need more input on brake problem
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
need more input on brake problem
History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
it. Ideas?
Austin
I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
it. Ideas?
Austin
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
Sounds to me as you have two problems.
1) car pulls in one direction
Answer: After rotating the tries you noticed the pull in the opposite
direction, indicating that the tire needs to be checked for air pressure
loss or even rebalanced. If this does not help check the rims for any
major scratches this can cause the tire to be unbalanced.
2) braking vibration,
Answer: Try the above first if this does not fix your problem try
checking the brake pads. Note if they are shiny upon inspection it may
be a good idea to replace them.
Give that a shot and keep me posted on what happens.
Jason
Austin Kupper wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
1) car pulls in one direction
Answer: After rotating the tries you noticed the pull in the opposite
direction, indicating that the tire needs to be checked for air pressure
loss or even rebalanced. If this does not help check the rims for any
major scratches this can cause the tire to be unbalanced.
2) braking vibration,
Answer: Try the above first if this does not fix your problem try
checking the brake pads. Note if they are shiny upon inspection it may
be a good idea to replace them.
Give that a shot and keep me posted on what happens.
Jason
Austin Kupper wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
Sounds to me as you have two problems.
1) car pulls in one direction
Answer: After rotating the tries you noticed the pull in the opposite
direction, indicating that the tire needs to be checked for air pressure
loss or even rebalanced. If this does not help check the rims for any
major scratches this can cause the tire to be unbalanced.
2) braking vibration,
Answer: Try the above first if this does not fix your problem try
checking the brake pads. Note if they are shiny upon inspection it may
be a good idea to replace them.
Give that a shot and keep me posted on what happens.
Jason
Austin Kupper wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
1) car pulls in one direction
Answer: After rotating the tries you noticed the pull in the opposite
direction, indicating that the tire needs to be checked for air pressure
loss or even rebalanced. If this does not help check the rims for any
major scratches this can cause the tire to be unbalanced.
2) braking vibration,
Answer: Try the above first if this does not fix your problem try
checking the brake pads. Note if they are shiny upon inspection it may
be a good idea to replace them.
Give that a shot and keep me posted on what happens.
Jason
Austin Kupper wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
#4
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
Sounds to me as you have two problems.
1) car pulls in one direction
Answer: After rotating the tries you noticed the pull in the opposite
direction, indicating that the tire needs to be checked for air pressure
loss or even rebalanced. If this does not help check the rims for any
major scratches this can cause the tire to be unbalanced.
2) braking vibration,
Answer: Try the above first if this does not fix your problem try
checking the brake pads. Note if they are shiny upon inspection it may
be a good idea to replace them.
Give that a shot and keep me posted on what happens.
Jason
Austin Kupper wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
1) car pulls in one direction
Answer: After rotating the tries you noticed the pull in the opposite
direction, indicating that the tire needs to be checked for air pressure
loss or even rebalanced. If this does not help check the rims for any
major scratches this can cause the tire to be unbalanced.
2) braking vibration,
Answer: Try the above first if this does not fix your problem try
checking the brake pads. Note if they are shiny upon inspection it may
be a good idea to replace them.
Give that a shot and keep me posted on what happens.
Jason
Austin Kupper wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
#5
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
Sounds to me as you have two problems.
1) car pulls in one direction
Answer: After rotating the tries you noticed the pull in the opposite
direction, indicating that the tire needs to be checked for air pressure
loss or even rebalanced. If this does not help check the rims for any
major scratches this can cause the tire to be unbalanced.
2) braking vibration,
Answer: Try the above first if this does not fix your problem try
checking the brake pads. Note if they are shiny upon inspection it may
be a good idea to replace them.
Give that a shot and keep me posted on what happens.
Jason
Austin Kupper wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
1) car pulls in one direction
Answer: After rotating the tries you noticed the pull in the opposite
direction, indicating that the tire needs to be checked for air pressure
loss or even rebalanced. If this does not help check the rims for any
major scratches this can cause the tire to be unbalanced.
2) braking vibration,
Answer: Try the above first if this does not fix your problem try
checking the brake pads. Note if they are shiny upon inspection it may
be a good idea to replace them.
