What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
#76
Guest
Posts: n/a
2006 Civic Si 3rd Gear (was: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic)
On 17 Sep 2006 16:23:39 -0700, televascular wrote:
>
> I use Specialty Formulations' MTL-P synthetic transmission fluid in my
> 6spd Civic Si. Aside from the peace of mind, I have noticed a true
> improvement in shift quality; the infamous notchiness in 3rd gear is
> gone! And no, this is not my imagination, many people have noted shift
> feel improvement after switching to ANY synthetic tranny fluid in the
> '06 Si. The MTL-P is very similar to Honda MTF viscosity (11.5cSt), but
> the synth stock/additive package is way superior. A VOA shows Honda MTF
> to be similar to engine oil, with an increased calcium content... But
> I'm curious to see what Acura's newly reformulated tranny fluid is all
> about.
Now THIS I find interesting...
I, too, have noticed this phenomena in 3rd. It has, on occasion, caused a
slight grind, as I didn't get the car fully into third before letting out
the clutch, as the notchiness (good word for it) interrupted my rythem.
What are the downsides (if any) to changing to a Synthetic Tranny fluid?
The manual is pretty clear on sticking with Honda's Tranny fluid. Would
this affect warranty?
Also, should it be done in a shop, or is it sufficient to just drain the
fluid and add the Synth? I've never changed Tranny fluid before in any
car. Always had it done by a shop. But it usually costs $80 or more. If
it is relatively easy, I'll do it myself...
Thanks...
--
Joseph M. LaVigne
jlavigne@hits-buffalo.com
http://www.thelavignefamily.us/MyPipePages/ - 9/18/2006 1:47:58 AM
Tobacconist Brick and Mortar Database: http://bam.tobaccocellar.org/
"If you were waiting for the oppurtune moment ... that was it."
--Jack Sparrow, "Pirates of the Carribean"
>
> I use Specialty Formulations' MTL-P synthetic transmission fluid in my
> 6spd Civic Si. Aside from the peace of mind, I have noticed a true
> improvement in shift quality; the infamous notchiness in 3rd gear is
> gone! And no, this is not my imagination, many people have noted shift
> feel improvement after switching to ANY synthetic tranny fluid in the
> '06 Si. The MTL-P is very similar to Honda MTF viscosity (11.5cSt), but
> the synth stock/additive package is way superior. A VOA shows Honda MTF
> to be similar to engine oil, with an increased calcium content... But
> I'm curious to see what Acura's newly reformulated tranny fluid is all
> about.
Now THIS I find interesting...
I, too, have noticed this phenomena in 3rd. It has, on occasion, caused a
slight grind, as I didn't get the car fully into third before letting out
the clutch, as the notchiness (good word for it) interrupted my rythem.
What are the downsides (if any) to changing to a Synthetic Tranny fluid?
The manual is pretty clear on sticking with Honda's Tranny fluid. Would
this affect warranty?
Also, should it be done in a shop, or is it sufficient to just drain the
fluid and add the Synth? I've never changed Tranny fluid before in any
car. Always had it done by a shop. But it usually costs $80 or more. If
it is relatively easy, I'll do it myself...
Thanks...
--
Joseph M. LaVigne
jlavigne@hits-buffalo.com
http://www.thelavignefamily.us/MyPipePages/ - 9/18/2006 1:47:58 AM
Tobacconist Brick and Mortar Database: http://bam.tobaccocellar.org/
"If you were waiting for the oppurtune moment ... that was it."
--Jack Sparrow, "Pirates of the Carribean"
#77
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
It's based on nothing useful. I have a 2003 Accord 4-cyl. I switched to
Amsoil 0w30 at 40,000KM after what I call an initial breakin period. I
replace the oil filer every 20,000KM. I replace the oil every 40,000Km.
Amsoil has just recently come up with nano-filter technology that will
allow me to replace oil filter every 40,000KM. My second break in
period is just occuring. I have 223,000KM. I am now getting the best
possible fuel consumption of 5.9l - 6.1l per 100KM while driving 100KM
per hour. My oil consumption is exactly 0.6l + whatever's in the oil
filter per 40,000KM. I recently bought a 2006 Pilot. It has a life
indicator that shows or "reduces" the expected life of the oil the
higher the sustained engine rev is. I managed to get it to a 5% of life
left in just over 5500KM. However, I use Amsoil 5W20 (for inital engine
breakin of 40,000km)which at that mileage is visibly very clean, so all
I've done is reset the oil life indicator and continued with the same
oil. The best thing for the society is to inform themselves about
engine oil and mechanical durability. It will save a ton of money and a
pile of resources for the whole planet. The rest is scare tactics and
oil industry capitalizing on everyone's ignorance.
