Richard wrote:
> Thanks again, so much, for all your help. I will see what the
> mechanic says after he looks at the car,

you can test the brake light situation yourself. simply unplug the
wires that connect the reservoir sensor. if the light goes out, you
know it's a problem with the reservoir float. it's a common problem
with aftermarket cylinders. if that is the culprit, either leave
unplugged or get a new [genuine honda] cap/float assembly from a junkyard.


>
> Thanks again!
>
>
>
> On Aug 7, 7:33 am, "Elle" <honda.lion...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>> Some hints on the brake light problem:http://groups.google.com/groups/sear...servoir+wiring...
>>
>> Other keyword searches of alt.autos.honda and
>> rec.autos.makers.honda may turn up more.
>>
>> Depending on the price, how it checks out, and how long you
>> want to keep this Prelude, I would not rule it out yet based
>> on mileage.
>>
>> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
>>
>>
>>
>>> Thanks, elle, for your response. This car has 159,500
>>> miles on it.
>>> Thanks for the link, I have printed it out and will read
>>> it today. I
>>> do plan on taking it to a mechanic to have it inspected,
>>> prior to
>>> making the decision to purchase it, and will be sure to
>>> ask him to
>>> inspect the control arm bushings and other front end and
>>> suspension
>>> parts.
>>> Elle wrote:
>>>> I vaguely recall seeing some postings here over wiring
>>>> problems from the brake fluid reservoir. IIRC, it's
>>>> remedied
>>>> easily.... still, you'll have to research this more.
>>>> Here is some counsel on "buying used" for Hondas:
>>>> http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id18.html
>>>> How many miles are on this Prelude?
>>>> Without knowing more, I'd aim for inspecting the
>>>> suspension
>>>> system very closely. Control arm bushings and ball joints
>>>> would tend to go out for a car this old in years.
>>>> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
>>>>> Folks, what could the cause of this be? I checked the
>>>>> master
>>>>> cylinder, and it looks as though it has enough brake
>>>>> fluid, and the
>>>>> brakes seem to work well. Is this a common issue on
>>>>> this
>>>>> vehicle?
>>>>> What else might I check?
>>>>> By the way, this car has ~160,00 miles on it, and has
>>>>> already had two
>>>>> timing belts put on it. What else goes out regularly
>>>>> on
>>>>> this car, and
>>>>> is there anything that I should look out for, before
>>>>> biting the bullet
>>>>> and purchasing it?
>>>>> Thanks so much in advance!- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>

 

On Aug 7, 10:36 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> Richard wrote:
> > Thanks again, so much, for all your help. I will see what the
> > mechanic says after he looks at the car,
>
> you can test the brake light situation yourself. simply unplug the
> wires that connect the reservoir sensor. if the light goes out, you
> know it's a problem with the reservoir float. it's a common problem
> with aftermarket cylinders. if that is the culprit, either leave
> unplugged or get a new [genuine honda] cap/float assembly from a junkyard.
>
>
>
>
>
> > Thanks again!
>
> > On Aug 7, 7:33 am, "Elle" <honda.lion...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> Some hints on the brake light problem:http://groups.google.com/groups/sear...servoir+wiring...
>
> >> Other keyword searches of alt.autos.honda and
> >> rec.autos.makers.honda may turn up more.
>
> >> Depending on the price, how it checks out, and how long you
> >> want to keep this Prelude, I would not rule it out yet based
> >> on mileage.
>
> >> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
>
> >>> Thanks, elle, for your response. This car has 159,500
> >>> miles on it.
> >>> Thanks for the link, I have printed it out and will read
> >>> it today. I
> >>> do plan on taking it to a mechanic to have it inspected,
> >>> prior to
> >>> making the decision to purchase it, and will be sure to
> >>> ask him to
> >>> inspect the control arm bushings and other front end and
> >>> suspension
> >>> parts.
> >>> Elle wrote:
> >>>> I vaguely recall seeing some postings here over wiring
> >>>> problems from the brake fluid reservoir. IIRC, it's
> >>>> remedied
> >>>> easily.... still, you'll have to research this more.
> >>>> Here is some counsel on "buying used" for Hondas:
> >>>>http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id18.html
> >>>> How many miles are on this Prelude?
> >>>> Without knowing more, I'd aim for inspecting the
> >>>> suspension
> >>>> system very closely. Control arm bushings and ball joints
> >>>> would tend to go out for a car this old in years.
> >>>> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
> >>>>> Folks, what could the cause of this be? I checked the
> >>>>> master
> >>>>> cylinder, and it looks as though it has enough brake
> >>>>> fluid, and the
> >>>>> brakes seem to work well. Is this a common issue on
> >>>>> this
> >>>>> vehicle?
> >>>>> What else might I check?
> >>>>> By the way, this car has ~160,00 miles on it, and has
> >>>>> already had two
> >>>>> timing belts put on it. What else goes out regularly
> >>>>> on
> >>>>> this car, and
> >>>>> is there anything that I should look out for, before
> >>>>> biting the bullet
> >>>>> and purchasing it?
> >>>>> Thanks so much in advance!- Hide quoted text -
> >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Folks, I think we have the brake lamp light figured out - one of the
brake lights in the light in the back windshield is out, that is
probably why the brake lamp light is lit.
We took the car to a mechanic to get a pre-purchase evaluation
yesterday, and he came back with several things wrong with it.
First let me back track, the person who owns it is a good personal
friend of mine, and I don't believe he is lying to me. He tells me
that he has never had to add oil between oil changes.
I would like to bounce some things off of you to get your opinions as
I attempt to analyze what the mechanic told me:

I specifically asked the mechanic to let us know if something is
leaking and he said that there is a little leakage from the front
output crank pulley, valve cover, and possibly the cam seal. Is this
a big deal? The current owner has replaced the timing belt twice, the
last time at 130000 (the car currently has 160000 miles on it), so I
don't think it is time yet to replace the timing belt again.
The struts on the car look to be original - how much are we talking to
replace them, as I would imagine that we would need to pretty soon
with that amount of miles?
The big issue that I see with the car is that the mechanic told me
that both steering rack boots are torn, and that the right swaybar
connecting rod bushing is cracked.
Is this a major expense to repair?

The current owner is asking $2,000 for this car (1992 Honda Prelude S)
- What do you all think? Is that price too high, and how much are
these repairs going to cost?
Thanks so much in advance for your opinions!

 

On Aug 7, 10:36 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> Richard wrote:
> > Thanks again, so much, for all your help. I will see what the
> > mechanic says after he looks at the car,
>
> you can test the brake light situation yourself. simply unplug the
> wires that connect the reservoir sensor. if the light goes out, you
> know it's a problem with the reservoir float. it's a common problem
> with aftermarket cylinders. if that is the culprit, either leave
> unplugged or get a new [genuine honda] cap/float assembly from a junkyard.
>
>
>
>
>
> > Thanks again!
>
> > On Aug 7, 7:33 am, "Elle" <honda.lion...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> Some hints on the brake light problem:http://groups.google.com/groups/sear...servoir+wiring...
>
> >> Other keyword searches of alt.autos.honda and
> >> rec.autos.makers.honda may turn up more.
>
> >> Depending on the price, how it checks out, and how long you
> >> want to keep this Prelude, I would not rule it out yet based
> >> on mileage.
>
> >> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
>
> >>> Thanks, elle, for your response. This car has 159,500
> >>> miles on it.
> >>> Thanks for the link, I have printed it out and will read
> >>> it today. I
> >>> do plan on taking it to a mechanic to have it inspected,
> >>> prior to
> >>> making the decision to purchase it, and will be sure to
> >>> ask him to
> >>> inspect the control arm bushings and other front end and
> >>> suspension
> >>> parts.
> >>> Elle wrote:
> >>>> I vaguely recall seeing some postings here over wiring
> >>>> problems from the brake fluid reservoir. IIRC, it's
> >>>> remedied
> >>>> easily.... still, you'll have to research this more.
> >>>> Here is some counsel on "buying used" for Hondas:
> >>>>http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id18.html
> >>>> How many miles are on this Prelude?
> >>>> Without knowing more, I'd aim for inspecting the
> >>>> suspension
> >>>> system very closely. Control arm bushings and ball joints
> >>>> would tend to go out for a car this old in years.
> >>>> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
> >>>>> Folks, what could the cause of this be? I checked the
> >>>>> master
> >>>>> cylinder, and it looks as though it has enough brake
> >>>>> fluid, and the
> >>>>> brakes seem to work well. Is this a common issue on
> >>>>> this
> >>>>> vehicle?
> >>>>> What else might I check?
> >>>>> By the way, this car has ~160,00 miles on it, and has
> >>>>> already had two
> >>>>> timing belts put on it. What else goes out regularly
> >>>>> on
> >>>>> this car, and
> >>>>> is there anything that I should look out for, before
> >>>>> biting the bullet
> >>>>> and purchasing it?
> >>>>> Thanks so much in advance!- Hide quoted text -
> >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Folks, I think we have the brake lamp light figured out - one of the
brake lights in the light in the back windshield is out, that is
probably why the brake lamp light is lit.
We took the car to a mechanic to get a pre-purchase evaluation
yesterday, and he came back with several things wrong with it.
First let me back track, the person who owns it is a good personal
friend of mine, and I don't believe he is lying to me. He tells me
that he has never had to add oil between oil changes.
I would like to bounce some things off of you to get your opinions as
I attempt to analyze what the mechanic told me:

