"Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
news:FxYph.26689$QU1.12472@newssvr22.news.prodigy. net...
>
>
> --
> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>
> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
> news:FLednW8Wl__9SDrYnZ2dnUVZ_s6onZ2d@sedona.net.. .
>> "Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
>> news:eBPph.19204$sR.2854@newssvr29.news.prodigy.ne t...
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>>>
>>> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
>>> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
>>> news:g4CdnX8AxJ1HCDrYnZ2dnUVZ_oHinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>>>> Guest wrote:
>>>>> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
>>>>> the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
>>>>> was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?
>>>>
>>>> how do you know it would melt?
>>>
>>> Well it melted twice now.
>>>
>>> how much current is it conducting?
>>>
>>> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.
>>>
>>
>> Let's start with the wire size. Locate the fuse the circuit is getting
>> power from. If the fuse is 5A or less, you can use 22 guage wire or
>> larger. At 10A use 18 guage wire or larger; for a 20A fuse use 16 guage
>> wire. The fuse exists to protect the wire, and if the wire is melting you
>> already have a problem.
>>
>> The LED bar itself should be drawing well under 5 amps. The overheating
>> wire is a good indication the wiring between the melted wire and the
>> light is bad; shorted or backward, that sort of thing.
>>
>> Both situations need to be corrected before you drive safely and happily.
>> Definitely get the wire size corrected, or you could have a car fire. No
>> fun.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>
> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced it
> with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the car in
> park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot thicker.
> Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another place to
> look at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to be auto
> wire or something specifically marked?
>
Back up one step. The fuse has to be changed back to what it was originally
because there was already wiring on the circuit. The fuse has to protect
that wire also. For example, if the original fuse was a 10A the existing
wiring would be sized for 10 amps... but with the overrated fuse in there it
could be subjected to twice that much current in the event of a fault. Twice
the current also means twice the voltage drop across the wire, so the wire
will get four times as hot before the fuse blows. Don't shrug this off;
notice the recent thread about the 2002 Civic destroyed by an electrical
fire.

Ordinary stranded, PVC jacketed wire is fine. Radio Shack probably carries
it as will many car parts stores. The guage should be at least as heavy as
the original fuse size dictates (from my earlier post).

As the others say, there is still something wrong with the LED if it blows
the original size fuse. They don't draw much current.

Mike

 

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"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:yNudna2MTMvlxjXYnZ2dnUVZ_qrinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> Guest wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced
>> it with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the
>> car in park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot
>> thicker. Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another
>> place to look at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to
>> be auto wire or something specifically marked?
>
> dude, it's not the freakin' wire, it's the freakin' unit. led's draw
> /very/ little current. skinny wire works just fine /if/ the led's are
> fine. go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will
> disappear.

Oh, so how do I go about that? Do I need to get a new LED?

 

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"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:yNudna2MTMvlxjXYnZ2dnUVZ_qrinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> Guest wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced
>> it with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the
>> car in park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot
>> thicker. Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another
>> place to look at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to
>> be auto wire or something specifically marked?
>
> dude, it's not the freakin' wire, it's the freakin' unit. led's draw
> /very/ little current. skinny wire works just fine /if/ the led's are
> fine. go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will
> disappear.

Oh, so how do I go about that? Do I need to get a new LED?

 

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"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:yNudna2MTMvlxjXYnZ2dnUVZ_qrinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> Guest wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced
>> it with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the
>> car in park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot
>> thicker. Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another
>> place to look at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to
>> be auto wire or something specifically marked?
>
> dude, it's not the freakin' wire, it's the freakin' unit. led's draw
> /very/ little current. skinny wire works just fine /if/ the led's are
> fine. go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will
> disappear.

Oh, so how do I go about that? Do I need to get a new LED?

 

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"jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
news:yNudna2MTMvlxjXYnZ2dnUVZ_qrinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
> Guest wrote:
>>
>> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced
>> it with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the
>> car in park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot
>> thicker. Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another
>> place to look at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to
>> be auto wire or something specifically marked?
>
> dude, it's not the freakin' wire, it's the freakin' unit. led's draw
> /very/ little current. skinny wire works just fine /if/ the led's are
> fine. go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will
> disappear.