Hope this helps.
Seth wrote:
> "televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1158036960.760313.304920@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com...
> > Things positively known:
> >
> > - RPM speed/duration
> > - idle time
> > - engine temperature
> >
> > The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
> > detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
> > dino or synthetic.
> >
> > Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
> > miles, regardless of what the OLM says.
>
> But what is that advice based on? I use dino oil (or really whatever
> synth-blend is currently offered) and change my oil every 7000 to 7500. At
> 165,000 miles, my Accord is still going strong.
>
> Changing synthetic every 5000 won't hurt anything on a mechanical level, but
> it sure takes away a good deal of economical value by shifting the expense
> to over-frequent oil changes.
Amsoil 0w30 at 40,000KM after what I call an initial breakin period. I
replace the oil filer every 20,000KM. I replace the oil every 40,000Km.
Amsoil has just recently come up with nano-filter technology that will
allow me to replace oil filter every 40,000KM. My second break in
period is just occuring. I have 223,000KM. I am now getting the best
possible fuel consumption of 5.9l - 6.1l per 100KM while driving 100KM
per hour. My oil consumption is exactly 0.6l + whatever's in the oil
filter per 40,000KM. I recently bought a 2006 Pilot. It has a life
indicator that shows or "reduces" the expected life of the oil the
higher the sustained engine rev is. I managed to get it to a 5% of life
left in just over 5500KM. However, I use Amsoil 5W20 (for inital engine
breakin of 40,000km)which at that mileage is visibly very clean, so all
I've done is reset the oil life indicator and continued with the same
oil. The best thing for the society is to inform themselves about
engine oil and mechanical durability. It will save a ton of money and a
pile of resources for the whole planet. The rest is scare tactics and
oil industry capitalizing on everyone's ignorance.
Hope this helps.
Seth wrote:
> "televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1158036960.760313.304920@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com...
> > Things positively known:
> >
> > - RPM speed/duration
> > - idle time
> > - engine temperature
> >
> > The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
> > detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
> > dino or synthetic.
> >
> > Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
> > miles, regardless of what the OLM says.
>
> But what is that advice based on? I use dino oil (or really whatever
> synth-blend is currently offered) and change my oil every 7000 to 7500. At
> 165,000 miles, my Accord is still going strong.
>
> Changing synthetic every 5000 won't hurt anything on a mechanical level, but
> it sure takes away a good deal of economical value by shifting the expense
> to over-frequent oil changes.
#78
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
It's based on nothing useful. I have a 2003 Accord 4-cyl. I switched to
Amsoil 0w30 at 40,000KM after what I call an initial breakin period. I
replace the oil filer every 20,000KM. I replace the oil every 40,000Km.
Amsoil has just recently come up with nano-filter technology that will
allow me to replace oil filter every 40,000KM. My second break in
period is just occuring. I have 223,000KM. I am now getting the best
possible fuel consumption of 5.9l - 6.1l per 100KM while driving 100KM
per hour. My oil consumption is exactly 0.6l + whatever's in the oil
filter per 40,000KM. I recently bought a 2006 Pilot. It has a life
indicator that shows or "reduces" the expected life of the oil the
higher the sustained engine rev is. I managed to get it to a 5% of life
left in just over 5500KM. However, I use Amsoil 5W20 (for inital engine
breakin of 40,000km)which at that mileage is visibly very clean, so all
I've done is reset the oil life indicator and continued with the same
oil. The best thing for the society is to inform themselves about
engine oil and mechanical durability. It will save a ton of money and a
pile of resources for the whole planet. The rest is scare tactics and
oil industry capitalizing on everyone's ignorance.
Hope this helps.
Seth wrote:
> "televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1158036960.760313.304920@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com...
> > Things positively known:
> >
> > - RPM speed/duration
> > - idle time
> > - engine temperature
> >
> > The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
> > detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
> > dino or synthetic.
> >
> > Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
> > miles, regardless of what the OLM says.
>
> But what is that advice based on? I use dino oil (or really whatever
> synth-blend is currently offered) and change my oil every 7000 to 7500. At
> 165,000 miles, my Accord is still going strong.
>
> Changing synthetic every 5000 won't hurt anything on a mechanical level, but
> it sure takes away a good deal of economical value by shifting the expense
> to over-frequent oil changes.
