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"Unquestionably Confused" <puzzled2@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:VgNph.33159$Gr2.2588@newssvr21.news.prodigy.n et...
> jim beam wrote:
>> Guest wrote:
>>> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
>>> the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
>>> was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?
>>
>> how do you know it would melt? how much current is it conducting?
>
> Uh, it COULD be due to the fact that he reverse connections earlier this
> month and blew a fuse. Then, after reconnecting it properly (he says), he
> had still more problems.
>
> Frankly, while I believe everyone should learn how to do this simple
> stuff, I'm glad he's "learning" on his own vehicle and not someone else's.
> I hope that's the case anyway.
>
> Search back on his posts. The best recommendation for him MIGHT be to
> find somebody who knows what they're doing and have them do it for
> him/her.
>

Well the Honda dealer would not touch it since it is an after market
spoiler. I also feel that the guy did not know anything since he had little
words. I think he was new.

All I am asking about are wire types or why this thin LED light wire keeps
melting. Right now I bought some in-line fuses to see what happens next.
After that I will not have any wire left to try it once more. Could wire
length have anything to do with it? This wire was very long.

 

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"Unquestionably Confused" <puzzled2@ameritech.net> wrote in message
news:VgNph.33159$Gr2.2588@newssvr21.news.prodigy.n et...
> jim beam wrote:
>> Guest wrote:
>>> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
>>> the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
>>> was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?
>>
>> how do you know it would melt? how much current is it conducting?
>
> Uh, it COULD be due to the fact that he reverse connections earlier this
> month and blew a fuse. Then, after reconnecting it properly (he says), he
> had still more problems.
>
> Frankly, while I believe everyone should learn how to do this simple
> stuff, I'm glad he's "learning" on his own vehicle and not someone else's.
> I hope that's the case anyway.
>
> Search back on his posts. The best recommendation for him MIGHT be to
> find somebody who knows what they're doing and have them do it for
> him/her.
>

Well the Honda dealer would not touch it since it is an after market
spoiler. I also feel that the guy did not know anything since he had little
words. I think he was new.

All I am asking about are wire types or why this thin LED light wire keeps
melting. Right now I bought some in-line fuses to see what happens next.
After that I will not have any wire left to try it once more. Could wire
length have anything to do with it? This wire was very long.

 

"Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
news:eBPph.19204$sR.2854@newssvr29.news.prodigy.ne t...
>
>
> --
> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>
> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
> news:g4CdnX8AxJ1HCDrYnZ2dnUVZ_oHinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>> Guest wrote:
>>> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
>>> the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
>>> was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?
>>
>> how do you know it would melt?
>
> Well it melted twice now.
>
> how much current is it conducting?
>
> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.
>

Let's start with the wire size. Locate the fuse the circuit is getting power
from. If the fuse is 5A or less, you can use 22 guage wire or larger. At 10A
use 18 guage wire or larger; for a 20A fuse use 16 guage wire. The fuse
exists to protect the wire, and if the wire is melting you already have a
problem.

The LED bar itself should be drawing well under 5 amps. The overheating wire
is a good indication the wiring between the melted wire and the light is
bad; shorted or backward, that sort of thing.

Both situations need to be corrected before you drive safely and happily.
Definitely get the wire size corrected, or you could have a car fire. No
fun.

Mike

 

"Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
news:eBPph.19204$sR.2854@newssvr29.news.prodigy.ne t...
>
>
> --
> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>
> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
> news:g4CdnX8AxJ1HCDrYnZ2dnUVZ_oHinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>> Guest wrote:
>>> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
>>> the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
>>> was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?
>>
>> how do you know it would melt?
>
> Well it melted twice now.
>
> how much current is it conducting?
>
> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.
>

Let's start with the wire size. Locate the fuse the circuit is getting power
from. If the fuse is 5A or less, you can use 22 guage wire or larger. At 10A
use 18 guage wire or larger; for a 20A fuse use 16 guage wire. The fuse
exists to protect the wire, and if the wire is melting you already have a
problem.

The LED bar itself should be drawing well under 5 amps. The overheating wire
is a good indication the wiring between the melted wire and the light is
bad; shorted or backward, that sort of thing.

Both situations need to be corrected before you drive safely and happily.
Definitely get the wire size corrected, or you could have a car fire. No
fun.

Mike

 

"Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
news:eBPph.19204$sR.2854@newssvr29.news.prodigy.ne t...
>
>
> --
> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>
> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
> news:g4CdnX8AxJ1HCDrYnZ2dnUVZ_oHinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>> Guest wrote:
>>> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
>>> the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
>>> was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?
>>
>> how do you know it would melt?
>
> Well it melted twice now.
>
> how much current is it conducting?
>
> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.
>

Let's start with the wire size. Locate the fuse the circuit is getting power
from. If the fuse is 5A or less, you can use 22 guage wire or larger. At 10A
use 18 guage wire or larger; for a 20A fuse use 16 guage wire. The fuse
exists to protect the wire, and if the wire is melting you already have a
problem.

The LED bar itself should be drawing well under 5 amps. The overheating wire
is a good indication the wiring between the melted wire and the light is
bad; shorted or backward, that sort of thing.

Both situations need to be corrected before you drive safely and happily.
Definitely get the wire size corrected, or you could have a car fire. No
fun.

