Rough running 94 Accord
11-02-2006 | 09:32 AM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rough running 94 Accord
Jojo wrote:
>> that implies there's still a problem with the ignition. did you use
>> honda parts or aftermarket?
>
> These parts came from AutoZone.
> Got an idea?
So they are probably aftermarket. Bite the bullet and get OEM.
>> that implies there's still a problem with the ignition. did you use
>> honda parts or aftermarket?
>
> These parts came from AutoZone.
> Got an idea?
So they are probably aftermarket. Bite the bullet and get OEM.
11-02-2006 | 09:32 AM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rough running 94 Accord
Jojo wrote:
>> that implies there's still a problem with the ignition. did you use
>> honda parts or aftermarket?
>
> These parts came from AutoZone.
> Got an idea?
So they are probably aftermarket. Bite the bullet and get OEM.
>> that implies there's still a problem with the ignition. did you use
>> honda parts or aftermarket?
>
> These parts came from AutoZone.
> Got an idea?
So they are probably aftermarket. Bite the bullet and get OEM.
11-03-2006 | 08:55 PM
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rough running 94 Accord
Jojo wrote:
> Symptoms: car idles slow and misfires except when accelerating.
> Doesn't start sometimes after shutting down for a couple of minutes and
> sometimes stalls at traffic lights. It always starts after a minute or
> two. Sometimes there is a slight "grating" noise.
> I replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, ignitor, ignition coil, plugs,
> wires and fuel filter (and boy, was that filter hard to get out).
> When setting the timing, the timing light misses, i.e., it doesn't fire
> every time it should. That could be because it's old, but I don't
> think so. It was the reason I replaced some of the ignition parts.
> The ignition coil was out of spec, actually on what I consider the
> "good" side but not according to the shop manual.
> I have pulled out the "main" relay (from under the dash, beside the
> steering column) and the soldering looks perfect.
> The car has 105,000 miles. The timing belt has not been replaced.
> I have run two fuel injector treatments through the car.
> The "check engine" light is not illuminated.
> If they weren't so expensive, I'd replace the engine relays (especially
> in the fuel system).
> Got any good ideas?
> Jojo
>
--------------------------------------
Resolder the main relay, make sure the plugs are according to the spec
on the sticker (brand and model). Try running Gasohol through it for a
while. Is the coolant reservoir full enough?
12 years old, 105,000 MILES and ORIGINAL timing belt?
'Curly'
> Symptoms: car idles slow and misfires except when accelerating.
> Doesn't start sometimes after shutting down for a couple of minutes and
> sometimes stalls at traffic lights. It always starts after a minute or
> two. Sometimes there is a slight "grating" noise.
> I replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, ignitor, ignition coil, plugs,
> wires and fuel filter (and boy, was that filter hard to get out).
> When setting the timing, the timing light misses, i.e., it doesn't fire
> every time it should. That could be because it's old, but I don't
> think so. It was the reason I replaced some of the ignition parts.
> The ignition coil was out of spec, actually on what I consider the
> "good" side but not according to the shop manual.
> I have pulled out the "main" relay (from under the dash, beside the
> steering column) and the soldering looks perfect.
> The car has 105,000 miles. The timing belt has not been replaced.
> I have run two fuel injector treatments through the car.
> The "check engine" light is not illuminated.
> If they weren't so expensive, I'd replace the engine relays (especially
> in the fuel system).
> Got any good ideas?
> Jojo
>
--------------------------------------
Resolder the main relay, make sure the plugs are according to the spec
on the sticker (brand and model). Try running Gasohol through it for a
while. Is the coolant reservoir full enough?
12 years old, 105,000 MILES and ORIGINAL timing belt?
'Curly'
11-03-2006 | 08:55 PM
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rough running 94 Accord
Jojo wrote:
> Symptoms: car idles slow and misfires except when accelerating.
> Doesn't start sometimes after shutting down for a couple of minutes and
> sometimes stalls at traffic lights. It always starts after a minute or
> two. Sometimes there is a slight "grating" noise.
> I replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, ignitor, ignition coil, plugs,
> wires and fuel filter (and boy, was that filter hard to get out).
> When setting the timing, the timing light misses, i.e., it doesn't fire
> every time it should. That could be because it's old, but I don't
> think so. It was the reason I replaced some of the ignition parts.
> The ignition coil was out of spec, actually on what I consider the
> "good" side but not according to the shop manual.
> I have pulled out the "main" relay (from under the dash, beside the
> steering column) and the soldering looks perfect.
> The car has 105,000 miles. The timing belt has not been replaced.
> I have run two fuel injector treatments through the car.
> The "check engine" light is not illuminated.
