I was wondering if anyone knows with certainty what factors are used in
the oil life indicator. Obviously, mileage or cumulative RPMs is one of
them. But I would think that there are others like temperature, total
engine running time, and maybe length of time since the indicator was
last reset. I'd be interested to hear if anyone knows for sure.

 

Things positively known:

- RPM speed/duration
- idle time
- engine temperature

The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
dino or synthetic.

Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
miles, regardless of what the OLM says.

 

Things positively known:

- RPM speed/duration
- idle time
- engine temperature

The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
dino or synthetic.

Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
miles, regardless of what the OLM says.

 

Things positively known:

- RPM speed/duration
- idle time
- engine temperature

The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
dino or synthetic.

Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
miles, regardless of what the OLM says.

 

"televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1158036960.760313.304920@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com...
> Things positively known:
>
> - RPM speed/duration
> - idle time
> - engine temperature
>
> The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
> detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
> dino or synthetic.
>
> Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
> miles, regardless of what the OLM says.

But what is that advice based on? I use dino oil (or really whatever
synth-blend is currently offered) and change my oil every 7000 to 7500. At
165,000 miles, my Accord is still going strong.

Changing synthetic every 5000 won't hurt anything on a mechanical level, but
it sure takes away a good deal of economical value by shifting the expense
to over-frequent oil changes.

 

"televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1158036960.760313.304920@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com...
> Things positively known:
>
> - RPM speed/duration
> - idle time
> - engine temperature
>
> The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
> detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
> dino or synthetic.
>
> Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
> miles, regardless of what the OLM says.

But what is that advice based on? I use dino oil (or really whatever
synth-blend is currently offered) and change my oil every 7000 to 7500. At
165,000 miles, my Accord is still going strong.

Changing synthetic every 5000 won't hurt anything on a mechanical level, but
it sure takes away a good deal of economical value by shifting the expense
to over-frequent oil changes.

 

"televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1158036960.760313.304920@m73g2000cwd.googlegr oups.com...
> Things positively known:
>
> - RPM speed/duration
> - idle time
> - engine temperature
>
> The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
> detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
> dino or synthetic.
>
> Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
> miles, regardless of what the OLM says.

But what is that advice based on? I use dino oil (or really whatever
synth-blend is currently offered) and change my oil every 7000 to 7500. At
165,000 miles, my Accord is still going strong.

Changing synthetic every 5000 won't hurt anything on a mechanical level, but
it sure takes away a good deal of economical value by shifting the expense
to over-frequent oil changes.

 

televascular wrote:
> Things positively known:
>
> - RPM speed/duration
> - idle time
> - engine temperature
>
> The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
> detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
> dino or synthetic.
>
> Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
> miles, regardless of what the OLM says.
>

Based on what? Are you saying that you have put more research into this
topic then Honda's engineering team has?

Your advice sounds like little more than a repetition of conventional
wisdom. Usually what "everyone knows" is at best incomplete and often
simply wrong.

John

 

televascular wrote:
> Things positively known:
>
> - RPM speed/duration
> - idle time
> - engine temperature
>
> The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
> detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
> dino or synthetic.
>
> Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
> miles, regardless of what the OLM says.
>

Based on what? Are you saying that you have put more research into this
topic then Honda's engineering team has?

Your advice sounds like little more than a repetition of conventional
wisdom. Usually what "everyone knows" is at best incomplete and often
simply wrong.

John

 

televascular wrote:
> Things positively known:
>
> - RPM speed/duration
> - idle time
> - engine temperature
>
> The OLM does NOT measure the oil directly; that is to say, it cannot
> detect how "dirty" the oil is, nor can it tell the difference between
> dino or synthetic.
>
> Please, follow my advice: use synthetic and change your oil every 5,000
> miles, regardless of what the OLM says.
>

Based on what? Are you saying that you have put more research into this
topic then Honda's engineering team has?

