jim beam wrote:


> 1999 or not, that doesn't change the physics. think of it like this:
> solid ice can rough you up pretty badly. water offers almost no
> lubrication worth worrying about. but ice slurry, where the smaller
> particles are free to slide among themselves, can be a fantastic remover
> of friction.

I think you need to re-think this one.
A 'slurry' of metal particles is going to lubricate better than clean
oil?? LOL!
I don't think you understand how a hydrodynamic bearing works, nor do
you appreciate how vanishingly thin the oil film is under load.

 

On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:11:31 -0800, JRStern <JRStern@foobar.invalid>
wrote:

>On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 19:41:07 -0600, "Guy" <void@void.com> wrote:
>
>>I got a new 2010 CR-V and wife asked me how to break it in properly.
>>What is the proper way?
>>
>>I don't care what the manual says. What do you guys feel is the best
>>mileage to do the first oil change? I normally change my oil and
>>filter around 3500 miles on my other cars with no synthetic.
>
>Follow the manual and the minder.
>
>They say no restrictions on driving from day one, and you'll probably
>go about a normal oil change distance, about 6k miles depending on
>your driving habits, before the minder says hello.
>
>That's what Honda wants to honor the warranty, seems good to me.
>
>Engineering, materials, manufacturing are all really, really different
>now than thirty years ago, I haven't heard anyone accusing the minder
>of being too conservative about oil changes, maybe a little the other
>way in fact, recommending changes a little sooner than really needed.
>Plus, you might get paranoid when it says 15% left and change it then,
>when you really can run it to zero, usually another 1,000 miles. Not
>like the car grinds to a halt at that point!
>
>J.
>
>

Thanks JR, I gotcha. That sounds reasonable. I do intend to read
the manual regardless but I really wanted to know how others drove
their newer cars especially for breakin. I imagine my CR-V tho not
an EX will seem like a EX compared to my Accord LX of 7 years ago so
I'll have to get used to the extra bells and whistles. Anyway,
thanks for the straight advice and without the accusations.

 

On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:13:02 -0800, jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote:

>On 01/02/2010 11:04 AM, Guy wrote:
>> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 10:09:49 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>
>>> On 01/02/2010 09:27 AM, Guy wrote:
>>>> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 08:11:21 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 01/01/2010 09:35 PM, Guy wrote:
>>>>>> On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 18:36:52 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On 01/01/2010 06:23 PM, Guy wrote:
>>>>>>>> On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 17:14:37 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> On 01/01/2010 04:54 PM, JRE wrote:
>>>>>>>>>> Tegger wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote in
>>>>>>>>>>> news:rLydnU8pArz__KPWnZ2dnUVZ_hmdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>>>>>>>>>>> On 01/01/2010 12:38 PM, Joe wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> It makes sense to be informed. Talk to the technician doing the work
>>>>>>>>>>>>> before and after. Make sure they're not cutting corners...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> while the dealer is the safest long term bet, i have to say, they're
>>>>>>>>>>>> not infallible.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> Ain't that the truth.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> My own dealer got three years out of the original oil pan. Then they
>>>>>>>>>>> managed to strip the plug. The monkeys were severely overtightening
>>>>>>>>>>> the plug, probably by using a combo wrench and tightening it by
>>>>>>>>>>> hanging from it, as monkeys do.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> I'm still running with the replacement pan, sixteen years later. The
>>>>>>>>>>> plug is not stripped.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> The faithfully torqued (with a torque wrench, to spec, every time,
>>>>>>>>>> without exception, since the car was new) drain plug in my '91 Accord
>>>>>>>>>> stripped about a year and a half ago. Pretty annoying...and very
>>>>>>>>>> unusual. But that's why they make self-tapping replacements, I suppose.
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> (Note: I recently got a new torque wrench and checked it against the old
>>>>>>>>>> one. They're within a foot-pound of each other.)
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> [much to the delight of "crv guy" no doubt] i actually disregard factory
>>>>>>>>> oil pan plug torque. 45N.m is very high for something with a soft
>>>>>>>>> aluminum crush washer under it. i use ~30N.m and have never had a
>>>>>>>>> thread strip, nor a plug loosen or leak. replicate at your own risk.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thanks Jim for your honesty<smile>. At least we can agree here.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> so /you/ did the math too??? somehow, i find that hard to believe.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Wow, you admit the factory might be wrong but you can't.
>>>>>> I find that NOT hard to believe.
>>>>>
>>>>> "you admit the factory might be wrong but you can't"???
>>>>>
>>>>> on the basis that you're evidencing an english language "garbage out"
>>>>> problem, there must also be english language "garbage in" problem with
>>>>> you too. which explains everything!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for giving me the best word to describe what I think of your
>>>> opinion now... "garbage". People disagree but when some people carry
>>>> on the way you do, they have something wrong. Why not make yourself
>>>> happy and PLONK me so I don't have to see your "garbage" posts any
>>>> longer.
>>>
>>> i have a better solution: you stop flaunting your willful ignorance,
>>> then see what kind a reaction you get. think about it. if you can.
>>
>> Wow. Do you feel better when you talk like this?
>
>do you have /no/ logical thought capability???