Oh, so how do I go about that? Do I need to get a new LED?

 

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"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
news:q9ednZsrSrrjIDXYnZ2dnUVZ_rylnZ2d@sedona.net.. .
> "Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
> news:FxYph.26689$QU1.12472@newssvr22.news.prodigy. net...
>>
>>
>> --
>> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>>
>> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
>> news:FLednW8Wl__9SDrYnZ2dnUVZ_s6onZ2d@sedona.net.. .
>>> "Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
>>> news:eBPph.19204$sR.2854@newssvr29.news.prodigy.ne t...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>>>>
>>>> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
>>>> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:g4CdnX8AxJ1HCDrYnZ2dnUVZ_oHinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>>>>> Guest wrote:
>>>>>> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light
>>>>>> on the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED
>>>>>> wire was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?
>>>>>
>>>>> how do you know it would melt?
>>>>
>>>> Well it melted twice now.
>>>>
>>>> how much current is it conducting?
>>>>
>>>> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Let's start with the wire size. Locate the fuse the circuit is getting
>>> power from. If the fuse is 5A or less, you can use 22 guage wire or
>>> larger. At 10A use 18 guage wire or larger; for a 20A fuse use 16 guage
>>> wire. The fuse exists to protect the wire, and if the wire is melting
>>> you already have a problem.
>>>
>>> The LED bar itself should be drawing well under 5 amps. The overheating
>>> wire is a good indication the wiring between the melted wire and the
>>> light is bad; shorted or backward, that sort of thing.
>>>
>>> Both situations need to be corrected before you drive safely and
>>> happily. Definitely get the wire size corrected, or you could have a car
>>> fire. No fun.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>
>> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced
>> it with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the
>> car in park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot
>> thicker. Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another
>> place to look at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to
>> be auto wire or something specifically marked?
>>
> Back up one step. The fuse has to be changed back to what it was
> originally because there was already wiring on the circuit. The fuse has
> to protect that wire also. For example, if the original fuse was a 10A the
> existing wiring would be sized for 10 amps... but with the overrated fuse
> in there it could be subjected to twice that much current in the event of
> a fault. Twice the current also means twice the voltage drop across the
> wire, so the wire will get four times as hot before the fuse blows. Don't
> shrug this off; notice the recent thread about the 2002 Civic destroyed by
> an electrical fire.
>
> Ordinary stranded, PVC jacketed wire is fine. Radio Shack probably carries
> it as will many car parts stores. The guage should be at least as heavy as
> the original fuse size dictates (from my earlier post).
>
> As the others say, there is still something wrong with the LED if it blows
> the original size fuse. They don't draw much current.
>
> Mike
>

So I guess I might just buy a new one. The guy I bought it from on Ebay has
been kicked off. He offered a lifetime warranty, but you need a return
authorization number first, but it is impossible to contact him via email or
phone. They are Exotic Truck and Auto Gear. Damn them! I should have
bought Honda OEM like I started to...

 

