Victory for now vs. Check engine light!
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Victory for now vs. Check engine light!
I have a CP9175, and it's worth its weight in gold. Went in with my cousin
and split the cost.
Now for your problem. I would go back to the dealer and explain this and
ask for my damn money back since they DID NOT solve the problem. Hell, they
probably just reset the code and sent you on your way.
G-Man
<sacstinkytiger@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1159055505.721557.53920@i3g2000cwc.googlegrou ps.com...
> Hi,
>
> I thought I would just share with people a small victory ... I think at
> least for now. A few months ago my check engine light came on. Took it,
> Honda Civic 1999, LX 4 -Dr-Automatic, to White Plains Honda to have
> them check it out. Before then panicking and putting in a load of oil
> just in case ... had no clue..... $US 105 later, they charged me $US 95
> + tax, it was a loose gas cap. They reset the codes, light is out
>
> Fast forward 2 months, light comes on again. Hmm.... should I pay
> another $105 and be told it may be a gas cap..... I read the Honda
> Users manual and they say drive it around for another 3 days / cycles
> and see if it goes out. Drive around for a three days, no adverse
> affects but light still on. I order a Actron CP9175 from Amazon for $US
> 144.95. This is one of those ODBII reader / scanners.
>
> A week later and the Check engine light is till on. Actron arrives
> Saturday. Plug in the Actron an see two codes P1336 and a P1337. These
> are honda proprietory codes. P1336 means intermittant misfire or Cental
> Speed Fluctuation (the "CSF") sensor failure, i.e. RPM fluctuation
> sensor on the blink. P1337 means no signal from CSF sensor. So looked
> like had an intermittiant falt then it went all together.
>
> Anyways clear the codes by hitting erase. Cool lights out. Start car
> and for a brief 2 seconds light stays off. Then comes on again..... uh
> ohhh not good.
>
> So go onto the net, and also look into the Honda Factory manual. For my
> Honda it turns out that the CSF sensor is on the left hand side of the
> engine bay car near all the belts. Go and take a look. Nothing wrong
> there. And besides it is realy really cramped. Everything is cramed in
> there. Look again... hey there is a plastic cable run rubbling against
> one of the belts. Eeekk the belt has sawn though the outer coveing.
> This was the cable to the CFK sensor. Reach down to see and notice a
> plastic clip. Push the wire back into the clip. Clear codes restart
> engine.
>
> Bingo no light!
>
> Maybe it will hold, maybe it will not. I guess the wire has been worn
> half way through by the belt. When I stuffed the wire back into the
> clip, what remains still was sufficient to send signal. Maybe the belt
> wizzing by was shorting out the signal .... Who knows how long it will
> last, the cable housing was ripped up.
>
> So for now anyway novice idiot mechanic 1, Honda Gremlins 0.
>
> Warmest regards, Mike.
>
and split the cost.
Now for your problem. I would go back to the dealer and explain this and
ask for my damn money back since they DID NOT solve the problem. Hell, they
probably just reset the code and sent you on your way.
G-Man
<sacstinkytiger@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1159055505.721557.53920@i3g2000cwc.googlegrou ps.com...
> Hi,
>
> I thought I would just share with people a small victory ... I think at
> least for now. A few months ago my check engine light came on. Took it,
> Honda Civic 1999, LX 4 -Dr-Automatic, to White Plains Honda to have
> them check it out. Before then panicking and putting in a load of oil
> just in case ... had no clue..... $US 105 later, they charged me $US 95
> + tax, it was a loose gas cap. They reset the codes, light is out
>
> Fast forward 2 months, light comes on again. Hmm.... should I pay
> another $105 and be told it may be a gas cap..... I read the Honda
> Users manual and they say drive it around for another 3 days / cycles
> and see if it goes out. Drive around for a three days, no adverse
> affects but light still on. I order a Actron CP9175 from Amazon for $US
> 144.95. This is one of those ODBII reader / scanners.