Gosh you are so intellectual and I bet it shows to the rest. Go ahead
and reply so I can have something to laugh at today and I'll do my
best to let you have the last word. That way you can have a higher
opinion of yourself.

 

On 01/02/2010 11:36 AM, Greg wrote:
> jim beam wrote:
>
>
>> 1999 or not, that doesn't change the physics. think of it like this:
>> solid ice can rough you up pretty badly. water offers almost no
>> lubrication worth worrying about. but ice slurry, where the smaller
>> particles are free to slide among themselves, can be a fantastic
>> remover of friction.
>
> I think you need to re-think this one.
> A 'slurry' of metal particles is going to lubricate better than clean
> oil?? LOL!

the majority of particulate matter in oil is combustion product, not
metal. if /you/ have a slurry of metal particles in your oil, you have
a problem.


> I don't think you understand how a hydrodynamic bearing works, nor do
> you appreciate how vanishingly thin the oil film is under load.

you're contradicting yourself. hydrodynamic separation, by definition,
means there is sufficient thickness to keep the two solid surfaces
apart. if they're not separated, then it's not hydrodynamic.

 

On 01/02/2010 11:40 AM, Guy wrote:
> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:11:31 -0800, JRStern<JRStern@foobar.invalid>
> wrote:
>
>> On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 19:41:07 -0600, "Guy"<void@void.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I got a new 2010 CR-V and wife asked me how to break it in properly.
>>> What is the proper way?
>>>
>>> I don't care what the manual says. What do you guys feel is the best
>>> mileage to do the first oil change? I normally change my oil and
>>> filter around 3500 miles on my other cars with no synthetic.
>>
>> Follow the manual and the minder.
>>
>> They say no restrictions on driving from day one, and you'll probably
>> go about a normal oil change distance, about 6k miles depending on
>> your driving habits, before the minder says hello.
>>
>> That's what Honda wants to honor the warranty, seems good to me.
>>
>> Engineering, materials, manufacturing are all really, really different
>> now than thirty years ago, I haven't heard anyone accusing the minder
>> of being too conservative about oil changes, maybe a little the other
>> way in fact, recommending changes a little sooner than really needed.
>> Plus, you might get paranoid when it says 15% left and change it then,
>> when you really can run it to zero, usually another 1,000 miles. Not
>> like the car grinds to a halt at that point!
>>
>> J.
>>
>>
>
> Thanks JR, I gotcha. That sounds reasonable. I do intend to read
> the manual

you've been "intending" to read the manual for some time now guy.
contrasted with the time you've /actually/ spent here trying to justify
/not/ reading it of course. but we already know logic is not your strength.


> regardless but I really wanted to know how others drove
> their newer cars especially for breakin. I imagine my CR-V tho not
> an EX will seem like a EX compared to my Accord LX of 7 years ago so
> I'll have to get used to the extra bells and whistles. Anyway,
> thanks for the straight advice and without the accusations.