Amsoil 0w30 at 40,000KM after what I call an initial breakin period. I
replace the oil filer every 20,000KM. I replace the oil every 40,000Km.
Amsoil has just recently come up with nano-filter technology that will
allow me to replace oil filter every 40,000KM. My second break in
period is just occuring. I have 223,000KM. I am now getting the best
possible fuel consumption of 5.9l - 6.1l per 100KM while driving 100KM
per hour. My oil consumption is exactly 0.6l + whatever's in the oil
filter per 40,000KM. I recently bought a 2006 Pilot. It has a life
indicator that shows or "reduces" the expected life of the oil the
higher the sustained engine rev is. I managed to get it to a 5% of life
left in just over 5500KM. However, I use Amsoil 5W20 (for inital engine
breakin of 40,000km)which at that mileage is visibly very clean, so all
I've done is reset the oil life indicator and continued with the same
oil. The best thing for the society is to inform themselves about
engine oil and mechanical durability. It will save a ton of money and a
pile of resources for the whole planet. The rest is scare tactics and
oil industry capitalizing on everyone's ignorance.
Hope this helps.
Seth wrote:
> "televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1158036960.760313.304920@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com...
> > Things positively known:
> >
> > - RPM speed/duration
> > - idle time
> > - engine temperature
> >
> > The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
> > detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
> > dino or synthetic.
> >
> > Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
> > miles, regardless of what the OLM says.
>
> But what is that advice based on? I use dino oil (or really whatever
> synth-blend is currently offered) and change my oil every 7000 to 7500. At
> 165,000 miles, my Accord is still going strong.
>
> Changing synthetic every 5000 won't hurt anything on a mechanical level, but
> it sure takes away a good deal of economical value by shifting the expense
> to over-frequent oil changes.
#79
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
It's based on nothing useful. I have a 2003 Accord 4-cyl. I switched to
Amsoil 0w30 at 40,000KM after what I call an initial breakin period. I
replace the oil filer every 20,000KM. I replace the oil every 40,000Km.
Amsoil has just recently come up with nano-filter technology that will
allow me to replace oil filter every 40,000KM. My second break in
period is just occuring. I have 223,000KM. I am now getting the best
possible fuel consumption of 5.9l - 6.1l per 100KM while driving 100KM
per hour. My oil consumption is exactly 0.6l + whatever's in the oil
filter per 40,000KM. I recently bought a 2006 Pilot. It has a life
indicator that shows or "reduces" the expected life of the oil the
higher the sustained engine rev is. I managed to get it to a 5% of life
left in just over 5500KM. However, I use Amsoil 5W20 (for inital engine
breakin of 40,000km)which at that mileage is visibly very clean, so all
I've done is reset the oil life indicator and continued with the same
oil. The best thing for the society is to inform themselves about
engine oil and mechanical durability. It will save a ton of money and a
pile of resources for the whole planet. The rest is scare tactics and
oil industry capitalizing on everyone's ignorance.
Hope this helps.
Seth wrote:
> "televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1158036960.760313.304920@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com...
> > Things positively known:
> >
> > - RPM speed/duration
> > - idle time
> > - engine temperature
> >
> > The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
> > detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
> > dino or synthetic.
> >
> > Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
> > miles, regardless of what the OLM says.
>
> But what is that advice based on? I use dino oil (or really whatever
> synth-blend is currently offered) and change my oil every 7000 to 7500. At
> 165,000 miles, my Accord is still going strong.
>
> Changing synthetic every 5000 won't hurt anything on a mechanical level, but
> it sure takes away a good deal of economical value by shifting the expense
> to over-frequent oil changes.
Amsoil 0w30 at 40,000KM after what I call an initial breakin period. I
replace the oil filer every 20,000KM. I replace the oil every 40,000Km.
Amsoil has just recently come up with nano-filter technology that will
allow me to replace oil filter every 40,000KM. My second break in
period is just occuring. I have 223,000KM. I am now getting the best
possible fuel consumption of 5.9l - 6.1l per 100KM while driving 100KM
per hour. My oil consumption is exactly 0.6l + whatever's in the oil
filter per 40,000KM. I recently bought a 2006 Pilot. It has a life
indicator that shows or "reduces" the expected life of the oil the
higher the sustained engine rev is. I managed to get it to a 5% of life
left in just over 5500KM. However, I use Amsoil 5W20 (for inital engine
breakin of 40,000km)which at that mileage is visibly very clean, so all
I've done is reset the oil life indicator and continued with the same
oil. The best thing for the society is to inform themselves about
engine oil and mechanical durability. It will save a ton of money and a
pile of resources for the whole planet. The rest is scare tactics and
oil industry capitalizing on everyone's ignorance.