> If they weren't so expensive, I'd replace the engine relays (especially
> in the fuel system).
> Got any good ideas?
> Jojo
>
--------------------------------------
Resolder the main relay, make sure the plugs are according to the spec
on the sticker (brand and model). Try running Gasohol through it for a
while. Is the coolant reservoir full enough?
12 years old, 105,000 MILES and ORIGINAL timing belt?
'Curly'
> Symptoms: car idles slow and misfires except when accelerating.
> Doesn't start sometimes after shutting down for a couple of minutes and
> sometimes stalls at traffic lights. It always starts after a minute or
> two. Sometimes there is a slight "grating" noise.
> I replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, ignitor, ignition coil, plugs,
> wires and fuel filter (and boy, was that filter hard to get out).
> When setting the timing, the timing light misses, i.e., it doesn't fire
> every time it should. That could be because it's old, but I don't
> think so. It was the reason I replaced some of the ignition parts.
> The ignition coil was out of spec, actually on what I consider the
> "good" side but not according to the shop manual.
> I have pulled out the "main" relay (from under the dash, beside the
> steering column) and the soldering looks perfect.
> The car has 105,000 miles. The timing belt has not been replaced.
> I have run two fuel injector treatments through the car.
> The "check engine" light is not illuminated.
> If they weren't so expensive, I'd replace the engine relays (especially
> in the fuel system).
> Got any good ideas?
> Jojo
>
--------------------------------------
Resolder the main relay, make sure the plugs are according to the spec
on the sticker (brand and model). Try running Gasohol through it for a
while. Is the coolant reservoir full enough?
12 years old, 105,000 MILES and ORIGINAL timing belt?
'Curly'
11-03-2006 | 08:55 PM
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rough running 94 Accord
Jojo wrote:
> Symptoms: car idles slow and misfires except when accelerating.
> Doesn't start sometimes after shutting down for a couple of minutes and
> sometimes stalls at traffic lights. It always starts after a minute or
> two. Sometimes there is a slight "grating" noise.
> I replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, ignitor, ignition coil, plugs,
> wires and fuel filter (and boy, was that filter hard to get out).
> When setting the timing, the timing light misses, i.e., it doesn't fire
> every time it should. That could be because it's old, but I don't
> think so. It was the reason I replaced some of the ignition parts.
> The ignition coil was out of spec, actually on what I consider the
> "good" side but not according to the shop manual.
> I have pulled out the "main" relay (from under the dash, beside the
> steering column) and the soldering looks perfect.
> The car has 105,000 miles. The timing belt has not been replaced.
> I have run two fuel injector treatments through the car.
> The "check engine" light is not illuminated.
> If they weren't so expensive, I'd replace the engine relays (especially
> in the fuel system).
> Got any good ideas?
> Jojo
>
--------------------------------------
Resolder the main relay, make sure the plugs are according to the spec
on the sticker (brand and model). Try running Gasohol through it for a
while. Is the coolant reservoir full enough?
12 years old, 105,000 MILES and ORIGINAL timing belt?
'Curly'
> Symptoms: car idles slow and misfires except when accelerating.
> Doesn't start sometimes after shutting down for a couple of minutes and
> sometimes stalls at traffic lights. It always starts after a minute or
> two. Sometimes there is a slight "grating" noise.
> I replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, ignitor, ignition coil, plugs,
> wires and fuel filter (and boy, was that filter hard to get out).
> When setting the timing, the timing light misses, i.e., it doesn't fire
> every time it should. That could be because it's old, but I don't
> think so. It was the reason I replaced some of the ignition parts.
> The ignition coil was out of spec, actually on what I consider the
> "good" side but not according to the shop manual.
> I have pulled out the "main" relay (from under the dash, beside the
> steering column) and the soldering looks perfect.
> The car has 105,000 miles. The timing belt has not been replaced.
> I have run two fuel injector treatments through the car.
> The "check engine" light is not illuminated.
> If they weren't so expensive, I'd replace the engine relays (especially
> in the fuel system).
> Got any good ideas?
> Jojo
>
--------------------------------------
Resolder the main relay, make sure the plugs are according to the spec
on the sticker (brand and model). Try running Gasohol through it for a
while. Is the coolant reservoir full enough?
12 years old, 105,000 MILES and ORIGINAL timing belt?
'Curly'
11-03-2006 | 08:55 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rough running 94 Accord
Jojo wrote:
> Symptoms: car idles slow and misfires except when accelerating.
> Doesn't start sometimes after shutting down for a couple of minutes and
> sometimes stalls at traffic lights. It always starts after a minute or
> two. Sometimes there is a slight "grating" noise.
