This is a great group to be connected to...I always appreciate the info.

Can anyone tell me how much is involved with replacing both the front and
the rear wheel lug nut studs on a 92 Civic EX? Special tools besides hub
puller? Do the Studs press out? Etc?

Thanks in Advance,
Mike H

 

"mwh" <mwh1@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:_KBAd.656644$D%.591079@attbi_s51...
> This is a great group to be connected to...I always appreciate the info.
>
> Can anyone tell me how much is involved with replacing both the front and
> the rear wheel lug nut studs on a 92 Civic EX? Special tools besides hub
> puller? Do the Studs press out? Etc?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
> Mike H
>
>
Pending details about the 92 Civic....

The usual way studs are replaced is to hammer the originals out and hammer
the replacements in. Normally, the replacements are slightly oversized so
they get a new grip. When I replaced the studs in my older Volvo I had to
place the hub on a socket on the cement, with the new stud centered in the
socket, and hammered on the back of the stud to seat it. A 12 or 16 ounce
hammer is the smallest that would do the job. A 2 lb would be about right.
An anvil would be useful, too :-)

Mike

 

"mwh" <mwh1@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:_KBAd.656644$D%.591079@attbi_s51...
> This is a great group to be connected to...I always appreciate the info.
>
> Can anyone tell me how much is involved with replacing both the front and
> the rear wheel lug nut studs on a 92 Civic EX? Special tools besides hub
> puller? Do the Studs press out? Etc?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
> Mike H
>
>
Pending details about the 92 Civic....

The usual way studs are replaced is to hammer the originals out and hammer
the replacements in. Normally, the replacements are slightly oversized so
they get a new grip. When I replaced the studs in my older Volvo I had to
place the hub on a socket on the cement, with the new stud centered in the
socket, and hammered on the back of the stud to seat it. A 12 or 16 ounce
hammer is the smallest that would do the job. A 2 lb would be about right.
An anvil would be useful, too :-)

Mike

 

..
>The usual way studs are replaced is to hammer the originals out and hammer
>the replacements in.

I suspect this assumes that the hub has been taken off the car which
might be a feat in itself (i.e., great amounts of torque requiring air
tools). Banging on the hub while its still mounted makes one wonder
what damage one might do to the axle, drive train, or whatever.

I replaced a stud once using the following technique:
1) Got two cheapo C clamps and a square metal bar (approximately 3/8
square x 2 foot) from the local hardware. Using the C clamps across
the bar and hub was able to apply pressure against the stud and force
it out the rear of the hub. Looked like this:

C1 and C1' are the ends of the first C clamp.
Ditto C2, C2'

C1 Bar C1'
Stud Hubb Bar
C2 Bar C2'


All this is done while the hub is mounted. I may have tapped
relatively softly on the metal bar while the pressue was applied
(don't remember). Had a third hand helping me in all this.

2) To put in the new stud, put it in, then add a bunch of cheapo
washers and then the nut. Screw down the nut over using a ratchet.
Looks like this:

Stud----Hubb---washer,washer,washer,washer,washer --- Nut

 

..
>The usual way studs are replaced is to hammer the originals out and hammer
>the replacements in.

I suspect this assumes that the hub has been taken off the car which
might be a feat in itself (i.e., great amounts of torque requiring air
tools). Banging on the hub while its still mounted makes one wonder
what damage one might do to the axle, drive train, or whatever.

I replaced a stud once using the following technique:
1) Got two cheapo C clamps and a square metal bar (approximately 3/8
square x 2 foot) from the local hardware. Using the C clamps across
the bar and hub was able to apply pressure against the stud and force
it out the rear of the hub. Looked like this:

C1 and C1' are the ends of the first C clamp.
Ditto C2, C2'

C1 Bar C1'
Stud Hubb Bar
C2 Bar C2'


All this is done while the hub is mounted. I may have tapped
relatively softly on the metal bar while the pressue was applied
(don't remember). Had a third hand helping me in all this.

