I just got a rock chip in my winshield, directly in my line of sight on
my 97 Honda Accord. According to California law, I can't patch it, I
must replace the winshield.
I got a quote from a local glass shop chain.
The cost is only $180 including labor.
This seems way too inexpensive (although perhaps prices have dropped in
recent years.)
I am almost sure the the replacement is not OEM.
Is it important to use OEM replacements? Not only for safety reasons
but for quality reasons as well.
Also, the shop told me I can drive away in about 1/2 hour. This seems
fishy to me as I would believe that the adhesives need to cure
properly. I would appreciate any advice.
Thanks

 

On 27 Oct 2005 15:34:24 -0700 techman41973@yahoo.com wrote:

> I got a quote from a local glass shop chain.
> The cost is only $180 including labor.
> This seems way too inexpensive (although perhaps prices have dropped
> in recent years.)
> I am almost sure the the replacement is not OEM.
> Is it important to use OEM replacements? Not only for safety reasons
> but for quality reasons as well.
> Also, the shop told me I can drive away in about 1/2 hour. This seems
> fishy to me as I would believe that the adhesives need to cure
> properly. I would appreciate any advice.

Here's my experience with windshields, 'old style'
and new style.

A gasket (moldable yet firm goo) is layed around the
perimeter of the windshield deck. The new windshield
is layed on top of this gasket and also rests against
alignment clips. Then the chrome (or colored) molding
is pressed on to hide the channel.

You're ready to drive off.

About six months ago, I had a windshield replaced on
my truck. A rubber gasket (it's grooved on the ID
of the gasket) is wrapped around the windshield, which
forms a rubber 'ring' around the windshield, then
the windshield with this rubber gasket ring is
pressed into the winshield channel.

Ready to drive RIGHT NOW.

No 'adhesives' involved in either of those two methods.

I paid $80 for a brand-new windshield, OEM quality
and then paid $70 for installation.

--
remove MYSHOES to email

 

On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 17:46:48 -0500 mst <mstg@linuxMYSHOESmail.org>
wrote:

> I paid $80 for a brand-new windshield, OEM quality
> and then paid $70 for installation.

Forgot to mention: the first windshield I got from
a junkyard, no chips, etc for $40 and a friend who
is a body man, installed it for me in 30 minutes.
(no cost except beer).

--
remove MYSHOES to email

 

I checked with the Buick dealership here earlier, and they said they
outsource EVERYTHING:

It is common to walk away for $100 on some windshields.

You will likely be okay on the one you described.

 

I would be interested to hear opinions on "OEM glass" as well.

A few weeks ago my 91 Civic also acquired a bad peck and crack from a rock.
This was the third one the windshield had acqired, and by far much worse
than the others. I too was amazed when I found a company (Safelite) that
would come to my house and install a new one (in less than an hour) for only
$221. After I had it installed, the technician similarly told me I could
drive in an hour.

Unfortunately, ten days later another rock hit the windshield (passenger
side) and it now has a ten inch crack in it. I called the company and asked
if there were a higher quality glass I could have had installed. Its
representative said no.

I have been thinking the new windshield's crack is by far more due to the
fact that I drive in an area overwhelmingly populated by aspiring yuppie
pick-up truck owners. They sit higher and their wheels spew out rocks close
to my windshield's level.

But if anyone has a citation reporting that OEM glass is tougher, I'd like
to see it.



<techman41973@yahoo.com> wrote
> I just got a rock chip in my winshield, directly in my line of sight on
> my 97 Honda Accord. According to California law, I can't patch it, I
> must replace the winshield.
> I got a quote from a local glass shop chain.
> The cost is only $180 including labor.
> This seems way too inexpensive (although perhaps prices have dropped in
> recent years.)
> I am almost sure the the replacement is not OEM.
> Is it important to use OEM replacements? Not only for safety reasons
> but for quality reasons as well.
> Also, the shop told me I can drive away in about 1/2 hour. This seems
> fishy to me as I would believe that the adhesives need to cure
> properly. I would appreciate any advice.

 

On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 23:01:32 GMT "Elle"
<elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:

> But if anyone has a citation reporting that OEM glass is tougher, I'd
> like to see it.

Didnt your OEM crack?

Fact of the matter, a rock/pebble, with the proper
angle and thrust, will mar any quality glass.

--
remove MYSHOES to email

 

"mst" <mstg@linuxMYSHOESmail.org> wrote
> On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 23:01:32 GMT "Elle"
> <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> > But if anyone has a citation reporting that OEM glass is tougher, I'd
> > like to see it.
>
> Didnt your OEM crack?

Of course.

My point is it seems a bit too much of a coincidence that of the roughly
five or six projectiles that have hit my windshield hard over the last 14
years, one was hard enough to crack my non-OEM windshield only ten days
after installation.