> I replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, ignitor, ignition coil, plugs,
> wires and fuel filter (and boy, was that filter hard to get out).
> When setting the timing, the timing light misses, i.e., it doesn't fire
> every time it should. That could be because it's old, but I don't
> think so. It was the reason I replaced some of the ignition parts.
> The ignition coil was out of spec, actually on what I consider the
> "good" side but not according to the shop manual.
> I have pulled out the "main" relay (from under the dash, beside the
> steering column) and the soldering looks perfect.
> The car has 105,000 miles. The timing belt has not been replaced.
> I have run two fuel injector treatments through the car.
> The "check engine" light is not illuminated.
> If they weren't so expensive, I'd replace the engine relays (especially
> in the fuel system).
> Got any good ideas?
> Jojo
>
--------------------------------------
Resolder the main relay, make sure the plugs are according to the spec
on the sticker (brand and model). Try running Gasohol through it for a
while. Is the coolant reservoir full enough?
12 years old, 105,000 MILES and ORIGINAL timing belt?
'Curly'
> Symptoms: car idles slow and misfires except when accelerating.
> Doesn't start sometimes after shutting down for a couple of minutes and
> sometimes stalls at traffic lights. It always starts after a minute or
> two. Sometimes there is a slight "grating" noise.
> I replaced the distributor, cap, rotor, ignitor, ignition coil, plugs,
> wires and fuel filter (and boy, was that filter hard to get out).
> When setting the timing, the timing light misses, i.e., it doesn't fire
> every time it should. That could be because it's old, but I don't
> think so. It was the reason I replaced some of the ignition parts.
> The ignition coil was out of spec, actually on what I consider the
> "good" side but not according to the shop manual.
> I have pulled out the "main" relay (from under the dash, beside the
> steering column) and the soldering looks perfect.
> The car has 105,000 miles. The timing belt has not been replaced.
> I have run two fuel injector treatments through the car.
> The "check engine" light is not illuminated.
> If they weren't so expensive, I'd replace the engine relays (especially
> in the fuel system).
> Got any good ideas?
> Jojo
>
--------------------------------------
Resolder the main relay, make sure the plugs are according to the spec
on the sticker (brand and model). Try running Gasohol through it for a
while. Is the coolant reservoir full enough?
12 years old, 105,000 MILES and ORIGINAL timing belt?
'Curly'
11-03-2006 | 11:28 PM
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rough running 94 Accord
"Jojo" <oceanradio@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1162603485.157827.82250@m73g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com...
>I had hoped, by posting all the symptoms, to read of someone's
> diagnosis.
>
As High Tech Misfit says, it sounds like the sort of problems that
aftermarket ignition parts often cause in Hondas. I'm pretty stubborn, but
after being burned by aftermarket ignition parts (including plug wire sets)
I'm staying with OEM. When my son's aftermarket Acura rotor came apart in a
few months and chewed up the dust cap inside the distributor it was the last
straw. Before that it was a distributor cap that shorted one plug within a
couple hours of driving.
If you replace the cap and rotor (and wires, if they are aftermarket) with
OEM it will quite possibly work right; alternatively if you don't you run
the risk of it not working right even if you find and correct other
problems. The aftermarket parts can be kept as emergency spares; rough
running is better than no running.
Mike
news:1162603485.157827.82250@m73g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com...
>I had hoped, by posting all the symptoms, to read of someone's
> diagnosis.
>
As High Tech Misfit says, it sounds like the sort of problems that
aftermarket ignition parts often cause in Hondas. I'm pretty stubborn, but
after being burned by aftermarket ignition parts (including plug wire sets)
I'm staying with OEM. When my son's aftermarket Acura rotor came apart in a
few months and chewed up the dust cap inside the distributor it was the last
straw. Before that it was a distributor cap that shorted one plug within a
couple hours of driving.
If you replace the cap and rotor (and wires, if they are aftermarket) with
OEM it will quite possibly work right; alternatively if you don't you run
the risk of it not working right even if you find and correct other
problems. The aftermarket parts can be kept as emergency spares; rough
running is better than no running.
Mike
11-03-2006 | 11:28 PM
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rough running 94 Accord
"Jojo" <oceanradio@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1162603485.157827.82250@m73g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com...
>I had hoped, by posting all the symptoms, to read of someone's
> diagnosis.
>
As High Tech Misfit says, it sounds like the sort of problems that
aftermarket ignition parts often cause in Hondas. I'm pretty stubborn, but
after being burned by aftermarket ignition parts (including plug wire sets)
I'm staying with OEM. When my son's aftermarket Acura rotor came apart in a
few months and chewed up the dust cap inside the distributor it was the last
straw. Before that it was a distributor cap that shorted one plug within a
couple hours of driving.
