rickylowary@gmail.com wrote in news:5b76d2ff-d886-4157-a916-
50b2ee8cccbf@g1g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:

> yea, all the rings were put on with the letter facing up and turned so
> it was not on the compression side of the piston or whatever the
> manual called it. we checked every ring by pushing inside the chamber
> with the piston and using a feeler gauge. all were well within the
> new limits. it's just completely throwing me off that it only occurs
> on the highway. i think a may do a leak down test either tomorrow or
> friday to see if i can pin point it further.
>
>
> I would definitely be willing to throw in a vtech if i didn't have to
> get the manifolds from the donor car. i just can't spend all that
> money for those right now.
>
> hopefully this leak down will give me a better idea of whats going on.




I suspect the problem is bore/ring/piston wear caused by the abrasive
particles from the sandpaper you used to clean the block surface. In other
words, the engine is now permanently damaged. For your sake, I hope I'm
wrong.

You're burning oil only on the highway now, but you'll be puffing
everywhere before long.



--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

rickylowary@gmail.com wrote in news:5b76d2ff-d886-4157-a916-
50b2ee8cccbf@g1g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:

> yea, all the rings were put on with the letter facing up and turned so
> it was not on the compression side of the piston or whatever the
> manual called it.



Did you put all the ring gaps so they were in line with each other?


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

no the manual had the gaps at arranged at different points around the
piston

i don't believe any particles could have made it into the cylinder
because they were taped off until i was finished. when the oil pan
was off, my crankshaft looked amazing and all looked well under there.

i could really find out how fast i am getting rid of oil on the
highway if i had remembered to throw the new oil pressure switch on
there while i had the engine out. now i just have to stop every two
hours and do a check.

i hope you're wrong as well about the problem being in the block. i
guess we will find out in the next few days!

 

Tegger wrote:

> rickylowary@gmail.com wrote in news:5b76d2ff-d886-4157-a916-
> 50b2ee8cccbf@g1g2000yqh.googlegroups.com:
>
>
>>yea, all the rings were put on with the letter facing up and turned so
>>it was not on the compression side of the piston or whatever the
>>manual called it. we checked every ring by pushing inside the chamber
>>with the piston and using a feeler gauge. all were well within the
>>new limits. it's just completely throwing me off that it only occurs
>>on the highway. i think a may do a leak down test either tomorrow or
>>friday to see if i can pin point it further.
>>
>>
>>I would definitely be willing to throw in a vtech if i didn't have to
>>get the manifolds from the donor car. i just can't spend all that
>>money for those right now.
>>
>>hopefully this leak down will give me a better idea of whats going on.
>
>
>
>
>
> I suspect the problem is bore/ring/piston wear caused by the abrasive
> particles from the sandpaper you used to clean the block surface. In other
> words, the engine is now permanently damaged. For your sake, I hope I'm
> wrong.
>
> You're burning oil only on the highway now, but you'll be puffing
> everywhere before long.
>


I could also be a ventilation issue/emmissions etc.

JT

 

rickylowary@gmail.com wrote:
> i've come up with a slightly expensive, but temporary solution. being
> that the compression wasn't bad and i only burn oil at high rpm's on
> the highway..i can only think that the exhaust valve may be getting
> stuck open or the seal may be leaking. called around today and i can
> get a head from a local junkyard for $75 and i could send it off to a
> place that the honda dealership recommended for a complete rebuild for
> $250.
>
> I kept digging to find another d15b7 engine, but couldn't find one
> without going to a vtech and having to change my exhaust & intake
> manifolds..
>
> thoughts on this?

complete waste of money. valves aren't sticking or they'd either be
sticking open - measurable as zero compression - or making a clattering
noise you could hear in rio. and valves themselves don't burn oil.
even with no seals, oil consumption is minor.

don't need to change manifolds afaik. it's better if you do for
performance, but i don't believe it's a prerequisite for bolt-on.

 

rickylowary@gmail.com wrote:
> yea, all the rings were put on with the letter facing up and turned so
> it was not on the compression side of the piston or whatever the
> manual called it. we checked every ring by pushing inside the chamber
> with the piston and using a feeler gauge. all were well within the
> new limits. it's just completely throwing me off that it only occurs
> on the highway. i think a may do a leak down test either tomorrow or
> friday to see if i can pin point it further.
>
>
> I would definitely be willing to throw in a vtech if i didn't have to
> get the manifolds from the donor car. i just can't spend all that
> money for those right now.
>
> hopefully this leak down will give me a better idea of whats going on.
>
> -Ricky
>

have you done the simple stuff like check the pcv valve?

