"Jay C." wrote:

> Okay, it looks like I will have to make a special tool out of an old bed
> rail or some other angle iron which spans the drive belt pulley face and has
> a couple of holes for bolts to go through the pulley (gently tightened).
> Four feet long should do it. I'll need to allow another hole for the
> socket/short breaker bar which will be anchored on the floor or engine
> compartment. Easy does it, so I don't bend the pulley when I use the four
> foot angle iron for my new lever/wrench.
>
> The alternative of pulling off the starter and wedging a large screw driver
> into the flywheel seems like too much work.
>
> ...pray for me ;-)
>
> Jay
>
> "Stephen Bigelow" <sbigelowXXX@rogers.com> wrote in message
> news:x6VTa.67453$zwL.13660@news04.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
> >
> > "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
> >
> > .
> > >
> > > Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
> lefty-loosey?
> >
> > Yes.
> >
> >

I used a piece of angle steel with 2 holes in it, securing the flywheel to the
transmission housing. that kept the crank from turning but still that darn
bolt is tight, a long piece of pipe over a 36 in breaker bar just managed to
snap my extensions, all of them, and all my sockets. eventually the bolt
did come out as noted before. impact wrench, impact socket, 160psi, and as
short of hose as possible (15ft) to the impact wrench.

its standard thread. lefty loosey.

 

"Jay C." wrote:

> Okay, it looks like I will have to make a special tool out of an old bed
> rail or some other angle iron which spans the drive belt pulley face and has
> a couple of holes for bolts to go through the pulley (gently tightened).
> Four feet long should do it. I'll need to allow another hole for the
> socket/short breaker bar which will be anchored on the floor or engine
> compartment. Easy does it, so I don't bend the pulley when I use the four
> foot angle iron for my new lever/wrench.
>
> The alternative of pulling off the starter and wedging a large screw driver
> into the flywheel seems like too much work.
>
> ...pray for me ;-)
>
> Jay
>
> "Stephen Bigelow" <sbigelowXXX@rogers.com> wrote in message
> news:x6VTa.67453$zwL.13660@news04.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
> >
> > "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
> >
> > .
> > >
> > > Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
> lefty-loosey?
> >
> > Yes.
> >
> >

I used a piece of angle steel with 2 holes in it, securing the flywheel to the
transmission housing. that kept the crank from turning but still that darn
bolt is tight, a long piece of pipe over a 36 in breaker bar just managed to
snap my extensions, all of them, and all my sockets. eventually the bolt
did come out as noted before. impact wrench, impact socket, 160psi, and as
short of hose as possible (15ft) to the impact wrench.

its standard thread. lefty loosey.

 

A word to the wise; get the crank bolt broken loose before you start on the
timing belt replacement project.

Fortunately my son works at a body and paint shop so we are going to load
the car onto the flatbed tow truck on Monday to go use his air impact
driver.

I do have a few choice words for Honda. :-)

Jay C.



"Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
news:hpZTa.123519$sY2.56015@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att. net...
> Thanks,
>
> I'm resting today to build up for the big day tomorrow. ;-) If I break two
> sockets, I'll tow the car somewhere to have someone else break their
socket
> with an air impact driver.
>
> Jay C.
>
>
> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <guest@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3F205835.6872B5A5@hotmail.com...
> > "Jay C." wrote:
> >
> > > Okay, it looks like I will have to make a special tool out of an old
bed
> > > rail or some other angle iron which spans the drive belt pulley face
and
> has
> > > a couple of holes for bolts to go through the pulley (gently
> tightened).
> > > Four feet long should do it. I'll need to allow another hole for the
> > > socket/short breaker bar which will be anchored on the floor or engine
> > > compartment. Easy does it, so I don't bend the pulley when I use the
> four
> > > foot angle iron for my new lever/wrench.
> > >
> > > The alternative of pulling off the starter and wedging a large screw
> driver
> > > into the flywheel seems like too much work.
> > >
> > > ...pray for me ;-)
> > >
> > > Jay
> > >
> > > "Stephen Bigelow" <sbigelowXXX@rogers.com> wrote in message
> > > news:x6VTa.67453$zwL.13660@news04.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
> > > >
> > > > "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
> > > >
> > > > .
> > > > >
> > > > > Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
> > > lefty-loosey?
> > > >
> > > > Yes.
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > I used a piece of angle steel with 2 holes in it, securing the flywheel
to
> the
> > transmission housing. that kept the crank from turning but still that
> darn
> > bolt is tight, a long piece of pipe over a 36 in breaker bar just
managed
> to
> > snap my extensions, all of them, and all my sockets. eventually the
> bolt
> > did come out as noted before. impact wrench, impact socket, 160psi,
and
> as
> > short of hose as possible (15ft) to the impact wrench.
> >
> > its standard thread. lefty loosey.
> >
>
>

 

A word to the wise; get the crank bolt broken loose before you start on the
timing belt replacement project.

Fortunately my son works at a body and paint shop so we are going to load
the car onto the flatbed tow truck on Monday to go use his air impact
driver.

I do have a few choice words for Honda. :-)

Jay C.



"Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
news:hpZTa.123519$sY2.56015@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att. net...
> Thanks,
>
> I'm resting today to build up for the big day tomorrow. ;-) If I break two
> sockets, I'll tow the car somewhere to have someone else break their
socket
> with an air impact driver.
>
> Jay C.
>
>
> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <guest@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3F205835.6872B5A5@hotmail.com...
> > "Jay C." wrote:
> >
> > > Okay, it looks like I will have to make a special tool out of an old
bed
> > > rail or some other angle iron which spans the drive belt pulley face
and
> has
> > > a couple of holes for bolts to go through the pulley (gently
> tightened).
> > > Four feet long should do it. I'll need to allow another hole for the
> > > socket/short breaker bar which will be anchored on the floor or engine
> > > compartment. Easy does it, so I don't bend the pulley when I use the
> four
> > > foot angle iron for my new lever/wrench.
> > >
> > > The alternative of pulling off the starter and wedging a large screw
> driver
> > > into the flywheel seems like too much work.
> > >
> > > ...pray for me ;-)
> > >
> > > Jay
> > >
> > > "Stephen Bigelow" <sbigelowXXX@rogers.com> wrote in message
> > > news:x6VTa.67453$zwL.13660@news04.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
> > > >
> > > > "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
> > > >
> > > > .
> > > > >
> > > > > Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
> > > lefty-loosey?
> > > >
> > > > Yes.
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > I used a piece of angle steel with 2 holes in it, securing the flywheel
to
> the
> > transmission housing. that kept the crank from turning but still that
> darn
> > bolt is tight, a long piece of pipe over a 36 in breaker bar just
managed
> to
> > snap my extensions, all of them, and all my sockets. eventually the
> bolt
> > did come out as noted before. impact wrench, impact socket, 160psi,
and
> as
> > short of hose as possible (15ft) to the impact wrench.
> >
> > its standard thread. lefty loosey.
> >
>
>

 

Your '95 200sx has a timing chain. The only reason you will ever have to
deal with the bolt will be if the front oil seal ever leaks.