Give that a shot and keep me posted on what happens.
Jason
Austin Kupper wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
On 12/17/03 4:43 PM, in article 20031217154305276-0700@news.easynews.com,
"Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the tire
around.
The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started vibrating
when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a warped brake rotor,
but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball joint (this car only had
38k miles at the time). The telling symptom was that corner of the car was
setting about an inch lower than the other side. Additionally, the excess
heat generated by the bad ball joint also caused the rotor to warp.
Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the wear bar
mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume you checked
the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar is bent or the
pads are not mounted correctly.
You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny little
set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the parking brake.
If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with the e-brake will not
tell you anything about the state of the rear rotors or the main brakes. If
you happen to have a model that uses the rear disks for the e-brake, then
you have probably isolated the problem to the front.
"Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the tire
around.
The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started vibrating
when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a warped brake rotor,
but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball joint (this car only had
38k miles at the time). The telling symptom was that corner of the car was
setting about an inch lower than the other side. Additionally, the excess
heat generated by the bad ball joint also caused the rotor to warp.
Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the wear bar
mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume you checked
the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar is bent or the
pads are not mounted correctly.
You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny little
set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the parking brake.
If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with the e-brake will not
tell you anything about the state of the rear rotors or the main brakes. If
you happen to have a model that uses the rear disks for the e-brake, then
you have probably isolated the problem to the front.
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
On 12/17/03 4:43 PM, in article 20031217154305276-0700@news.easynews.com,
"Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the tire
around.
The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started vibrating
when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a warped brake rotor,
but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball joint (this car only had
38k miles at the time). The telling symptom was that corner of the car was
setting about an inch lower than the other side. Additionally, the excess
heat generated by the bad ball joint also caused the rotor to warp.
Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the wear bar
mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume you checked
the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar is bent or the
pads are not mounted correctly.
You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny little
set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the parking brake.
If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with the e-brake will not
tell you anything about the state of the rear rotors or the main brakes. If
you happen to have a model that uses the rear disks for the e-brake, then
you have probably isolated the problem to the front.
"Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the tire
around.
The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started vibrating
when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a warped brake rotor,
but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball joint (this car only had
38k miles at the time). The telling symptom was that corner of the car was
setting about an inch lower than the other side. Additionally, the excess
heat generated by the bad ball joint also caused the rotor to warp.
Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the wear bar
mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume you checked
the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar is bent or the
pads are not mounted correctly.
You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny little
set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the parking brake.
If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with the e-brake will not
tell you anything about the state of the rear rotors or the main brakes. If
you happen to have a model that uses the rear disks for the e-brake, then
you have probably isolated the problem to the front.
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
On 12/17/03 4:43 PM, in article 20031217154305276-0700@news.easynews.com,
"Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the tire
around.
The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started vibrating
when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a warped brake rotor,
but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball joint (this car only had
38k miles at the time). The telling symptom was that corner of the car was
setting about an inch lower than the other side. Additionally, the excess
heat generated by the bad ball joint also caused the rotor to warp.
Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the wear bar
mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume you checked
the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar is bent or the
pads are not mounted correctly.
You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny little
set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the parking brake.
If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with the e-brake will not
tell you anything about the state of the rear rotors or the main brakes. If
you happen to have a model that uses the rear disks for the e-brake, then
you have probably isolated the problem to the front.
"Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the tire
around.
The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started vibrating
when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a warped brake rotor,
but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball joint (this car only had
38k miles at the time). The telling symptom was that corner of the car was
setting about an inch lower than the other side. Additionally, the excess
heat generated by the bad ball joint also caused the rotor to warp.
Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the wear bar
mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume you checked
the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar is bent or the
pads are not mounted correctly.
You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny little
set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the parking brake.
If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with the e-brake will not
tell you anything about the state of the rear rotors or the main brakes. If
you happen to have a model that uses the rear disks for the e-brake, then
you have probably isolated the problem to the front.
#9
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
On 12/17/03 4:43 PM, in article 20031217154305276-0700@news.easynews.com,
"Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the tire
around.
