"Say What?" <NotMe@NotYou.com> wrote in message
news:GvQui.55$i85.10@nlpi061.nbdc.sbc.com...
> jim beam wrote:
>
>>>> As you know, this is my 2nd post. My 30 Jul 07 post elicited no
>>>> responses.
>>>
>>> The THIRD but who's counting? 30 Jul, 7 Aug, 8 Aug
>>
>>
>> he just wants someone to tell him to go ahead and do it. we /could/ tell
>> him they're sealed units and can't be disassembled, but that'll take the
>> fun out.
>
> That would be nasty... and mean.
>
> It's bad enough that you didn't tell him the short cut method. You know,
> where you heat the bearing units up with either a MAPP gas torch or gentle
> application of an oxy-acetylene torch to redistribute the grease and get
> it back down around the bearings and shaft..

My regular propane torch won't get hot enough? I have a little Propane /
MAPP & Oxygen torch too, but the MAPP bottles are expensive, and the oxygen
bottle are even more expensive and last less than 10 minutes.

How come you guys don't like me? Tegger was very polite and helpful,
thankfully.
I read some other posts and you weren't breaking their *****. It's going to
take some time for me to get over this. Maybe the whole weekend, when I'll
have time to try the torch method. Will the grease flow properly with the
car level, or do I have to jack up the other side? Thanks for the tip Jim
and Say!

Wayne
>
>
>
>

 

Wayne L wrote:
>
> My regular propane torch won't get hot enough? I have a little Propane /
> MAPP & Oxygen torch too, but the MAPP bottles are expensive, and the
> oxygen bottle are even more expensive and last less than 10 minutes.
>
> How come you guys don't like me? Tegger was very polite and helpful,
> thankfully. I read some other posts and you weren't breaking their
> *****. It's going to take some time for me to get over this. Maybe the
> whole weekend, when I'll have time to try the torch method. Will the
> grease flow properly with the car level, or do I have to jack up the
> other side? Thanks for the tip Jim and Say!
>

The post about the torch was a joke. Don't do this. The "sealed" bearings
get warm during normal operation and that will allow the grease to
throughout the bearing. Torching the bearings will only kill them.

Eric

 

Wayne L wrote:
>
> My regular propane torch won't get hot enough? I have a little Propane /
> MAPP & Oxygen torch too, but the MAPP bottles are expensive, and the
> oxygen bottle are even more expensive and last less than 10 minutes.
>
> How come you guys don't like me? Tegger was very polite and helpful,
> thankfully. I read some other posts and you weren't breaking their
> *****. It's going to take some time for me to get over this. Maybe the
> whole weekend, when I'll have time to try the torch method. Will the
> grease flow properly with the car level, or do I have to jack up the
> other side? Thanks for the tip Jim and Say!
>

The post about the torch was a joke. Don't do this. The "sealed" bearings
get warm during normal operation and that will allow the grease to
throughout the bearing. Torching the bearings will only kill them.

Eric

 

Wayne L wrote:
>
> My regular propane torch won't get hot enough? I have a little Propane /
> MAPP & Oxygen torch too, but the MAPP bottles are expensive, and the
> oxygen bottle are even more expensive and last less than 10 minutes.
>
> How come you guys don't like me? Tegger was very polite and helpful,
> thankfully. I read some other posts and you weren't breaking their
> *****. It's going to take some time for me to get over this. Maybe the
> whole weekend, when I'll have time to try the torch method. Will the
> grease flow properly with the car level, or do I have to jack up the
> other side? Thanks for the tip Jim and Say!
>

The post about the torch was a joke. Don't do this. The "sealed" bearings
get warm during normal operation and that will allow the grease to
throughout the bearing. Torching the bearings will only kill them.

Eric

 

"Wayne L" <wlogsdon@snip.net> wrote in
news:d8dab$46bbea22$d1cc7cf6$2156@snip.allthenewsg roups.com:

> When I took the dust cap off of the 2003
> Accord, it looked similar to the 87 Accord I had...same disposable
> "peened" nut (I have a half a dozen used ones in the tool
> box...figured in a pinch they might be usable on the opposite side)



You may find you cannot turn them 180 degrees to get them started on the
threads. There is only one entry for the nut on the driveshaft threads,
so it will go on exactly the same way every time.



> but when I saw that instead of a keyed flat washer it had what looked
> like a sealing sheet metal disk.........I figured I'd better get some
> info before starting the disassembly. A few weeks ago it popped into
> my little brain that the Honda had about 61K on it and I had never
> greased the rear axles. I've seen more than one car on the shoulder
> with a broken rear axle, probably caused by a red hot bearing.



I'll bet none of those was a Honda. Honda's suspension bugaboos are
seized front lower balljoints and broken front springs on pre-Macpherson
strut cars.


> My
> wife's 99 Grand Prix has an obviously sealed rear axle unit. This is
> the first car I've owned in a long while that I didn't spring for the
> whole shop manual set, because I usually kept them until they were
> ready for the junk yard. I've had dealers tell me they didn't want my
> trade in. Then I'd tell them "no trade in, no sale", then they would
> offer $50 and I'd say thankyou, saved me the trouble of getting rid of
> it :-) But after spending countless Sunday's under the car fixing
> things, and with Honda's being the most reliable cars I've ever owned,
> and with just about the lowest recall numbers in the business, I hope
> to trade this one in and get another in a year or two. BTW, the
> manuals are up to about $200 for the complete set.
>


They are expensive, but worth every penny. If I were you, and intended
to keep the car for a long time, I'd bite the bullet and get the
manuals. You may eventually be able to find them on eBay.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"Wayne L" <wlogsdon@snip.net> wrote in
news:d8dab$46bbea22$d1cc7cf6$2156@snip.allthenewsg roups.com:

> When I took the dust cap off of the 2003
> Accord, it looked similar to the 87 Accord I had...same disposable
> "peened" nut (I have a half a dozen used ones in the tool
> box...figured in a pinch they might be usable on the opposite side)



You may find you cannot turn them 180 degrees to get them started on the
threads. There is only one entry for the nut on the driveshaft threads,
so it will go on exactly the same way every time.



> but when I saw that instead of a keyed flat washer it had what looked
> like a sealing sheet metal disk.........I figured I'd better get some
> info before starting the disassembly. A few weeks ago it popped into
> my little brain that the Honda had about 61K on it and I had never
> greased the rear axles. I've seen more than one car on the shoulder
> with a broken rear axle, probably caused by a red hot bearing.



I'll bet none of those was a Honda. Honda's suspension bugaboos are
seized front lower balljoints and broken front springs on pre-Macpherson
strut cars.


> My
> wife's 99 Grand Prix has an obviously sealed rear axle unit. This is
> the first car I've owned in a long while that I didn't spring for the
> whole shop manual set, because I usually kept them until they were
> ready for the junk yard. I've had dealers tell me they didn't want my
> trade in. Then I'd tell them "no trade in, no sale", then they would
> offer $50 and I'd say thankyou, saved me the trouble of getting rid of
> it :-) But after spending countless Sunday's under the car fixing
> things, and with Honda's being the most reliable cars I've ever owned,
> and with just about the lowest recall numbers in the business, I hope
> to trade this one in and get another in a year or two. BTW, the
> manuals are up to about $200 for the complete set.
>


They are expensive, but worth every penny. If I were you, and intended
to keep the car for a long time, I'd bite the bullet and get the
manuals. You may eventually be able to find them on eBay.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"Wayne L" <wlogsdon@snip.net> wrote in
news:d8dab$46bbea22$d1cc7cf6$2156@snip.allthenewsg roups.com:

> When I took the dust cap off of the 2003
> Accord, it looked similar to the 87 Accord I had...same disposable
> "peened" nut (I have a half a dozen used ones in the tool
> box...figured in a pinch they might be usable on the opposite side)



You may find you cannot turn them 180 degrees to get them started on the
threads. There is only one entry for the nut on the driveshaft threads,
so it will go on exactly the same way every time.



> but when I saw that instead of a keyed flat washer it had what looked
> like a sealing sheet metal disk.........I figured I'd better get some
> info before starting the disassembly. A few weeks ago it popped into
> my little brain that the Honda had about 61K on it and I had never
> greased the rear axles. I've seen more than one car on the shoulder
> with a broken rear axle, probably caused by a red hot bearing.



I'll bet none of those was a Honda. Honda's suspension bugaboos are
seized front lower balljoints and broken front springs on pre-Macpherson
strut cars.


> My
> wife's 99 Grand Prix has an obviously sealed rear axle unit. This is
> the first car I've owned in a long while that I didn't spring for the
> whole shop manual set, because I usually kept them until they were
> ready for the junk yard. I've had dealers tell me they didn't want my
> trade in. Then I'd tell them "no trade in, no sale", then they would
> offer $50 and I'd say thankyou, saved me the trouble of getting rid of
> it :-) But after spending countless Sunday's under the car fixing
> things, and with Honda's being the most reliable cars I've ever owned,
> and with just about the lowest recall numbers in the business, I hope
> to trade this one in and get another in a year or two. BTW, the
> manuals are up to about $200 for the complete set.
>


They are expensive, but worth every penny. If I were you, and intended
to keep the car for a long time, I'd bite the bullet and get the
manuals. You may eventually be able to find them on eBay.

--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"Wayne L" <wlogsdon@snip.net> wrote in
news:98332$46bbfc95$d1cc7cf6$2897@snip.allthenewsg roups.com:

>
> "Say What?" <NotMe@NotYou.com> wrote in message
> news:GvQui.55$i85.10@nlpi061.nbdc.sbc.com...
>> jim beam wrote:
>>
>>>>> As you know, this is my 2nd post. My 30 Jul 07 post elicited no
>>>>> responses.
>>>>
>>>> The THIRD but who's counting? 30 Jul, 7 Aug, 8 Aug
>>>
>>>
>>> he just wants someone to tell him to go ahead and do it. we /could/
>>> tell him they're sealed units and can't be disassembled, but that'll
>>> take the fun out.
>>
>> That would be nasty... and mean.
>>
>> It's bad enough that you didn't tell him the short cut method. You
>> know, where you heat the bearing units up with either a MAPP gas
>> torch or gentle application of an oxy-acetylene torch to redistribute
>> the grease and get it back down around the bearings and shaft..
>
> My regular propane torch won't get hot enough? I have a little
> Propane / MAPP & Oxygen torch too, but the MAPP bottles are expensive,
> and the oxygen bottle are even more expensive and last less than 10
> minutes.
>
> How come you guys don't like me? Tegger was very polite and helpful,
> thankfully.
> I read some other posts and you weren't breaking their *****. It's
> going to take some time for me to get over this. Maybe the whole
> weekend, when I'll have time to try the torch method. Will the grease
> flow properly with the car level, or do I have to jack up the other
> side? Thanks for the tip Jim and Say!
>



Do not monkey around with heating the bearings. That is a bad idea and
is unnecessary. You risk damage to the rubber sealing lip on the back of
the bearing.

Honda bearings go bad for two reasons: 1) impact damage, and 2) water
ingress. They do not go bad because the grease has dried up.

Just leave the bearings alone.

If, like me, you just like doing "recreational maintenance", find
something else to keep yourself occupied, like painting out stone chips
before they rust.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"Wayne L" <wlogsdon@snip.net> wrote in
news:98332$46bbfc95$d1cc7cf6$2897@snip.allthenewsg roups.com:

>
> "Say What?" <NotMe@NotYou.com> wrote in message
> news:GvQui.55$i85.10@nlpi061.nbdc.sbc.com...
>> jim beam wrote:
>>
>>>>> As you know, this is my 2nd post. My 30 Jul 07 post elicited no
>>>>> responses.
>>>>
>>>> The THIRD but who's counting? 30 Jul, 7 Aug, 8 Aug
>>>
>>>
>>> he just wants someone to tell him to go ahead and do it. we /could/
>>> tell him they're sealed units and can't be disassembled, but that'll
>>> take the fun out.
>>
>> That would be nasty... and mean.
>>
>> It's bad enough that you didn't tell him the short cut method. You
>> know, where you heat the bearing units up with either a MAPP gas
>> torch or gentle application of an oxy-acetylene torch to redistribute
>> the grease and get it back down around the bearings and shaft..
>
> My regular propane torch won't get hot enough? I have a little
> Propane / MAPP & Oxygen torch too, but the MAPP bottles are expensive,
> and the oxygen bottle are even more expensive and last less than 10
> minutes.
>
> How come you guys don't like me? Tegger was very polite and helpful,
> thankfully.
> I read some other posts and you weren't breaking their *****. It's
> going to take some time for me to get over this. Maybe the whole
> weekend, when I'll have time to try the torch method. Will the grease
> flow properly with the car level, or do I have to jack up the other
> side? Thanks for the tip Jim and Say!
>



Do not monkey around with heating the bearings. That is a bad idea and
is unnecessary. You risk damage to the rubber sealing lip on the back of
the bearing.

Honda bearings go bad for two reasons: 1) impact damage, and 2) water
ingress. They do not go bad because the grease has dried up.

Just leave the bearings alone.

