Thanks,

I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I want to do a
valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car has nearly
1/4 million miles on it.

Jay


"Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote in
message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> "Jay C." wrote:
>
> > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the car (in a
cooler
> > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing several teeth in
one
> > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> >
> > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow stop at a
traffic
> > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and she couldn't
> > restart it.
> >
> > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to do any
damage).
> > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I tried to restart
it.
> > The timing sounded like it was off.
> >
> > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look for possible
> > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> >
> > Jay C.
> >
> > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back to the
house.
> > It
> > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in the middle
of a
> > > busy intersection.
> > >
> > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does sound a little
> > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like it is free
> > wheeling
> > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess that could
be
> > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert on this
> > particular
> > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check first?
> > >
> > > Jay C.
> > >
> > >
>
> install the new belt and necessary components then check the compression
on
> all cyclinders.
>

 

"Jay C." wrote:

> Thanks,
>
> I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I want to do a
> valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car has nearly
> 1/4 million miles on it.
>
> Jay
>
> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote in
> message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > "Jay C." wrote:
> >
> > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the car (in a
> cooler
> > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing several teeth in
> one
> > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > >
> > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow stop at a
> traffic
> > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and she couldn't
> > > restart it.
> > >
> > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to do any
> damage).
> > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I tried to restart
> it.
> > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > >
> > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look for possible
> > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > >
> > > Jay C.
> > >
> > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back to the
> house.
> > > It
> > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in the middle
> of a
> > > > busy intersection.
> > > >
> > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does sound a little
> > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like it is free
> > > wheeling
> > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess that could
> be
> > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert on this
> > > particular
> > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check first?
> > > >
> > > > Jay C.
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > install the new belt and necessary components then check the compression
> on
> > all cyclinders.
> >

you may find if you rebuild the head, the lower end of the engine may get
stressed more with the additional compression and quickly fail. Ive seen this
happen on several vehichles with many miles on the odo, with a new /fresh
cyclinder head.

should you decide to do the head work, its not much more work to slap new
piston rings and rod bearings in the thing.
all assuming your capable of the task.

 

"Jay C." wrote:

> Thanks,
>
> I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I want to do a
> valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car has nearly
> 1/4 million miles on it.
>
> Jay
>
> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote in
> message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > "Jay C." wrote:
> >
> > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the car (in a
> cooler
> > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing several teeth in
> one
> > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > >
> > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow stop at a
> traffic
> > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and she couldn't
> > > restart it.
> > >
> > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to do any
> damage).
> > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I tried to restart
> it.
> > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > >
> > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look for possible
> > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > >
> > > Jay C.
> > >
> > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back to the
> house.
> > > It
> > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in the middle
> of a
> > > > busy intersection.
> > > >
> > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does sound a little
> > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like it is free
> > > wheeling
> > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess that could
> be
> > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert on this
> > > particular
> > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check first?
> > > >
> > > > Jay C.
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > install the new belt and necessary components then check the compression
> on
> > all cyclinders.
> >

you may find if you rebuild the head, the lower end of the engine may get
stressed more with the additional compression and quickly fail. Ive seen this
happen on several vehichles with many miles on the odo, with a new /fresh
cyclinder head.

should you decide to do the head work, its not much more work to slap new
piston rings and rod bearings in the thing.
all assuming your capable of the task.

 

"Jay C." wrote:

> Yeah, you're right. I will probably leave things alone if it is possible.
>
> The biggest problem I am having right now is trying to get the drive belt
> pulley-crank bolt loose. I can't take the bottom timing belt cover off to
> finish the R & R of the timing belt until I do.
>
> Hopefully I can round up an impact driver. :-(
>
> Jay C.
>
> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote in
> message news:3F1EE3A2.758C7D28@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > "Jay C." wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I want to do
> a
> > > valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car has
> nearly
> > > 1/4 million miles on it.
> > >
> > > Jay
> > >
> > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote
> in
> > > message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the car (in a
> > > cooler
> > > > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing several teeth
> in
> > > one
> > > > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > > > >
> > > > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow stop at a
> > > traffic
> > > > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and she
> couldn't
> > > > > restart it.
> > > > >
> > > > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to do any
> > > damage).
> > > > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I tried to
> restart
> > > it.
> > > > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > > > >
> > > > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look for
> possible
> > > > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > > > >
> > > > > Jay C.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back to the
> > > house.
> > > > > It
> > > > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in the
> middle
> > > of a
> > > > > > busy intersection.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does sound a
> little
> > > > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like it is
> free
> > > > > wheeling
> > > > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess that
> could
> > > be
> > > > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert on this
> > > > > particular
> > > > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check first?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > > > install the new belt and necessary components then check the
> compression
> > > on
> > > > all cyclinders.
> > > >
> >
> > you may find if you rebuild the head, the lower end of the engine may get
> > stressed more with the additional compression and quickly fail. Ive seen
> this
> > happen on several vehichles with many miles on the odo, with a new /fresh
> > cyclinder head.
> >
> > should you decide to do the head work, its not much more work to slap new
> > piston rings and rod bearings in the thing.
> > all assuming your capable of the task.
> >