The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started vibrating
when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a warped brake rotor,
but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball joint (this car only had
38k miles at the time). The telling symptom was that corner of the car was
setting about an inch lower than the other side. Additionally, the excess
heat generated by the bad ball joint also caused the rotor to warp.
Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the wear bar
mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume you checked
the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar is bent or the
pads are not mounted correctly.
You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny little
set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the parking brake.
If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with the e-brake will not
tell you anything about the state of the rear rotors or the main brakes. If
you happen to have a model that uses the rear disks for the e-brake, then
you have probably isolated the problem to the front.
"Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a month.
> I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car pulls
> right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but did for a
> short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my tires are bad and
> may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am brakeing to a stop the
> ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a strange metal fatigue
> noise from the driver side, only under brakeing. After takeing apart the
> calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are not bent the calipers look
> ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to
> clean out some gunk. master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky
> proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots
> were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration.
> I have never had confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this?
>
> These tires do seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be
> it. Ideas?
>
> Austin
The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the tire
around.
The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started vibrating
when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a warped brake rotor,
but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball joint (this car only had
38k miles at the time). The telling symptom was that corner of the car was
setting about an inch lower than the other side. Additionally, the excess
heat generated by the bad ball joint also caused the rotor to warp.
Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the wear bar
mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume you checked
the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar is bent or the
pads are not mounted correctly.
You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny little
set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the parking brake.
If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with the e-brake will not
tell you anything about the state of the rear rotors or the main brakes. If
you happen to have a model that uses the rear disks for the e-brake, then
you have probably isolated the problem to the front.
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
Woops, its a 90 accord. Pads are new, rear brakes are drums.
In <BC072F00.31AFC%e.meyerNOSPAM@ieee.org> E. Meyer wrote:
> On 12/17/03 4:43 PM, in article 20031217154305276-0700@news.easynews.
> com, "Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a
>> month. I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car
>> pulls right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but
>> did for a short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my
>> tires are bad and may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am
>> brakeing to a stop the ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a
>> strange metal fatigue noise from the driver side, only under brakeing.
>> After takeing apart the calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are
>> not bent the calipers look ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although
>> they seemed ok. i was able to clean out some gunk. master cylender is
>> new, i replaced a leaky proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal
>> greatly.the rear boots were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high
>> speed there is no vibration. I have never had confirmation of rotor
>> runout, how can i do this? These tires do seem to run much hotter
>> then the old ones could they be it. Ideas? Austin
>
>
> The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the
> tire around.
>
> The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started
> vibrating when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a
> warped brake rotor, but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball
> joint (this car only had 38k miles at the time). The telling symptom
> was that corner of the car was setting about an inch lower than the
> other side. Additionally, the excess heat generated by the bad ball
> joint also caused the rotor to warp.
>
> Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the
> wear bar mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume
> you checked the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar
> is bent or the pads are not mounted correctly.
>
> You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny
> little set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the
> parking brake. If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with
> the e-brake will not tell you anything about the state of the rear
> rotors or the main brakes. If you happen to have a model that uses
> the rear disks for the e-brake, then you have probably isolated the
> problem to the front.
>
>
>
In <BC072F00.31AFC%e.meyerNOSPAM@ieee.org> E. Meyer wrote:
> On 12/17/03 4:43 PM, in article 20031217154305276-0700@news.easynews.
> com, "Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a
>> month. I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car
>> pulls right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but
>> did for a short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my
>> tires are bad and may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am
>> brakeing to a stop the ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a
>> strange metal fatigue noise from the driver side, only under brakeing.
>> After takeing apart the calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are
>> not bent the calipers look ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although
>> they seemed ok. i was able to clean out some gunk. master cylender is
>> new, i replaced a leaky proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal
>> greatly.the rear boots were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high
>> speed there is no vibration. I have never had confirmation of rotor
>> runout, how can i do this? These tires do seem to run much hotter
>> then the old ones could they be it. Ideas? Austin
>
>
> The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the
> tire around.
>
> The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started
> vibrating when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a
> warped brake rotor, but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball
> joint (this car only had 38k miles at the time). The telling symptom
> was that corner of the car was setting about an inch lower than the
> other side. Additionally, the excess heat generated by the bad ball
> joint also caused the rotor to warp.
>
> Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the
> wear bar mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume
> you checked the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar
> is bent or the pads are not mounted correctly.
>
> You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny
> little set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the
> parking brake. If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with
> the e-brake will not tell you anything about the state of the rear
> rotors or the main brakes. If you happen to have a model that uses
> the rear disks for the e-brake, then you have probably isolated the
> problem to the front.
>
>
>
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
Woops, its a 90 accord. Pads are new, rear brakes are drums.
In <BC072F00.31AFC%e.meyerNOSPAM@ieee.org> E. Meyer wrote:
> On 12/17/03 4:43 PM, in article 20031217154305276-0700@news.easynews.
> com, "Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a
>> month. I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car
>> pulls right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but
>> did for a short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my
>> tires are bad and may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am
>> brakeing to a stop the ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a
>> strange metal fatigue noise from the driver side, only under brakeing.
>> After takeing apart the calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are
>> not bent the calipers look ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although
>> they seemed ok. i was able to clean out some gunk. master cylender is
>> new, i replaced a leaky proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal
>> greatly.the rear boots were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high
>> speed there is no vibration. I have never had confirmation of rotor
>> runout, how can i do this? These tires do seem to run much hotter
>> then the old ones could they be it. Ideas? Austin
>
>
> The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the
> tire around.
>
> The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started
> vibrating when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a
> warped brake rotor, but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball
> joint (this car only had 38k miles at the time). The telling symptom
> was that corner of the car was setting about an inch lower than the
> other side. Additionally, the excess heat generated by the bad ball
> joint also caused the rotor to warp.
>
> Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the
> wear bar mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume
> you checked the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar
> is bent or the pads are not mounted correctly.
>
> You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny
> little set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the
> parking brake. If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with
> the e-brake will not tell you anything about the state of the rear
> rotors or the main brakes. If you happen to have a model that uses
> the rear disks for the e-brake, then you have probably isolated the
> problem to the front.
>
>
>
In <BC072F00.31AFC%e.meyerNOSPAM@ieee.org> E. Meyer wrote:
> On 12/17/03 4:43 PM, in article 20031217154305276-0700@news.easynews.
> com, "Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a
>> month. I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car
>> pulls right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but
>> did for a short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my
>> tires are bad and may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am
>> brakeing to a stop the ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a
>> strange metal fatigue noise from the driver side, only under brakeing.
>> After takeing apart the calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are
>> not bent the calipers look ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although
>> they seemed ok. i was able to clean out some gunk. master cylender is
>> new, i replaced a leaky proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal
>> greatly.the rear boots were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high
>> speed there is no vibration. I have never had confirmation of rotor
>> runout, how can i do this? These tires do seem to run much hotter
>> then the old ones could they be it. Ideas? Austin
>
>
> The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the
> tire around.
>
> The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started
> vibrating when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a
> warped brake rotor, but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball
> joint (this car only had 38k miles at the time). The telling symptom
> was that corner of the car was setting about an inch lower than the
> other side. Additionally, the excess heat generated by the bad ball
> joint also caused the rotor to warp.
>
> Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the
> wear bar mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume
> you checked the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar
> is bent or the pads are not mounted correctly.
>
> You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny
> little set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the
> parking brake. If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with
> the e-brake will not tell you anything about the state of the rear
> rotors or the main brakes. If you happen to have a model that uses
> the rear disks for the e-brake, then you have probably isolated the
> problem to the front.
>
>
>
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
Woops, its a 90 accord. Pads are new, rear brakes are drums.
In <BC072F00.31AFC%e.meyerNOSPAM@ieee.org> E. Meyer wrote:
> On 12/17/03 4:43 PM, in article 20031217154305276-0700@news.easynews.
> com, "Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a
>> month. I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car
>> pulls right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but
>> did for a short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my
>> tires are bad and may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am
>> brakeing to a stop the ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a
>> strange metal fatigue noise from the driver side, only under brakeing.
>> After takeing apart the calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are
>> not bent the calipers look ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although
>> they seemed ok. i was able to clean out some gunk. master cylender is
>> new, i replaced a leaky proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal
>> greatly.the rear boots were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high
>> speed there is no vibration. I have never had confirmation of rotor
>> runout, how can i do this? These tires do seem to run much hotter
>> then the old ones could they be it. Ideas? Austin
>
>
> The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the
> tire around.
>
> The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started
> vibrating when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a
> warped brake rotor, but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball
> joint (this car only had 38k miles at the time). The telling symptom
> was that corner of the car was setting about an inch lower than the
> other side. Additionally, the excess heat generated by the bad ball
> joint also caused the rotor to warp.
>
> Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the
> wear bar mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume
> you checked the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar
> is bent or the pads are not mounted correctly.
>
> You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny
> little set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the
> parking brake. If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with
> the e-brake will not tell you anything about the state of the rear
> rotors or the main brakes. If you happen to have a model that uses
> the rear disks for the e-brake, then you have probably isolated the
> problem to the front.
>
>
>
In <BC072F00.31AFC%e.meyerNOSPAM@ieee.org> E. Meyer wrote:
> On 12/17/03 4:43 PM, in article 20031217154305276-0700@news.easynews.
> com, "Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a
>> month. I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car
>> pulls right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but
>> did for a short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my
>> tires are bad and may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am
>> brakeing to a stop the ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a
>> strange metal fatigue noise from the driver side, only under brakeing.
>> After takeing apart the calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are
>> not bent the calipers look ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although
>> they seemed ok. i was able to clean out some gunk. master cylender is
>> new, i replaced a leaky proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal
>> greatly.the rear boots were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high
>> speed there is no vibration. I have never had confirmation of rotor
>> runout, how can i do this? These tires do seem to run much hotter
>> then the old ones could they be it. Ideas? Austin
>
>
> The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the
> tire around.
>
> The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started
> vibrating when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a
> warped brake rotor, but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball
> joint (this car only had 38k miles at the time). The telling symptom
> was that corner of the car was setting about an inch lower than the
> other side. Additionally, the excess heat generated by the bad ball
> joint also caused the rotor to warp.
>
> Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the
> wear bar mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume
> you checked the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar
> is bent or the pads are not mounted correctly.
>
> You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny
> little set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the
> parking brake. If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with
> the e-brake will not tell you anything about the state of the rear
> rotors or the main brakes. If you happen to have a model that uses
> the rear disks for the e-brake, then you have probably isolated the
> problem to the front.
>
>
>
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
Woops, its a 90 accord. Pads are new, rear brakes are drums.
In <BC072F00.31AFC%e.meyerNOSPAM@ieee.org> E. Meyer wrote:
> On 12/17/03 4:43 PM, in article 20031217154305276-0700@news.easynews.
> com, "Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a
>> month. I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car
>> pulls right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but
>> did for a short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my
>> tires are bad and may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am
>> brakeing to a stop the ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a
>> strange metal fatigue noise from the driver side, only under brakeing.
>> After takeing apart the calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are
>> not bent the calipers look ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although
>> they seemed ok. i was able to clean out some gunk. master cylender is
>> new, i replaced a leaky proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal
>> greatly.the rear boots were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high
>> speed there is no vibration. I have never had confirmation of rotor
>> runout, how can i do this? These tires do seem to run much hotter
>> then the old ones could they be it. Ideas? Austin
>
>
> The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the
> tire around.
>
> The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started
> vibrating when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a
> warped brake rotor, but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball
> joint (this car only had 38k miles at the time). The telling symptom
> was that corner of the car was setting about an inch lower than the
> other side. Additionally, the excess heat generated by the bad ball
> joint also caused the rotor to warp.
>
> Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the
> wear bar mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume
> you checked the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar
> is bent or the pads are not mounted correctly.
>
> You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny
> little set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the
> parking brake. If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with
> the e-brake will not tell you anything about the state of the rear
> rotors or the main brakes. If you happen to have a model that uses
> the rear disks for the e-brake, then you have probably isolated the
> problem to the front.
>
>
>
In <BC072F00.31AFC%e.meyerNOSPAM@ieee.org> E. Meyer wrote:
> On 12/17/03 4:43 PM, in article 20031217154305276-0700@news.easynews.