 

On 01/02/2010 11:46 AM, Guy wrote:
> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:13:02 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>
>> On 01/02/2010 11:04 AM, Guy wrote:
>>> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 10:09:49 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 01/02/2010 09:27 AM, Guy wrote:
>>>>> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 08:11:21 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On 01/01/2010 09:35 PM, Guy wrote:
>>>>>>> On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 18:36:52 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On 01/01/2010 06:23 PM, Guy wrote:
>>>>>>>>> On Fri, 01 Jan 2010 17:14:37 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> On 01/01/2010 04:54 PM, JRE wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>> Tegger wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>> jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote in
>>>>>>>>>>>> news:rLydnU8pArz__KPWnZ2dnUVZ_hmdnZ2d@speakeasy.ne t:
>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 01/01/2010 12:38 PM, Joe wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> It makes sense to be informed. Talk to the technician doing the work
>>>>>>>>>>>>>> before and after. Make sure they're not cutting corners...
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>> while the dealer is the safest long term bet, i have to say, they're
>>>>>>>>>>>>> not infallible.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> Ain't that the truth.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> My own dealer got three years out of the original oil pan. Then they
>>>>>>>>>>>> managed to strip the plug. The monkeys were severely overtightening
>>>>>>>>>>>> the plug, probably by using a combo wrench and tightening it by
>>>>>>>>>>>> hanging from it, as monkeys do.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>> I'm still running with the replacement pan, sixteen years later. The
>>>>>>>>>>>> plug is not stripped.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> The faithfully torqued (with a torque wrench, to spec, every time,
>>>>>>>>>>> without exception, since the car was new) drain plug in my '91 Accord
>>>>>>>>>>> stripped about a year and a half ago. Pretty annoying...and very
>>>>>>>>>>> unusual. But that's why they make self-tapping replacements, I suppose.
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>> (Note: I recently got a new torque wrench and checked it against the old
>>>>>>>>>>> one. They're within a foot-pound of each other.)
>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>> [much to the delight of "crv guy" no doubt] i actually disregard factory
>>>>>>>>>> oil pan plug torque. 45N.m is very high for something with a soft
>>>>>>>>>> aluminum crush washer under it. i use ~30N.m and have never had a
>>>>>>>>>> thread strip, nor a plug loosen or leak. replicate at your own risk.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Thanks Jim for your honesty<smile>. At least we can agree here.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> so /you/ did the math too??? somehow, i find that hard to believe.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Wow, you admit the factory might be wrong but you can't.
>>>>>>> I find that NOT hard to believe.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "you admit the factory might be wrong but you can't"???
>>>>>>
>>>>>> on the basis that you're evidencing an english language "garbage out"
>>>>>> problem, there must also be english language "garbage in" problem with
>>>>>> you too. which explains everything!
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for giving me the best word to describe what I think of your
>>>>> opinion now... "garbage". People disagree but when some people carry
>>>>> on the way you do, they have something wrong. Why not make yourself
>>>>> happy and PLONK me so I don't have to see your "garbage" posts any
>>>>> longer.
>>>>
>>>> i have a better solution: you stop flaunting your willful ignorance,
>>>> then see what kind a reaction you get. think about it. if you can.
>>>
>>> Wow. Do you feel better when you talk like this?
>>
>> do you have /no/ logical thought capability???
>
>
> Gosh you are so intellectual and I bet it shows to the rest. Go ahead
> and reply so I can have something to laugh at today and I'll do my
> best to let you have the last word. That way you can have a higher
> opinion of yourself.

you - just - don't - get - it.

 

On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:55:01 -0800, jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote:

>On 01/02/2010 11:40 AM, Guy wrote:
>> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:11:31 -0800, JRStern<JRStern@foobar.invalid>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 19:41:07 -0600, "Guy"<void@void.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I got a new 2010 CR-V and wife asked me how to break it in properly.
>>>> What is the proper way?
>>>>
>>>> I don't care what the manual says. What do you guys feel is the best
>>>> mileage to do the first oil change? I normally change my oil and
>>>> filter around 3500 miles on my other cars with no synthetic.
>>>
>>> Follow the manual and the minder.
>>>
>>> They say no restrictions on driving from day one, and you'll probably
>>> go about a normal oil change distance, about 6k miles depending on
>>> your driving habits, before the minder says hello.
>>>
>>> That's what Honda wants to honor the warranty, seems good to me.
>>>
>>> Engineering, materials, manufacturing are all really, really different
>>> now than thirty years ago, I haven't heard anyone accusing the minder
>>> of being too conservative about oil changes, maybe a little the other
>>> way in fact, recommending changes a little sooner than really needed.
>>> Plus, you might get paranoid when it says 15% left and change it then,
>>> when you really can run it to zero, usually another 1,000 miles. Not
>>> like the car grinds to a halt at that point!
>>>
>>> J.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Thanks JR, I gotcha. That sounds reasonable. I do intend to read
>> the manual
>
>you've been "intending" to read the manual for some time now guy.
>contrasted with the time you've /actually/ spent here trying to justify
>/not/ reading it of course. but we already know logic is not your strength.
>
>

Maybe I can't read the manual because I stuck inside sick. But I
guess that doesn't compute in your disillusional mind. Go ahead and
impress everyone else with your wisdom now !