On 7/25/03 8:47 PM, in article
e821bab6.0307251747.53ef6019@posting.google.com, "John D."
<jcdech@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Jay,
>
> Don't get angry with Honda...ALL crankshaft bolts are like that!
>
> My tiny 1973 Datsun 1200 engine for example...couldn't get the bolt
> loose no matter what technique I tried. Had to get help. I do not look
> forward to the day I have to get my 1995 Nissan 200SX SE's bolt loose
> but at only 24000 miles on it, it probably won't be any time soon.
>
> In short, expect it to be hard to get off no matter what brand of car.
>
> You're right, if you can't get it off you can't get the rest of the
> job done...you're stopped right up front.
>
> John D.
>
>
>
>
> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> news:<idhUa.145497$ye4.100256@sccrnsc01>...
>> A word to the wise; get the crank bolt broken loose before you start on the
>> timing belt replacement project.
>>
>> Fortunately my son works at a body and paint shop so we are going to load
>> the car onto the flatbed tow truck on Monday to go use his air impact
>> driver.
>>
>> I do have a few choice words for Honda. :-)
>>
>> Jay C.
>>
>>
>>
>> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
>> news:hpZTa.123519$sY2.56015@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att. net...
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> I'm resting today to build up for the big day tomorrow. ;-) If I break two
>>> sockets, I'll tow the car somewhere to have someone else break their
>> socket
>>> with an air impact driver.
>>>
>>> Jay C.
>>>
>>>
>>> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <guest@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:3F205835.6872B5A5@hotmail.com...
>>>> "Jay C." wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Okay, it looks like I will have to make a special tool out of an old
>> bed
>>>>> rail or some other angle iron which spans the drive belt pulley face
>> and
>> has
>>>>> a couple of holes for bolts to go through the pulley (gently
>> tightened).
>>>>> Four feet long should do it. I'll need to allow another hole for the
>>>>> socket/short breaker bar which will be anchored on the floor or engine
>>>>> compartment. Easy does it, so I don't bend the pulley when I use the
>> four
>>>>> foot angle iron for my new lever/wrench.
>>>>>
>>>>> The alternative of pulling off the starter and wedging a large screw
>> driver
>>>>> into the flywheel seems like too much work.
>>>>>
>>>>> ...pray for me ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>> Jay
>>>>>
>>>>> "Stephen Bigelow" <sbigelowXXX@rogers.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:x6VTa.67453$zwL.13660@news04.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
>> lefty-loosey?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yes.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I used a piece of angle steel with 2 holes in it, securing the flywheel
>> to
>> the
>>>> transmission housing. that kept the crank from turning but still that
>> darn
>>>> bolt is tight, a long piece of pipe over a 36 in breaker bar just
>> managed
>> to
>>>> snap my extensions, all of them, and all my sockets. eventually the
>> bolt
>>>> did come out as noted before. impact wrench, impact socket, 160psi,
>> and
>> as
>>>> short of hose as possible (15ft) to the impact wrench.
>>>>
>>>> its standard thread. lefty loosey.
>>>>
>>>
>>>

 

Your '95 200sx has a timing chain. The only reason you will ever have to
deal with the bolt will be if the front oil seal ever leaks.

On 7/25/03 8:47 PM, in article
e821bab6.0307251747.53ef6019@posting.google.com, "John D."
<jcdech@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Jay,
>
> Don't get angry with Honda...ALL crankshaft bolts are like that!
>
> My tiny 1973 Datsun 1200 engine for example...couldn't get the bolt
> loose no matter what technique I tried. Had to get help. I do not look
> forward to the day I have to get my 1995 Nissan 200SX SE's bolt loose
> but at only 24000 miles on it, it probably won't be any time soon.
>
> In short, expect it to be hard to get off no matter what brand of car.
>
> You're right, if you can't get it off you can't get the rest of the
> job done...you're stopped right up front.
>
> John D.
>
>
>
>
> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> news:<idhUa.145497$ye4.100256@sccrnsc01>...
>> A word to the wise; get the crank bolt broken loose before you start on the
>> timing belt replacement project.
>>
>> Fortunately my son works at a body and paint shop so we are going to load
>> the car onto the flatbed tow truck on Monday to go use his air impact
>> driver.
>>
>> I do have a few choice words for Honda. :-)
>>
>> Jay C.
>>
>>
>>
>> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
>> news:hpZTa.123519$sY2.56015@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att. net...
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> I'm resting today to build up for the big day tomorrow. ;-) If I break two
>>> sockets, I'll tow the car somewhere to have someone else break their
>> socket
>>> with an air impact driver.
>>>
>>> Jay C.
>>>
>>>
>>> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <guest@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> news:3F205835.6872B5A5@hotmail.com...
>>>> "Jay C." wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Okay, it looks like I will have to make a special tool out of an old
>> bed
>>>>> rail or some other angle iron which spans the drive belt pulley face
>> and
>> has
>>>>> a couple of holes for bolts to go through the pulley (gently
>> tightened).
>>>>> Four feet long should do it. I'll need to allow another hole for the
>>>>> socket/short breaker bar which will be anchored on the floor or engine
>>>>> compartment. Easy does it, so I don't bend the pulley when I use the
>> four
>>>>> foot angle iron for my new lever/wrench.
>>>>>
>>>>> The alternative of pulling off the starter and wedging a large screw
>> driver
>>>>> into the flywheel seems like too much work.
>>>>>
>>>>> ...pray for me ;-)
>>>>>
>>>>> Jay
>>>>>
>>>>> "Stephen Bigelow" <sbigelowXXX@rogers.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:x6VTa.67453$zwL.13660@news04.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
>> lefty-loosey?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yes.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I used a piece of angle steel with 2 holes in it, securing the flywheel
>> to
>> the
>>>> transmission housing. that kept the crank from turning but still that
>> darn
>>>> bolt is tight, a long piece of pipe over a 36 in breaker bar just
>> managed
>> to
>>>> snap my extensions, all of them, and all my sockets. eventually the
>> bolt
>>>> did come out as noted before. impact wrench, impact socket, 160psi,
>> and
>> as
>>>> short of hose as possible (15ft) to the impact wrench.
>>>>
>>>> its standard thread. lefty loosey.
>>>>
>>>
>>>

 

Yes, I knew about the Nissan having a chain, but you see I had to
remove my '73 Datsun 1200's crankshaft bolt to replace the timing
chain (when the car was about 24 years old at that time, it's still
running) and I expect to keep the Nissan "indefinitely" also.

BTW, the Datsun's ONE chain is a whole lot easier than the VTC DOHC
Nissan engine's TWO chains are going to be...and its associated gears,
etc.