>
> A week later and the Check engine light is till on. Actron arrives
> Saturday. Plug in the Actron an see two codes P1336 and a P1337. These
> are honda proprietory codes. P1336 means intermittant misfire or Cental
> Speed Fluctuation (the "CSF") sensor failure, i.e. RPM fluctuation
> sensor on the blink. P1337 means no signal from CSF sensor. So looked
> like had an intermittiant falt then it went all together.
>
> Anyways clear the codes by hitting erase. Cool lights out. Start car
> and for a brief 2 seconds light stays off. Then comes on again..... uh
> ohhh not good.
>
> So go onto the net, and also look into the Honda Factory manual. For my
> Honda it turns out that the CSF sensor is on the left hand side of the
> engine bay car near all the belts. Go and take a look. Nothing wrong
> there. And besides it is realy really cramped. Everything is cramed in
> there. Look again... hey there is a plastic cable run rubbling against
> one of the belts. Eeekk the belt has sawn though the outer coveing.
> This was the cable to the CFK sensor. Reach down to see and notice a
> plastic clip. Push the wire back into the clip. Clear codes restart
> engine.
>
> Bingo no light!
>
> Maybe it will hold, maybe it will not. I guess the wire has been worn
> half way through by the belt. When I stuffed the wire back into the
> clip, what remains still was sufficient to send signal. Maybe the belt
> wizzing by was shorting out the signal .... Who knows how long it will
> last, the cable housing was ripped up.
>
> So for now anyway novice idiot mechanic 1, Honda Gremlins 0.
>
> Warmest regards, Mike.
>
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Victory for now vs. Check engine light!
Hi Woody,
Thanks for your tip. I think you are right. Problem is the access. I
would love to get down there and fix it up correctly. I just cannot get
at the wire. In the Honda factory manual, the CDF / CKF sensor
replacement requires the removal of the engine cover, and quite a few
other bits and pieces, this then gives you the required access...
I think if it does not hold, then then I will have to get it fixed
professionally .... unless you know of some other trick..... I am just
a normal basically ... have no clue ... sort of owner.
Best, Mike.
Woody wrote:
> Now increase your status from a novice mechanic by going back and do the
> repair right. The wire has to be repaired and the area insulated or moisture
> and salt will get in the wire and corrode it. First remove the negative lead
> off the battery to prevent damage by shorting the power. If it is a single
> wire in the bundle damaged pull it out some and cut it and strip the ends.
> Use a butt connector of the correct size to connect the two ends. Use a good
> electrical tape to wrap the area several times to keep out moisture. Now
> make sure the cable is in it's clamps and inspect all other cables for
> proper routing. Now you can pat yourself on the back.
>
>
> <sacstinkytiger@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1159055505.721557.53920@i3g2000cwc.googlegrou ps.com...
> > Hi,
> >
> > I thought I would just share with people a small victory ... I think at
> > least for now. A few months ago my check engine light came on. Took it,
> > Honda Civic 1999, LX 4 -Dr-Automatic, to White Plains Honda to have
> > them check it out. Before then panicking and putting in a load of oil
> > just in case ... had no clue..... $US 105 later, they charged me $US 95
> > + tax, it was a loose gas cap. They reset the codes, light is out
> >
> > Fast forward 2 months, light comes on again. Hmm.... should I pay
> > another $105 and be told it may be a gas cap..... I read the Honda
> > Users manual and they say drive it around for another 3 days / cycles
> > and see if it goes out. Drive around for a three days, no adverse
> > affects but light still on. I order a Actron CP9175 from Amazon for $US
> > 144.95. This is one of those ODBII reader / scanners.
> >
> > A week later and the Check engine light is till on. Actron arrives
> > Saturday. Plug in the Actron an see two codes P1336 and a P1337. These
> > are honda proprietory codes. P1336 means intermittant misfire or Cental
> > Speed Fluctuation (the "CSF") sensor failure, i.e. RPM fluctuation
> > sensor on the blink. P1337 means no signal from CSF sensor. So looked
> > like had an intermittiant falt then it went all together.