Hope this helps.
Seth wrote:
> "televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1158036960.760313.304920@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com...
> > Things positively known:
> >
> > - RPM speed/duration
> > - idle time
> > - engine temperature
> >
> > The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
> > detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
> > dino or synthetic.
> >
> > Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
> > miles, regardless of what the OLM says.
>
> But what is that advice based on? I use dino oil (or really whatever
> synth-blend is currently offered) and change my oil every 7000 to 7500. At
> 165,000 miles, my Accord is still going strong.
>
> Changing synthetic every 5000 won't hurt anything on a mechanical level, but
> it sure takes away a good deal of economical value by shifting the expense
> to over-frequent oil changes.
#80
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
Sorry to tell you I used to pay $7.5 CDN for 1l of Honda's 5W20. I now
pay 6.75 for 1l of Amsoil 5W20. Honda oil is the cheapest
semi-synthetic blend from Petrocanada on the market. I believe the only
worse blend is Yamalube, which is $10 per 1l. Although Amsoil 5W20 is
not a pure synthetic just like Mobil 1 is not (unless it a 15,000
extended range oil), I would bet my last dollar that Amsoil 5W20 is
superior to "Honda's" 5W20. I have a 2003 Accord with 223,000KM. I
drive on Amsoil 0W30 and have been since 40,000KM. I replace the oil
every 40,000KMs. For me that's every 3 months. If I had to change it
every 8000KM, that would mean that I'd have to go under the car more
frequently than every 2 weeks. I guess suckers are born every day, and
the oil industry loves them, so keep up the busy lifestyle of changing
oil.
Cheers.
televascular wrote:
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
> assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
> agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
> that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
> liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
> ownership". After 5,000mi on conventional oil, the EP and AW additives
> in the oil break down and the engine is running on a minimal level of
> protection. The Molybdenum/Phosphurous content settles out of
> suspension, and the engine may utilize ZDDP (a zinc additive) as its
> last line of defense against metal-to-metal contact. When the oil is in
> a weakened state, varnish begins to form; if you go even further,
> sludge becomes a serious issue. While a 7,500mi OCI is okay for the
> average cost-sensitive consumer, it is unacceptable to car enthusiasts.
>
> A synthetic blend is not a good way to go. It is just regular oil with
> synthetic additives, making up about 20% of the total volume. You
> should either stick to conventional oil (for lower cost and near-equal
> performance) or full synthetic (for superior protection). I highly
> recommend Mobil 1 full synth or equivalent. I am also against boutique
> synthetic oil companies, such as Redline or Amsoil; their prices are
> nearly double the average synthetic for a small increase in
> performance. It is totally unnecessary unless your engine will be
> seeing race conditions.
>
> Also, I should point out that there is no solid evidence that synthetic
> oils are capable of lasting much longer than conventional oils. Many
> companies sell "15,000mi OCI" oils because they have complete faith in
> synthetic products; however, most industry professionals agree this
> extended OCI concept has not yet been proven. The same additives used
> in dino oil are used here, and they break down at about the same rate.
> Synthetic has better cleaning abilites and viscosity stability at high
> temps due to a lab-made base stock, but it's no miracle product for
> your engine. Save your money and get the standard full synthetic.
>
> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com and its forum,
> http://theoildrop.server101.com are excellent places to learn about the
> subject. There are many misconceptions about engine oil and its
> capabilities, so learn up and buy smart.
pay 6.75 for 1l of Amsoil 5W20. Honda oil is the cheapest
semi-synthetic blend from Petrocanada on the market. I believe the only
worse blend is Yamalube, which is $10 per 1l. Although Amsoil 5W20 is
not a pure synthetic just like Mobil 1 is not (unless it a 15,000
extended range oil), I would bet my last dollar that Amsoil 5W20 is
superior to "Honda's" 5W20. I have a 2003 Accord with 223,000KM. I
drive on Amsoil 0W30 and have been since 40,000KM. I replace the oil
every 40,000KMs. For me that's every 3 months. If I had to change it
every 8000KM, that would mean that I'd have to go under the car more
frequently than every 2 weeks. I guess suckers are born every day, and
the oil industry loves them, so keep up the busy lifestyle of changing
oil.