But as you said, that shouldn't happen for a LONG time...if ever. I
hardly put any miles on the car, presently only about 3000-4000 a
year. At that rate, 100K will take me almost 19 years...I may not even
live long enough to worry about it! ;-)

John D.



"E. Meyer" <e.meyer@ieee.org> wrote in message news:<BB47F767.68DA%e.meyer@ieee.org>...
> Your '95 200sx has a timing chain. The only reason you will ever have to
> deal with the bolt will be if the front oil seal ever leaks.
>
> On 7/25/03 8:47 PM, in article
> e821bab6.0307251747.53ef6019@posting.google.com, "John D."
> <jcdech@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Jay,
> >
> > Don't get angry with Honda...ALL crankshaft bolts are like that!
> >
> > My tiny 1973 Datsun 1200 engine for example...couldn't get the bolt
> > loose no matter what technique I tried. Had to get help. I do not look
> > forward to the day I have to get my 1995 Nissan 200SX SE's bolt loose
> > but at only 24000 miles on it, it probably won't be any time soon.
> >
> > In short, expect it to be hard to get off no matter what brand of car.
> >
> > You're right, if you can't get it off you can't get the rest of the
> > job done...you're stopped right up front.
> >
> > John D.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > news:<idhUa.145497$ye4.100256@sccrnsc01>...
> >> A word to the wise; get the crank bolt broken loose before you start on the
> >> timing belt replacement project.
> >>
> >> Fortunately my son works at a body and paint shop so we are going to load
> >> the car onto the flatbed tow truck on Monday to go use his air impact
> >> driver.
> >>
> >> I do have a few choice words for Honda. :-)
> >>
> >> Jay C.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> >> news:hpZTa.123519$sY2.56015@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att. net...
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> I'm resting today to build up for the big day tomorrow. ;-) If I break two
> >>> sockets, I'll tow the car somewhere to have someone else break their
> socket
> >>> with an air impact driver.
> >>>
> >>> Jay C.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <guest@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >>> news:3F205835.6872B5A5@hotmail.com...
> >>>> "Jay C." wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Okay, it looks like I will have to make a special tool out of an old
> bed
> >>>>> rail or some other angle iron which spans the drive belt pulley face
> >> and
> >> has
> >>>>> a couple of holes for bolts to go through the pulley (gently
> tightened).
> >>>>> Four feet long should do it. I'll need to allow another hole for the
> >>>>> socket/short breaker bar which will be anchored on the floor or engine
> >>>>> compartment. Easy does it, so I don't bend the pulley when I use the
> four
> >>>>> foot angle iron for my new lever/wrench.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The alternative of pulling off the starter and wedging a large screw
> driver
> >>>>> into the flywheel seems like too much work.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> ...pray for me ;-)
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Jay
> >>>>>
> >>>>> "Stephen Bigelow" <sbigelowXXX@rogers.com> wrote in message
> >>>>> news:x6VTa.67453$zwL.13660@news04.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> >>>>>> news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> .
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
> lefty-loosey?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Yes.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> I used a piece of angle steel with 2 holes in it, securing the flywheel
> >> to
> >> the
> >>>> transmission housing. that kept the crank from turning but still that
> darn
> >>>> bolt is tight, a long piece of pipe over a 36 in breaker bar just
> >> managed
> >> to
> >>>> snap my extensions, all of them, and all my sockets. eventually the
> bolt
> >>>> did come out as noted before. impact wrench, impact socket, 160psi,
> >> and
> >> as
> >>>> short of hose as possible (15ft) to the impact wrench.
> >>>>
> >>>> its standard thread. lefty loosey.
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>

 

Yes, I knew about the Nissan having a chain, but you see I had to
remove my '73 Datsun 1200's crankshaft bolt to replace the timing
chain (when the car was about 24 years old at that time, it's still
running) and I expect to keep the Nissan "indefinitely" also.

BTW, the Datsun's ONE chain is a whole lot easier than the VTC DOHC
Nissan engine's TWO chains are going to be...and its associated gears,
etc.

But as you said, that shouldn't happen for a LONG time...if ever. I
hardly put any miles on the car, presently only about 3000-4000 a
year. At that rate, 100K will take me almost 19 years...I may not even
live long enough to worry about it! ;-)

John D.



"E. Meyer" <e.meyer@ieee.org> wrote in message news:<BB47F767.68DA%e.meyer@ieee.org>...
> Your '95 200sx has a timing chain. The only reason you will ever have to
> deal with the bolt will be if the front oil seal ever leaks.
>
> On 7/25/03 8:47 PM, in article
> e821bab6.0307251747.53ef6019@posting.google.com, "John D."
> <jcdech@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Jay,
> >
> > Don't get angry with Honda...ALL crankshaft bolts are like that!
> >
> > My tiny 1973 Datsun 1200 engine for example...couldn't get the bolt
> > loose no matter what technique I tried. Had to get help. I do not look
> > forward to the day I have to get my 1995 Nissan 200SX SE's bolt loose
> > but at only 24000 miles on it, it probably won't be any time soon.
> >
> > In short, expect it to be hard to get off no matter what brand of car.
> >
> > You're right, if you can't get it off you can't get the rest of the
> > job done...you're stopped right up front.
> >
> > John D.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > news:<idhUa.145497$ye4.100256@sccrnsc01>...
> >> A word to the wise; get the crank bolt broken loose before you start on the
> >> timing belt replacement project.
> >>
> >> Fortunately my son works at a body and paint shop so we are going to load
> >> the car onto the flatbed tow truck on Monday to go use his air impact
> >> driver.
> >>
> >> I do have a few choice words for Honda. :-)
> >>
> >> Jay C.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> >> news:hpZTa.123519$sY2.56015@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att. net...
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> I'm resting today to build up for the big day tomorrow. ;-) If I break two
> >>> sockets, I'll tow the car somewhere to have someone else break their
> socket
> >>> with an air impact driver.
> >>>
> >>> Jay C.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <guest@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> >>> news:3F205835.6872B5A5@hotmail.com...
> >>>> "Jay C." wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Okay, it looks like I will have to make a special tool out of an old
> bed
> >>>>> rail or some other angle iron which spans the drive belt pulley face
> >> and
> >> has
> >>>>> a couple of holes for bolts to go through the pulley (gently
> tightened).
> >>>>> Four feet long should do it. I'll need to allow another hole for the
> >>>>> socket/short breaker bar which will be anchored on the floor or engine
> >>>>> compartment. Easy does it, so I don't bend the pulley when I use the
> four
> >>>>> foot angle iron for my new lever/wrench.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The alternative of pulling off the starter and wedging a large screw
> driver
> >>>>> into the flywheel seems like too much work.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> ...pray for me ;-)
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Jay
> >>>>>
> >>>>> "Stephen Bigelow" <sbigelowXXX@rogers.com> wrote in message
> >>>>> news:x6VTa.67453$zwL.13660@news04.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> >>>>>> news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> .
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
> lefty-loosey?
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Yes.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> I used a piece of angle steel with 2 holes in it, securing the flywheel
> >> to
> >> the
> >>>> transmission housing. that kept the crank from turning but still that
> darn
> >>>> bolt is tight, a long piece of pipe over a 36 in breaker bar just
> >> managed
> >> to
> >>>> snap my extensions, all of them, and all my sockets. eventually the
> bolt
> >>>> did come out as noted before. impact wrench, impact socket, 160psi,
> >> and
> >> as
> >>>> short of hose as possible (15ft) to the impact wrench.
> >>>>
> >>>> its standard thread. lefty loosey.
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>>

