Upper rad hose - 2000 Accord 4cyl.
#1
Guest
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Upper rad hose - 2000 Accord 4cyl.
Hi,
I need to replace the upper rad hose on my 2000 Accord (small leak at
the housing). Are there any particular issues or precautions in doing
this repair? I will be using an OEM hose; are OEM clamps worth it
too?
Thanks!
I need to replace the upper rad hose on my 2000 Accord (small leak at
the housing). Are there any particular issues or precautions in doing
this repair? I will be using an OEM hose; are OEM clamps worth it
too?
Thanks!
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Upper rad hose - 2000 Accord 4cyl.
aviatorc wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I need to replace the upper rad hose on my 2000 Accord (small leak at
> the housing).
check it's the hose, not the radiator. the latter tend to go at about
the 10 year mark. and it can get real expensive if you ignore it.
blown radiator typically means you'll fry the head gasket, and that
costs lotsabucks.
> Are there any particular issues or precautions in doing
> this repair? I will be using an OEM hose; are OEM clamps worth it
> too?
what's wrong with re-using the original clamps? yes, oem are the best fit.
>
> Thanks!
> Hi,
>
> I need to replace the upper rad hose on my 2000 Accord (small leak at
> the housing).
check it's the hose, not the radiator. the latter tend to go at about
the 10 year mark. and it can get real expensive if you ignore it.
blown radiator typically means you'll fry the head gasket, and that
costs lotsabucks.
> Are there any particular issues or precautions in doing
> this repair? I will be using an OEM hose; are OEM clamps worth it
> too?
what's wrong with re-using the original clamps? yes, oem are the best fit.
>
> Thanks!
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Upper rad hose - 2000 Accord 4cyl.
> check it's the hose, not the radiator. the latter tend to go at about
> the 10 year mark. and it can get real expensive if you ignore it.
> blown radiator typically means you'll fry the head gasket, and that
> costs lotsabucks.
>
> > Are there any particular issues or precautions in doing
> > this repair? I will be using an OEM hose; are OEM clamps worth it
> > too?
>
> what's wrong with re-using the original clamps? yes, oem are the best fit.
It's a small drip at the t-stat housing, so definitely not the rad.
Thanks!
> the 10 year mark. and it can get real expensive if you ignore it.
> blown radiator typically means you'll fry the head gasket, and that
> costs lotsabucks.
>
> > Are there any particular issues or precautions in doing
> > this repair? I will be using an OEM hose; are OEM clamps worth it
> > too?
>
> what's wrong with re-using the original clamps? yes, oem are the best fit.
It's a small drip at the t-stat housing, so definitely not the rad.
Thanks!
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Upper rad hose - 2000 Accord 4cyl.
aviatorc <aviator.c@gmail.com> wrote in news:fb3ffc7a-ce88-42b4-bc97-
ac2789dd58aa@r28g2000vbp.googlegroups.com:
>> check it's the hose, not the radiator. the latter tend to go at about
>> the 10 year mark. and it can get real expensive if you ignore it.
>> blown radiator typically means you'll fry the head gasket, and that
>> costs lotsabucks.
>>
>> > Are there any particular issues or precautions in doing
>> > this repair? I will be using an OEM hose; are OEM clamps worth it
>> > too?
>>
>> what's wrong with re-using the original clamps? yes, oem are the best
> fit.
>
>
> It's a small drip at the t-stat housing, so definitely not the rad.
>
> Thanks!
The thermostat is at the engine end of the LOWER rad hose. Is the leak from
the join between the two housing halves, or is it at the hose end?
Anyway, replace BOTH rad hoses, not just the one. Use some fine emery cloth
to clean the housing stub of any corrosion. And use a bit of coolant (or
spit) as a lube to help the new hose slip on.
Re-use the OEM clamps. They prevent you from wrecking the new hoses, which
just about everybody does when using aftermarket screw-type clamps (just a
leeetle tighter...).
The lower hose is best replaced by first removing the rad from the car.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
ac2789dd58aa@r28g2000vbp.googlegroups.com:
>> check it's the hose, not the radiator. the latter tend to go at about
>> the 10 year mark. and it can get real expensive if you ignore it.
>> blown radiator typically means you'll fry the head gasket, and that
>> costs lotsabucks.
>>
>> > Are there any particular issues or precautions in doing
>> > this repair? I will be using an OEM hose; are OEM clamps worth it
>> > too?
>>
>> what's wrong with re-using the original clamps? yes, oem are the best
> fit.
>
>
> It's a small drip at the t-stat housing, so definitely not the rad.
>
> Thanks!
The thermostat is at the engine end of the LOWER rad hose. Is the leak from
the join between the two housing halves, or is it at the hose end?
Anyway, replace BOTH rad hoses, not just the one. Use some fine emery cloth
to clean the housing stub of any corrosion. And use a bit of coolant (or
spit) as a lube to help the new hose slip on.
Re-use the OEM clamps. They prevent you from wrecking the new hoses, which
just about everybody does when using aftermarket screw-type clamps (just a
leeetle tighter...).
The lower hose is best replaced by first removing the rad from the car.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
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