Cheers.
televascular wrote:
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
> assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
> agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
> that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
> liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
> ownership". After 5,000mi on conventional oil, the EP and AW additives
> in the oil break down and the engine is running on a minimal level of
> protection. The Molybdenum/Phosphurous content settles out of
> suspension, and the engine may utilize ZDDP (a zinc additive) as its
> last line of defense against metal-to-metal contact. When the oil is in
> a weakened state, varnish begins to form; if you go even further,
> sludge becomes a serious issue. While a 7,500mi OCI is okay for the
> average cost-sensitive consumer, it is unacceptable to car enthusiasts.
>
> A synthetic blend is not a good way to go. It is just regular oil with
> synthetic additives, making up about 20% of the total volume. You
> should either stick to conventional oil (for lower cost and near-equal
> performance) or full synthetic (for superior protection). I highly
> recommend Mobil 1 full synth or equivalent. I am also against boutique
> synthetic oil companies, such as Redline or Amsoil; their prices are
> nearly double the average synthetic for a small increase in
> performance. It is totally unnecessary unless your engine will be
> seeing race conditions.
>
> Also, I should point out that there is no solid evidence that synthetic
> oils are capable of lasting much longer than conventional oils. Many
> companies sell "15,000mi OCI" oils because they have complete faith in
> synthetic products; however, most industry professionals agree this
> extended OCI concept has not yet been proven. The same additives used
> in dino oil are used here, and they break down at about the same rate.
> Synthetic has better cleaning abilites and viscosity stability at high
> temps due to a lab-made base stock, but it's no miracle product for
> your engine. Save your money and get the standard full synthetic.
>
> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com and its forum,
> http://theoildrop.server101.com are excellent places to learn about the
> subject. There are many misconceptions about engine oil and its
> capabilities, so learn up and buy smart.
#81
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
Sorry to tell you I used to pay $7.5 CDN for 1l of Honda's 5W20. I now
pay 6.75 for 1l of Amsoil 5W20. Honda oil is the cheapest
semi-synthetic blend from Petrocanada on the market. I believe the only
worse blend is Yamalube, which is $10 per 1l. Although Amsoil 5W20 is
not a pure synthetic just like Mobil 1 is not (unless it a 15,000
extended range oil), I would bet my last dollar that Amsoil 5W20 is
superior to "Honda's" 5W20. I have a 2003 Accord with 223,000KM. I
drive on Amsoil 0W30 and have been since 40,000KM. I replace the oil
every 40,000KMs. For me that's every 3 months. If I had to change it
every 8000KM, that would mean that I'd have to go under the car more
frequently than every 2 weeks. I guess suckers are born every day, and
the oil industry loves them, so keep up the busy lifestyle of changing
oil.
Cheers.
televascular wrote:
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
> assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
> agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
> that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
> liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
> ownership". After 5,000mi on conventional oil, the EP and AW additives
> in the oil break down and the engine is running on a minimal level of
> protection. The Molybdenum/Phosphurous content settles out of
> suspension, and the engine may utilize ZDDP (a zinc additive) as its
> last line of defense against metal-to-metal contact. When the oil is in
> a weakened state, varnish begins to form; if you go even further,
> sludge becomes a serious issue. While a 7,500mi OCI is okay for the
> average cost-sensitive consumer, it is unacceptable to car enthusiasts.
>
> A synthetic blend is not a good way to go. It is just regular oil with
> synthetic additives, making up about 20% of the total volume. You
> should either stick to conventional oil (for lower cost and near-equal
> performance) or full synthetic (for superior protection). I highly
> recommend Mobil 1 full synth or equivalent. I am also against boutique
> synthetic oil companies, such as Redline or Amsoil; their prices are
> nearly double the average synthetic for a small increase in
> performance. It is totally unnecessary unless your engine will be
> seeing race conditions.
>
> Also, I should point out that there is no solid evidence that synthetic
> oils are capable of lasting much longer than conventional oils. Many
> companies sell "15,000mi OCI" oils because they have complete faith in
> synthetic products; however, most industry professionals agree this
> extended OCI concept has not yet been proven. The same additives used
> in dino oil are used here, and they break down at about the same rate.
> Synthetic has better cleaning abilites and viscosity stability at high
> temps due to a lab-made base stock, but it's no miracle product for
> your engine. Save your money and get the standard full synthetic.