I had incredible difficulty removing mine as well as others, The impact wrench
with a short 15ft of hose and 160 psi finally broke the darn thing loose after
snapping 4 sockets, and 1 extension. try to use no extensions and a good
impact socket, it makes all the difference.

you will most likely have to anchor the flywheel or flexplate to the
transmission using some metal strapping to keep the engine from turing over.
someone on the web has a picture of the "flywheel anchor" on the web.
good luck

 

"Jay C." wrote:

> Yeah, you're right. I will probably leave things alone if it is possible.
>
> The biggest problem I am having right now is trying to get the drive belt
> pulley-crank bolt loose. I can't take the bottom timing belt cover off to
> finish the R & R of the timing belt until I do.
>
> Hopefully I can round up an impact driver. :-(
>
> Jay C.
>
> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote in
> message news:3F1EE3A2.758C7D28@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > "Jay C." wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I want to do
> a
> > > valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car has
> nearly
> > > 1/4 million miles on it.
> > >
> > > Jay
> > >
> > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote
> in
> > > message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the car (in a
> > > cooler
> > > > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing several teeth
> in
> > > one
> > > > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > > > >
> > > > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow stop at a
> > > traffic
> > > > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and she
> couldn't
> > > > > restart it.
> > > > >
> > > > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to do any
> > > damage).
> > > > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I tried to
> restart
> > > it.
> > > > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > > > >
> > > > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look for
> possible
> > > > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > > > >
> > > > > Jay C.
> > > > >
> > > > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back to the
> > > house.
> > > > > It
> > > > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in the
> middle
> > > of a
> > > > > > busy intersection.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does sound a
> little
> > > > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like it is
> free
> > > > > wheeling
> > > > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess that
> could
> > > be
> > > > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert on this
> > > > > particular
> > > > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check first?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > >
> > > > install the new belt and necessary components then check the
> compression
> > > on
> > > > all cyclinders.
> > > >
> >
> > you may find if you rebuild the head, the lower end of the engine may get
> > stressed more with the additional compression and quickly fail. Ive seen
> this
> > happen on several vehichles with many miles on the odo, with a new /fresh
> > cyclinder head.
> >
> > should you decide to do the head work, its not much more work to slap new
> > piston rings and rod bearings in the thing.
> > all assuming your capable of the task.
> >

I had incredible difficulty removing mine as well as others, The impact wrench
with a short 15ft of hose and 160 psi finally broke the darn thing loose after
snapping 4 sockets, and 1 extension. try to use no extensions and a good
impact socket, it makes all the difference.

you will most likely have to anchor the flywheel or flexplate to the
transmission using some metal strapping to keep the engine from turing over.
someone on the web has a picture of the "flywheel anchor" on the web.
good luck

 

Well, as you said, since you went that far already...

If you're going to keep the car and you can afford it all now, may was
well do it all NOW rather than later.

John D.




"Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message news:<llATa.114868$wk6.30051@rwcrnsc52.ops.asp.att .net>...
> Thanks,
>
> I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I want to do a
> valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car has nearly
> 1/4 million miles on it.
>
> Jay
>
>
> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote in
> message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > "Jay C." wrote:
> >
> > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the car (in a
> cooler
> > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing several teeth in
> one
> > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > >
> > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow stop at a
> traffic
> > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and she couldn't
> > > restart it.
> > >
> > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to do any
> damage).
> > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I tried to restart
> it.
> > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > >
> > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look for possible
> > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > >
> > > Jay C.
> > >
> > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back to the
> house.
> It
> > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in the middle
> of a
> > > > busy intersection.
> > > >
> > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does sound a little
> > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like it is free
> wheeling
> > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess that could
> be
> > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert on this
> particular
> > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check first?
> > > >
> > > > Jay C.
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > install the new belt and necessary components then check the compression
> on
> > all cyclinders.
> >

 

Well, as you said, since you went that far already...