--
This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com

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"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
news:q9ednZsrSrrjIDXYnZ2dnUVZ_rylnZ2d@sedona.net.. .
> "Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
> news:FxYph.26689$QU1.12472@newssvr22.news.prodigy. net...
>>
>>
>> --
>> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>>
>> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
>> news:FLednW8Wl__9SDrYnZ2dnUVZ_s6onZ2d@sedona.net.. .
>>> "Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
>>> news:eBPph.19204$sR.2854@newssvr29.news.prodigy.ne t...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>>>>
>>>> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
>>>> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:g4CdnX8AxJ1HCDrYnZ2dnUVZ_oHinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>>>>> Guest wrote:
>>>>>> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light
>>>>>> on the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED
>>>>>> wire was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?
>>>>>
>>>>> how do you know it would melt?
>>>>
>>>> Well it melted twice now.
>>>>
>>>> how much current is it conducting?
>>>>
>>>> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Let's start with the wire size. Locate the fuse the circuit is getting
>>> power from. If the fuse is 5A or less, you can use 22 guage wire or
>>> larger. At 10A use 18 guage wire or larger; for a 20A fuse use 16 guage
>>> wire. The fuse exists to protect the wire, and if the wire is melting
>>> you already have a problem.
>>>
>>> The LED bar itself should be drawing well under 5 amps. The overheating
>>> wire is a good indication the wiring between the melted wire and the
>>> light is bad; shorted or backward, that sort of thing.
>>>
>>> Both situations need to be corrected before you drive safely and
>>> happily. Definitely get the wire size corrected, or you could have a car
>>> fire. No fun.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>
>> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced
>> it with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the
>> car in park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot
>> thicker. Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another
>> place to look at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to
>> be auto wire or something specifically marked?
>>
> Back up one step. The fuse has to be changed back to what it was
> originally because there was already wiring on the circuit. The fuse has
> to protect that wire also. For example, if the original fuse was a 10A the
> existing wiring would be sized for 10 amps... but with the overrated fuse
> in there it could be subjected to twice that much current in the event of
> a fault. Twice the current also means twice the voltage drop across the
> wire, so the wire will get four times as hot before the fuse blows. Don't
> shrug this off; notice the recent thread about the 2002 Civic destroyed by
> an electrical fire.
>
> Ordinary stranded, PVC jacketed wire is fine. Radio Shack probably carries
> it as will many car parts stores. The guage should be at least as heavy as
> the original fuse size dictates (from my earlier post).
>
> As the others say, there is still something wrong with the LED if it blows
> the original size fuse. They don't draw much current.
>
> Mike
>

So I guess I might just buy a new one. The guy I bought it from on Ebay has
been kicked off. He offered a lifetime warranty, but you need a return
authorization number first, but it is impossible to contact him via email or
phone. They are Exotic Truck and Auto Gear. Damn them! I should have
bought Honda OEM like I started to...

 

--
This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com

http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
news:q9ednZsrSrrjIDXYnZ2dnUVZ_rylnZ2d@sedona.net.. .
> "Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
> news:FxYph.26689$QU1.12472@newssvr22.news.prodigy. net...
>>
>>
>> --
>> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>>
>> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
>> news:FLednW8Wl__9SDrYnZ2dnUVZ_s6onZ2d@sedona.net.. .
>>> "Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
>>> news:eBPph.19204$sR.2854@newssvr29.news.prodigy.ne t...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>>>>
>>>> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
>>>> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:g4CdnX8AxJ1HCDrYnZ2dnUVZ_oHinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>>>>> Guest wrote:
>>>>>> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light
>>>>>> on the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED
>>>>>> wire was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?
>>>>>
>>>>> how do you know it would melt?
>>>>
>>>> Well it melted twice now.
>>>>
>>>> how much current is it conducting?
>>>>
>>>> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Let's start with the wire size. Locate the fuse the circuit is getting
>>> power from. If the fuse is 5A or less, you can use 22 guage wire or
>>> larger. At 10A use 18 guage wire or larger; for a 20A fuse use 16 guage
>>> wire. The fuse exists to protect the wire, and if the wire is melting
>>> you already have a problem.
>>>
>>> The LED bar itself should be drawing well under 5 amps. The overheating
>>> wire is a good indication the wiring between the melted wire and the
>>> light is bad; shorted or backward, that sort of thing.
>>>
>>> Both situations need to be corrected before you drive safely and
>>> happily. Definitely get the wire size corrected, or you could have a car
>>> fire. No fun.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>
>> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced
>> it with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the
>> car in park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot
>> thicker. Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another
>> place to look at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to
>> be auto wire or something specifically marked?
>>
> Back up one step. The fuse has to be changed back to what it was
> originally because there was already wiring on the circuit. The fuse has
> to protect that wire also. For example, if the original fuse was a 10A the
> existing wiring would be sized for 10 amps... but with the overrated fuse
> in there it could be subjected to twice that much current in the event of
> a fault. Twice the current also means twice the voltage drop across the
> wire, so the wire will get four times as hot before the fuse blows. Don't
> shrug this off; notice the recent thread about the 2002 Civic destroyed by
> an electrical fire.
>
> Ordinary stranded, PVC jacketed wire is fine. Radio Shack probably carries
> it as will many car parts stores. The guage should be at least as heavy as
> the original fuse size dictates (from my earlier post).
>
> As the others say, there is still something wrong with the LED if it blows
> the original size fuse. They don't draw much current.
>
> Mike
>

