Jim Yanik wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> dex3703 wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>>
>>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>>
>>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>>> failures like this going forward?
>> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
>> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
>> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
>> sensor.
>
> Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...

having done it both ways, i say doing it on the vehicle without removing
the throttle body [dpfi] /is/ the easiest way. use a chisel to start
the shear bolts rotating, and robert's your mother's brother.

>
>> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
>> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.
>
> I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
> The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.

doesn't work - it's utterly sealed.

>
>> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
>> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.
>

 

Jim Yanik wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> dex3703 wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>>
>>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>>
>>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>>> failures like this going forward?
>> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
>> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
>> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
>> sensor.
>
> Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...

having done it both ways, i say doing it on the vehicle without removing
the throttle body [dpfi] /is/ the easiest way. use a chisel to start
the shear bolts rotating, and robert's your mother's brother.

>
>> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
>> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.
>
> I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
> The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.

doesn't work - it's utterly sealed.

>
>> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
>> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.
>

 

Jim Yanik wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> dex3703 wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>>
>>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>>
>>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>>> failures like this going forward?
>> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
>> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
>> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
>> sensor.
>
> Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...

having done it both ways, i say doing it on the vehicle without removing
the throttle body [dpfi] /is/ the easiest way. use a chisel to start
the shear bolts rotating, and robert's your mother's brother.

>
>> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
>> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.
>
> I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
> The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.

doesn't work - it's utterly sealed.

>
>> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
>> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.
>

 

jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:1LCdnfX7uZpu7CjYnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:

> Jim Yanik wrote:
>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>> news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>
>>> dex3703 wrote:
>>>> Hi all,
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>>>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>>>
>>>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>>>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>>>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>>>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>>>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>>>
>>>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>>>> failures like this going forward?
>>> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
>>> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
>>> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
>>> sensor.
>>
>> Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...
>
> having done it both ways, i say doing it on the vehicle without removing
> the throttle body [dpfi] /is/ the easiest way. use a chisel to start
> the shear bolts rotating, and robert's your mother's brother.

I meant replacing the sensor being easier instead of repairing it.
(then replacing it anyways...IF you can find a new TPS to install w/o
buying the whole throttle body.)

Not removing the whole TB being easier.
>
>>
>>> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
>>> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.
>>
>> I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
>> The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.
>
> doesn't work - it's utterly sealed.

You said "splaying the brush so it contacts a wider track inside,"
indicating YOU got it open for access,so the element CAN be sprayed.
It just has to be opened up first.
It might get you by until you can get a new TPS from somewhere shipped in.
I doubt spraying it would be a lasting repair.

(of course,you could always drill a tiny access hole for the spray tube,and
seal it with a piece of electrical tape to keep dirt out,if you learn where
it's safe to drill.)

>
>>
>>> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
>>> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.
>>


Curious;did you find a place to buy a NEW TPS(other then a dealer),or did
you salvage one from a junkyard part? (sensor only,not a whole throttle
body)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:1LCdnfX7uZpu7CjYnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:

> Jim Yanik wrote:
>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>> news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>
>>> dex3703 wrote:
>>>> Hi all,
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>>>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>>>
>>>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>>>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>>>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>>>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>>>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>>>
>>>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>>>> failures like this going forward?
>>> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
>>> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
>>> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
>>> sensor.
>>
>> Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...
>
> having done it both ways, i say doing it on the vehicle without removing
> the throttle body [dpfi] /is/ the easiest way. use a chisel to start
> the shear bolts rotating, and robert's your mother's brother.

I meant replacing the sensor being easier instead of repairing it.
(then replacing it anyways...IF you can find a new TPS to install w/o
buying the whole throttle body.)

Not removing the whole TB being easier.
>
>>
>>> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
>>> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.
>>
>> I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
>> The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.
>
> doesn't work - it's utterly sealed.

You said "splaying the brush so it contacts a wider track inside,"
indicating YOU got it open for access,so the element CAN be sprayed.
It just has to be opened up first.
It might get you by until you can get a new TPS from somewhere shipped in.
I doubt spraying it would be a lasting repair.

(of course,you could always drill a tiny access hole for the spray tube,and
seal it with a piece of electrical tape to keep dirt out,if you learn where
it's safe to drill.)