>
> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com and its forum,
> http://theoildrop.server101.com are excellent places to learn about the
> subject. There are many misconceptions about engine oil and its
> capabilities, so learn up and buy smart.
pay 6.75 for 1l of Amsoil 5W20. Honda oil is the cheapest
semi-synthetic blend from Petrocanada on the market. I believe the only
worse blend is Yamalube, which is $10 per 1l. Although Amsoil 5W20 is
not a pure synthetic just like Mobil 1 is not (unless it a 15,000
extended range oil), I would bet my last dollar that Amsoil 5W20 is
superior to "Honda's" 5W20. I have a 2003 Accord with 223,000KM. I
drive on Amsoil 0W30 and have been since 40,000KM. I replace the oil
every 40,000KMs. For me that's every 3 months. If I had to change it
every 8000KM, that would mean that I'd have to go under the car more
frequently than every 2 weeks. I guess suckers are born every day, and
the oil industry loves them, so keep up the busy lifestyle of changing
oil.
Cheers.
televascular wrote:
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
> assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
> agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
> that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
> liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
> ownership". After 5,000mi on conventional oil, the EP and AW additives
> in the oil break down and the engine is running on a minimal level of
> protection. The Molybdenum/Phosphurous content settles out of
> suspension, and the engine may utilize ZDDP (a zinc additive) as its
> last line of defense against metal-to-metal contact. When the oil is in
> a weakened state, varnish begins to form; if you go even further,
> sludge becomes a serious issue. While a 7,500mi OCI is okay for the
> average cost-sensitive consumer, it is unacceptable to car enthusiasts.
>
> A synthetic blend is not a good way to go. It is just regular oil with
> synthetic additives, making up about 20% of the total volume. You
> should either stick to conventional oil (for lower cost and near-equal
> performance) or full synthetic (for superior protection). I highly
> recommend Mobil 1 full synth or equivalent. I am also against boutique
> synthetic oil companies, such as Redline or Amsoil; their prices are
> nearly double the average synthetic for a small increase in
> performance. It is totally unnecessary unless your engine will be
> seeing race conditions.
>
> Also, I should point out that there is no solid evidence that synthetic
> oils are capable of lasting much longer than conventional oils. Many
> companies sell "15,000mi OCI" oils because they have complete faith in
> synthetic products; however, most industry professionals agree this
> extended OCI concept has not yet been proven. The same additives used
> in dino oil are used here, and they break down at about the same rate.
> Synthetic has better cleaning abilites and viscosity stability at high
> temps due to a lab-made base stock, but it's no miracle product for
> your engine. Save your money and get the standard full synthetic.
>
> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com and its forum,
> http://theoildrop.server101.com are excellent places to learn about the
> subject. There are many misconceptions about engine oil and its
> capabilities, so learn up and buy smart.
#82
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
Sorry to tell you I used to pay $7.5 CDN for 1l of Honda's 5W20. I now
pay 6.75 for 1l of Amsoil 5W20. Honda oil is the cheapest
semi-synthetic blend from Petrocanada on the market. I believe the only
worse blend is Yamalube, which is $10 per 1l. Although Amsoil 5W20 is
not a pure synthetic just like Mobil 1 is not (unless it a 15,000
extended range oil), I would bet my last dollar that Amsoil 5W20 is
superior to "Honda's" 5W20. I have a 2003 Accord with 223,000KM. I
drive on Amsoil 0W30 and have been since 40,000KM. I replace the oil
every 40,000KMs. For me that's every 3 months. If I had to change it
every 8000KM, that would mean that I'd have to go under the car more
frequently than every 2 weeks. I guess suckers are born every day, and
the oil industry loves them, so keep up the busy lifestyle of changing
oil.
Cheers.
televascular wrote:
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
> assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
> agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
> that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
> liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
> ownership". After 5,000mi on conventional oil, the EP and AW additives
> in the oil break down and the engine is running on a minimal level of
> protection. The Molybdenum/Phosphurous content settles out of
> suspension, and the engine may utilize ZDDP (a zinc additive) as its
> last line of defense against metal-to-metal contact. When the oil is in
> a weakened state, varnish begins to form; if you go even further,
> sludge becomes a serious issue. While a 7,500mi OCI is okay for the
> average cost-sensitive consumer, it is unacceptable to car enthusiasts.