So I guess I might just buy a new one. The guy I bought it from on Ebay has
been kicked off. He offered a lifetime warranty, but you need a return
authorization number first, but it is impossible to contact him via email or
phone. They are Exotic Truck and Auto Gear. Damn them! I should have
bought Honda OEM like I started to...

 

--
This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com

http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
news:q9ednZsrSrrjIDXYnZ2dnUVZ_rylnZ2d@sedona.net.. .
> "Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
> news:FxYph.26689$QU1.12472@newssvr22.news.prodigy. net...
>>
>>
>> --
>> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>>
>> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
>> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
>> news:FLednW8Wl__9SDrYnZ2dnUVZ_s6onZ2d@sedona.net.. .
>>> "Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
>>> news:eBPph.19204$sR.2854@newssvr29.news.prodigy.ne t...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>>>>
>>>> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
>>>> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:g4CdnX8AxJ1HCDrYnZ2dnUVZ_oHinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>>>>> Guest wrote:
>>>>>> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light
>>>>>> on the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED
>>>>>> wire was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?
>>>>>
>>>>> how do you know it would melt?
>>>>
>>>> Well it melted twice now.
>>>>
>>>> how much current is it conducting?
>>>>
>>>> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Let's start with the wire size. Locate the fuse the circuit is getting
>>> power from. If the fuse is 5A or less, you can use 22 guage wire or
>>> larger. At 10A use 18 guage wire or larger; for a 20A fuse use 16 guage
>>> wire. The fuse exists to protect the wire, and if the wire is melting
>>> you already have a problem.
>>>
>>> The LED bar itself should be drawing well under 5 amps. The overheating
>>> wire is a good indication the wiring between the melted wire and the
>>> light is bad; shorted or backward, that sort of thing.
>>>
>>> Both situations need to be corrected before you drive safely and
>>> happily. Definitely get the wire size corrected, or you could have a car
>>> fire. No fun.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>>
>>
>> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced
>> it with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the
>> car in park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot
>> thicker. Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another
>> place to look at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to
>> be auto wire or something specifically marked?
>>
> Back up one step. The fuse has to be changed back to what it was
> originally because there was already wiring on the circuit. The fuse has
> to protect that wire also. For example, if the original fuse was a 10A the
> existing wiring would be sized for 10 amps... but with the overrated fuse
> in there it could be subjected to twice that much current in the event of
> a fault. Twice the current also means twice the voltage drop across the
> wire, so the wire will get four times as hot before the fuse blows. Don't
> shrug this off; notice the recent thread about the 2002 Civic destroyed by
> an electrical fire.
>
> Ordinary stranded, PVC jacketed wire is fine. Radio Shack probably carries
> it as will many car parts stores. The guage should be at least as heavy as
> the original fuse size dictates (from my earlier post).
>
> As the others say, there is still something wrong with the LED if it blows
> the original size fuse. They don't draw much current.
>
> Mike
>

So I guess I might just buy a new one. The guy I bought it from on Ebay has
been kicked off. He offered a lifetime warranty, but you need a return
authorization number first, but it is impossible to contact him via email or
phone. They are Exotic Truck and Auto Gear. Damn them! I should have
bought Honda OEM like I started to...

 

Guest wrote:
> -- This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013 "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message news:yNudna2MTMvlxjXYnZ2dnUVZ_qrinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>> > Guest wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced
>>> >> it with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the
>>> >> car in park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot
>>> >> thicker. Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another
>>> >> place to look at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to
>>> >> be auto wire or something specifically marked?
>> >
>> > dude, it's not the freakin' wire, it's the freakin' unit. led's draw
>> > /very/ little current. skinny wire works just fine /if/ the led's are
>> > fine. go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will
>> > disappear.
>
> Oh, so how do I go about that? Do I need to get a new LED?
>
>
unless there's a simple "gotcha" like a shorted connection, yes.