>
>>
>>> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
>>> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.
>>


Curious;did you find a place to buy a NEW TPS(other then a dealer),or did
you salvage one from a junkyard part? (sensor only,not a whole throttle
body)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:1LCdnfX7uZpu7CjYnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:

> Jim Yanik wrote:
>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>> news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>
>>> dex3703 wrote:
>>>> Hi all,
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>>>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>>>
>>>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>>>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>>>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>>>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>>>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>>>
>>>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>>>> failures like this going forward?
>>> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
>>> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
>>> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
>>> sensor.
>>
>> Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...
>
> having done it both ways, i say doing it on the vehicle without removing
> the throttle body [dpfi] /is/ the easiest way. use a chisel to start
> the shear bolts rotating, and robert's your mother's brother.

I meant replacing the sensor being easier instead of repairing it.
(then replacing it anyways...IF you can find a new TPS to install w/o
buying the whole throttle body.)

Not removing the whole TB being easier.
>
>>
>>> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
>>> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.
>>
>> I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
>> The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.
>
> doesn't work - it's utterly sealed.

You said "splaying the brush so it contacts a wider track inside,"
indicating YOU got it open for access,so the element CAN be sprayed.
It just has to be opened up first.
It might get you by until you can get a new TPS from somewhere shipped in.
I doubt spraying it would be a lasting repair.

(of course,you could always drill a tiny access hole for the spray tube,and
seal it with a piece of electrical tape to keep dirt out,if you learn where
it's safe to drill.)

>
>>
>>> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
>>> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.
>>


Curious;did you find a place to buy a NEW TPS(other then a dealer),or did
you salvage one from a junkyard part? (sensor only,not a whole throttle
body)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
news:1LCdnfX7uZpu7CjYnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:

> Jim Yanik wrote:
>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>> news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>
>>> dex3703 wrote:
>>>> Hi all,
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>>>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>>>
>>>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>>>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>>>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>>>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>>>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>>>
>>>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>>>> failures like this going forward?
>>> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
>>> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
>>> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
>>> sensor.
>>
>> Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...
>
> having done it both ways, i say doing it on the vehicle without removing
> the throttle body [dpfi] /is/ the easiest way. use a chisel to start
> the shear bolts rotating, and robert's your mother's brother.

I meant replacing the sensor being easier instead of repairing it.
(then replacing it anyways...IF you can find a new TPS to install w/o
buying the whole throttle body.)

Not removing the whole TB being easier.
>
>>
>>> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
>>> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.
>>
>> I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
>> The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.
>
> doesn't work - it's utterly sealed.

You said "splaying the brush so it contacts a wider track inside,"
indicating YOU got it open for access,so the element CAN be sprayed.
It just has to be opened up first.
It might get you by until you can get a new TPS from somewhere shipped in.
I doubt spraying it would be a lasting repair.

(of course,you could always drill a tiny access hole for the spray tube,and
seal it with a piece of electrical tape to keep dirt out,if you learn where
it's safe to drill.)

>
>>
>>> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
>>> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.
>>


Curious;did you find a place to buy a NEW TPS(other then a dealer),or did
you salvage one from a junkyard part? (sensor only,not a whole throttle
body)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

Jim Yanik wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:1LCdnfX7uZpu7CjYnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> Jim Yanik wrote:
>>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>>> news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>>
>>>> dex3703 wrote:
>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>>>>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>>>>
>>>>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>>>>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>>>>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>>>>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>>>>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>>>>
>>>>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>>>>> failures like this going forward?
>>>> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
>>>> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
>>>> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
>>>> sensor.
>>> Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...
>> having done it both ways, i say doing it on the vehicle without removing
>> the throttle body [dpfi] /is/ the easiest way. use a chisel to start
>> the shear bolts rotating, and robert's your mother's brother.
>
> I meant replacing the sensor being easier instead of repairing it.
> (then replacing it anyways...IF you can find a new TPS to install w/o
> buying the whole throttle body.)

right, replacement is the way to go. if you use a junker, seek out the
automatics as donors.

>
> Not removing the whole TB being easier.
>>>> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
>>>> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.
>>> I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
>>> The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.
>> doesn't work - it's utterly sealed.
>
> You said "splaying the brush so it contacts a wider track inside,"
> indicating YOU got it open for access,so the element CAN be sprayed.

first time, i painstakingly dremeled it open - it took ages. this was
before i realized you could remove a sensor from a junker in about 5
minutes. once you have it open, you can completely disassemble and
clean - no spray required.