> >
> > Anyways clear the codes by hitting erase. Cool lights out. Start car
> > and for a brief 2 seconds light stays off. Then comes on again..... uh
> > ohhh not good.
> >
> > So go onto the net, and also look into the Honda Factory manual. For my
> > Honda it turns out that the CSF sensor is on the left hand side of the
> > engine bay car near all the belts. Go and take a look. Nothing wrong
> > there. And besides it is realy really cramped. Everything is cramed in
> > there. Look again... hey there is a plastic cable run rubbling against
> > one of the belts. Eeekk the belt has sawn though the outer coveing.
> > This was the cable to the CFK sensor. Reach down to see and notice a
> > plastic clip. Push the wire back into the clip. Clear codes restart
> > engine.
> >
> > Bingo no light!
> >
> > Maybe it will hold, maybe it will not. I guess the wire has been worn
> > half way through by the belt. When I stuffed the wire back into the
> > clip, what remains still was sufficient to send signal. Maybe the belt
> > wizzing by was shorting out the signal .... Who knows how long it will
> > last, the cable housing was ripped up.
> >
> > So for now anyway novice idiot mechanic 1, Honda Gremlins 0.
> >
> > Warmest regards, Mike.
> >
Thanks for your tip. I think you are right. Problem is the access. I
would love to get down there and fix it up correctly. I just cannot get
at the wire. In the Honda factory manual, the CDF / CKF sensor
replacement requires the removal of the engine cover, and quite a few
other bits and pieces, this then gives you the required access...
I think if it does not hold, then then I will have to get it fixed
professionally .... unless you know of some other trick..... I am just
a normal basically ... have no clue ... sort of owner.
Best, Mike.
Woody wrote:
> Now increase your status from a novice mechanic by going back and do the
> repair right. The wire has to be repaired and the area insulated or moisture
> and salt will get in the wire and corrode it. First remove the negative lead
> off the battery to prevent damage by shorting the power. If it is a single
> wire in the bundle damaged pull it out some and cut it and strip the ends.
> Use a butt connector of the correct size to connect the two ends. Use a good
> electrical tape to wrap the area several times to keep out moisture. Now
> make sure the cable is in it's clamps and inspect all other cables for
> proper routing. Now you can pat yourself on the back.
>
>
> <sacstinkytiger@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1159055505.721557.53920@i3g2000cwc.googlegrou ps.com...
> > Hi,
> >
> > I thought I would just share with people a small victory ... I think at
> > least for now. A few months ago my check engine light came on. Took it,
> > Honda Civic 1999, LX 4 -Dr-Automatic, to White Plains Honda to have
> > them check it out. Before then panicking and putting in a load of oil
> > just in case ... had no clue..... $US 105 later, they charged me $US 95
> > + tax, it was a loose gas cap. They reset the codes, light is out
> >
> > Fast forward 2 months, light comes on again. Hmm.... should I pay
> > another $105 and be told it may be a gas cap..... I read the Honda
> > Users manual and they say drive it around for another 3 days / cycles
> > and see if it goes out. Drive around for a three days, no adverse
> > affects but light still on. I order a Actron CP9175 from Amazon for $US
> > 144.95. This is one of those ODBII reader / scanners.
> >
> > A week later and the Check engine light is till on. Actron arrives
> > Saturday. Plug in the Actron an see two codes P1336 and a P1337. These
> > are honda proprietory codes. P1336 means intermittant misfire or Cental
> > Speed Fluctuation (the "CSF") sensor failure, i.e. RPM fluctuation
> > sensor on the blink. P1337 means no signal from CSF sensor. So looked
> > like had an intermittiant falt then it went all together.
> >
> > Anyways clear the codes by hitting erase. Cool lights out. Start car
> > and for a brief 2 seconds light stays off. Then comes on again..... uh
> > ohhh not good.
> >
> > So go onto the net, and also look into the Honda Factory manual. For my
> > Honda it turns out that the CSF sensor is on the left hand side of the
> > engine bay car near all the belts. Go and take a look. Nothing wrong
> > there. And besides it is realy really cramped. Everything is cramed in
> > there. Look again... hey there is a plastic cable run rubbling against
> > one of the belts. Eeekk the belt has sawn though the outer coveing.
> > This was the cable to the CFK sensor. Reach down to see and notice a
> > plastic clip. Push the wire back into the clip. Clear codes restart
> > engine.
> >
> > Bingo no light!
> >
> > Maybe it will hold, maybe it will not. I guess the wire has been worn
> > half way through by the belt. When I stuffed the wire back into the
> > clip, what remains still was sufficient to send signal. Maybe the belt
> > wizzing by was shorting out the signal .... Who knows how long it will
> > last, the cable housing was ripped up.
> >
> > So for now anyway novice idiot mechanic 1, Honda Gremlins 0.
> >
> > Warmest regards, Mike.
> >
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Victory for now vs. Check engine light!
Hi Woody,
Thanks for your tip. I think you are right. Problem is the access. I
would love to get down there and fix it up correctly. I just cannot get
at the wire. In the Honda factory manual, the CDF / CKF sensor
replacement requires the removal of the engine cover, and quite a few
other bits and pieces, this then gives you the required access...
I think if it does not hold, then then I will have to get it fixed
professionally .... unless you know of some other trick..... I am just
a normal basically ... have no clue ... sort of owner.
Best, Mike.
Woody wrote:
> Now increase your status from a novice mechanic by going back and do the
> repair right. The wire has to be repaired and the area insulated or moisture
> and salt will get in the wire and corrode it. First remove the negative lead
> off the battery to prevent damage by shorting the power. If it is a single
> wire in the bundle damaged pull it out some and cut it and strip the ends.
> Use a butt connector of the correct size to connect the two ends. Use a good
> electrical tape to wrap the area several times to keep out moisture. Now
> make sure the cable is in it's clamps and inspect all other cables for
> proper routing. Now you can pat yourself on the back.
>
>
> <sacstinkytiger@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1159055505.721557.53920@i3g2000cwc.googlegrou ps.com...
> > Hi,
> >
> > I thought I would just share with people a small victory ... I think at
> > least for now. A few months ago my check engine light came on. Took it,
> > Honda Civic 1999, LX 4 -Dr-Automatic, to White Plains Honda to have
> > them check it out. Before then panicking and putting in a load of oil
> > just in case ... had no clue..... $US 105 later, they charged me $US 95
> > + tax, it was a loose gas cap. They reset the codes, light is out
> >
> > Fast forward 2 months, light comes on again. Hmm.... should I pay
> > another $105 and be told it may be a gas cap..... I read the Honda
> > Users manual and they say drive it around for another 3 days / cycles
> > and see if it goes out. Drive around for a three days, no adverse
> > affects but light still on. I order a Actron CP9175 from Amazon for $US
> > 144.95. This is one of those ODBII reader / scanners.
> >
> > A week later and the Check engine light is till on. Actron arrives
> > Saturday. Plug in the Actron an see two codes P1336 and a P1337. These
> > are honda proprietory codes. P1336 means intermittant misfire or Cental
> > Speed Fluctuation (the "CSF") sensor failure, i.e. RPM fluctuation
> > sensor on the blink. P1337 means no signal from CSF sensor. So looked
> > like had an intermittiant falt then it went all together.
> >
> > Anyways clear the codes by hitting erase. Cool lights out. Start car
> > and for a brief 2 seconds light stays off. Then comes on again..... uh
> > ohhh not good.
> >
> > So go onto the net, and also look into the Honda Factory manual. For my
> > Honda it turns out that the CSF sensor is on the left hand side of the
> > engine bay car near all the belts. Go and take a look. Nothing wrong
> > there. And besides it is realy really cramped. Everything is cramed in
> > there. Look again... hey there is a plastic cable run rubbling against
> > one of the belts. Eeekk the belt has sawn though the outer coveing.