Mike

 

"Guest" <llcoolj@comcast.com> wrote in message
news:eBPph.19204$sR.2854@newssvr29.news.prodigy.ne t...
>
>
> --
> This post is Sponsored by: www.overheadsoft.com
>
> http://www.linkreferral.com/cgi-bin/...oldrefid=20013
> "jim beam" <spamvortex@bad.example.net> wrote in message
> news:g4CdnX8AxJ1HCDrYnZ2dnUVZ_oHinZ2d@speakeasy.ne t...
>> Guest wrote:
>>> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
>>> the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
>>> was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?
>>
>> how do you know it would melt?
>
> Well it melted twice now.
>
> how much current is it conducting?
>
> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.
>

Let's start with the wire size. Locate the fuse the circuit is getting power
from. If the fuse is 5A or less, you can use 22 guage wire or larger. At 10A
use 18 guage wire or larger; for a 20A fuse use 16 guage wire. The fuse
exists to protect the wire, and if the wire is melting you already have a
problem.

The LED bar itself should be drawing well under 5 amps. The overheating wire
is a good indication the wiring between the melted wire and the light is
bad; shorted or backward, that sort of thing.

Both situations need to be corrected before you drive safely and happily.
Definitely get the wire size corrected, or you could have a car fire. No
fun.

Mike

 

On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 17:30:50 +0000, Guest wrote:

>> how much current is it conducting?

> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.

Your response is all the reason to believe that you should not be doing
this work yourself...

 

On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 17:30:50 +0000, Guest wrote:

>> how much current is it conducting?

> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.

Your response is all the reason to believe that you should not be doing
this work yourself...

 

On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 17:30:50 +0000, Guest wrote:

>> how much current is it conducting?

> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.

Your response is all the reason to believe that you should not be doing
this work yourself...

 

On Fri, 12 Jan 2007 17:30:50 +0000, Guest wrote:

>> how much current is it conducting?

> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.

Your response is all the reason to believe that you should not be doing
this work yourself...

 

Guest wrote:
> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
> the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
> was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?

----------------------------------

LED's are light-emitting DIODES, and if you've ever run juice through a
diode backwards, they may be shorted, which will keep on blowing up the
wiring, no matter if its thin or heavier.

Remove the + and ground connections from your car and try powering the
diodes directly from another 12 V source, like a different battery. Put
a fuse in the line (as you suggested) or just a tail light bulb (way
better), since the LED's are supposed to take way less current than a
light bulb and if the light comes on bright, you know the diodes are
indeed shorted to death.

Don't bother trying a battery charger as your power source. . many don't
put out any power unless they are connected to a half-ways alive battery.

'Curly'

 

Guest wrote:
> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
> the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
> was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?

----------------------------------

LED's are light-emitting DIODES, and if you've ever run juice through a
diode backwards, they may be shorted, which will keep on blowing up the
wiring, no matter if its thin or heavier.

Remove the + and ground connections from your car and try powering the
diodes directly from another 12 V source, like a different battery. Put
a fuse in the line (as you suggested) or just a tail light bulb (way
better), since the LED's are supposed to take way less current than a
light bulb and if the light comes on bright, you know the diodes are
indeed shorted to death.

Don't bother trying a battery charger as your power source. . many don't
put out any power unless they are connected to a half-ways alive battery.

'Curly'

 

Guest wrote:
> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
> the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
> was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?

----------------------------------

LED's are light-emitting DIODES, and if you've ever run juice through a
diode backwards, they may be shorted, which will keep on blowing up the
wiring, no matter if its thin or heavier.

Remove the + and ground connections from your car and try powering the
diodes directly from another 12 V source, like a different battery. Put
a fuse in the line (as you suggested) or just a tail light bulb (way
better), since the LED's are supposed to take way less current than a
light bulb and if the light comes on bright, you know the diodes are
indeed shorted to death.

Don't bother trying a battery charger as your power source. . many don't
put out any power unless they are connected to a half-ways alive battery.

'Curly'

 

Guest wrote:
> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
> the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire
> was so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?

----------------------------------

LED's are light-emitting DIODES, and if you've ever run juice through a
diode backwards, they may be shorted, which will keep on blowing up the
wiring, no matter if its thin or heavier.

Remove the + and ground connections from your car and try powering the
diodes directly from another 12 V source, like a different battery. Put
a fuse in the line (as you suggested) or just a tail light bulb (way
better), since the LED's are supposed to take way less current than a
light bulb and if the light comes on bright, you know the diodes are
indeed shorted to death.

Don't bother trying a battery charger as your power source. . many don't
put out any power unless they are connected to a half-ways alive battery.

'Curly'

 

> Guest wrote:
>>> >> What type of wire do you suggest using for wiring up the LED light on
>>> >> the spoiler? I need to solder a new wire on since the "OEM" LED wire was
>>> >> so thin that it would melt. Can I use copper speaker wire?
>> >
>> > how do you know it would melt?
>
> Well it melted twice now.
>
> how much current is it conducting?
>
> That, I am not sure about but it could be 12v.
>

ok, if the wire melted, there's something wrong with the light unit.
total current should be under 1 amp. well under. don't try re-wiring
it until you sort it out - probably replace it. as pointed out by mike,
failure to fix could lead to a car fire.

volts are different to amps.