 

rickylowary@gmail.com wrote:
> no the manual had the gaps at arranged at different points around the
> piston
>
> i don't believe any particles could have made it into the cylinder
> because they were taped off until i was finished.

you're laboring under a badly wrong impression on that. guaranteed.


> when the oil pan
> was off, my crankshaft looked amazing and all looked well under there.

shouldn't be surprising unless you're running without air filter, have a
blown head gasket or use truly crappy oil and never change it.


>
> i could really find out how fast i am getting rid of oil on the
> highway if i had remembered to throw the new oil pressure switch on
> there while i had the engine out. now i just have to stop every two
> hours and do a check.
>
> i hope you're wrong as well about the problem being in the block. i
> guess we will find out in the next few days!
>

dude, honestly, don't dick about with repair. while technically
possible, and i can see you geeking out on this, it's simply not cost
effective. this is not a rare engine for which no replacements are
available. and it's extremely rare for any repair to match the quality
of an originally assembled engine. simply replace for a few hundred
bucks, buy low mileage jdm, and be done. imo, buying a used engine from
a domestic junkyard is a waste of time because it'll be high mileage and
not appreciably cheaper.

go zc. i'll slap the nasal mucus out of your existing motor, and the
vtec come to that. cheapo bolt-in.

 

good call, haven't thought to check the pcv valve yet. will check
that in the a.m.

kudos to the first one that can help me find a zc engine that can bolt
up to an auto tranny ( or at least help me figure out how to set it in
an auto tranny)

i'm looking at a lot of jdm sites that are out of d15b7's and d16z6's
(zc?)

 

rickylowary@gmail.com wrote:
> good call, haven't thought to check the pcv valve yet. will check
> that in the a.m.
>
> kudos to the first one that can help me find a zc engine that can bolt
> up to an auto tranny ( or at least help me figure out how to set it in
> an auto tranny)

check the bolt pattern, but i've seen it done. as long as the torque
plate goes on, the transmission goes on. compare d16a6 with your d15b7
output bolt counts. do you have the honda workshop manual for your
vehicle? i have the 88-91 so we can compare notes.


>
> i'm looking at a lot of jdm sites that are out of d15b7's and d16z6's
> (zc?)
>

so call anyway. if worst comes the worst, get one from a domestic
junkyard. there are plenty out there.

 

ever heard of these guys?

http://www.tigerautoparts.com/autopa...y=33&query=257


i would love to get a jdm if i can. most ones in the lot around here
are around 125k. it would be like starting over with a clean slate!

 

rickylowary@gmail.com wrote:
> ever heard of these guys?
>
> http://www.tigerautoparts.com/autopa...y=33&query=257
>
>
> i would love to get a jdm if i can. most ones in the lot around here
> are around 125k. it would be like starting over with a clean slate!
>

don't have direct experience of suppliers - my honda engines are
original. [but i've seen a lot of them in junkyards, especially zc's
here in ca. because they can't be smogged in this state, people smog
the car, swap the motors, run them for two years until the smog expires,
then junk them. they seem to work great, and are generally in much
better condition than the domestics because of low mileage.] but there
have been a number of people on this group doing the jdm engine thing so
google for their contributions.

 

scratch that. they managed to be in the better business bureau books
in canada a being sorry. checked the pcv valve today, checked out ok.


think i found an engine about 4 hours away from me. waiting to hear
back on mileage and if there were any previous problems with it. not
sure why its taken apart tho.

take a look...http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/pts/1202639282.html

 

rickylowary@gmail.com wrote:
> scratch that. they managed to be in the better business bureau books
> in canada a being sorry. checked the pcv valve today, checked out ok.
>
>
> think i found an engine about 4 hours away from me. waiting to hear
> back on mileage and if there were any previous problems with it. not
> sure why its taken apart tho.
>
> take a look...http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/pts/1202639282.html

i wouldn't touch that. the whole point of going jdm is that you get an
engine that hasn't been f'ed about. one that's been disassembled, you
don't have a clue. for instance, you're supposed to reassemble head
bolts in the same location from which they came...

again, i wouldn't touch it.