If you're going to keep the car and you can afford it all now, may was
well do it all NOW rather than later.

John D.




"Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message news:<llATa.114868$wk6.30051@rwcrnsc52.ops.asp.att .net>...
> Thanks,
>
> I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I want to do a
> valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car has nearly
> 1/4 million miles on it.
>
> Jay
>
>
> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote in
> message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > "Jay C." wrote:
> >
> > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the car (in a
> cooler
> > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing several teeth in
> one
> > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > >
> > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow stop at a
> traffic
> > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and she couldn't
> > > restart it.
> > >
> > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to do any
> damage).
> > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I tried to restart
> it.
> > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > >
> > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look for possible
> > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > >
> > > Jay C.
> > >
> > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back to the
> house.
> It
> > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in the middle
> of a
> > > > busy intersection.
> > > >
> > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does sound a little
> > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like it is free
> wheeling
> > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess that could
> be
> > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert on this
> particular
> > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check first?
> > > >
> > > > Jay C.
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > install the new belt and necessary components then check the compression
> on
> > all cyclinders.
> >

 

PostScript.

I forgot to add that 250,000 miles is a lot...do what you can now on
the head with that many miles on the car...at least you won't have to
worry about head problems for a long while...it'll probably be
something else!

John D.




"Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message news:<llATa.114868$wk6.30051@rwcrnsc52.ops.asp.att .net>...
> Thanks,
>
> I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I want to do a
> valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car has nearly
> 1/4 million miles on it.
>
> Jay
>
>
> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote in
> message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > "Jay C." wrote:
> >
> > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the car (in a
> cooler
> > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing several teeth in
> one
> > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > >
> > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow stop at a
> traffic
> > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and she couldn't
> > > restart it.
> > >
> > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to do any
> damage).
> > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I tried to restart
> it.
> > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > >
> > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look for possible
> > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > >
> > > Jay C.
> > >
> > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back to the
> house.
> It
> > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in the middle
> of a
> > > > busy intersection.
> > > >
> > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does sound a little
> > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like it is free
> wheeling
> > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess that could
> be
> > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert on this
> particular
> > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check first?
> > > >
> > > > Jay C.
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > install the new belt and necessary components then check the compression
> on
> > all cyclinders.
> >

 

PostScript.

I forgot to add that 250,000 miles is a lot...do what you can now on
the head with that many miles on the car...at least you won't have to
worry about head problems for a long while...it'll probably be
something else!

John D.




"Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message news:<llATa.114868$wk6.30051@rwcrnsc52.ops.asp.att .net>...
> Thanks,
>
> I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I want to do a
> valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car has nearly
> 1/4 million miles on it.
>
> Jay
>
>
> "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote in
> message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > "Jay C." wrote:
> >
> > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the car (in a
> cooler
> > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing several teeth in
> one
> > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > >
> > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow stop at a
> traffic
> > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and she couldn't
> > > restart it.
> > >
> > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to do any
> damage).
> > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I tried to restart
> it.
> > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > >
> > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look for possible
> > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > >
> > > Jay C.
> > >
> > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back to the
> house.
> It
> > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in the middle
> of a
> > > > busy intersection.
> > > >
> > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does sound a little
> > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like it is free
> wheeling
> > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess that could
> be
> > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert on this
> particular
> > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check first?
> > > >
> > > > Jay C.
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> > install the new belt and necessary components then check the compression
> on
> > all cyclinders.
> >

 

Umm. Is the pulley-to-crankshaft bolt a left or right handed? It is so
friggin tight that I might have go to Pep Boys and buy one of there
specialty PowerBuilt tools to help remove it. I borrowed an industrial
strength electric impact driver but have been assuming the the bolt is right
handed.

Some of the other suggestions on the Net were to use the starter in short
bursts to help break loose the bolt. I don't like the idea but their setup
suggests that the bolt is a left handed one. The crank rotates ccw so if a
breaker bar were anchored in any location, the starter action would tend to
tighten the bolt if it were a right hand thead.

Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or lefty-loosey?

Thanks,

Jay C.



"Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote in
message news:3F1EF58E.4CC3810A@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> "Jay C." wrote:
>
> > Yeah, you're right. I will probably leave things alone if it is
possible.
> >
> > The biggest problem I am having right now is trying to get the drive
belt
> > pulley-crank bolt loose. I can't take the bottom timing belt cover off
to
> > finish the R & R of the timing belt until I do.
> >
> > Hopefully I can round up an impact driver. :-(
> >
> > Jay C.
> >
> > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote
in
> > message news:3F1EE3A2.758C7D28@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I want
to do
> > a
> > > > valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car has
> > nearly
> > > > 1/4 million miles on it.
> > > >
> > > > Jay
> > > >
> > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
wrote
> > in
> > > > message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the car
(in a
> > > > cooler
> > > > > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing several
teeth
> > in
> > > > one
> > > > > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow stop at
a
> > > > traffic
> > > > > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and she
> > couldn't
> > > > > > restart it.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to do
any
> > > > damage).
> > > > > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I tried to
> > restart
> > > > it.
> > > > > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look for
> > possible
> > > > > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back to
the
> > > > house.
> > > > > > It
> > > > > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in the
> > middle
> > > > of a
> > > > > > > busy intersection.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does sound a
> > little
> > > > > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like it is
> > free
> > > > > > wheeling
> > > > > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess
that
> > could
> > > > be
> > > > > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert on
this
> > > > > > particular
> > > > > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check
first?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > install the new belt and necessary components then check the
> > compression
> > > > on
> > > > > all cyclinders.
> > > > >
> > >
> > > you may find if you rebuild the head, the lower end of the engine may
get
> > > stressed more with the additional compression and quickly fail. Ive
seen
> > this
> > > happen on several vehichles with many miles on the odo, with a new
/fresh
> > > cyclinder head.
> > >
> > > should you decide to do the head work, its not much more work to slap
new
> > > piston rings and rod bearings in the thing.
> > > all assuming your capable of the task.
> > >
>
> I had incredible difficulty removing mine as well as others, The impact
wrench
> with a short 15ft of hose and 160 psi finally broke the darn thing loose
after
> snapping 4 sockets, and 1 extension. try to use no extensions and a good
> impact socket, it makes all the difference.
>
> you will most likely have to anchor the flywheel or flexplate to the
> transmission using some metal strapping to keep the engine from turing
over.
> someone on the web has a picture of the "flywheel anchor" on the web.
> good luck
>

 

Umm. Is the pulley-to-crankshaft bolt a left or right handed? It is so
friggin tight that I might have go to Pep Boys and buy one of there
specialty PowerBuilt tools to help remove it. I borrowed an industrial
strength electric impact driver but have been assuming the the bolt is right
handed.

Some of the other suggestions on the Net were to use the starter in short
bursts to help break loose the bolt. I don't like the idea but their setup
suggests that the bolt is a left handed one. The crank rotates ccw so if a
breaker bar were anchored in any location, the starter action would tend to
tighten the bolt if it were a right hand thead.

Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or lefty-loosey?

Thanks,

Jay C.



"Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote in
message news:3F1EF58E.4CC3810A@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> "Jay C." wrote:
>
> > Yeah, you're right. I will probably leave things alone if it is
possible.
> >
> > The biggest problem I am having right now is trying to get the drive
belt
> > pulley-crank bolt loose. I can't take the bottom timing belt cover off
to
> > finish the R & R of the timing belt until I do.
> >
> > Hopefully I can round up an impact driver. :-(
> >
> > Jay C.
> >
> > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com> wrote
in
> > message news:3F1EE3A2.758C7D28@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > I am in the process of doing the deal. I have to decide if I want
to do
> > a
> > > > valve and head cleaning job while I am this far along. The car has
> > nearly
> > > > 1/4 million miles on it.
> > > >
> > > > Jay
> > > >
> > > > "Mitchell A. Bogh; bems=137185" <mab2728@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com>
wrote
> > in
> > > > message news:3F1ECADD.88D6EE12@eeppf001.ca.boeing.com...
> > > > > "Jay C." wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > I spent a little more time this morning investigating the car
(in a
> > > > cooler
> > > > > > garage). I can now see that the timing belt is missing several
teeth
> > in
> > > > one
> > > > > > place as it loops over the top of the cam pulley.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Yesterday my daughter said that she was coming to a slow stop at
a
> > > > traffic
> > > > > > light and the next thing she knew, the car had stalled and she
> > couldn't
> > > > > > restart it.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Perhaps the belt skipped position (hopefully not enough to do
any
> > > > damage).
> > > > > > Now I think I can explain how the engine sounded when I tried to
> > restart
> > > > it.
> > > > > > The timing sounded like it was off.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > I will be changing the belt starting today. How do I look for
> > possible
> > > > > > damage to valves and pistons without pulling the head?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > "Jay" <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> > > > > > news:nriTa.119388$N7.16718@sccrnsc03...
> > > > > > > I just got back from towing my daughter's 91 Civic DX back to
the
> > > > house.
> > > > > > It
> > > > > > > is 103 degrees in Salt Lake City today and the car quit in the
> > middle
> > > > of a
> > > > > > > busy intersection.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > The engine turns over and cranks just fine but it does sound a
> > little
> > > > > > > different while cranking. It sounds a little more like it is
> > free
> > > > > > wheeling
> > > > > > > (possibly) rather than turning under compression. I guess
that
> > could
> > > > be
> > > > > > > because of a couple of things....but not being an expert on
this
> > > > > > particular
> > > > > > > model I could sure use some advice. Help! What to check
first?
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > > Jay C.
> > > > > > >
> > > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > install the new belt and necessary components then check the
> > compression
> > > > on
> > > > > all cyclinders.
> > > > >
> > >
> > > you may find if you rebuild the head, the lower end of the engine may
get
> > > stressed more with the additional compression and quickly fail. Ive
seen
> > this
> > > happen on several vehichles with many miles on the odo, with a new
/fresh
> > > cyclinder head.
> > >
> > > should you decide to do the head work, its not much more work to slap
new
> > > piston rings and rod bearings in the thing.
> > > all assuming your capable of the task.
> > >
>
> I had incredible difficulty removing mine as well as others, The impact
wrench
> with a short 15ft of hose and 160 psi finally broke the darn thing loose
after
> snapping 4 sockets, and 1 extension. try to use no extensions and a good
> impact socket, it makes all the difference.
>
> you will most likely have to anchor the flywheel or flexplate to the
> transmission using some metal strapping to keep the engine from turing
over.
> someone on the web has a picture of the "flywheel anchor" on the web.
> good luck
>

 

"Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...

..
>
> Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or lefty-loosey?

Yes.

 

"Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...

..
>
> Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or lefty-loosey?

Yes.

 

Okay, it looks like I will have to make a special tool out of an old bed
rail or some other angle iron which spans the drive belt pulley face and has
a couple of holes for bolts to go through the pulley (gently tightened).
Four feet long should do it. I'll need to allow another hole for the
socket/short breaker bar which will be anchored on the floor or engine
compartment. Easy does it, so I don't bend the pulley when I use the four
foot angle iron for my new lever/wrench.

The alternative of pulling off the starter and wedging a large screw driver
into the flywheel seems like too much work.

....pray for me ;-)

Jay



"Stephen Bigelow" <sbigelowXXX@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:x6VTa.67453$zwL.13660@news04.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
>
> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
>
> .
> >
> > Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
lefty-loosey?
>
> Yes.
>
>

 

Okay, it looks like I will have to make a special tool out of an old bed
rail or some other angle iron which spans the drive belt pulley face and has
a couple of holes for bolts to go through the pulley (gently tightened).
Four feet long should do it. I'll need to allow another hole for the
socket/short breaker bar which will be anchored on the floor or engine
compartment. Easy does it, so I don't bend the pulley when I use the four
foot angle iron for my new lever/wrench.

The alternative of pulling off the starter and wedging a large screw driver
into the flywheel seems like too much work.

....pray for me ;-)

Jay



"Stephen Bigelow" <sbigelowXXX@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:x6VTa.67453$zwL.13660@news04.bloor.is.net.cab le.rogers.com...
>
> "Jay C." <jay@jaycatmull.com> wrote in message
> news:dsUTa.120627$GL4.32487@rwcrnsc53...
>
> .
> >
> > Could someone make this clear for me? Is it righty-tighty or
lefty-loosey?
>
> Yes.
>
>