> > This was the cable to the CFK sensor. Reach down to see and notice a
> > plastic clip. Push the wire back into the clip. Clear codes restart
> > engine.
> >
> > Bingo no light!
> >
> > Maybe it will hold, maybe it will not. I guess the wire has been worn
> > half way through by the belt. When I stuffed the wire back into the
> > clip, what remains still was sufficient to send signal. Maybe the belt
> > wizzing by was shorting out the signal .... Who knows how long it will
> > last, the cable housing was ripped up.
> >
> > So for now anyway novice idiot mechanic 1, Honda Gremlins 0.
> >
> > Warmest regards, Mike.
> >
Thanks for your tip. I think you are right. Problem is the access. I
would love to get down there and fix it up correctly. I just cannot get
at the wire. In the Honda factory manual, the CDF / CKF sensor
replacement requires the removal of the engine cover, and quite a few
other bits and pieces, this then gives you the required access...
I think if it does not hold, then then I will have to get it fixed
professionally .... unless you know of some other trick..... I am just
a normal basically ... have no clue ... sort of owner.
Best, Mike.
Woody wrote:
> Now increase your status from a novice mechanic by going back and do the
> repair right. The wire has to be repaired and the area insulated or moisture
> and salt will get in the wire and corrode it. First remove the negative lead
> off the battery to prevent damage by shorting the power. If it is a single
> wire in the bundle damaged pull it out some and cut it and strip the ends.
> Use a butt connector of the correct size to connect the two ends. Use a good
> electrical tape to wrap the area several times to keep out moisture. Now
> make sure the cable is in it's clamps and inspect all other cables for
> proper routing. Now you can pat yourself on the back.
>
>
> <sacstinkytiger@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1159055505.721557.53920@i3g2000cwc.googlegrou ps.com...
> > Hi,
> >
> > I thought I would just share with people a small victory ... I think at
> > least for now. A few months ago my check engine light came on. Took it,
> > Honda Civic 1999, LX 4 -Dr-Automatic, to White Plains Honda to have
> > them check it out. Before then panicking and putting in a load of oil
> > just in case ... had no clue..... $US 105 later, they charged me $US 95
> > + tax, it was a loose gas cap. They reset the codes, light is out
> >
> > Fast forward 2 months, light comes on again. Hmm.... should I pay
> > another $105 and be told it may be a gas cap..... I read the Honda
> > Users manual and they say drive it around for another 3 days / cycles
> > and see if it goes out. Drive around for a three days, no adverse
> > affects but light still on. I order a Actron CP9175 from Amazon for $US
> > 144.95. This is one of those ODBII reader / scanners.
> >
> > A week later and the Check engine light is till on. Actron arrives
> > Saturday. Plug in the Actron an see two codes P1336 and a P1337. These
> > are honda proprietory codes. P1336 means intermittant misfire or Cental
> > Speed Fluctuation (the "CSF") sensor failure, i.e. RPM fluctuation
> > sensor on the blink. P1337 means no signal from CSF sensor. So looked
> > like had an intermittiant falt then it went all together.
> >
> > Anyways clear the codes by hitting erase. Cool lights out. Start car
> > and for a brief 2 seconds light stays off. Then comes on again..... uh
> > ohhh not good.
> >
> > So go onto the net, and also look into the Honda Factory manual. For my
> > Honda it turns out that the CSF sensor is on the left hand side of the
> > engine bay car near all the belts. Go and take a look. Nothing wrong
> > there. And besides it is realy really cramped. Everything is cramed in
> > there. Look again... hey there is a plastic cable run rubbling against
> > one of the belts. Eeekk the belt has sawn though the outer coveing.
> > This was the cable to the CFK sensor. Reach down to see and notice a
> > plastic clip. Push the wire back into the clip. Clear codes restart
> > engine.
