"OK Simpleton....With your fancy *** dell attached to your
Hacked car's computer...how many more horses are you kickin out?
5 maybee 10? you declined to even mention it."

the engine builder is telling me 400 hp to the wheels on pump gas.
he showed me some dyno charts of another mitsu when i picked up my short
block. the turbo has dyno'd over 500whp but on race fuel and more boost.

" Lets suppose just for a second that not EVERYONE is hacking thier
cars computers and try sticking to the topic at hand. Wich was OIL.
Not hacked Car computers & not Cars that need a friggin laptop on
the passenger seat to even operate it."

well, to be honest many of the regular posters here who come to the aid of
newbies such as yourself, do have hacked/tweaked cars and the dell is only
out when datalogging. with respect to remaining on topic, it was you who
wandered off the path........
what does any of the following quoted material have to do with oil?
"
have you ever seen that little computer box in your engine compartment?
what do you suppose it does?
it keeps the engine running at optimum performance based on what
the mitsubishi engeniers deemed is perfect for that engine.
if you increase the engine weight or decrease it , the computer is going to
compensate
for it.
I also used to work at a stereo shop, and we had customers wo had convinced
themselvs
that this moster cable speaker wire sounded so much better than regular
wire.
the truth is there is no difference.
But since these customes had just laid out $200.00 for copper wire, of
course thier
little brains told them it sounded better.
i suspect the same type of self-pyscho-hypnosis is happening here."


"My claim is simple, you are NO way gonna kick out any more
Horses by using JUST some cheap *** oil additive."

no your claim was this:
"First off your going to kill that engine much mucg sooner then it
would if you hadnt screwed with it, secondly...your NOT gaining Aything."

synthetic oil will kill your engine sooner appears to be your claim.

"best you can do is with a synthetic oil is skip the length of miles
between oil changes. or maybee even protect your cylinder boars
from when your engine knocks too much."

uh, wrong.....

"no oil in the world is gonna increace your horsepower."
a reduction in the coefficient of friction in the lubricant results in a
decrease in frictional losses within the engine, it's pretty clear.

go to royal purple's web site and look at the dyno charts published in the
oil comparison.

dude, you're just lost......











"Techie" <Bladerunner1985@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8MS2b.5615$bu.3250153@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net ...
> OK Simpleton....With your fancy *** dell attached to your
> Hacked car's computer...how many more horses are you kickin out?
> 5 maybee 10? you declined to even mention it.
> Lets suppose just for a second that not EVERYONE is hacking thier
> cars computers and try sticking to the topic at hand. Wich was OIL.
> Not hacked Car computers & not Cars that need a friggin laptop on
> the passenger seat to even operate it.
> My claim is simple, you are NO way gonna kick out any more
> Horses by using JUST some cheap *** oil additive.
> at best you can do is with a synthetic oil is skip the length of miles
> between oil changes. or maybee even protect your cylinder boars
> from when your engine knocks too much.
> By the way, the Oil's thickness is pretty much a mute point once the
engine
> has warmed up.
> no oil in the world is gonna increace your horsepower.
> and i invite you to show me a real website to prove otherwise.
>
> "simpleton" <simpleton@yahoo> wrote in message
> news:boCcnUWnTPwr9taiXTWJjQ@comcast.com...
> > i just love oil threads......
> >
> > "Anyone putting in oil aditive or synthetic motor oil to
> > try and squeeze a couple extra horses is a lunitic."
> >
> > why? because you do not understand it?
> >
> > "have you ever seen that little computer box in your engine compartment?
> > what do you suppose it does?"
> >
> > yeah, mine's kinda' hacked: a 1995 ecu in a 1997 car, controlled by a
dell
> > laptop and dsm-link software but it's not in the engine compartment and
it
> > has nothing to do with oil........
> >
> > "if you increase the engine weight or decrease it , the computer is
going
> to
> > compensate for it."
> >
> > total nonsense! i have an aluminum flywheel, aluminum underdrive pulley
> and
> > have both balance shafts removed (20 pounds or so lighter than stock.)
and
> > the ecu couldn't give a rat's ***.
> > what sensor reports engine weight to the ecu? i don't believe this is an
> > obdII function.
> >
> > "I also used to work at a stereo shop, and we had customers wo had
> > convinced
> > themselvs
> > that this moster cable speaker wire sounded so much better than regular
> > wire.
> > the truth is there is no difference.
> > But since these customes had just laid out $200.00 for copper wire, of
> > course thier
> > little brains told them it sounded better.
> > i suspect the same type of self-pyscho-hypnosis is happening here."
> >
> > that's because monster sucks...try cardas, straightwire or audioquest
for
> > better results.
> >
> > techie you are not.......
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Techie" <Bladerunner1985@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:zII2b.3126$bu.1234268@news4.srv.hcvlny.cv.net ...
> > > Your all MAD I Tell YOu MAD MAD MAD.
> > > Anyone putting in oil aditive or synthetic motor oil to
> > > try and squeeze a couple extra horses is a lunitic.
> > > Anyone putting in oil aditive or synthetic motor oil to
> > > try and squeeze a couple extra horses is a lunitic.
> > > have you ever seen that little computer box in your engine
compartment?
> > > what do you suppose it does?
> > > it keeps the engine running at optimum performance based on what
> > > the mitsubishi engeniers deemed is perfect for that engine.
> > > if you increase the engine weight or decrease it , the computer is
going
> > to
> > > compensate
> > > for it.
> > > I also used to work at a stereo shop, and we had customers wo had
> > convinced
> > > themselvs
> > > that this moster cable speaker wire sounded so much better than
regular
> > > wire.
> > > the truth is there is no difference.
> > > But since these customes had just laid out $200.00 for copper wire, of
> > > course thier
> > > little brains told them it sounded better.
> > > i suspect the same type of self-pyscho-hypnosis is happening here.
> > >
> > >
> > > "Stephen Bigelow" <sbigelowPOV@rogers.com> wrote in message
> > > news:1sG2b.34351$_V.32205@news04.bloor.is.net.cabl e.rogers.com...
> > > >
> > > > "Malcom Gillette" <1mgillette1@***.net> wrote in message
> > > > news:rvz2b.90049$Ij4.23983@news2.central.***.net.. .
> > > > > The first # refers to the base weight of the oil.
> > > >
> > > > No.
> > > >
> > > > That is the weight it is
> > > > > always.
> > > >
> > > > No.
> > > >
> > > > It has additives that make it perform like a 30 weight.A 10w30 is a
> > > > > 10 weight always,but performs like a 30 weight.
> > > >
> > > > That doesn't make a lick of sense.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > If you want a straight
> > > > > weight oil you would buy a 30w only.Which would be a thickerbased
> oil.
> > I
> > > > > have always heard of 5 weight oils.
> > > >
> > > > Heard of?
> > > >
> > > > And I have seen the ones rated 0w
> > > > > something,but always have wondered how you would have a zero
weight
> > > oil.I
> > > > > asked our distributor about this.He has a hard time also with
this.
> He
> > > > > thought that it must be at somewhere under 5 so that they could
call
> > it
> > > a
> > > > > 0w. Afterall wouldn't a zero weight be air or at least the
> viscosity
> > of
> > > > > diesel fuel.
> > > >
> > > > That's not a oil distributor, I hope.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

Techie wrote:
>
> OK Simpleton....With your fancy *** dell attached to your
> Hacked car's computer...how many more horses are you kickin out?
> 5 maybee 10? you declined to even mention it.

Ten bucks says Techie is reading this thread through one of the
non-Mitsubishi newsgroups.

> My claim is simple, you are NO way gonna kick out any more
> Horses by using JUST some cheap *** oil additive.

Many dyno tests have proven the horsepower gains from Royal Purple.
Whether it's worth it or not, eh.

 

Techie wrote:
>
> OK Simpleton....With your fancy *** dell attached to your
> Hacked car's computer...how many more horses are you kickin out?
> 5 maybee 10? you declined to even mention it.

Ten bucks says Techie is reading this thread through one of the
non-Mitsubishi newsgroups.

> My claim is simple, you are NO way gonna kick out any more
> Horses by using JUST some cheap *** oil additive.

Many dyno tests have proven the horsepower gains from Royal Purple.
Whether it's worth it or not, eh.

 

It is obvious that oil may give you more horsepower. How? By reducing the
amount of strength the crankshaft has to make to turn itself. You can say;
no! that gives the engine better torque by reducing friction.
Folks, it's this simple; take a pen with one hand and try to rotate it the
other way with your other hand so that the two hands oppose strength. What
you are doing is the effect of torque. Torque at high engine speeds
theorically should give you better friction, therefore the engine makes more
power. These gains are minimal, not more than 10 hp with a really powerful
car, maybe a race car, due to the special racing components it works with.
For a normal car, say a 4 cyl, the gains would be marginal, but the
efficiency is increased. That's why the oild change intervals are greater
with synthetic oils.
They tested a V8 camaro with initially 302 hp, and after the oil change with
royal purple it made 308 hp.
That's it. That's all there is to it. But do never say that synthetic oil
DOES NOT give you a gain. Whether it is big or not, depends on your engine.

 

It is obvious that oil may give you more horsepower. How? By reducing the
amount of strength the crankshaft has to make to turn itself. You can say;
no! that gives the engine better torque by reducing friction.
Folks, it's this simple; take a pen with one hand and try to rotate it the
other way with your other hand so that the two hands oppose strength. What
you are doing is the effect of torque. Torque at high engine speeds
theorically should give you better friction, therefore the engine makes more
power. These gains are minimal, not more than 10 hp with a really powerful
car, maybe a race car, due to the special racing components it works with.
For a normal car, say a 4 cyl, the gains would be marginal, but the
efficiency is increased. That's why the oild change intervals are greater
with synthetic oils.
They tested a V8 camaro with initially 302 hp, and after the oil change with
royal purple it made 308 hp.
That's it. That's all there is to it. But do never say that synthetic oil
DOES NOT give you a gain. Whether it is big or not, depends on your engine.

 

In article <rvz2b.90049$Ij4.23983@news2.central.***.net>,
"Malcom Gillette" <1mgillette1@***.net> wrote:

> The first # refers to the base weight of the oil.


Oh my.

A multigrade oil has two numbers on it--say 10W30. They mean different
things.

The numbers refer to the oil's viscosity, as we all know. "Weight" in
this case is slang; if you were to put a quart of 10W30 on a scale next
to a quart of 20W50, there might be a few grams difference between the
two but nothing to write home about. They measure viscosity with a
Saybolt Viscosimeter, which is a bucket with a hole in the bottom of it.
Plug up the hole, put in some oil, open the hole and time the oil as it
drains. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity. Compare the time
to a table that comes with the viscosimeter and you'll learn the oil's
weight.

The "10W" part is the oil's winter (sometimes called "arctic")
viscosity. It's measured at 0 degrees celsius. The viscosimeter is
different, with a larger hole than the summer viscosimeter, and the
table is different--the times are much longer because you're dealing
with a fluid the consistency of honey.

The "30" part is the oil's summer viscosity. It's measured at 100
degrees celsius through a viscosimeter with a little hole in it.

(Having said that, all of which is true, the international standards
community has gotten involved. Now it's all in metric, and certified by
ISO, but the US table's been jiggered around so that 30-weight oil is
still 30-weight oil. Europeans always liked their oil spec'd in Saybolt
times; I have a Heidelberg press that lists the oil it needs in Saybolt
times. Then you call the oil company and ask for some oil with that
special rating, and what shows up? Straight 30-weight Shell Rotella
T...with an invoice for $425 for a 55-gallon drum. We buy it at Sam's
for $257 a drum now.)

You can go to the store, buy a quart of straight-weight oil and run it
through the two viscosimeters so you'll have a "multigrade" oil, but it
might be 750W30. To solve the problem, everyone's on the right track:
take an arctic oil with one viscosity and add polymers to modify the
weight/temp curve.

I remember in my misspent youth running into 20W20 Pennzoil. My dad
loved 20W20 Pennzoil in his Chrysler for some reason. Now he's into 5W30
Mobil 1.

Oh, the 0W oil? The arctic table does go that low. Why you'd want oil
that thin I have no idea.

--jmowreader
a fount of useless knowledge

 

In article <rvz2b.90049$Ij4.23983@news2.central.***.net>,
"Malcom Gillette" <1mgillette1@***.net> wrote:

> The first # refers to the base weight of the oil.


Oh my.

A multigrade oil has two numbers on it--say 10W30. They mean different
things.

The numbers refer to the oil's viscosity, as we all know. "Weight" in
this case is slang; if you were to put a quart of 10W30 on a scale next
to a quart of 20W50, there might be a few grams difference between the
two but nothing to write home about. They measure viscosity with a
Saybolt Viscosimeter, which is a bucket with a hole in the bottom of it.
Plug up the hole, put in some oil, open the hole and time the oil as it
drains. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity. Compare the time
to a table that comes with the viscosimeter and you'll learn the oil's
weight.

The "10W" part is the oil's winter (sometimes called "arctic")
viscosity. It's measured at 0 degrees celsius. The viscosimeter is
different, with a larger hole than the summer viscosimeter, and the
table is different--the times are much longer because you're dealing
with a fluid the consistency of honey.

The "30" part is the oil's summer viscosity. It's measured at 100
degrees celsius through a viscosimeter with a little hole in it.

(Having said that, all of which is true, the international standards
community has gotten involved. Now it's all in metric, and certified by
ISO, but the US table's been jiggered around so that 30-weight oil is
still 30-weight oil. Europeans always liked their oil spec'd in Saybolt
times; I have a Heidelberg press that lists the oil it needs in Saybolt
times. Then you call the oil company and ask for some oil with that
special rating, and what shows up? Straight 30-weight Shell Rotella
T...with an invoice for $425 for a 55-gallon drum. We buy it at Sam's
for $257 a drum now.)