 

For my Acura's I bought a special tool that holds the crank pulley in place
while torque is applied to the crank bolt. The tool fits the hex inside the
pulley and has an opening for the socket on the bolt to fit through. It
worked great but cost about $40. The same tool fits most Honda's as well.
I think the manufacturer is Scheley Products and the part number is SP
60100. I bought the tool on-line at thetoolwarehouse.net.
-Acura Legend Guy

"Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
> Umm. Is the pulley-to-crankshaft bolt a left or right handed? It is so
> friggin tight that I might have go to Pep Boys and buy one of there
> specialty PowerBuilt tools to help remove it. I borrowed an industrial
> strength electric impact driver but have been assuming the the bolt is
right
> handed.
>
> Some of the other suggestions on the Net were to use the starter in short
> bursts to help break loose the bolt. I don't like the idea but their
setup
> suggests that the bolt is a left handed one. The crank rotates ccw so if
a
> breaker bar were anchored in any location, the starter action would tend
to
> tighten the bolt if it were a right hand thead.
>
> Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or lefty-loosey?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jay C.
>
>
>
> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote in
> message news:3F1EF58E.4CC3810A@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > "Jay C." wrote:
> >
> > > Yeah, you're right. I will probably leave things alone if it is
> possible.
> > >
> > > The biggest problem I am having right now is trying to get the drive
> belt
> > > pulley-crank bolt loose. I can't take the bottom timing belt cover
off
> to
> > > finish the R & R of the timing belt until I do.
> > >
> > > Hopefully I can round up an impact driver. :-(
> > >
> > > Jay C.
> > >
> > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote
> in
> > > message news:3F1EE3A2.758C7D28@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I want
> to do
> > > a
> > > > > valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car
has
> > > nearly
> > > > > 1/4 million miles on it.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jay
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
> wrote
> > > in
> > > > > message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the car
> (in a
> > > > > cooler
> > > > > > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing several
> teeth
> > > in
> > > > > one
> > > > > > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow stop
at
> a
> > > > > traffic
> > > > > > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and she
> > > couldn't
> > > > > > > restart it.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to do
> any
> > > > > damage).
> > > > > > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I tried
to
> > > restart
> > > > > it.
> > > > > > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look for
> > > possible
> > > > > > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > > > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back
to
> the
> > > > > house.
> > > > > > > It
> > > > > > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in
the
> > > middle
> > > > > of a
> > > > > > > > busy intersection.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does sound
a
> > > little
> > > > > > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like it
is
> > > free
> > > > > > > wheeling
> > > > > > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess
> that
> > > could
> > > > > be
> > > > > > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert on
> this
> > > > > > > particular
> > > > > > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check
> first?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > install the new belt and necessary components then check the
> > > compression
> > > > > on
> > > > > > all cyclinders.
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > > > you may find if you rebuild the head, the lower end of the engine
may
> get
> > > > stressed more with the additional compression and quickly fail.
Ive
> seen
> > > this
> > > > happen on several vehichles with many miles on the odo, with a new
> /fresh
> > > > cyclinder head.
> > > >
> > > > should you decide to do the head work, its not much more work to
slap
> new
> > > > piston rings and rod bearings in the thing.
> > > > all assuming your capable of the task.
> > > >
> >
> > I had incredible difficulty removing mine as well as others, The impact
> wrench
> > with a short 15ft of hose and 160 psi finally broke the darn thing loose
> after
> > snapping 4 sockets, and 1 extension. try to use no extensions and a
good
> > impact socket, it makes all the difference.
> >
> > you will most likely have to anchor the flywheel or flexplate to the
> > transmission using some metal strapping to keep the engine from turing
> over.
> > someone on the web has a picture of the "flywheel anchor" on the web.
> > good luck
> >
>
>

 

For my Acura's I bought a special tool that holds the crank pulley in place
while torque is applied to the crank bolt. The tool fits the hex inside the
pulley and has an opening for the socket on the bolt to fit through. It
worked great but cost about $40. The same tool fits most Honda's as well.
I think the manufacturer is Scheley Products and the part number is SP
60100. I bought the tool on-line at thetoolwarehouse.net.
-Acura Legend Guy

"Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
> Umm. Is the pulley-to-crankshaft bolt a left or right handed? It is so
> friggin tight that I might have go to Pep Boys and buy one of there
> specialty PowerBuilt tools to help remove it. I borrowed an industrial
> strength electric impact driver but have been assuming the the bolt is
right
> handed.
>
> Some of the other suggestions on the Net were to use the starter in short
> bursts to help break loose the bolt. I don't like the idea but their
setup
> suggests that the bolt is a left handed one. The crank rotates ccw so if
a
> breaker bar were anchored in any location, the starter action would tend
to
> tighten the bolt if it were a right hand thead.
>
> Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or lefty-loosey?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jay C.
>
>
>
> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote in
> message news:3F1EF58E.4CC3810A@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > "Jay C." wrote:
> >
> > > Yeah, you're right. I will probably leave things alone if it is
> possible.
> > >
> > > The biggest problem I am having right now is trying to get the drive
> belt
> > > pulley-crank bolt loose. I can't take the bottom timing belt cover
off
> to
> > > finish the R & R of the timing belt until I do.
> > >
> > > Hopefully I can round up an impact driver. :-(
> > >
> > > Jay C.
> > >
> > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote
> in
> > > message news:3F1EE3A2.758C7D28@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I want
> to do
> > > a
> > > > > valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car
has
> > > nearly
> > > > > 1/4 million miles on it.
> > > > >
> > > > > Jay
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
> wrote
> > > in
> > > > > message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the car
> (in a
> > > > > cooler
> > > > > > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing several
> teeth
> > > in
> > > > > one
> > > > > > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow stop
at
> a
> > > > > traffic
> > > > > > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and she
> > > couldn't
> > > > > > > restart it.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to do
> any
> > > > > damage).
> > > > > > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I tried
to
> > > restart
> > > > > it.
> > > > > > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look for
> > > possible
> > > > > > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > > > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back
to
> the
> > > > > house.
> > > > > > > It
> > > > > > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in
the
> > > middle
> > > > > of a
> > > > > > > > busy intersection.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does sound
a
> > > little
> > > > > > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like it
is
> > > free
> > > > > > > wheeling
> > > > > > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess
> that
> > > could
> > > > > be
> > > > > > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert on
> this
> > > > > > > particular
> > > > > > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check
> first?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > install the new belt and necessary components then check the
> > > compression
> > > > > on
> > > > > > all cyclinders.
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > > > you may find if you rebuild the head, the lower end of the engine
may
> get
> > > > stressed more with the additional compression and quickly fail.
Ive
> seen
> > > this
> > > > happen on several vehichles with many miles on the odo, with a new
> /fresh
> > > > cyclinder head.
> > > >
> > > > should you decide to do the head work, its not much more work to
slap
> new
> > > > piston rings and rod bearings in the thing.
> > > > all assuming your capable of the task.
> > > >
> >
> > I had incredible difficulty removing mine as well as others, The impact
> wrench
> > with a short 15ft of hose and 160 psi finally broke the darn thing loose
> after
> > snapping 4 sockets, and 1 extension. try to use no extensions and a
good
> > impact socket, it makes all the difference.
> >
> > you will most likely have to anchor the flywheel or flexplate to the
> > transmission using some metal strapping to keep the engine from turing
> over.
> > someone on the web has a picture of the "flywheel anchor" on the web.
> > good luck
> >
>
>