 

On 1/2/2010 2:06 PM, Guy wrote:
>
> You're right. Still hope he PLONKS me first.

LOL!

 

On 1/2/2010 2:29 PM, pws wrote:
>
> That is what I did, but I still see his postings when other people reply
> to him.
> It cuts the number down, however, as nobody can respond to all of his
> postings. Most people have this thing called a life.

That's a small price to pay for peace and quiet and the enviable "No
Jim Zone". :^)

 

On 01/02/2010 12:18 PM, Guy wrote:
> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:55:01 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>
>> On 01/02/2010 11:40 AM, Guy wrote:
>>> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:11:31 -0800, JRStern<JRStern@foobar.invalid>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 19:41:07 -0600, "Guy"<void@void.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I got a new 2010 CR-V and wife asked me how to break it in properly.
>>>>> What is the proper way?
>>>>>
>>>>> I don't care what the manual says. What do you guys feel is the best
>>>>> mileage to do the first oil change? I normally change my oil and
>>>>> filter around 3500 miles on my other cars with no synthetic.
>>>>
>>>> Follow the manual and the minder.
>>>>
>>>> They say no restrictions on driving from day one, and you'll probably
>>>> go about a normal oil change distance, about 6k miles depending on
>>>> your driving habits, before the minder says hello.
>>>>
>>>> That's what Honda wants to honor the warranty, seems good to me.
>>>>
>>>> Engineering, materials, manufacturing are all really, really different
>>>> now than thirty years ago, I haven't heard anyone accusing the minder
>>>> of being too conservative about oil changes, maybe a little the other
>>>> way in fact, recommending changes a little sooner than really needed.
>>>> Plus, you might get paranoid when it says 15% left and change it then,
>>>> when you really can run it to zero, usually another 1,000 miles. Not
>>>> like the car grinds to a halt at that point!
>>>>
>>>> J.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks JR, I gotcha. That sounds reasonable. I do intend to read
>>> the manual
>>
>> you've been "intending" to read the manual for some time now guy.
>> contrasted with the time you've /actually/ spent here trying to justify
>> /not/ reading it of course. but we already know logic is not your strength.
>>
>>
>
> Maybe I can't read the manual because I stuck inside sick.

so you're not here to learn anything - you're just here to "chat". i
should have realized.


> But I
> guess that doesn't compute in your disillusional mind. Go ahead and
> impress everyone else with your wisdom now !

idiot.

 

On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 12:33:36 -0800, jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote:

>On 01/02/2010 12:18 PM, Guy wrote:
>> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:55:01 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>
>>> On 01/02/2010 11:40 AM, Guy wrote:
>>>> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:11:31 -0800, JRStern<JRStern@foobar.invalid>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 19:41:07 -0600, "Guy"<void@void.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I got a new 2010 CR-V and wife asked me how to break it in properly.
>>>>>> What is the proper way?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I don't care what the manual says. What do you guys feel is the best
>>>>>> mileage to do the first oil change? I normally change my oil and
>>>>>> filter around 3500 miles on my other cars with no synthetic.
>>>>>
>>>>> Follow the manual and the minder.
>>>>>
>>>>> They say no restrictions on driving from day one, and you'll probably
>>>>> go about a normal oil change distance, about 6k miles depending on
>>>>> your driving habits, before the minder says hello.
>>>>>
>>>>> That's what Honda wants to honor the warranty, seems good to me.
>>>>>
>>>>> Engineering, materials, manufacturing are all really, really different
>>>>> now than thirty years ago, I haven't heard anyone accusing the minder
>>>>> of being too conservative about oil changes, maybe a little the other
>>>>> way in fact, recommending changes a little sooner than really needed.
>>>>> Plus, you might get paranoid when it says 15% left and change it then,
>>>>> when you really can run it to zero, usually another 1,000 miles. Not
>>>>> like the car grinds to a halt at that point!
>>>>>
>>>>> J.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thanks JR, I gotcha. That sounds reasonable. I do intend to read
>>>> the manual
>>>
>>> you've been "intending" to read the manual for some time now guy.
>>> contrasted with the time you've /actually/ spent here trying to justify
>>> /not/ reading it of course. but we already know logic is not your strength.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Maybe I can't read the manual because I stuck inside sick.
>
>so you're not here to learn anything - you're just here to "chat". i
>should have realized.
>
>
>> But I
>> guess that doesn't compute in your disillusional mind. Go ahead and
>> impress everyone else with your wisdom now !
>
>idiot.