> com, "Austin Kupper" <spacewars@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a
>> month. I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The car
>> pulls right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term, but
>> did for a short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my
>> tires are bad and may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am
>> brakeing to a stop the ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get a
>> strange metal fatigue noise from the driver side, only under brakeing.
>> After takeing apart the calipers i can not find fault. The bolts are
>> not bent the calipers look ok. I replaced the boot and seel, although
>> they seemed ok. i was able to clean out some gunk. master cylender is
>> new, i replaced a leaky proportioning valve which firmed up the pedal
>> greatly.the rear boots were replaced. If i use the e-brake at high
>> speed there is no vibration. I have never had confirmation of rotor
>> runout, how can i do this? These tires do seem to run much hotter
>> then the old ones could they be it. Ideas? Austin
>
>
> The pull is being caused by a bad tire if it changes by moving the
> tire around.
>
> The vibration could be a number of things. My 2000 TL started
> vibrating when braking at highway speeds. The first thought was a
> warped brake rotor, but it actually was caused by a failing upper ball
> joint (this car only had 38k miles at the time). The telling symptom
> was that corner of the car was setting about an inch lower than the
> other side. Additionally, the excess heat generated by the bad ball
> joint also caused the rotor to warp.
>
> Metallic noise when braking usually means the pads are low and the
> wear bar mounted on the pad is starting to scrape the rotor. I assume
> you checked the pads when you replaced the rotors? Maybe the wear bar
> is bent or the pads are not mounted correctly.
>
> You don't say what model Honda you have, but most Hondas have a tiny
> little set of drum brakes mounted in the rear hubs that serve as the
> parking brake. If yours is one of those, then stopping the car with
> the e-brake will not tell you anything about the state of the rear
> rotors or the main brakes. If you happen to have a model that uses
> the rear disks for the e-brake, then you have probably isolated the
> problem to the front.
>
>
>
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
Thx, I think all four tires are bad in one way or another. they are only
a year old and i cant get much back on them. so much for cheap tires.
Actualy i found that increasing the tire presure reduces the brake
vibration. Why i dont know. I rotated tires front to back but the
vibration remanes
In <jBkEb.3129$5M.84727@dfw-read.news.verio.net> Jason wrote:
> Sounds to me as you have two problems.
>
> 1) car pulls in one direction
> Answer: After rotating the tries you noticed the pull in the
> opposite direction, indicating that the tire needs to be checked for
> air pressure loss or even rebalanced. If this does not help check
> the rims for any major scratches this can cause the tire to be
> unbalanced.
>
> 2) braking vibration,
> Answer: Try the above first if this does not fix your problem try
> checking the brake pads. Note if they are shiny upon inspection it
> may be a good idea to replace them.
>
> Give that a shot and keep me posted on what happens.
>
> Jason
>
> Austin Kupper wrote:
>
>> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a
>> month. I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The
>> car pulls right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term,
>> but did for a short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my
>> tires are bad and may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am
>> brakeing to a stop the ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get
>> a strange metal fatigue noise from the driver side, only under
>> brakeing. After takeing apart the calipers i can not find fault. The
>> bolts are not bent the calipers look ok. I replaced the boot and
>> seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to clean out some gunk.
>> master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky proportioning valve which
>> firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots were replaced. If i use
>> the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration. I have never had
>> confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this? These tires do
>> seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be it. Ideas?
>> Austin
>
>
a year old and i cant get much back on them. so much for cheap tires.
Actualy i found that increasing the tire presure reduces the brake
vibration. Why i dont know. I rotated tires front to back but the
vibration remanes
In <jBkEb.3129$5M.84727@dfw-read.news.verio.net> Jason wrote:
> Sounds to me as you have two problems.
>
> 1) car pulls in one direction
> Answer: After rotating the tries you noticed the pull in the
> opposite direction, indicating that the tire needs to be checked for
> air pressure loss or even rebalanced. If this does not help check
> the rims for any major scratches this can cause the tire to be
> unbalanced.
>
> 2) braking vibration,
> Answer: Try the above first if this does not fix your problem try
> checking the brake pads. Note if they are shiny upon inspection it
> may be a good idea to replace them.