Your advice sounds like little more than a repetition of conventional
wisdom. Usually what "everyone knows" is at best incomplete and often
simply wrong.

John

 

While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
ownership". After 5,000mi on conventional oil, the EP and AW additives
in the oil break down and the engine is running on a minimal level of
protection. The Molybdenum/Phosphurous content settles out of
suspension, and the engine may utilize ZDDP (a zinc additive) as its
last line of defense against metal-to-metal contact. When the oil is in
a weakened state, varnish begins to form; if you go even further,
sludge becomes a serious issue. While a 7,500mi OCI is okay for the
average cost-sensitive consumer, it is unacceptable to car enthusiasts.

A synthetic blend is not a good way to go. It is just regular oil with
synthetic additives, making up about 20% of the total volume. You
should either stick to conventional oil (for lower cost and near-equal
performance) or full synthetic (for superior protection). I highly
recommend Mobil 1 full synth or equivalent. I am also against boutique
synthetic oil companies, such as Redline or Amsoil; their prices are
nearly double the average synthetic for a small increase in
performance. It is totally unnecessary unless your engine will be
seeing race conditions.

Also, I should point out that there is no solid evidence that synthetic
oils are capable of lasting much longer than conventional oils. Many
companies sell "15,000mi OCI" oils because they have complete faith in
synthetic products; however, most industry professionals agree this
extended OCI concept has not yet been proven. The same additives used
in dino oil are used here, and they break down at about the same rate.
Synthetic has better cleaning abilites and viscosity stability at high
temps due to a lab-made base stock, but it's no miracle product for
your engine. Save your money and get the standard full synthetic.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com and its forum,
http://theoildrop.server101.com are excellent places to learn about the
subject. There are many misconceptions about engine oil and its
capabilities, so learn up and buy smart.

 

While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
ownership". After 5,000mi on conventional oil, the EP and AW additives
in the oil break down and the engine is running on a minimal level of
protection. The Molybdenum/Phosphurous content settles out of
suspension, and the engine may utilize ZDDP (a zinc additive) as its
last line of defense against metal-to-metal contact. When the oil is in
a weakened state, varnish begins to form; if you go even further,
sludge becomes a serious issue. While a 7,500mi OCI is okay for the
average cost-sensitive consumer, it is unacceptable to car enthusiasts.

A synthetic blend is not a good way to go. It is just regular oil with
synthetic additives, making up about 20% of the total volume. You
should either stick to conventional oil (for lower cost and near-equal
performance) or full synthetic (for superior protection). I highly
recommend Mobil 1 full synth or equivalent. I am also against boutique
synthetic oil companies, such as Redline or Amsoil; their prices are
nearly double the average synthetic for a small increase in
performance. It is totally unnecessary unless your engine will be
seeing race conditions.

Also, I should point out that there is no solid evidence that synthetic
oils are capable of lasting much longer than conventional oils. Many
companies sell "15,000mi OCI" oils because they have complete faith in
synthetic products; however, most industry professionals agree this
extended OCI concept has not yet been proven. The same additives used
in dino oil are used here, and they break down at about the same rate.
Synthetic has better cleaning abilites and viscosity stability at high
temps due to a lab-made base stock, but it's no miracle product for
your engine. Save your money and get the standard full synthetic.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com and its forum,
http://theoildrop.server101.com are excellent places to learn about the
subject. There are many misconceptions about engine oil and its
capabilities, so learn up and buy smart.

 

While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I
assure you I have spent countless hours researching the topic. I do not
agree that a 5,000 oil change interval is "too frequent"; I reserve
that statement for those 3,000 OCI fanatics. Honda's OLM is very
liberal on oil life because they pride themselves in "low cost of
ownership". After 5,000mi on conventional oil, the EP and AW additives
in the oil break down and the engine is running on a minimal level of
protection. The Molybdenum/Phosphurous content settles out of
suspension, and the engine may utilize ZDDP (a zinc additive) as its
last line of defense against metal-to-metal contact. When the oil is in
a weakened state, varnish begins to form; if you go even further,
sludge becomes a serious issue. While a 7,500mi OCI is okay for the
average cost-sensitive consumer, it is unacceptable to car enthusiasts.