> >
> > Bingo no light!
> >
> > Maybe it will hold, maybe it will not. I guess the wire has been worn
> > half way through by the belt. When I stuffed the wire back into the
> > clip, what remains still was sufficient to send signal. Maybe the belt
> > wizzing by was shorting out the signal .... Who knows how long it will
> > last, the cable housing was ripped up.
> >
> > So for now anyway novice idiot mechanic 1, Honda Gremlins 0.
> >
> > Warmest regards, Mike.
> >
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Victory for now vs. Check engine light!
Hi Woody,
Thanks for your tip. I think you are right. Problem is the access. I
would love to get down there and fix it up correctly. I just cannot get
at the wire. In the Honda factory manual, the CDF / CKF sensor
replacement requires the removal of the engine cover, and quite a few
other bits and pieces, this then gives you the required access...
I think if it does not hold, then then I will have to get it fixed
professionally .... unless you know of some other trick..... I am just
a normal basically ... have no clue ... sort of owner.
Best, Mike.
Woody wrote:
> Now increase your status from a novice mechanic by going back and do the
> repair right. The wire has to be repaired and the area insulated or moisture
> and salt will get in the wire and corrode it. First remove the negative lead
> off the battery to prevent damage by shorting the power. If it is a single
> wire in the bundle damaged pull it out some and cut it and strip the ends.
> Use a butt connector of the correct size to connect the two ends. Use a good
> electrical tape to wrap the area several times to keep out moisture. Now
> make sure the cable is in it's clamps and inspect all other cables for
> proper routing. Now you can pat yourself on the back.
>
>
> <sacstinkytiger@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1159055505.721557.53920@i3g2000cwc.googlegrou ps.com...
> > Hi,
> >
> > I thought I would just share with people a small victory ... I think at
> > least for now. A few months ago my check engine light came on. Took it,
> > Honda Civic 1999, LX 4 -Dr-Automatic, to White Plains Honda to have
> > them check it out. Before then panicking and putting in a load of oil
> > just in case ... had no clue..... $US 105 later, they charged me $US 95
> > + tax, it was a loose gas cap. They reset the codes, light is out
> >
> > Fast forward 2 months, light comes on again. Hmm.... should I pay
> > another $105 and be told it may be a gas cap..... I read the Honda
> > Users manual and they say drive it around for another 3 days / cycles
> > and see if it goes out. Drive around for a three days, no adverse
> > affects but light still on. I order a Actron CP9175 from Amazon for $US
> > 144.95. This is one of those ODBII reader / scanners.
> >
> > A week later and the Check engine light is till on. Actron arrives
> > Saturday. Plug in the Actron an see two codes P1336 and a P1337. These
> > are honda proprietory codes. P1336 means intermittant misfire or Cental
> > Speed Fluctuation (the "CSF") sensor failure, i.e. RPM fluctuation
> > sensor on the blink. P1337 means no signal from CSF sensor. So looked
> > like had an intermittiant falt then it went all together.
> >
> > Anyways clear the codes by hitting erase. Cool lights out. Start car
> > and for a brief 2 seconds light stays off. Then comes on again..... uh
> > ohhh not good.
> >
> > So go onto the net, and also look into the Honda Factory manual. For my
> > Honda it turns out that the CSF sensor is on the left hand side of the
> > engine bay car near all the belts. Go and take a look. Nothing wrong
> > there. And besides it is realy really cramped. Everything is cramed in
> > there. Look again... hey there is a plastic cable run rubbling against
> > one of the belts. Eeekk the belt has sawn though the outer coveing.
> > This was the cable to the CFK sensor. Reach down to see and notice a
> > plastic clip. Push the wire back into the clip. Clear codes restart
> > engine.
> >
> > Bingo no light!
> >
> > Maybe it will hold, maybe it will not. I guess the wire has been worn
> > half way through by the belt. When I stuffed the wire back into the
> > clip, what remains still was sufficient to send signal. Maybe the belt
> > wizzing by was shorting out the signal .... Who knows how long it will
> > last, the cable housing was ripped up.