 

I don't know why you people go to such hassle to try to save a few bucks. I
had two Civics and on both I had the dealer do the job. They charge less
than $300 and use only genuine Honda parts. The also changed all belts and
the water pump too. Oh, they also washed the cars after they were done.
Dave

"think2nd" <think2nd@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3f230daf_3@newsfeed...
> For my Acura's I bought a special tool that holds the crank pulley in
place
> while torque is applied to the crank bolt. The tool fits the hex inside
the
> pulley and has an opening for the socket on the bolt to fit through. It
> worked great but cost about $40. The same tool fits most Honda's as well.
> I think the manufacturer is Scheley Products and the part number is SP
> 60100. I bought the tool on-line at thetoolwarehouse.net.
> -Acura Legend Guy
>
> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
> > Umm. Is the pulley-to-crankshaft bolt a left or right handed? It is so
> > friggin tight that I might have go to Pep Boys and buy one of there
> > specialty PowerBuilt tools to help remove it. I borrowed an industrial
> > strength electric impact driver but have been assuming the the bolt is
> right
> > handed.
> >
> > Some of the other suggestions on the Net were to use the starter in
short
> > bursts to help break loose the bolt. I don't like the idea but their
> setup
> > suggests that the bolt is a left handed one. The crank rotates ccw so
if
> a
> > breaker bar were anchored in any location, the starter action would tend
> to
> > tighten the bolt if it were a right hand thead.
> >
> > Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
lefty-loosey?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jay C.
> >
> >
> >
> > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote
in
> > message news:3F1EF58E.4CC3810A@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > >
> > > > Yeah, you're right. I will probably leave things alone if it is
> > possible.
> > > >
> > > > The biggest problem I am having right now is trying to get the drive
> > belt
> > > > pulley-crank bolt loose. I can't take the bottom timing belt cover
> off
> > to
> > > > finish the R & R of the timing belt until I do.
> > > >
> > > > Hopefully I can round up an impact driver. :-(
> > > >
> > > > Jay C.
> > > >
> > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
wrote
> > in
> > > > message news:3F1EE3A2.758C7D28@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I
want
> > to do
> > > > a
> > > > > > valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car
> has
> > > > nearly
> > > > > > 1/4 million miles on it.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jay
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
> > wrote
> > > > in
> > > > > > message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the
car
> > (in a
> > > > > > cooler
> > > > > > > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing
several
> > teeth
> > > > in
> > > > > > one
> > > > > > > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow
stop
> at
> > a
> > > > > > traffic
> > > > > > > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and
she
> > > > couldn't
> > > > > > > > restart it.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to
do
> > any
> > > > > > damage).
> > > > > > > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I
tried
> to
> > > > restart
> > > > > > it.
> > > > > > > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look
for
> > > > possible
> > > > > > > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > > > > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back
> to
> > the
> > > > > > house.
> > > > > > > > It
> > > > > > > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in
> the
> > > > middle
> > > > > > of a
> > > > > > > > > busy intersection.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does
sound
> a
> > > > little
> > > > > > > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like
it
> is
> > > > free
> > > > > > > > wheeling
> > > > > > > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess
> > that
> > > > could
> > > > > > be
> > > > > > > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert
on
> > this
> > > > > > > > particular
> > > > > > > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check
> > first?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > install the new belt and necessary components then check the
> > > > compression
> > > > > > on
> > > > > > > all cyclinders.
> > > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > you may find if you rebuild the head, the lower end of the engine
> may
> > get
> > > > > stressed more with the additional compression and quickly fail.
> Ive
> > seen
> > > > this
> > > > > happen on several vehichles with many miles on the odo, with a new
> > /fresh
> > > > > cyclinder head.
> > > > >
> > > > > should you decide to do the head work, its not much more work to
> slap
> > new
> > > > > piston rings and rod bearings in the thing.
> > > > > all assuming your capable of the task.
> > > > >
> > >
> > > I had incredible difficulty removing mine as well as others, The
impact
> > wrench
> > > with a short 15ft of hose and 160 psi finally broke the darn thing
loose
> > after
> > > snapping 4 sockets, and 1 extension. try to use no extensions and a
> good
> > > impact socket, it makes all the difference.
> > >
> > > you will most likely have to anchor the flywheel or flexplate to the
> > > transmission using some metal strapping to keep the engine from turing
> > over.
> > > someone on the web has a picture of the "flywheel anchor" on the web.
> > > good luck
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

I don't know why you people go to such hassle to try to save a few bucks. I
had two Civics and on both I had the dealer do the job. They charge less
than $300 and use only genuine Honda parts. The also changed all belts and
the water pump too. Oh, they also washed the cars after they were done.
Dave