 

Guest wrote:
> -- This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013 "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message news:yNudna2MTMvlxjXYnZ2dnUVZ_qrinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>> > Guest wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced
>>> >> it with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the
>>> >> car in park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot
>>> >> thicker. Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another
>>> >> place to look at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to
>>> >> be auto wire or something specifically marked?
>> >
>> > dude, it's not the freakin' wire, it's the freakin' unit. led's draw
>> > /very/ little current. skinny wire works just fine /if/ the led's are
>> > fine. go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will
>> > disappear.
>
> Oh, so how do I go about that? Do I need to get a new LED?
>
>
unless there's a simple "gotcha" like a shorted connection, yes.

 

Guest wrote:
> -- This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013 "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message news:yNudna2MTMvlxjXYnZ2dnUVZ_qrinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>> > Guest wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced
>>> >> it with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the
>>> >> car in park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot
>>> >> thicker. Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another
>>> >> place to look at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to
>>> >> be auto wire or something specifically marked?
>> >
>> > dude, it's not the freakin' wire, it's the freakin' unit. led's draw
>> > /very/ little current. skinny wire works just fine /if/ the led's are
>> > fine. go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will
>> > disappear.
>
> Oh, so how do I go about that? Do I need to get a new LED?
>
>
unless there's a simple "gotcha" like a shorted connection, yes.

 

Guest wrote:
> -- This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013 "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message news:yNudna2MTMvlxjXYnZ2dnUVZ_qrinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>> > Guest wrote:
>>> >>
>>> >> Thanks, that makes thing a lot clearer. When the fuse blew, I replaced
>>> >> it with a yellow 20A fuse. This also controlled the horn and left the
>>> >> car in park. What you write makes sense since the Honda wire is a lot
>>> >> thicker. Now, I went to Radio Shack looking for wire, is there another
>>> >> place to look at? Will any wire, 16 gauge do the job or does it have to
>>> >> be auto wire or something specifically marked?
>> >
>> > dude, it's not the freakin' wire, it's the freakin' unit. led's draw
>> > /very/ little current. skinny wire works just fine /if/ the led's are
>> > fine. go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will
>> > disappear.
>
> Oh, so how do I go about that? Do I need to get a new LED?
>
>
unless there's a simple "gotcha" like a shorted connection, yes.

 

"Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
news:mcuqh.59112$qO4.40438@newssvr13.news.prodigy. net...
>
>
> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
> news:yNudna2MTMvlxjXYnZ2dnUVZ_qrinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>>
>> dude, it's not the freakin' wire, it's the freakin' unit. led's draw
>> /very/ little current. skinny wire works just fine /if/ the led's are
>> fine. go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will
>> disappear.
>
> Oh, so how do I go about that? Do I need to get a new LED?
>
My guess is that the wire itself is shorted to ground, most likely where it
can be pinched or goes through a small hole. I'm not familiar with the
latest in LEDs, but for the most part the active device needs resistance in
series to limit current. That would probably prevent the LED from appearing
as a short on the supply.

Mike

 

"Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
news:mcuqh.59112$qO4.40438@newssvr13.news.prodigy. net...
>
>
> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
> news:yNudna2MTMvlxjXYnZ2dnUVZ_qrinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>>
>> dude, it's not the freakin' wire, it's the freakin' unit. led's draw
>> /very/ little current. skinny wire works just fine /if/ the led's are
>> fine. go fix the unit and suddenly all your wiring problems will
>> disappear.
>
> Oh, so how do I go about that? Do I need to get a new LED?
>
My guess is that the wire itself is shorted to ground, most likely where it
can be pinched or goes through a small hole. I'm not familiar with the
latest in LEDs, but for the most part the active device needs resistance in
series to limit current. That would probably prevent the LED from appearing
as a short on the supply.

Mike