I guess how this windshielf fares in the coming year will tell more. I am
prepared to resign myself to being messed over by all the trucks kicking up
rocks at the height of my Civic's windshield in my area, but I would like to
know if OEM glass would be tougher.

 

"Nope...there isn't enough difference to worry about.
Mules is mules, Erastus

 

"Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in
news:g%c8f.2697$yX2.895@newsread2.news.pas.earthli nk.net:

> I would be interested to hear opinions on "OEM glass" as well.



OEM Honda glass is like OEM Honda radiators: Overpriced for what you get.

An OEM '97 Accord windshield is less than $300. An aftermarket will be less
than half that.

Quality issues with aftermarket glass usually involve distortion (see item
#2).

The only real quality issues you'll have with any windshield are:

1) Pinchweld paint nicks, which will rust. And they WILL nick the paint,
too. Get the installer to allow you to inspect the pinchweld BEFORE the new
glass goes in, and get him to primer the nicks with his glass primer. If
the glass shop won't let you do this, go find one that will.

2) Distortions in the glass. Have the glass shop support the windshield
at the same angle it will be in when installed, pointing out the shop's
windows. Then go squat down where you will be when in the driver's seat.
Squirm around and watch the view. Does anything appear distorted as you
move around? Then DON'T let them install that glass! Get them to bring in a
new one. A good glass shop will have no objection to you doing this. Of
course, greater priority will be given to distortions directly in your line
of vision. Don't reject glass just because the upper passenger-side corner
has distortion.

3) Nicks in the glass edges. Run your fingernail all around the edges on
both faces. The tiniest nick will eventually turn into a crack. If your
fingernail hangs up at any point, reject the glass.

4) Trim. Probably the very best thing for you to do is remove the wipers,
A-pillar trim and leaf grate yourself. It will prevent them from breaking
it and then gluing it up with urethane so you don't notice.

5) Make certain they've put the new glass in STRAIGHT. If they're in a
hurry they can put it in slightly rotated, and you'll have weird wind
noises and maybe even water leaks. I've just gone through this with a guy
with a 2003 CR-V. Boy did the glass shop screw that one up.

6) As far as drive time after installation, less than an hour is NORMAL.
Modern urethane glass adhesive cures VERY quickly. Don't worry about it.

7) MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL!!!!!!!
STAY WAY FROM DUMP TRUCKS! I call them windshield-crackers. If you are even
100 yards behind a dump truck, drop back 1,000 yards, or pass it. Stay at
LEAST two lanes away. Every time one of those things goes over the
slightest bump, a cascade of gravel will sift out of the tailgate seams and
break your windshield! They make dumpers tarp their loads, but they do
NOTHING about the tailgate seams. Dumb, if you ask me. And generally, don't
tailgate. If you're close to another vehicle, the chances of gravel getting
kicked onto your windshield are much greater.

Just my 2¢, of course.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

<techman41973@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1130452464.040485.311020@g49g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> According to California law, I can't patch it, I
> must replace the winshield.

I'm not finding that - Chapter and verse, please?

 

"Doug McCrary" <DougMcCrary@spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:R%h8f.32481$gF4.10586@trnddc07...
>
> <techman41973@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1130452464.040485.311020@g49g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>> According to California law, I can't patch it, I
>> must replace the winshield.
>
> I'm not finding that - Chapter and verse, please?
>
>
A good indication of whether all patches are unapproved is whether there are
Novus dealers listed in the "glass replacement or repair" section of the
local phone book; they won't thrive if what they do is illegal. Apparently
the technique has also changed recently, because the last time I had a star
crack repaired they said the maximum size was one that could be covered by a
quarter. Now I'm told they can repair it if the crack can be covered by a
dollar bill. Maybe the next time it will be if they can be covered by a $100
bill ;-)

Our last crack was too big, and we got a good price and good service on
replacement from Safelite. YMMV.

Mike

Mike

 

"Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:Asd8f.782$8c5.385@newsread3.news.pas.earthlin k.net...
>
> "mst" <mstg@linuxMYSHOESmail.org> wrote
>> On Thu, 27 Oct 2005 23:01:32 GMT "Elle"
>> <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>>
>> > But if anyone has a citation reporting that OEM glass is tougher, I'd
>> > like to see it.
>>
>> Didnt your OEM crack?
>
> Of course.
>
> My point is it seems a bit too much of a coincidence that of the roughly
> five or six projectiles that have hit my windshield hard over the last 14
> years, one was hard enough to crack my non-OEM windshield only ten days
> after installation.
>
> I guess how this windshielf fares in the coming year will tell more. I am
> prepared to resign myself to being messed over by all the trucks kicking
> up
> rocks at the height of my Civic's windshield in my area, but I would like
> to
> know if OEM glass would be tougher.
>
I think blind luck has a lot to do with it. A Dodge we had went through 4
windshields in barely half a year. The original was smashed by a vandal.
Maybe a month later a big rock terminated the new one. Not a week later a
storm broke a big limb from a tree and smashed #3. Within a couple months #4
picked up a couple of star cracks that grew into each other (that could be
related to windshield quality). The next windshield lasted until we got rid
of the car... maybe a year or two.