A synthetic blend is not a good way to go. It is just regular oil with
synthetic additives, making up about 20% of the total volume. You
should either stick to conventional oil (for lower cost and near-equal
performance) or full synthetic (for superior protection). I highly
recommend Mobil 1 full synth or equivalent. I am also against boutique
synthetic oil companies, such as Redline or Amsoil; their prices are
nearly double the average synthetic for a small increase in
performance. It is totally unnecessary unless your engine will be
seeing race conditions.

Also, I should point out that there is no solid evidence that synthetic
oils are capable of lasting much longer than conventional oils. Many
companies sell "15,000mi OCI" oils because they have complete faith in
synthetic products; however, most industry professionals agree this
extended OCI concept has not yet been proven. The same additives used
in dino oil are used here, and they break down at about the same rate.
Synthetic has better cleaning abilites and viscosity stability at high
temps due to a lab-made base stock, but it's no miracle product for
your engine. Save your money and get the standard full synthetic.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com and its forum,
http://theoildrop.server101.com are excellent places to learn about the
subject. There are many misconceptions about engine oil and its
capabilities, so learn up and buy smart.

 

"televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1158304939.059000.130920@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I

<SNIP>

And yet none of what you say takes any REAL WORLD factors into account. How
about at what percentage the oil spends at optimum operating temperature vs.
"warming up"? Someone who takes many short trips, hardly ever completing
warm up will "spoil the oil" much faster (i.e. in less miles) than someone
who drives many highway miles in a single trip. The first person spends say
10% at operating temperature while the second spends 90% at operating
temperature. This is a MAJOR factor and yet you don't take it into account
at all when you give a BLIND recommendation of "change oil every 5000
miles". To not take all the factors that oil life depends on into account
is total bunk. Even the Honda manual, before the oil minder computer system
at least gave 2 major scenarios. Normal and severe driving. The oil life
minder takes the rest of the important factors that you choose to ignore
into account.

To give a recommendation without knowing all the factors is like pulling
numbers out of air. Yeah, 3 or 5k is a safe guideline that will hurt
nothing but ones wallet. But to give a REAL guideline (what the oil life
minder systems is programmed to do) many factors are required. You want to
**** extra money away, go for it. But try not to tell other people how to
spend their money unless you factor in all the variables, otherwise it's
advice no better than the fortune card you get at the carnival for $.25.

 

"televascular" <televascular@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1158304939.059000.130920@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> While I understand your hesitation to follow my advice blindly, I

<SNIP>

And yet none of what you say takes any REAL WORLD factors into account. How
about at what percentage the oil spends at optimum operating temperature vs.
"warming up"? Someone who takes many short trips, hardly ever completing
warm up will "spoil the oil" much faster (i.e. in less miles) than someone
who drives many highway miles in a single trip. The first person spends say
10% at operating temperature while the second spends 90% at operating
temperature. This is a MAJOR factor and yet you don't take it into account
at all when you give a BLIND recommendation of "change oil every 5000
miles". To not take all the factors that oil life depends on into account
is total bunk. Even the Honda manual, before the oil minder computer system
at least gave 2 major scenarios. Normal and severe driving. The oil life
minder takes the rest of the important factors that you choose to ignore
into account.

To give a recommendation without knowing all the factors is like pulling
numbers out of air. Yeah, 3 or 5k is a safe guideline that will hurt
nothing but ones wallet. But to give a REAL guideline (what the oil life
minder systems is programmed to do) many factors are required. You want to
**** extra money away, go for it. But try not to tell other people how to
spend their money unless you factor in all the variables, otherwise it's
advice no better than the fortune card you get at the carnival for $.25.