Impressive ...

 

On 01/02/2010 12:44 PM, Guy wrote:
> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 12:33:36 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>
>> On 01/02/2010 12:18 PM, Guy wrote:
>>> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:55:01 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>> On 01/02/2010 11:40 AM, Guy wrote:
>>>>> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:11:31 -0800, JRStern<JRStern@foobar.invalid>
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 19:41:07 -0600, "Guy"<void@void.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I got a new 2010 CR-V and wife asked me how to break it in properly.
>>>>>>> What is the proper way?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I don't care what the manual says. What do you guys feel is the best
>>>>>>> mileage to do the first oil change? I normally change my oil and
>>>>>>> filter around 3500 miles on my other cars with no synthetic.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Follow the manual and the minder.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> They say no restrictions on driving from day one, and you'll probably
>>>>>> go about a normal oil change distance, about 6k miles depending on
>>>>>> your driving habits, before the minder says hello.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> That's what Honda wants to honor the warranty, seems good to me.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Engineering, materials, manufacturing are all really, really different
>>>>>> now than thirty years ago, I haven't heard anyone accusing the minder
>>>>>> of being too conservative about oil changes, maybe a little the other
>>>>>> way in fact, recommending changes a little sooner than really needed.
>>>>>> Plus, you might get paranoid when it says 15% left and change it then,
>>>>>> when you really can run it to zero, usually another 1,000 miles. Not
>>>>>> like the car grinds to a halt at that point!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> J.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks JR, I gotcha. That sounds reasonable. I do intend to read
>>>>> the manual
>>>>
>>>> you've been "intending" to read the manual for some time now guy.
>>>> contrasted with the time you've /actually/ spent here trying to justify
>>>> /not/ reading it of course. but we already know logic is not your strength.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Maybe I can't read the manual because I stuck inside sick.
>>
>> so you're not here to learn anything - you're just here to "chat". i
>> should have realized.
>>
>>
>>> But I
>>> guess that doesn't compute in your disillusional mind. Go ahead and
>>> impress everyone else with your wisdom now !
>>
>> idiot.
>
> Impressive ...

what would be impressive is you bothering to pay attention to this
http://www.faqs.org/faqs/killfile-faq/

but that wouldn't be boredom-relieving "chat" - would it.

 

jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote in
news:15CdnfSA16hZ7aLWnZ2dnUVZ_tIAAAAA@speakeasy.ne t:

> On 01/02/2010 06:57 AM, Tegger wrote:
>> jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote in news:Kf-

>
> in my opinion, 45 N.m is over-tightening. two reasons:
>
> 1. the oil pan is a relatively soft material - it has to be to be
> formed out of a single piece of steel like that. torque near yield,
> plus thermal cycling loads - too close for my comfort.



The threads that form the drain plug hole are not made of the same piece of
steel as the pan. The drain hole threads are punched into a small rectangle
of much thicker metal that's spot-welded to the inside of the pan.

Check your oil pan (or find a loose engine in a wrecking yard and pull the
pan off that). On either side of the drain hole, you'll find two small spot
welds. These are the welds that hold the rectangle of metal in place.

When you look at that rectangle from the inside of the pan, you can plainly
see that it's made of much thicker steel than the pan itself. Honda (or its
supplier) punches the hole in the rectangle, threads it, the welds it to
the pan.