>
> Give that a shot and keep me posted on what happens.
>
> Jason
>
> Austin Kupper wrote:
>
>> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a
>> month. I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The
>> car pulls right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term,
>> but did for a short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my
>> tires are bad and may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am
>> brakeing to a stop the ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get
>> a strange metal fatigue noise from the driver side, only under
>> brakeing. After takeing apart the calipers i can not find fault. The
>> bolts are not bent the calipers look ok. I replaced the boot and
>> seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to clean out some gunk.
>> master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky proportioning valve which
>> firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots were replaced. If i use
>> the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration. I have never had
>> confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this? These tires do
>> seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be it. Ideas?
>> Austin
>
>
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: need more input on brake problem
Thx, I think all four tires are bad in one way or another. they are only
a year old and i cant get much back on them. so much for cheap tires.
Actualy i found that increasing the tire presure reduces the brake
vibration. Why i dont know. I rotated tires front to back but the
vibration remanes
In <jBkEb.3129$5M.84727@dfw-read.news.verio.net> Jason wrote:
> Sounds to me as you have two problems.
>
> 1) car pulls in one direction
> Answer: After rotating the tries you noticed the pull in the
> opposite direction, indicating that the tire needs to be checked for
> air pressure loss or even rebalanced. If this does not help check
> the rims for any major scratches this can cause the tire to be
> unbalanced.
>
> 2) braking vibration,
> Answer: Try the above first if this does not fix your problem try
> checking the brake pads. Note if they are shiny upon inspection it
> may be a good idea to replace them.
>
> Give that a shot and keep me posted on what happens.
>
> Jason
>
> Austin Kupper wrote:
>
>> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a
>> month. I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The
>> car pulls right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term,
>> but did for a short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my
>> tires are bad and may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am
>> brakeing to a stop the ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get
>> a strange metal fatigue noise from the driver side, only under
>> brakeing. After takeing apart the calipers i can not find fault. The
>> bolts are not bent the calipers look ok. I replaced the boot and
>> seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to clean out some gunk.
>> master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky proportioning valve which
>> firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots were replaced. If i use
>> the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration. I have never had
>> confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this? These tires do
>> seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be it. Ideas?
>> Austin
>
>
a year old and i cant get much back on them. so much for cheap tires.
Actualy i found that increasing the tire presure reduces the brake
vibration. Why i dont know. I rotated tires front to back but the
vibration remanes
In <jBkEb.3129$5M.84727@dfw-read.news.verio.net> Jason wrote:
> Sounds to me as you have two problems.
>
> 1) car pulls in one direction
> Answer: After rotating the tries you noticed the pull in the
> opposite direction, indicating that the tire needs to be checked for
> air pressure loss or even rebalanced. If this does not help check
> the rims for any major scratches this can cause the tire to be
> unbalanced.
>
> 2) braking vibration,
> Answer: Try the above first if this does not fix your problem try
> checking the brake pads. Note if they are shiny upon inspection it
> may be a good idea to replace them.
>
> Give that a shot and keep me posted on what happens.
>
> Jason
>
> Austin Kupper wrote:
>
>> History, I turned the rotors, i had a brakeing vibration after a
>> month. I replaced the rotors, same thing after about a month. The
>> car pulls right, i have directional tires so i cant swap long term,
>> but did for a short time and the pull reversed. i am wondering if my
>> tires are bad and may be causing the brakeing vibration. when i am
>> brakeing to a stop the ride gets lumpy at the end, any ideas? I get
>> a strange metal fatigue noise from the driver side, only under
>> brakeing. After takeing apart the calipers i can not find fault. The
>> bolts are not bent the calipers look ok. I replaced the boot and
>> seel, although they seemed ok. i was able to clean out some gunk.
>> master cylender is new, i replaced a leaky proportioning valve which
>> firmed up the pedal greatly.the rear boots were replaced. If i use
>> the e-brake at high speed there is no vibration. I have never had
>> confirmation of rotor runout, how can i do this? These tires do
>> seem to run much hotter then the old ones could they be it. Ideas?
>> Austin
>
>