If, like me, you just like doing "recreational maintenance", find
something else to keep yourself occupied, like painting out stone chips
before they rust.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"Wayne L" <wlogsdon@snip.net> wrote in
news:98332$46bbfc95$d1cc7cf6$2897@snip.allthenewsg roups.com:

>
> "Say What?" <NotMe@NotYou.com> wrote in message
> news:GvQui.55$i85.10@nlpi061.nbdc.sbc.com...
>> jim beam wrote:
>>
>>>>> As you know, this is my 2nd post. My 30 Jul 07 post elicited no
>>>>> responses.
>>>>
>>>> The THIRD but who's counting? 30 Jul, 7 Aug, 8 Aug
>>>
>>>
>>> he just wants someone to tell him to go ahead and do it. we /could/
>>> tell him they're sealed units and can't be disassembled, but that'll
>>> take the fun out.
>>
>> That would be nasty... and mean.
>>
>> It's bad enough that you didn't tell him the short cut method. You
>> know, where you heat the bearing units up with either a MAPP gas
>> torch or gentle application of an oxy-acetylene torch to redistribute
>> the grease and get it back down around the bearings and shaft..
>
> My regular propane torch won't get hot enough? I have a little
> Propane / MAPP & Oxygen torch too, but the MAPP bottles are expensive,
> and the oxygen bottle are even more expensive and last less than 10
> minutes.
>
> How come you guys don't like me? Tegger was very polite and helpful,
> thankfully.
> I read some other posts and you weren't breaking their *****. It's
> going to take some time for me to get over this. Maybe the whole
> weekend, when I'll have time to try the torch method. Will the grease
> flow properly with the car level, or do I have to jack up the other
> side? Thanks for the tip Jim and Say!
>



Do not monkey around with heating the bearings. That is a bad idea and
is unnecessary. You risk damage to the rubber sealing lip on the back of
the bearing.

Honda bearings go bad for two reasons: 1) impact damage, and 2) water
ingress. They do not go bad because the grease has dried up.

Just leave the bearings alone.

If, like me, you just like doing "recreational maintenance", find
something else to keep yourself occupied, like painting out stone chips
before they rust.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Wayne L wrote:
>
> BTW, the manuals are up to about $200 for the complete set.
>

A more likely price is $70 http://tinyurl.com/29qqy6

Add $35 if you want the supplement manual for the navigation system. Add
$40 if you want the supplement manual for the V6. There are others as
well. However, most of the information you'll likely wind up needing will
be in the general manual (by the way, I don't recall you mentioning which
engine your car had).

Note that you can access manuals for older cars with sealed rear wheel
bearings from http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html

Eric

 

Wayne L wrote:
>
> BTW, the manuals are up to about $200 for the complete set.
>

A more likely price is $70 http://tinyurl.com/29qqy6

Add $35 if you want the supplement manual for the navigation system. Add
$40 if you want the supplement manual for the V6. There are others as
well. However, most of the information you'll likely wind up needing will
be in the general manual (by the way, I don't recall you mentioning which
engine your car had).

Note that you can access manuals for older cars with sealed rear wheel
bearings from http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html

Eric

 

Wayne L wrote:
>
> BTW, the manuals are up to about $200 for the complete set.
>

A more likely price is $70 http://tinyurl.com/29qqy6

Add $35 if you want the supplement manual for the navigation system. Add
$40 if you want the supplement manual for the V6. There are others as
well. However, most of the information you'll likely wind up needing will
be in the general manual (by the way, I don't recall you mentioning which
engine your car had).

Note that you can access manuals for older cars with sealed rear wheel
bearings from http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html

Eric

 

"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:46BC5A15.109814E5@spam.now...
> Wayne L wrote:
>>
>> BTW, the manuals are up to about $200 for the complete set.
>>
>
> A more likely price is $70 http://tinyurl.com/29qqy6
>
> Add $35 if you want the supplement manual for the navigation system. Add
> $40 if you want the supplement manual for the V6. There are others as
> well. However, most of the information you'll likely wind up needing will
> be in the general manual (by the way, I don't recall you mentioning which
> engine your car had).

The 4 cylinder. Plenty peppy for me, and more room under the hood for
working on it.

>
> Note that you can access manuals for older cars with sealed rear wheel
> bearings from http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html
>
> Eric

Thanks Eric (and Tegger)

 

"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:46BC5A15.109814E5@spam.now...
> Wayne L wrote:
>>
>> BTW, the manuals are up to about $200 for the complete set.
>>
>
> A more likely price is $70 http://tinyurl.com/29qqy6
>
> Add $35 if you want the supplement manual for the navigation system. Add
> $40 if you want the supplement manual for the V6. There are others as
> well. However, most of the information you'll likely wind up needing will
> be in the general manual (by the way, I don't recall you mentioning which
> engine your car had).

The 4 cylinder. Plenty peppy for me, and more room under the hood for
working on it.

>
> Note that you can access manuals for older cars with sealed rear wheel
> bearings from http://www.honda.co.uk/car/owner/workshop.html
>
> Eric

Thanks Eric (and Tegger)