>
> A synthetic blend is not a good way to go. It is just regular oil with
> synthetic additives, making up about 20% of the total volume. You
> should either stick to conventional oil (for lower cost and near-equal
> performance) or full synthetic (for superior protection). I highly
> recommend Mobil 1 full synth or equivalent. I am also against boutique
> synthetic oil companies, such as Redline or Amsoil; their prices are
> nearly double the average synthetic for a small increase in
> performance. It is totally unnecessary unless your engine will be
> seeing race conditions.
>
> Also, I should point out that there is no solid evidence that synthetic
> oils are capable of lasting much longer than conventional oils. Many
> companies sell "15,000mi OCI" oils because they have complete faith in
> synthetic products; however, most industry professionals agree this
> extended OCI concept has not yet been proven. The same additives used
> in dino oil are used here, and they break down at about the same rate.
> Synthetic has better cleaning abilites and viscosity stability at high
> temps due to a lab-made base stock, but it's no miracle product for
> your engine. Save your money and get the standard full synthetic.
>
> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com and its forum,
> http://theoildrop.server101.com are excellent places to learn about the
> subject. There are many misconceptions about engine oil and its
> capabilities, so learn up and buy smart.
pay 6.75 for 1l of Amsoil 5W20. Honda oil is the cheapest
semi-synthetic blend from Petrocanada on the market. I believe the only
worse blend is Yamalube, which is $10 per 1l. Although Amsoil 5W20 is
not a pure synthetic just like Mobil 1 is not (unless it a 15,000
extended range oil), I would bet my last dollar that Amsoil 5W20 is
superior to "Honda's" 5W20. I have a 2003 Accord with 223,000KM. I
drive on Amsoil 0W30 and have been since 40,000KM. I replace the oil
every 40,000KMs. For me that's every 3 months. If I had to change it
every 8000KM, that would mean that I'd have to go under the car more
frequently than every 2 weeks. I guess suckers are born every day, and
the oil industry loves them, so keep up the busy lifestyle of changing
oil.
Cheers.
televascular wrote:
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
> assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
> agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
> that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
> liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
> ownership". After 5,000mi on conventional oil, the EP and AW additives
> in the oil break down and the engine is running on a minimal level of
> protection. The Molybdenum/Phosphurous content settles out of
> suspension, and the engine may utilize ZDDP (a zinc additive) as its
> last line of defense against metal-to-metal contact. When the oil is in
> a weakened state, varnish begins to form; if you go even further,
> sludge becomes a serious issue. While a 7,500mi OCI is okay for the
> average cost-sensitive consumer, it is unacceptable to car enthusiasts.
>
> A synthetic blend is not a good way to go. It is just regular oil with
> synthetic additives, making up about 20% of the total volume. You
> should either stick to conventional oil (for lower cost and near-equal
> performance) or full synthetic (for superior protection). I highly
> recommend Mobil 1 full synth or equivalent. I am also against boutique
> synthetic oil companies, such as Redline or Amsoil; their prices are
> nearly double the average synthetic for a small increase in
> performance. It is totally unnecessary unless your engine will be
> seeing race conditions.
>
> Also, I should point out that there is no solid evidence that synthetic
> oils are capable of lasting much longer than conventional oils. Many
> companies sell "15,000mi OCI" oils because they have complete faith in
> synthetic products; however, most industry professionals agree this
> extended OCI concept has not yet been proven. The same additives used
> in dino oil are used here, and they break down at about the same rate.
> Synthetic has better cleaning abilites and viscosity stability at high
> temps due to a lab-made base stock, but it's no miracle product for
> your engine. Save your money and get the standard full synthetic.
>
> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com and its forum,
> http://theoildrop.server101.com are excellent places to learn about the
> subject. There are many misconceptions about engine oil and its
> capabilities, so learn up and buy smart.
#83
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:
> In article <1158535419.462415.87510@m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.c om>,
> "televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > There
> > was a contest in California decades ago about which organization could
> > put the most mileage on a car within one year. Not sure about the
> > specifics, but a Civic won with 1,000,000 miles.
>
> I claim bullshit.
Haha. That's a lot of calculations you went through. I guess I'm wrong
about the one year time limit; like I said, I don't remember specifics.
Do the Google search and find the contest website, I'm too lazy.
#84
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:
> In article <1158535419.462415.87510@m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.c om>,
> "televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > There
> > was a contest in California decades ago about which organization could
> > put the most mileage on a car within one year. Not sure about the
> > specifics, but a Civic won with 1,000,000 miles.
>
> I claim bullshit.
Haha. That's a lot of calculations you went through. I guess I'm wrong
about the one year time limit; like I said, I don't remember specifics.
Do the Google search and find the contest website, I'm too lazy.
#85
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:
> In article <1158535419.462415.87510@m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.c om>,
> "televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > There
> > was a contest in California decades ago about which organization could
> > put the most mileage on a car within one year. Not sure about the
> > specifics, but a Civic won with 1,000,000 miles.
>
> I claim bullshit.
Haha. That's a lot of calculations you went through. I guess I'm wrong
about the one year time limit; like I said, I don't remember specifics.
Do the Google search and find the contest website, I'm too lazy.
#86
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
televascular wrote:
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
> assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
> agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
> that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
> liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
> ownership".
Blah blah blah. It looks like you have accumulated lots of opinion on
the topic but little in the way of real data. None of your ramblings
are backed up with evidence.
John
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
> assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
> agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
> that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
> liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
> ownership".
Blah blah blah. It looks like you have accumulated lots of opinion on
the topic but little in the way of real data. None of your ramblings
are backed up with evidence.
John
#87
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
televascular wrote:
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
> assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
> agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
> that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
> liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
> ownership".
Blah blah blah. It looks like you have accumulated lots of opinion on
the topic but little in the way of real data. None of your ramblings
are backed up with evidence.
John
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
> assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
> agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
> that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
> liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
> ownership".
Blah blah blah. It looks like you have accumulated lots of opinion on
the topic but little in the way of real data. None of your ramblings
are backed up with evidence.
John
#88
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
televascular wrote:
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
> assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
> agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
> that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
> liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
> ownership".
Blah blah blah. It looks like you have accumulated lots of opinion on
the topic but little in the way of real data. None of your ramblings
are backed up with evidence.
John
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
> assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
> agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
> that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
> liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
> ownership".
Blah blah blah. It looks like you have accumulated lots of opinion on
the topic but little in the way of real data. None of your ramblings
are backed up with evidence.
John
#89
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:
> In article <H3XOg.6$s85.5@newsfe08.lga>,
> "Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Now we have computers that take ALL the factors affecting oil life into
>> consideration and thus the 3000 OCI of old has morphed into "change the oil
>> when the computer says to" with a stage of "here are some different
>> intervals based on use" in between.
>
> I would be happier if the computer gave me even a few simple options for
> explaining whether I was a conservative worrywart who wanted a very
> conservative interval, or whatever.
>
Easily done. Just change your oil at some point early in the countdown.
Personally I change the oil when the oil life monitor is around 20%
left to go. Ta da, a safety margin.
John
> In article <H3XOg.6$s85.5@newsfe08.lga>,
> "Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Now we have computers that take ALL the factors affecting oil life into
>> consideration and thus the 3000 OCI of old has morphed into "change the oil
>> when the computer says to" with a stage of "here are some different
>> intervals based on use" in between.
>
> I would be happier if the computer gave me even a few simple options for
> explaining whether I was a conservative worrywart who wanted a very
> conservative interval, or whatever.
>
Easily done. Just change your oil at some point early in the countdown.
Personally I change the oil when the oil life monitor is around 20%
left to go. Ta da, a safety margin.
John
#90
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: What factors go into the oil life indicator: 2006 Civic
Elmo P. Shagnasty wrote:
> In article <H3XOg.6$s85.5@newsfe08.lga>,
> "Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Now we have computers that take ALL the factors affecting oil life into
>> consideration and thus the 3000 OCI of old has morphed into "change the oil
>> when the computer says to" with a stage of "here are some different
>> intervals based on use" in between.
>
> I would be happier if the computer gave me even a few simple options for
> explaining whether I was a conservative worrywart who wanted a very
> conservative interval, or whatever.
>
Easily done. Just change your oil at some point early in the countdown.
Personally I change the oil when the oil life monitor is around 20%
left to go. Ta da, a safety margin.
John
> In article <H3XOg.6$s85.5@newsfe08.lga>,
> "Seth" <seth_lermanNOSPAM@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Now we have computers that take ALL the factors affecting oil life into
>> consideration and thus the 3000 OCI of old has morphed into "change the oil
>> when the computer says to" with a stage of "here are some different
>> intervals based on use" in between.
>
> I would be happier if the computer gave me even a few simple options for
> explaining whether I was a conservative worrywart who wanted a very
> conservative interval, or whatever.
>
Easily done. Just change your oil at some point early in the countdown.
Personally I change the oil when the oil life monitor is around 20%
left to go. Ta da, a safety margin.
John