"think2nd" <think2nd@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3f230daf_3@newsfeed...
> For my Acura's I bought a special tool that holds the crank pulley in
place
> while torque is applied to the crank bolt. The tool fits the hex inside
the
> pulley and has an opening for the socket on the bolt to fit through. It
> worked great but cost about $40. The same tool fits most Honda's as well.
> I think the manufacturer is Scheley Products and the part number is SP
> 60100. I bought the tool on-line at thetoolwarehouse.net.
> -Acura Legend Guy
>
> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
> > Umm. Is the pulley-to-crankshaft bolt a left or right handed? It is so
> > friggin tight that I might have go to Pep Boys and buy one of there
> > specialty PowerBuilt tools to help remove it. I borrowed an industrial
> > strength electric impact driver but have been assuming the the bolt is
> right
> > handed.
> >
> > Some of the other suggestions on the Net were to use the starter in
short
> > bursts to help break loose the bolt. I don't like the idea but their
> setup
> > suggests that the bolt is a left handed one. The crank rotates ccw so
if
> a
> > breaker bar were anchored in any location, the starter action would tend
> to
> > tighten the bolt if it were a right hand thead.
> >
> > Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
lefty-loosey?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jay C.
> >
> >
> >
> > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote
in
> > message news:3F1EF58E.4CC3810A@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > >
> > > > Yeah, you're right. I will probably leave things alone if it is
> > possible.
> > > >
> > > > The biggest problem I am having right now is trying to get the drive
> > belt
> > > > pulley-crank bolt loose. I can't take the bottom timing belt cover
> off
> > to
> > > > finish the R & R of the timing belt until I do.
> > > >
> > > > Hopefully I can round up an impact driver. :-(
> > > >
> > > > Jay C.
> > > >
> > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
wrote
> > in
> > > > message news:3F1EE3A2.758C7D28@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I
want
> > to do
> > > > a
> > > > > > valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car
> has
> > > > nearly
> > > > > > 1/4 million miles on it.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jay
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
> > wrote
> > > > in
> > > > > > message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the
car
> > (in a
> > > > > > cooler
> > > > > > > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing
several
> > teeth
> > > > in
> > > > > > one
> > > > > > > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow
stop
> at
> > a
> > > > > > traffic
> > > > > > > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and
she
> > > > couldn't
> > > > > > > > restart it.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to
do
> > any
> > > > > > damage).
> > > > > > > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I
tried
> to
> > > > restart
> > > > > > it.
> > > > > > > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look
for
> > > > possible
> > > > > > > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > > > > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back
> to
> > the
> > > > > > house.
> > > > > > > > It
> > > > > > > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in
> the
> > > > middle
> > > > > > of a
> > > > > > > > > busy intersection.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does
sound
> a
> > > > little
> > > > > > > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like
it
> is
> > > > free
> > > > > > > > wheeling
> > > > > > > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess
> > that
> > > > could
> > > > > > be
> > > > > > > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert
on
> > this
> > > > > > > > particular
> > > > > > > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check
> > first?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > install the new belt and necessary components then check the
> > > > compression
> > > > > > on
> > > > > > > all cyclinders.
> > > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > you may find if you rebuild the head, the lower end of the engine
> may
> > get
> > > > > stressed more with the additional compression and quickly fail.
> Ive
> > seen
> > > > this
> > > > > happen on several vehichles with many miles on the odo, with a new
> > /fresh
> > > > > cyclinder head.
> > > > >
> > > > > should you decide to do the head work, its not much more work to
> slap
> > new
> > > > > piston rings and rod bearings in the thing.
> > > > > all assuming your capable of the task.
> > > > >
> > >
> > > I had incredible difficulty removing mine as well as others, The
impact
> > wrench
> > > with a short 15ft of hose and 160 psi finally broke the darn thing
loose
> > after
> > > snapping 4 sockets, and 1 extension. try to use no extensions and a
> good
> > > impact socket, it makes all the difference.
> > >
> > > you will most likely have to anchor the flywheel or flexplate to the
> > > transmission using some metal strapping to keep the engine from turing
> > over.
> > > someone on the web has a picture of the "flywheel anchor" on the web.
> > > good luck
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

"Dave" <dave1027@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:u4ednV3IAfQTxbiiU-KYgw@comcast.com...
> I don't know why you people go to such hassle to try to save a few bucks.
I
> had two Civics and on both I had the dealer do the job. They charge less
> than $300 and use only genuine Honda parts. The also changed all belts
and
> the water pump too. Oh, they also washed the cars after they were done.
> Dave

I spent about $350Cdn in Honda OEM parts alone doing my Accord.

> "think2nd" <think2nd@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3f230daf_3@newsfeed...
> > For my Acura's I bought a special tool that holds the crank pulley in
> place
> > while torque is applied to the crank bolt. The tool fits the hex inside
> the
> > pulley and has an opening for the socket on the bolt to fit through. It
> > worked great but cost about $40. The same tool fits most Honda's as
well.
> > I think the manufacturer is Scheley Products and the part number is SP
> > 60100. I bought the tool on-line at thetoolwarehouse.net.
> > -Acura Legend Guy
> >
> > "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
> > > Umm. Is the pulley-to-crankshaft bolt a left or right handed? It is
so
> > > friggin tight that I might have go to Pep Boys and buy one of there
> > > specialty PowerBuilt tools to help remove it. I borrowed an
industrial
> > > strength electric impact driver but have been assuming the the bolt is
> > right
> > > handed.
> > >
> > > Some of the other suggestions on the Net were to use the starter in
> short
> > > bursts to help break loose the bolt. I don't like the idea but their
> > setup
> > > suggests that the bolt is a left handed one. The crank rotates ccw so
> if
> > a
> > > breaker bar were anchored in any location, the starter action would
tend
> > to
> > > tighten the bolt if it were a right hand thead.
> > >
> > > Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
> lefty-loosey?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Jay C.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote
> in
> > > message news:3F1EF58E.4CC3810A@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Yeah, you're right. I will probably leave things alone if it is
> > > possible.
> > > > >
> > > > > The biggest problem I am having right now is trying to get the
drive
> > > belt
> > > > > pulley-crank bolt loose. I can't take the bottom timing belt
cover
> > off
> > > to
> > > > > finish the R & R of the timing belt until I do.
> > > > >
> > > > > Hopefully I can round up an impact driver. :-(
> > > > >
> > > > > Jay C.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
> wrote
> > > in
> > > > > message news:3F1EE3A2.758C7D28@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I
> want
> > > to do
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The
car
> > has
> > > > > nearly
> > > > > > > 1/4 million miles on it.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Jay
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185"
<mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
> > > wrote
> > > > > in
> > > > > > > message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the
> car
> > > (in a
> > > > > > > cooler
> > > > > > > > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing
> several
> > > teeth
> > > > > in
> > > > > > > one
> > > > > > > > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow
> stop
> > at
> > > a
> > > > > > > traffic
> > > > > > > > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and
> she
> > > > > couldn't
> > > > > > > > > restart it.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to
> do
> > > any
> > > > > > > damage).
> > > > > > > > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I
> tried
> > to
> > > > > restart
> > > > > > > it.
> > > > > > > > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look
> for
> > > > > possible
> > > > > > > > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > > > > > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX
back
> > to
> > > the
> > > > > > > house.
> > > > > > > > > It
> > > > > > > > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit
in
> > the
> > > > > middle
> > > > > > > of a
> > > > > > > > > > busy intersection.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does
> sound
> > a
> > > > > little
> > > > > > > > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like
> it
> > is
> > > > > free
> > > > > > > > > wheeling
> > > > > > > > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I
guess
> > > that
> > > > > could
> > > > > > > be
> > > > > > > > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert
> on
> > > this
> > > > > > > > > particular
> > > > > > > > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check
> > > first?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > install the new belt and necessary components then check
the
> > > > > compression
> > > > > > > on
> > > > > > > > all cyclinders.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > you may find if you rebuild the head, the lower end of the
engine
> > may
> > > get
> > > > > > stressed more with the additional compression and quickly fail.
> > Ive
> > > seen
> > > > > this
> > > > > > happen on several vehichles with many miles on the odo, with a
new
> > > /fresh
> > > > > > cyclinder head.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > should you decide to do the head work, its not much more work
to
> > slap
> > > new
> > > > > > piston rings and rod bearings in the thing.
> > > > > > all assuming your capable of the task.
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > > > I had incredible difficulty removing mine as well as others, The
> impact
> > > wrench
> > > > with a short 15ft of hose and 160 psi finally broke the darn thing
> loose
> > > after
> > > > snapping 4 sockets, and 1 extension. try to use no extensions and a
> > good
> > > > impact socket, it makes all the difference.
> > > >
> > > > you will most likely have to anchor the flywheel or flexplate to the
> > > > transmission using some metal strapping to keep the engine from
turing
> > > over.
> > > > someone on the web has a picture of the "flywheel anchor" on the
web.
> > > > good luck
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