2) To put in the new stud, put it in, then add a bunch of cheapo
washers and then the nut. Screw down the nut over using a ratchet.
Looks like this:

Stud----Hubb---washer,washer,washer,washer,washer --- Nut

 

<kiselink@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:9ci7t09j0tmn1ob9p95stfqkdsu3ljr3lv@4ax.com...
> .
>>The usual way studs are replaced is to hammer the originals out and hammer
>>the replacements in.
>
> I suspect this assumes that the hub has been taken off the car which
> might be a feat in itself (i.e., great amounts of torque requiring air
> tools). Banging on the hub while its still mounted makes one wonder
> what damage one might do to the axle, drive train, or whatever.
>
> I replaced a stud once using the following technique:
> 1) Got two cheapo C clamps and a square metal bar (approximately 3/8
> square x 2 foot) from the local hardware. Using the C clamps across
> the bar and hub was able to apply pressure against the stud and force
> it out the rear of the hub. Looked like this:
>
> C1 and C1' are the ends of the first C clamp.
> Ditto C2, C2'
>
> C1 Bar C1'
> Stud Hubb Bar
> C2 Bar C2'
>
>
> All this is done while the hub is mounted. I may have tapped
> relatively softly on the metal bar while the pressue was applied
> (don't remember). Had a third hand helping me in all this.
>
> 2) To put in the new stud, put it in, then add a bunch of cheapo
> washers and then the nut. Screw down the nut over using a ratchet.
> Looks like this:
>
> Stud----Hubb---washer,washer,washer,washer,washer --- Nut

I originally tried a Snap-On U-joint tool (think of a 5 lb C-clamp with a
1/2 inch jack screw) to press the stud in - it couldn't apply enough
pressure. Ditto with trying to use the lug nut to seat the lug. But I
suspect different cars are different, so it may work on the Civic.

Mike

 

<kiselink@mindspring.com> wrote in message
news:9ci7t09j0tmn1ob9p95stfqkdsu3ljr3lv@4ax.com...
> .
>>The usual way studs are replaced is to hammer the originals out and hammer
>>the replacements in.
>
> I suspect this assumes that the hub has been taken off the car which
> might be a feat in itself (i.e., great amounts of torque requiring air
> tools). Banging on the hub while its still mounted makes one wonder
> what damage one might do to the axle, drive train, or whatever.
>
> I replaced a stud once using the following technique:
> 1) Got two cheapo C clamps and a square metal bar (approximately 3/8
> square x 2 foot) from the local hardware. Using the C clamps across
> the bar and hub was able to apply pressure against the stud and force
> it out the rear of the hub. Looked like this:
>
> C1 and C1' are the ends of the first C clamp.
> Ditto C2, C2'
>
> C1 Bar C1'
> Stud Hubb Bar
> C2 Bar C2'
>
>
> All this is done while the hub is mounted. I may have tapped
> relatively softly on the metal bar while the pressue was applied
> (don't remember). Had a third hand helping me in all this.
>
> 2) To put in the new stud, put it in, then add a bunch of cheapo
> washers and then the nut. Screw down the nut over using a ratchet.
> Looks like this:
>
> Stud----Hubb---washer,washer,washer,washer,washer --- Nut

I originally tried a Snap-On U-joint tool (think of a 5 lb C-clamp with a
1/2 inch jack screw) to press the stud in - it couldn't apply enough
pressure. Ditto with trying to use the lug nut to seat the lug. But I
suspect different cars are different, so it may work on the Civic.

Mike

 

First you have to get the hub out first. That requires a big socket, 35mm,
if memory serves me, for axle nut. Also a punch to straighten the lock part
of the axle nut. Honda recommends you replace the axle nut. They don't use
cotter pins like other makes.

I had to do this to replace a rear wheel bearing. The bearings are sold
with the hub/studs. I think I paid $60 for the set. Do you need to put in
tuner type studs, or longer studs for racing? It might be cheaper and less
headache replacing the set.

Good Luck!

"mwh" <mwh1@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:_KBAd.656644$D%.591079@attbi_s51...
> This is a great group to be connected to...I always appreciate the info.
>
> Can anyone tell me how much is involved with replacing both the front and
> the rear wheel lug nut studs on a 92 Civic EX? Special tools besides hub
> puller? Do the Studs press out? Etc?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
> Mike H
>
>

 

First you have to get the hub out first. That requires a big socket, 35mm,
if memory serves me, for axle nut. Also a punch to straighten the lock part
of the axle nut. Honda recommends you replace the axle nut. They don't use
cotter pins like other makes.

I had to do this to replace a rear wheel bearing. The bearings are sold
with the hub/studs. I think I paid $60 for the set. Do you need to put in
tuner type studs, or longer studs for racing? It might be cheaper and less
headache replacing the set.

Good Luck!

"mwh" <mwh1@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:_KBAd.656644$D%.591079@attbi_s51...
> This is a great group to be connected to...I always appreciate the info.
>
> Can anyone tell me how much is involved with replacing both the front and
> the rear wheel lug nut studs on a 92 Civic EX? Special tools besides hub
> puller? Do the Studs press out? Etc?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
> Mike H
>
>