> It just has to be opened up first.
> It might get you by until you can get a new TPS from somewhere shipped in.
> I doubt spraying it would be a lasting repair.

if you can buy new, i'd love to know where from!

>
> (of course,you could always drill a tiny access hole for the spray tube,and
> seal it with a piece of electrical tape to keep dirt out,if you learn where
> it's safe to drill.)

good luck! i still don't think it'll work because on mine, the carbon
track appeared worn through - spray won't fix that.

>
>>>> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
>>>> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.
>
>
> Curious;did you find a place to buy a NEW TPS(other then a dealer),or did
> you salvage one from a junkyard part? (sensor only,not a whole throttle
> body)

junk yard - sensor only. it's literally 5 minutes - all you need is a
small hammer and a small [sharp] chisel. use the chisel to nudge the
shear nuts around so they turn by hand. on the dpfi it really is a
piece of cake. on the 4pfi, it's much harder as it's all behind the
manifold.

 

Jim Yanik wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:1LCdnfX7uZpu7CjYnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> Jim Yanik wrote:
>>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>>> news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>>
>>>> dex3703 wrote:
>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>>>>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>>>>
>>>>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>>>>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>>>>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>>>>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>>>>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>>>>
>>>>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>>>>> failures like this going forward?
>>>> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
>>>> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
>>>> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
>>>> sensor.
>>> Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...
>> having done it both ways, i say doing it on the vehicle without removing
>> the throttle body [dpfi] /is/ the easiest way. use a chisel to start
>> the shear bolts rotating, and robert's your mother's brother.
>
> I meant replacing the sensor being easier instead of repairing it.
> (then replacing it anyways...IF you can find a new TPS to install w/o
> buying the whole throttle body.)

right, replacement is the way to go. if you use a junker, seek out the
automatics as donors.

>
> Not removing the whole TB being easier.
>>>> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
>>>> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.
>>> I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
>>> The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.
>> doesn't work - it's utterly sealed.
>
> You said "splaying the brush so it contacts a wider track inside,"
> indicating YOU got it open for access,so the element CAN be sprayed.

first time, i painstakingly dremeled it open - it took ages. this was
before i realized you could remove a sensor from a junker in about 5
minutes. once you have it open, you can completely disassemble and
clean - no spray required.

> It just has to be opened up first.
> It might get you by until you can get a new TPS from somewhere shipped in.
> I doubt spraying it would be a lasting repair.

if you can buy new, i'd love to know where from!

>
> (of course,you could always drill a tiny access hole for the spray tube,and
> seal it with a piece of electrical tape to keep dirt out,if you learn where
> it's safe to drill.)

good luck! i still don't think it'll work because on mine, the carbon
track appeared worn through - spray won't fix that.

>
>>>> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
>>>> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.
>
>
> Curious;did you find a place to buy a NEW TPS(other then a dealer),or did
> you salvage one from a junkyard part? (sensor only,not a whole throttle
> body)

junk yard - sensor only. it's literally 5 minutes - all you need is a
small hammer and a small [sharp] chisel. use the chisel to nudge the
shear nuts around so they turn by hand. on the dpfi it really is a
piece of cake. on the 4pfi, it's much harder as it's all behind the
manifold.

 

Jim Yanik wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:1LCdnfX7uZpu7CjYnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> Jim Yanik wrote:
>>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>>> news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>>
>>>> dex3703 wrote:
>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>>>>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>>>>
>>>>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>>>>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>>>>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>>>>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>>>>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>>>>
>>>>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>>>>> failures like this going forward?
>>>> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
>>>> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
>>>> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
>>>> sensor.
>>> Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...
>> having done it both ways, i say doing it on the vehicle without removing
>> the throttle body [dpfi] /is/ the easiest way. use a chisel to start
>> the shear bolts rotating, and robert's your mother's brother.
>
> I meant replacing the sensor being easier instead of repairing it.
> (then replacing it anyways...IF you can find a new TPS to install w/o
> buying the whole throttle body.)

right, replacement is the way to go. if you use a junker, seek out the
automatics as donors.

>
> Not removing the whole TB being easier.
>>>> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
>>>> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.
>>> I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
>>> The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.
>> doesn't work - it's utterly sealed.
>
> You said "splaying the brush so it contacts a wider track inside,"
> indicating YOU got it open for access,so the element CAN be sprayed.

first time, i painstakingly dremeled it open - it took ages. this was
before i realized you could remove a sensor from a junker in about 5
minutes. once you have it open, you can completely disassemble and
clean - no spray required.