"Dave" <dave1027@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:u4ednV3IAfQTxbiiU-KYgw@comcast.com...
> I don't know why you people go to such hassle to try to save a few bucks.
I
> had two Civics and on both I had the dealer do the job. They charge less
> than $300 and use only genuine Honda parts. The also changed all belts
and
> the water pump too. Oh, they also washed the cars after they were done.
> Dave

I spent about $350Cdn in Honda OEM parts alone doing my Accord.

> "think2nd" <think2nd@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:3f230daf_3@newsfeed...
> > For my Acura's I bought a special tool that holds the crank pulley in
> place
> > while torque is applied to the crank bolt. The tool fits the hex inside
> the
> > pulley and has an opening for the socket on the bolt to fit through. It
> > worked great but cost about $40. The same tool fits most Honda's as
well.
> > I think the manufacturer is Scheley Products and the part number is SP
> > 60100. I bought the tool on-line at thetoolwarehouse.net.
> > -Acura Legend Guy
> >
> > "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
> > > Umm. Is the pulley-to-crankshaft bolt a left or right handed? It is
so
> > > friggin tight that I might have go to Pep Boys and buy one of there
> > > specialty PowerBuilt tools to help remove it. I borrowed an
industrial
> > > strength electric impact driver but have been assuming the the bolt is
> > right
> > > handed.
> > >
> > > Some of the other suggestions on the Net were to use the starter in
> short
> > > bursts to help break loose the bolt. I don't like the idea but their
> > setup
> > > suggests that the bolt is a left handed one. The crank rotates ccw so
> if
> > a
> > > breaker bar were anchored in any location, the starter action would
tend
> > to
> > > tighten the bolt if it were a right hand thead.
> > >
> > > Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
> lefty-loosey?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Jay C.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote
> in
> > > message news:3F1EF58E.4CC3810A@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Yeah, you're right. I will probably leave things alone if it is
> > > possible.
> > > > >
> > > > > The biggest problem I am having right now is trying to get the
drive
> > > belt
> > > > > pulley-crank bolt loose. I can't take the bottom timing belt
cover
> > off
> > > to
> > > > > finish the R & R of the timing belt until I do.
> > > > >
> > > > > Hopefully I can round up an impact driver. :-(
> > > > >
> > > > > Jay C.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
> wrote
> > > in
> > > > > message news:3F1EE3A2.758C7D28@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I
> want
> > > to do
> > > > > a
> > > > > > > valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The
car
> > has
> > > > > nearly
> > > > > > > 1/4 million miles on it.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Jay
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185"
<mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
> > > wrote
> > > > > in
> > > > > > > message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the
> car
> > > (in a
> > > > > > > cooler
> > > > > > > > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing
> several
> > > teeth
> > > > > in
> > > > > > > one
> > > > > > > > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow
> stop
> > at
> > > a
> > > > > > > traffic
> > > > > > > > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and
> she
> > > > > couldn't
> > > > > > > > > restart it.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to
> do
> > > any
> > > > > > > damage).
> > > > > > > > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I
> tried
> > to
> > > > > restart
> > > > > > > it.
> > > > > > > > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look
> for
> > > > > possible
> > > > > > > > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > > > > > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX
back
> > to
> > > the
> > > > > > > house.
> > > > > > > > > It
> > > > > > > > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit
in
> > the
> > > > > middle
> > > > > > > of a
> > > > > > > > > > busy intersection.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does
> sound
> > a
> > > > > little
> > > > > > > > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like
> it
> > is
> > > > > free
> > > > > > > > > wheeling
> > > > > > > > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I
guess
> > > that
> > > > > could
> > > > > > > be
> > > > > > > > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert
> on
> > > this
> > > > > > > > > particular
> > > > > > > > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check
> > > first?
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > install the new belt and necessary components then check
the
> > > > > compression
> > > > > > > on
> > > > > > > > all cyclinders.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > you may find if you rebuild the head, the lower end of the
engine
> > may
> > > get
> > > > > > stressed more with the additional compression and quickly fail.
> > Ive
> > > seen
> > > > > this
> > > > > > happen on several vehichles with many miles on the odo, with a
new
> > > /fresh
> > > > > > cyclinder head.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > should you decide to do the head work, its not much more work
to
> > slap
> > > new
> > > > > > piston rings and rod bearings in the thing.
> > > > > > all assuming your capable of the task.
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > > > I had incredible difficulty removing mine as well as others, The
> impact
> > > wrench
> > > > with a short 15ft of hose and 160 psi finally broke the darn thing
> loose
> > > after
> > > > snapping 4 sockets, and 1 extension. try to use no extensions and a
> > good
> > > > impact socket, it makes all the difference.
> > > >
> > > > you will most likely have to anchor the flywheel or flexplate to the
> > > > transmission using some metal strapping to keep the engine from
turing
> > > over.
> > > > someone on the web has a picture of the "flywheel anchor" on the
web.
> > > > good luck
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>

 

Very nice, Dave, but how about the guy making only $400-$600/month?
Retired or otherwise. He has plenty to worry about. Count your
blessings.

All through life, retired or not, either you pay someone else to do
the work -- have the big bucks/income available and HOPE it's done
right even at that -- or, you don't have the $$ and are forced to DIY.
In the latter case, no one else is going to do it if YOU don't. So I
do a lot of "quality reading" on occasion: auto
service/repair/troubleshooting/parts manuals -- and here in the
Honda/Toyota and Nissan newsgroups -- and hope at least regular
maintenance with quality fliuds/filters forestalls/prevents any
trouble down the road. And I drive my cars gently, don't abuse
them...that helps A LOT.