The threaded rectangle on my original pan and the one on the new pan
(installed 1994) were definitely of different thicknesses, with the new one
being thicker. I believe Honda has changed the pans since 1991, and that's
why we don't hear of stripped drain plugs nearly as often as we used to ten
years ago.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote in news:Y5ednS-
zJe1JPqLWnZ2dnUVZ_hGdnZ2d@speakeasy.net:

> On 01/02/2010 11:36 AM, Greg wrote:
>> jim beam wrote:
>>
>>
>>> 1999 or not, that doesn't change the physics. think of it like this:
>>> solid ice can rough you up pretty badly. water offers almost no
>>> lubrication worth worrying about. but ice slurry, where the smaller
>>> particles are free to slide among themselves, can be a fantastic
>>> remover of friction.
>>
>> I think you need to re-think this one.
>> A 'slurry' of metal particles is going to lubricate better than clean
>> oil?? LOL!
>
> the majority of particulate matter in oil is combustion product, not
> metal. if /you/ have a slurry of metal particles in your oil, you have
> a problem.




True, and much of that will be soot (about 1 micron in size).



>
>
>> I don't think you understand how a hydrodynamic bearing works, nor do
>> you appreciate how vanishingly thin the oil film is under load.
>
> you're contradicting yourself. hydrodynamic separation, by definition,
> means there is sufficient thickness to keep the two solid surfaces
> apart. if they're not separated, then it's not hydrodynamic.
>



The integrity of the thin part of the "oil wedge" is the key to lubricant
effectiveness in protecting those hydrodynamic bearings.

The thin part of the wedge is thin indeed, and contaminant particles must
be small enough that they are smaller than the wedge, otherwise abrasion
will occur.

Consider that crankshaft main-bearing-to-journal clearance is on the order
of 25-50 microns. The thickness of the thin part of the wedge will be less
than that. I've read that a common automotive oil filter efficiency is
about 30 microns, so you haven't got much there before wear occurs in the
presence of metallic particles.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 12:56:43 -0800, jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote:

>On 01/02/2010 12:44 PM, Guy wrote:
>> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 12:33:36 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>
>>> On 01/02/2010 12:18 PM, Guy wrote:
>>>> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:55:01 -0800, jim beam<me@privacy.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 01/02/2010 11:40 AM, Guy wrote:
>>>>>> On Sat, 02 Jan 2010 11:11:31 -0800, JRStern<JRStern@foobar.invalid>
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Thu, 31 Dec 2009 19:41:07 -0600, "Guy"<void@void.com> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I got a new 2010 CR-V and wife asked me how to break it in properly.
>>>>>>>> What is the proper way?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I don't care what the manual says. What do you guys feel is the best
>>>>>>>> mileage to do the first oil change? I normally change my oil and
>>>>>>>> filter around 3500 miles on my other cars with no synthetic.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Follow the manual and the minder.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> They say no restrictions on driving from day one, and you'll probably
>>>>>>> go about a normal oil change distance, about 6k miles depending on
>>>>>>> your driving habits, before the minder says hello.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> That's what Honda wants to honor the warranty, seems good to me.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Engineering, materials, manufacturing are all really, really different
>>>>>>> now than thirty years ago, I haven't heard anyone accusing the minder
>>>>>>> of being too conservative about oil changes, maybe a little the other
>>>>>>> way in fact, recommending changes a little sooner than really needed.
>>>>>>> Plus, you might get paranoid when it says 15% left and change it then,
>>>>>>> when you really can run it to zero, usually another 1,000 miles. Not
>>>>>>> like the car grinds to a halt at that point!
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> J.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks JR, I gotcha. That sounds reasonable. I do intend to read
>>>>>> the manual
>>>>>
>>>>> you've been "intending" to read the manual for some time now guy.
>>>>> contrasted with the time you've /actually/ spent here trying to justify
>>>>> /not/ reading it of course. but we already know logic is not your strength.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Maybe I can't read the manual because I stuck inside sick.
>>>
>>> so you're not here to learn anything - you're just here to "chat". i
>>> should have realized.
>>>
>>>
>>>> But I
>>>> guess that doesn't compute in your disillusional mind. Go ahead and
>>>> impress everyone else with your wisdom now !
>>>
>>> idiot.
>>
>> Impressive ...
>
>what would be impressive is you bothering to pay attention to this
>http://www.faqs.org/faqs/killfile-faq/
>
>but that wouldn't be boredom-relieving "chat" - would it.


Usually what I'm about to say uses the word "screws" but in your case
considering your last name and your posts in this thread, there is no
doubt to us normal people you are missing or have some loose bolts.