> >
> > So for now anyway novice idiot mechanic 1, Honda Gremlins 0.
> >
> > Warmest regards, Mike.
> >
Thanks for your tip. I think you are right. Problem is the access. I
would love to get down there and fix it up correctly. I just cannot get
at the wire. In the Honda factory manual, the CDF / CKF sensor
replacement requires the removal of the engine cover, and quite a few
other bits and pieces, this then gives you the required access...
I think if it does not hold, then then I will have to get it fixed
professionally .... unless you know of some other trick..... I am just
a normal basically ... have no clue ... sort of owner.
Best, Mike.
Woody wrote:
> Now increase your status from a novice mechanic by going back and do the
> repair right. The wire has to be repaired and the area insulated or moisture
> and salt will get in the wire and corrode it. First remove the negative lead
> off the battery to prevent damage by shorting the power. If it is a single
> wire in the bundle damaged pull it out some and cut it and strip the ends.
> Use a butt connector of the correct size to connect the two ends. Use a good
> electrical tape to wrap the area several times to keep out moisture. Now
> make sure the cable is in it's clamps and inspect all other cables for
> proper routing. Now you can pat yourself on the back.
>
>
> <sacstinkytiger@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1159055505.721557.53920@i3g2000cwc.googlegrou ps.com...
> > Hi,
> >
> > I thought I would just share with people a small victory ... I think at
> > least for now. A few months ago my check engine light came on. Took it,
> > Honda Civic 1999, LX 4 -Dr-Automatic, to White Plains Honda to have
> > them check it out. Before then panicking and putting in a load of oil
> > just in case ... had no clue..... $US 105 later, they charged me $US 95
> > + tax, it was a loose gas cap. They reset the codes, light is out
> >
> > Fast forward 2 months, light comes on again. Hmm.... should I pay
> > another $105 and be told it may be a gas cap..... I read the Honda
> > Users manual and they say drive it around for another 3 days / cycles
> > and see if it goes out. Drive around for a three days, no adverse
> > affects but light still on. I order a Actron CP9175 from Amazon for $US
> > 144.95. This is one of those ODBII reader / scanners.
> >
> > A week later and the Check engine light is till on. Actron arrives
> > Saturday. Plug in the Actron an see two codes P1336 and a P1337. These
> > are honda proprietory codes. P1336 means intermittant misfire or Cental
> > Speed Fluctuation (the "CSF") sensor failure, i.e. RPM fluctuation
> > sensor on the blink. P1337 means no signal from CSF sensor. So looked
> > like had an intermittiant falt then it went all together.
> >
> > Anyways clear the codes by hitting erase. Cool lights out. Start car
> > and for a brief 2 seconds light stays off. Then comes on again..... uh
> > ohhh not good.
> >
> > So go onto the net, and also look into the Honda Factory manual. For my
> > Honda it turns out that the CSF sensor is on the left hand side of the
> > engine bay car near all the belts. Go and take a look. Nothing wrong
> > there. And besides it is realy really cramped. Everything is cramed in
> > there. Look again... hey there is a plastic cable run rubbling against
> > one of the belts. Eeekk the belt has sawn though the outer coveing.
> > This was the cable to the CFK sensor. Reach down to see and notice a
> > plastic clip. Push the wire back into the clip. Clear codes restart
> > engine.
> >
> > Bingo no light!
> >
> > Maybe it will hold, maybe it will not. I guess the wire has been worn
> > half way through by the belt. When I stuffed the wire back into the
> > clip, what remains still was sufficient to send signal. Maybe the belt
> > wizzing by was shorting out the signal .... Who knows how long it will
> > last, the cable housing was ripped up.
> >
> > So for now anyway novice idiot mechanic 1, Honda Gremlins 0.
> >
> > Warmest regards, Mike.
> >
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