But I DO take it in to the shop when I have tried everything I can
think of to solve the problem but still can't find it, or, it's
something out of my area of expertise. For example, I will NOT get out
my cordless drill, put in a huge bit, hold the block between my feet
and rebore the cylinders! I used to do that -- just eyeball the bore
measurements in fact, and tried to hold the drill completely vertical
-- but that didn't work to well! Just kidding. ;-)

In those cases (very rare fortunately), it goes in to the shop. But
it's still tough coming up with the money sometimes.

John D.




"Dave" <dave1027@comcast.net> wrote in message news:<YQ2dnYXS8uZri7uiXTWJjA@comcast.com>...
> No, I'm not rich, not yet any way. I'm kind of middle class. If I was rich
> would I be driving Honda Civics? I'm just a guy that has been there and
> done that. I found out long ago that life is too short to be spending it
> worrying about how I'm going to get the crank bolt off. $300 is not a bad
> trade for peace of mind.
>
> Dave
>
>
> "John D." <jcdech@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:e821bab6.0307281411.7bcd708@posting.google.co m...
> > Dave,
> >
> > Possibly because SOME people here just may be on a very small fixed
> > income (like SS...or a SMALL VA disability as in my case) and if it
> > saves LABOR costs, it's of great interest...$300 is HALF of some
> > people's monthly income.
> >
> > As for parts, some of us need to shop around for the lowest prices for
> > them, too.
> >
> > We all don't make big money like you might -- really can't afford to
> > take it in even just for a diagnostics every time something happens --
> > or if you don't make big bucks, we probably care more about how/where
> > it's spent than you do. It has nothing to do with being cheap or a
> > tightwad.
> >
> > Finally, as for saving on labor costs, lots of DIYers do BETTER work
> > than the shops anyway! I know I do. I HATE to take it in for that
> > reason alone...you can't always watch the monkeys these every second
> > you know.
> >
> > John D.
> >
> >
> >
> > "Dave" <dave1027@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:<u4ednV3IAfQTxbiiU-KYgw@comcast.com>...
> > > I don't know why you people go to such hassle to try to save a few
> bucks. I
> > > had two Civics and on both I had the dealer do the job. They charge
> less
> > > than $300 and use only genuine Honda parts. The also changed all belts
> and
> > > the water pump too. Oh, they also washed the cars after they were done.
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > "think2nd" <think2nd@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:3f230daf_3@newsfeed...
> > > > For my Acura's I bought a special tool that holds the crank pulley in
> place
> > > > while torque is applied to the crank bolt. The tool fits the hex
> inside
> the
> > > > pulley and has an opening for the socket on the bolt to fit through.
> It
> > > > worked great but cost about $40. The same tool fits most Honda's as
> well.
> > > > I think the manufacturer is Scheley Products and the part number is SP
> > > > 60100. I bought the tool on-line at thetoolwarehouse.net.
> > > > -Acura Legend Guy
> > > >
> > > > "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
> > > > > Umm. Is the pulley-to-crankshaft bolt a left or right handed? It
> is so
> > > > > friggin tight that I might have go to Pep Boys and buy one of there
> > > > > specialty PowerBuilt tools to help remove it. I borrowed an
> industrial
> > > > > strength electric impact driver but have been assuming the the bolt
> is
> right
> > > > > handed.
> > > > >
> > > > > Some of the other suggestions on the Net were to use the starter in
> short
> > > > > bursts to help break loose the bolt. I don't like the idea but
> their
> setup
> > > > > suggests that the bolt is a left handed one. The crank rotates ccw
> so
> > > if
> > > a
> > > > > breaker bar were anchored in any location, the starter action would
> tend
> to
> > > > > tighten the bolt if it were a right hand thead.
> > > > >
> > > > > Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
> lefty-loosey?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Jay C.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
> wrote
> in
> > > > > message news:3F1EF58E.4CC3810A@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > > Yeah, you're right. I will probably leave things alone if it is
> possible.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The biggest problem I am having right now is trying to get the
> drive
> belt
> > > > > > > pulley-crank bolt loose. I can't take the bottom timing belt
> cover
> > > off
> > > to
> > > > > > > finish the R & R of the timing belt until I do.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Hopefully I can round up an impact driver. :-(
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
> > > wrote
> > > in
> > > > > > > message news:3F1EE3A2.758C7D28@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Thanks,
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if
> I
> > > want
> > > to do
> > > a
> > > > > > > > > valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The
> car
> > > has
> > > nearly
> > > > > > > > > 1/4 million miles on it.
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > Jay
> > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185"
> <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
> > > wrote
> > > in
> > > > > > > > > message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > > > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating
> the
> > > car
> > > (in a
> > > cooler
> > > > > > > > > > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing
> > > several
> > > teeth
> > > in
> > > one
> > > > > > > > > > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow
> > > stop
> > > at
> > > a
> > > traffic
> > > > > > > > > > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled
> and
> > > she
> > > couldn't
> > > > > > > > > > > restart it.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough
> to
> > > do
> > > any
> > > damage).
> > > > > > > > > > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I
> > > tried
> > > to
> > > restart
> > > it.
> > > > > > > > > > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I
> look
> > > for
> > > possible
> > > > > > > > > > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > > > > > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > > > > > > > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX
> back
> > > to
> > > the
> > > house.
> > > It
> > > > > > > > > > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car
> quit in
> > > the
> > > middle
> > > of a
> > > > > > > > > > > > busy intersection.
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does
> > > sound
> > > a
> > > little
> > > > > > > > > > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more
> like
> > > it
> > > is
> > > free
> > > wheeling
> > > > > > > > > > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I
> guess
> > > that
> > > could
> > > be
> > > > > > > > > > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an
> expert
> > > on
> > > this
> > > particular
> > > > > > > > > > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to
> check
> first?
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > > > install the new belt and necessary components then check
> the
> > > compression
> > > on
> > > > > > > > > > all cyclinders.
> > > > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > you may find if you rebuild the head, the lower end of the
> engine
> > > may
> > > get
> > > > > > > > stressed more with the additional compression and quickly
> fail.
> > > Ive
> > > seen
> > > this
> > > > > > > > happen on several vehichles with many miles on the odo, with a
> new
> /fresh
> > > > > > > > cyclinder head.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > > > > should you decide to do the head work, its not much more work
> to
> > > slap
> > > new
> > > > > > > > piston rings and rod bearings in the thing.
> > > > > > > > all assuming your capable of the task.
> > > > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I had incredible difficulty removing mine as well as others, The
> > > impact
> > > wrench
> > > > > > with a short 15ft of hose and 160 psi finally broke the darn thing
> > > loose
> > > after
> > > > > > snapping 4 sockets, and 1 extension. try to use no extensions and
> a
> good
> > > > > > impact socket, it makes all the difference.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > you will most likely have to anchor the flywheel or flexplate to
> the
> > > > > > transmission using some metal strapping to keep the engine from
> turing
> over.
> > > > > > someone on the web has a picture of the "flywheel anchor" on the
> web.
> > > > > > good luck
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >