Yeah, I had a bad driver's window on my 91 accord. The motor was
fine, but the mechanism got stuck because the metal teeth on the
regulator were worn (all pointy instead of round-tipped) and the nylon
gears off the motor shaft were shot.

Always looking for the cheap out, I greased it all up and put it back
together. Worked great for a couple days. I ended up with a new
motor and regulator and pulling the door apart half a dozen times b/c
I was so cheap about it.

Shop around and get a deal for around $150 on the motor and regulator
and you'll be all set.

 

Yeah, I had a bad driver's window on my 91 accord. The motor was
fine, but the mechanism got stuck because the metal teeth on the
regulator were worn (all pointy instead of round-tipped) and the nylon
gears off the motor shaft were shot.

Always looking for the cheap out, I greased it all up and put it back
together. Worked great for a couple days. I ended up with a new
motor and regulator and pulling the door apart half a dozen times b/c
I was so cheap about it.

Shop around and get a deal for around $150 on the motor and regulator
and you'll be all set.

 

Yeah, I had a bad driver's window on my 91 accord. The motor was
fine, but the mechanism got stuck because the metal teeth on the
regulator were worn (all pointy instead of round-tipped) and the nylon
gears off the motor shaft were shot.

Always looking for the cheap out, I greased it all up and put it back
together. Worked great for a couple days. I ended up with a new
motor and regulator and pulling the door apart half a dozen times b/c
I was so cheap about it.

Shop around and get a deal for around $150 on the motor and regulator
and you'll be all set.

 

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 19:24:03 -0500, chuck smoko <csmoko@earthlink.net>
wrote:

Somewhere, probably in the motor case will be a limit switch (or two)
to stop the motor when the glass is at end of travel. I would guess
it's spring loaded switch with diodes. When the glass is fully up, a
diode is switched-in to allow the motor to go "down" only. When you
pull on the glass you are probably resetting the switch. The switches
are not shown on the wiring diagrams.

Before you buy a new mechanism, grease everything on the mechanism,
that may be all you need to to fix it. The resistance of the frozed
joint may be causing the limits to think the glass is a end of travel.

I do motor control for a living, I am not an auto mechanic. On one of
my projects, the limits would be separate devices.

I wish you luck.

PS. The window on my '92 Accord was acting up and making lots of noise
so I greased it and it now works properly. Use White Lithium Grease
not oil, and definately not WD40.

>Dave,
>Does the motor seem like it's running at all? The reason
>I ask is I had a problem with the power windows on my
>89 LXi. I unnecessarily took the glass and motor out
>only to find it was the "black box" that allows the window
>to go all of the way down with a button push. After getting
>the door apart (and that was no fun), I was bummed to
>find the motor was good.
>
>Below is my post from yesterday.
>
> Subject: Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
> Newsgroups: alt.autos.honda
>
> Besides fixing several MAIN relay's on my and a few
> other Hondas, my 89 accord had a power window
> controller that went bad. Guess what; it had a broken
> solder joint much like the MAIN relay problem. What's
> going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
> design issue of not properly bracing a component to the
> printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to
> hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ-
> ment like a car, eventual failure.
>
>Good luck,
>chuck
>
>DaveC wrote:
>
>> Driver's window stopped on this LX 4-door. Switch wouldn't do anything. If I
>> hold the switch up or down and give the window a tug, it will continue to the
>> top or bottom.
>>
>> Is this the motor going out? If so, I see that they list for almost $300 and
>> retail for a bit over $200. Can these be rebuilt? Anyone done this? Are
>> brushes easy to replace on these?
>>
>> How tough is the motor and regulator to get out of these cars?
>> --
>> DaveC

 

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 19:24:03 -0500, chuck smoko <csmoko@earthlink.net>
wrote:

Somewhere, probably in the motor case will be a limit switch (or two)
to stop the motor when the glass is at end of travel. I would guess
it's spring loaded switch with diodes. When the glass is fully up, a
diode is switched-in to allow the motor to go "down" only. When you
pull on the glass you are probably resetting the switch. The switches
are not shown on the wiring diagrams.

Before you buy a new mechanism, grease everything on the mechanism,
that may be all you need to to fix it. The resistance of the frozed
joint may be causing the limits to think the glass is a end of travel.

I do motor control for a living, I am not an auto mechanic. On one of
my projects, the limits would be separate devices.

I wish you luck.

PS. The window on my '92 Accord was acting up and making lots of noise
so I greased it and it now works properly. Use White Lithium Grease
not oil, and definately not WD40.

>Dave,
>Does the motor seem like it's running at all? The reason
>I ask is I had a problem with the power windows on my
>89 LXi. I unnecessarily took the glass and motor out
>only to find it was the "black box" that allows the window
>to go all of the way down with a button push. After getting
>the door apart (and that was no fun), I was bummed to
>find the motor was good.
>
>Below is my post from yesterday.
>
> Subject: Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
> Newsgroups: alt.autos.honda
>
> Besides fixing several MAIN relay's on my and a few
> other Hondas, my 89 accord had a power window
> controller that went bad. Guess what; it had a broken
> solder joint much like the MAIN relay problem. What's
> going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
> design issue of not properly bracing a component to the
> printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to
> hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ-
> ment like a car, eventual failure.
>
>Good luck,
>chuck
>
>DaveC wrote:
>
>> Driver's window stopped on this LX 4-door. Switch wouldn't do anything. If I
>> hold the switch up or down and give the window a tug, it will continue to the
>> top or bottom.
>>
>> Is this the motor going out? If so, I see that they list for almost $300 and
>> retail for a bit over $200. Can these be rebuilt? Anyone done this? Are
>> brushes easy to replace on these?
>>
>> How tough is the motor and regulator to get out of these cars?
>> --
>> DaveC

 

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 19:24:03 -0500, chuck smoko <csmoko@earthlink.net>
wrote:

Somewhere, probably in the motor case will be a limit switch (or two)
to stop the motor when the glass is at end of travel. I would guess
it's spring loaded switch with diodes. When the glass is fully up, a
diode is switched-in to allow the motor to go "down" only. When you
pull on the glass you are probably resetting the switch. The switches
are not shown on the wiring diagrams.

Before you buy a new mechanism, grease everything on the mechanism,
that may be all you need to to fix it. The resistance of the frozed
joint may be causing the limits to think the glass is a end of travel.

I do motor control for a living, I am not an auto mechanic. On one of
my projects, the limits would be separate devices.

I wish you luck.

PS. The window on my '92 Accord was acting up and making lots of noise
so I greased it and it now works properly. Use White Lithium Grease
not oil, and definately not WD40.

>Dave,
>Does the motor seem like it's running at all? The reason
>I ask is I had a problem with the power windows on my
>89 LXi. I unnecessarily took the glass and motor out
>only to find it was the "black box" that allows the window
>to go all of the way down with a button push. After getting
>the door apart (and that was no fun), I was bummed to
>find the motor was good.
>
>Below is my post from yesterday.
>
> Subject: Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
> Newsgroups: alt.autos.honda
>
> Besides fixing several MAIN relay's on my and a few
> other Hondas, my 89 accord had a power window
> controller that went bad. Guess what; it had a broken
> solder joint much like the MAIN relay problem. What's
> going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
> design issue of not properly bracing a component to the
> printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to
> hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ-
> ment like a car, eventual failure.
>
>Good luck,
>chuck
>
>DaveC wrote:
>
>> Driver's window stopped on this LX 4-door. Switch wouldn't do anything. If I
>> hold the switch up or down and give the window a tug, it will continue to the
>> top or bottom.
>>
>> Is this the motor going out? If so, I see that they list for almost $300 and
>> retail for a bit over $200. Can these be rebuilt? Anyone done this? Are
>> brushes easy to replace on these?
>>
>> How tough is the motor and regulator to get out of these cars?
>> --
>> DaveC

 

On Fri, 30 Jan 2004 19:24:03 -0500, chuck smoko <csmoko@earthlink.net>
wrote:

Somewhere, probably in the motor case will be a limit switch (or two)
to stop the motor when the glass is at end of travel. I would guess
it's spring loaded switch with diodes. When the glass is fully up, a
diode is switched-in to allow the motor to go "down" only. When you
pull on the glass you are probably resetting the switch. The switches
are not shown on the wiring diagrams.

Before you buy a new mechanism, grease everything on the mechanism,
that may be all you need to to fix it. The resistance of the frozed
joint may be causing the limits to think the glass is a end of travel.

I do motor control for a living, I am not an auto mechanic. On one of
my projects, the limits would be separate devices.

I wish you luck.

PS. The window on my '92 Accord was acting up and making lots of noise
so I greased it and it now works properly. Use White Lithium Grease
not oil, and definately not WD40.

>Dave,
>Does the motor seem like it's running at all? The reason
>I ask is I had a problem with the power windows on my
>89 LXi. I unnecessarily took the glass and motor out
>only to find it was the "black box" that allows the window
>to go all of the way down with a button push. After getting
>the door apart (and that was no fun), I was bummed to
>find the motor was good.
>
>Below is my post from yesterday.
>
> Subject: Re: 91 Accord doesn't start
> Newsgroups: alt.autos.honda
>
> Besides fixing several MAIN relay's on my and a few
> other Hondas, my 89 accord had a power window
> controller that went bad. Guess what; it had a broken
> solder joint much like the MAIN relay problem. What's
> going on with Honda's soldering? It could also be a
> design issue of not properly bracing a component to the
> printed circuit board and just depending on the solder to
> hold it. Then with vibrations and jolts that in an environ-
> ment like a car, eventual failure.
>
>Good luck,
>chuck
>
>DaveC wrote:
>
>> Driver's window stopped on this LX 4-door. Switch wouldn't do anything. If I
>> hold the switch up or down and give the window a tug, it will continue to the
>> top or bottom.
>>
>> Is this the motor going out? If so, I see that they list for almost $300 and
>> retail for a bit over $200. Can these be rebuilt? Anyone done this? Are
>> brushes easy to replace on these?
>>
>> How tough is the motor and regulator to get out of these cars?
>> --
>> DaveC