I recall many years ago there was a car commercial (Buick?) that featured
two cars running into a steel ball or similar suspended by a string. The
Brand X car had a smashed windshield while Wonder Car didn't. They were
touting a "specially toughened area in front of the driver" - which made me
wonder if there was a reason the rest of the windshield was more vulnerable.
Since then I learned that tempering makes glass much more resistant to
impact but much more vulnerable to temperature changes. So... there may well
be differences, but I couldn't tell you what is best..

Mike

 

techman41973@yahoo.com wrote:
> I just got a rock chip in my winshield, directly in my line of sight on
> my 97 Honda Accord. According to California law, I can't patch it, I
> must replace the winshield.
> I got a quote from a local glass shop chain.
> The cost is only $180 including labor.
> This seems way too inexpensive (although perhaps prices have dropped in
> recent years.)
> I am almost sure the the replacement is not OEM.
> Is it important to use OEM replacements? Not only for safety reasons
> but for quality reasons as well.
> Also, the shop told me I can drive away in about 1/2 hour. This seems
> fishy to me as I would believe that the adhesives need to cure
> properly. I would appreciate any advice.
> Thanks

My experience with non-OEM glass is that it is as tough (or breakable)
as OEM glass. There can be differences in quality however. I have
seen non-OEM glass with a not well formed outer surface. As a
consequence the windshield wiper misses one or more low spots in the
glass. If it were me I would insist on OEM glass from the dealer.

 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote
> "Elle" <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote
> > "mst" <mstg@linuxMYSHOESmail.org> wrote
> >> <elle_navorski@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> > But if anyone has a citation reporting that OEM glass is tougher, I'd
> >> > like to see it.
> >>
> >> Didnt your OEM crack?
> >
> > Of course.
> >
> > My point is it seems a bit too much of a coincidence that of the roughly
> > five or six projectiles that have hit my windshield hard over the last
14
> > years, one was hard enough to crack my non-OEM windshield only ten days
> > after installation.
> >
> > I guess how this windshielf fares in the coming year will tell more. I
am
> > prepared to resign myself to being messed over by all the trucks kicking
> > up
> > rocks at the height of my Civic's windshield in my area, but I would
like
> > to
> > know if OEM glass would be tougher.
> >
> I think blind luck has a lot to do with it. A Dodge we had went through 4
> windshields in barely half a year. The original was smashed by a vandal.
> Maybe a month later a big rock terminated the new one. Not a week later a
> storm broke a big limb from a tree and smashed #3. Within a couple months
#4
> picked up a couple of star cracks that grew into each other (that could be
> related to windshield quality). The next windshield lasted until we got
rid
> of the car... maybe a year or two.

Well, this makes me feel better. ;-)

> I recall many years ago there was a car commercial (Buick?) that featured
> two cars running into a steel ball or similar suspended by a string. The
> Brand X car had a smashed windshield while Wonder Car didn't. They were
> touting a "specially toughened area in front of the driver" - which made
me
> wonder if there was a reason the rest of the windshield was more
vulnerable.
> Since then I learned that tempering makes glass much more resistant to
> impact but much more vulnerable to temperature changes. So... there may
well
> be differences, but I couldn't tell you what is best..

Googling doesn't have much that leaps out on the subject. Thanks to the
other posters (HLS et al.) who say their understanding the resistance to
cracks etc. is no better than OEM.

I did try one of those $10 crack repair kits on the latest crack. The
improvement was slight, worth ten bucks I suppose, plus I managed to extend
the crack another inch during the process.

I guess I'll shop around casually in the next few months.

Maybe there's a little too much construction in my area and I should wait at
least six months until things settle down. The construction just seems to
never end, wherever one is.

 

"John S." <hjsjms@cs.com> wrote in message
news:1130504314.163595.72480@g44g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...

> My experience with non-OEM glass is that it is as tough (or breakable)
> as OEM glass. There can be differences in quality however. I have
> seen non-OEM glass with a not well formed outer surface. As a
> consequence the windshield wiper misses one or more low spots in the
> glass. If it were me I would insist on OEM glass from the dealer.


As I mentioned in a previous post, the dealers in this little country town
outsource all the glasswork. A dealer windshield IS an aftermarket piece.
Never any problems, according to the Buick shop foreman.