really
> worth the cost when regular oil lasts that long these days and in these
> cars? Engines do not last forever either way.
>
> Aron
>
>
>
> "Cosmin N." <no@email.com> wrote in message
> news:83gRb.2961$9Ce1.2437@news04.bloor.is.net.cabl e.rogers.com...
> > If you plan to keep the car a while, you should definitely use synthetic
> > oil. I've been using Castrol Synthetic for the past 4 years (since I
> > purchased it) in my 94 Accord EXR 2.2 4cyl, and it just passed the
> > emissions test with flying colours. One note, I've been changing the oil
> > every 6000km, not the 10000km usually recommended with synthetics.
> >
> > Cosmin
> >
> > Im anonymous wrote:
> >
> > > Has anyone heard about this before? Especially the red stuff they
> > > call, I believe, "Liquid Fire".
> > >
> > > One more thing: I'm considering using synthetic in my 3.0L V6 after
> > > the 5000 mi break in period. Brand recommendations, thoughts, good
> > > idea bad idea????

 

I'll second Aron's opinion. I traded in a 1987 Prelude 2.0Si with
310,000mi on the engine and transmission. It used Castrol dino oil
from day one. The engine was still strong and I didn't have to add oil
between oil changes. It would consume about a quart in 4000miles.
Fluids were changed more often that what was recommended. The only
reason I got rid of that car was because I live in the northeast and
roadsalt made it an eyesore and structurally unsafe otherwise I would
have gone for another 90,000mi.

I've used synthetic once in a motorcycle. It ripped apart the engine.
I won't ever touch the stuff again.


"Aron" <drenkav1912@earthlink.ten> wrote in message news:<_6MYb.9961$W74.7517@newsread1.news.atl.earth link.net>...
> My 1988 Honda Accord DX has 16 years and over 225,000 miles on it. It has
> never run on synthetic. It has never needed engine repair. If you think
> you need synthetic to make your car last and it isn't souped up (riced out)
> then you should not have wasted your money on your car. I am not against
> synthetic in any way. It seems to be great BUT in order to get rid of the
> acid and carbon build up from blow-by, etc., I bet you will be changing your
> synthetic somewhere between 3000 and 5000 miles anyway. So is it really
> worth the cost when regular oil lasts that long these days and in these
> cars? Engines do not last forever either way.
>
> Aron
>
>
>
> "Cosmin N." <no@email.com> wrote in message
> news:83gRb.2961$9Ce1.2437@news04.bloor.is.net.cabl e.rogers.com...
> > If you plan to keep the car a while, you should definitely use synthetic
> > oil. I've been using Castrol Synthetic for the past 4 years (since I
> > purchased it) in my 94 Accord EXR 2.2 4cyl, and it just passed the
> > emissions test with flying colours. One note, I've been changing the oil
> > every 6000km, not the 10000km usually recommended with synthetics.
> >
> > Cosmin
> >
> > Im anonymous wrote:
> >
> > > Has anyone heard about this before? Especially the red stuff they
> > > call, I believe, "Liquid Fire".
> > >
> > > One more thing: I'm considering using synthetic in my 3.0L V6 after
> > > the 5000 mi break in period. Brand recommendations, thoughts, good
> > > idea bad idea????