You can go to the store, buy a quart of straight-weight oil and run it
through the two viscosimeters so you'll have a "multigrade" oil, but it
might be 750W30. To solve the problem, everyone's on the right track:
take an arctic oil with one viscosity and add polymers to modify the
weight/temp curve.

I remember in my misspent youth running into 20W20 Pennzoil. My dad
loved 20W20 Pennzoil in his Chrysler for some reason. Now he's into 5W30
Mobil 1.

Oh, the 0W oil? The arctic table does go that low. Why you'd want oil
that thin I have no idea.

--jmowreader
a fount of useless knowledge

 

In article <rvz2b.90049$Ij4.23983@news2.central.***.net>,
"Malcom Gillette" <1mgillette1@***.net> wrote:

> The first # refers to the base weight of the oil.


Oh my.

A multigrade oil has two numbers on it--say 10W30. They mean different
things.

The numbers refer to the oil's viscosity, as we all know. "Weight" in
this case is slang; if you were to put a quart of 10W30 on a scale next
to a quart of 20W50, there might be a few grams difference between the
two but nothing to write home about. They measure viscosity with a
Saybolt Viscosimeter, which is a bucket with a hole in the bottom of it.
Plug up the hole, put in some oil, open the hole and time the oil as it
drains. The longer it takes, the higher the viscosity. Compare the time
to a table that comes with the viscosimeter and you'll learn the oil's
weight.

The "10W" part is the oil's winter (sometimes called "arctic")
viscosity. It's measured at 0 degrees celsius. The viscosimeter is
different, with a larger hole than the summer viscosimeter, and the
table is different--the times are much longer because you're dealing
with a fluid the consistency of honey.

The "30" part is the oil's summer viscosity. It's measured at 100
degrees celsius through a viscosimeter with a little hole in it.

(Having said that, all of which is true, the international standards
community has gotten involved. Now it's all in metric, and certified by
ISO, but the US table's been jiggered around so that 30-weight oil is
still 30-weight oil. Europeans always liked their oil spec'd in Saybolt
times; I have a Heidelberg press that lists the oil it needs in Saybolt
times. Then you call the oil company and ask for some oil with that
special rating, and what shows up? Straight 30-weight Shell Rotella
T...with an invoice for $425 for a 55-gallon drum. We buy it at Sam's
for $257 a drum now.)

You can go to the store, buy a quart of straight-weight oil and run it
through the two viscosimeters so you'll have a "multigrade" oil, but it
might be 750W30. To solve the problem, everyone's on the right track:
take an arctic oil with one viscosity and add polymers to modify the
weight/temp curve.

I remember in my misspent youth running into 20W20 Pennzoil. My dad
loved 20W20 Pennzoil in his Chrysler for some reason. Now he's into 5W30
Mobil 1.

Oh, the 0W oil? The arctic table does go that low. Why you'd want oil
that thin I have no idea.

--jmowreader
a fount of useless knowledge

 

In article <bih1en$scn$1@enyo.uwa.edu.au>,
"Callan Bleechmore" <bleecc01@tartarus.uwa.edu.au> wrote:

> The are losses from heat, friction,
> etc. These losses may be minimised by the use of a better quality oil, hence
> increasing your bhp.
>
> That being said, these gains may not be worth the risk of possible damage
> and faster wear from poor lubrication.

Better quality oil = poorer lubrication? Dude, quit smokin' that stuff!

If you're minimizing your mechanical losses through lubrication, it
would follow that you're getting better lubrication than before. Not
worse.

--jmowreader

 

In article <bih1en$scn$1@enyo.uwa.edu.au>,
"Callan Bleechmore" <bleecc01@tartarus.uwa.edu.au> wrote:

> The are losses from heat, friction,
> etc. These losses may be minimised by the use of a better quality oil, hence
> increasing your bhp.
>
> That being said, these gains may not be worth the risk of possible damage
> and faster wear from poor lubrication.

Better quality oil = poorer lubrication? Dude, quit smokin' that stuff!

If you're minimizing your mechanical losses through lubrication, it
would follow that you're getting better lubrication than before. Not
worse.

--jmowreader

 

In article <bih1en$scn$1@enyo.uwa.edu.au>,
"Callan Bleechmore" <bleecc01@tartarus.uwa.edu.au> wrote:

> The are losses from heat, friction,
> etc. These losses may be minimised by the use of a better quality oil, hence
> increasing your bhp.
>
> That being said, these gains may not be worth the risk of possible damage
> and faster wear from poor lubrication.

Better quality oil = poorer lubrication? Dude, quit smokin' that stuff!

If you're minimizing your mechanical losses through lubrication, it
would follow that you're getting better lubrication than before. Not
worse.

--jmowreader