> It just has to be opened up first.
> It might get you by until you can get a new TPS from somewhere shipped in.
> I doubt spraying it would be a lasting repair.

if you can buy new, i'd love to know where from!

>
> (of course,you could always drill a tiny access hole for the spray tube,and
> seal it with a piece of electrical tape to keep dirt out,if you learn where
> it's safe to drill.)

good luck! i still don't think it'll work because on mine, the carbon
track appeared worn through - spray won't fix that.

>
>>>> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
>>>> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.
>
>
> Curious;did you find a place to buy a NEW TPS(other then a dealer),or did
> you salvage one from a junkyard part? (sensor only,not a whole throttle
> body)

junk yard - sensor only. it's literally 5 minutes - all you need is a
small hammer and a small [sharp] chisel. use the chisel to nudge the
shear nuts around so they turn by hand. on the dpfi it really is a
piece of cake. on the 4pfi, it's much harder as it's all behind the
manifold.

 

Jim Yanik wrote:
> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
> news:1LCdnfX7uZpu7CjYnZ2dnUVZ_tadnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>
>> Jim Yanik wrote:
>>> jim beam <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in
>>> news:xPqdnRKW25XOVCnYnZ2dnUVZ_qarnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>>
>>>> dex3703 wrote:
>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for the responses. Yes, it is a code 7. I read elsewhere on
>>>>> the group that this code is generally reliable.
>>>>>
>>>>> The problem has been over the last couple months, with the code set
>>>>> last week. I presume this would explain the bogging, dropping revs
>>>>> and seeming to konk out. It especially happens (when it does) when
>>>>> I'm at whatever speed I want, and then let off the gas. The problem
>>>>> is intermittent but does seem to be getting generally worse.
>>>>>
>>>>> I guess I'll tackle this next weekend then. Should I expect weird
>>>>> failures like this going forward?
>>>> the sensor has a carbon track that wears in the place where you most
>>>> commonly put the throttle while driving. if you disassemble the
>>>> sensor, you can see it. easiest solution is to replace the whole
>>>> sensor.
>>> Best solution,maybe not the "easiest"...
>> having done it both ways, i say doing it on the vehicle without removing
>> the throttle body [dpfi] /is/ the easiest way. use a chisel to start
>> the shear bolts rotating, and robert's your mother's brother.
>
> I meant replacing the sensor being easier instead of repairing it.
> (then replacing it anyways...IF you can find a new TPS to install w/o
> buying the whole throttle body.)

right, replacement is the way to go. if you use a junker, seek out the
automatics as donors.

>
> Not removing the whole TB being easier.
>>>> you can "repair" the sensor by splaying the brush so it
>>>> contacts a wider track inside, but it's a lot of effort.
>>> I suggest trying a electronic contact cleaner/lube spray.(lightly)
>>> The TPS is nothing more than a potentiometer.
>> doesn't work - it's utterly sealed.
>
> You said "splaying the brush so it contacts a wider track inside,"
> indicating YOU got it open for access,so the element CAN be sprayed.

first time, i painstakingly dremeled it open - it took ages. this was
before i realized you could remove a sensor from a junker in about 5
minutes. once you have it open, you can completely disassemble and
clean - no spray required.

> It just has to be opened up first.
> It might get you by until you can get a new TPS from somewhere shipped in.
> I doubt spraying it would be a lasting repair.

if you can buy new, i'd love to know where from!

>
> (of course,you could always drill a tiny access hole for the spray tube,and
> seal it with a piece of electrical tape to keep dirt out,if you learn where
> it's safe to drill.)

good luck! i still don't think it'll work because on mine, the carbon
track appeared worn through - spray won't fix that.

>
>>>> bottom line, replace and enjoy. symptoms are exactly as you describe.
>>>> once replaced, you'll be back to normal like nothing ever happened.
>
>
> Curious;did you find a place to buy a NEW TPS(other then a dealer),or did
> you salvage one from a junkyard part? (sensor only,not a whole throttle
> body)

junk yard - sensor only. it's literally 5 minutes - all you need is a
small hammer and a small [sharp] chisel. use the chisel to nudge the
shear nuts around so they turn by hand. on the dpfi it really is a
piece of cake. on the 4pfi, it's much harder as it's all behind the
manifold.