If you replace the cap and rotor (and wires, if they are aftermarket) with
OEM it will quite possibly work right; alternatively if you don't you run
the risk of it not working right even if you find and correct other
problems. The aftermarket parts can be kept as emergency spares; rough
running is better than no running.
Mike
news:1162603485.157827.82250@m73g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com...
>I had hoped, by posting all the symptoms, to read of someone's
> diagnosis.
>
As High Tech Misfit says, it sounds like the sort of problems that
aftermarket ignition parts often cause in Hondas. I'm pretty stubborn, but
after being burned by aftermarket ignition parts (including plug wire sets)
I'm staying with OEM. When my son's aftermarket Acura rotor came apart in a
few months and chewed up the dust cap inside the distributor it was the last
straw. Before that it was a distributor cap that shorted one plug within a
couple hours of driving.
If you replace the cap and rotor (and wires, if they are aftermarket) with
OEM it will quite possibly work right; alternatively if you don't you run
the risk of it not working right even if you find and correct other
problems. The aftermarket parts can be kept as emergency spares; rough
running is better than no running.
Mike
11-03-2006 | 11:28 PM
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rough running 94 Accord
"Jojo" <oceanradio@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1162603485.157827.82250@m73g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com...
>I had hoped, by posting all the symptoms, to read of someone's
> diagnosis.
>
As High Tech Misfit says, it sounds like the sort of problems that
aftermarket ignition parts often cause in Hondas. I'm pretty stubborn, but
after being burned by aftermarket ignition parts (including plug wire sets)
I'm staying with OEM. When my son's aftermarket Acura rotor came apart in a
few months and chewed up the dust cap inside the distributor it was the last
straw. Before that it was a distributor cap that shorted one plug within a
couple hours of driving.
If you replace the cap and rotor (and wires, if they are aftermarket) with
OEM it will quite possibly work right; alternatively if you don't you run
the risk of it not working right even if you find and correct other
problems. The aftermarket parts can be kept as emergency spares; rough
running is better than no running.
Mike
news:1162603485.157827.82250@m73g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com...
>I had hoped, by posting all the symptoms, to read of someone's
> diagnosis.
>
As High Tech Misfit says, it sounds like the sort of problems that
aftermarket ignition parts often cause in Hondas. I'm pretty stubborn, but
after being burned by aftermarket ignition parts (including plug wire sets)
I'm staying with OEM. When my son's aftermarket Acura rotor came apart in a
few months and chewed up the dust cap inside the distributor it was the last
straw. Before that it was a distributor cap that shorted one plug within a
couple hours of driving.
If you replace the cap and rotor (and wires, if they are aftermarket) with
OEM it will quite possibly work right; alternatively if you don't you run
the risk of it not working right even if you find and correct other
problems. The aftermarket parts can be kept as emergency spares; rough
running is better than no running.
Mike
11-03-2006 | 11:28 PM
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Rough running 94 Accord
"Jojo" <oceanradio@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1162603485.157827.82250@m73g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com...
>I had hoped, by posting all the symptoms, to read of someone's
> diagnosis.
>
As High Tech Misfit says, it sounds like the sort of problems that
aftermarket ignition parts often cause in Hondas. I'm pretty stubborn, but
after being burned by aftermarket ignition parts (including plug wire sets)
I'm staying with OEM. When my son's aftermarket Acura rotor came apart in a
few months and chewed up the dust cap inside the distributor it was the last
straw. Before that it was a distributor cap that shorted one plug within a
couple hours of driving.
If you replace the cap and rotor (and wires, if they are aftermarket) with
OEM it will quite possibly work right; alternatively if you don't you run
the risk of it not working right even if you find and correct other
problems. The aftermarket parts can be kept as emergency spares; rough
running is better than no running.
Mike
news:1162603485.157827.82250@m73g2000cwd.googlegro ups.com...
>I had hoped, by posting all the symptoms, to read of someone's
> diagnosis.
>
As High Tech Misfit says, it sounds like the sort of problems that
aftermarket ignition parts often cause in Hondas. I'm pretty stubborn, but
after being burned by aftermarket ignition parts (including plug wire sets)
I'm staying with OEM. When my son's aftermarket Acura rotor came apart in a
few months and chewed up the dust cap inside the distributor it was the last
straw. Before that it was a distributor cap that shorted one plug within a
couple hours of driving.
If you replace the cap and rotor (and wires, if they are aftermarket) with
OEM it will quite possibly work right; alternatively if you don't you run
the risk of it not working right even if you find and correct other
problems. The aftermarket parts can be kept as emergency spares; rough
running is better than no running.
Mike
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