I specifically asked the mechanic to let us know if something is
leaking and he said that there is a little leakage from the front
output crank pulley, valve cover, and possibly the cam seal. Is this
a big deal? The current owner has replaced the timing belt twice, the
last time at 130000 (the car currently has 160000 miles on it), so I
don't think it is time yet to replace the timing belt again.
The struts on the car look to be original - how much are we talking to
replace them, as I would imagine that we would need to pretty soon
with that amount of miles?
The big issue that I see with the car is that the mechanic told me
that both steering rack boots are torn, and that the right swaybar
connecting rod bushing is cracked.
Is this a major expense to repair?

The current owner is asking $2,000 for this car (1992 Honda Prelude S)
- What do you all think? Is that price too high, and how much are
these repairs going to cost?
Thanks so much in advance for your opinions!

 

On Aug 7, 10:36 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net> wrote:
> Richard wrote:
> > Thanks again, so much, for all your help. I will see what the
> > mechanic says after he looks at the car,
>
> you can test the brake light situation yourself. simply unplug the
> wires that connect the reservoir sensor. if the light goes out, you
> know it's a problem with the reservoir float. it's a common problem
> with aftermarket cylinders. if that is the culprit, either leave
> unplugged or get a new [genuine honda] cap/float assembly from a junkyard.
>
>
>
>
>
> > Thanks again!
>
> > On Aug 7, 7:33 am, "Elle" <honda.lion...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
> >> Some hints on the brake light problem:http://groups.google.com/groups/sear...servoir+wiring...
>
> >> Other keyword searches of alt.autos.honda and
> >> rec.autos.makers.honda may turn up more.
>
> >> Depending on the price, how it checks out, and how long you
> >> want to keep this Prelude, I would not rule it out yet based
> >> on mileage.
>
> >> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
>
> >>> Thanks, elle, for your response. This car has 159,500
> >>> miles on it.
> >>> Thanks for the link, I have printed it out and will read
> >>> it today. I
> >>> do plan on taking it to a mechanic to have it inspected,
> >>> prior to
> >>> making the decision to purchase it, and will be sure to
> >>> ask him to
> >>> inspect the control arm bushings and other front end and
> >>> suspension
> >>> parts.
> >>> Elle wrote:
> >>>> I vaguely recall seeing some postings here over wiring
> >>>> problems from the brake fluid reservoir. IIRC, it's
> >>>> remedied
> >>>> easily.... still, you'll have to research this more.
> >>>> Here is some counsel on "buying used" for Hondas:
> >>>>http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id18.html
> >>>> How many miles are on this Prelude?
> >>>> Without knowing more, I'd aim for inspecting the
> >>>> suspension
> >>>> system very closely. Control arm bushings and ball joints
> >>>> would tend to go out for a car this old in years.
> >>>> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
> >>>>> Folks, what could the cause of this be? I checked the
> >>>>> master
> >>>>> cylinder, and it looks as though it has enough brake
> >>>>> fluid, and the
> >>>>> brakes seem to work well. Is this a common issue on
> >>>>> this
> >>>>> vehicle?
> >>>>> What else might I check?
> >>>>> By the way, this car has ~160,00 miles on it, and has
> >>>>> already had two
> >>>>> timing belts put on it. What else goes out regularly
> >>>>> on
> >>>>> this car, and
> >>>>> is there anything that I should look out for, before
> >>>>> biting the bullet
> >>>>> and purchasing it?
> >>>>> Thanks so much in advance!- Hide quoted text -
> >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Folks, I think we have the brake lamp light figured out - one of the
brake lights in the light in the back windshield is out, that is
probably why the brake lamp light is lit.
We took the car to a mechanic to get a pre-purchase evaluation
yesterday, and he came back with several things wrong with it.
First let me back track, the person who owns it is a good personal
friend of mine, and I don't believe he is lying to me. He tells me
that he has never had to add oil between oil changes.
I would like to bounce some things off of you to get your opinions as
I attempt to analyze what the mechanic told me:

I specifically asked the mechanic to let us know if something is
leaking and he said that there is a little leakage from the front
output crank pulley, valve cover, and possibly the cam seal. Is this
a big deal? The current owner has replaced the timing belt twice, the
last time at 130000 (the car currently has 160000 miles on it), so I
don't think it is time yet to replace the timing belt again.
The struts on the car look to be original - how much are we talking to
replace them, as I would imagine that we would need to pretty soon
with that amount of miles?
The big issue that I see with the car is that the mechanic told me
that both steering rack boots are torn, and that the right swaybar
connecting rod bushing is cracked.
Is this a major expense to repair?

The current owner is asking $2,000 for this car (1992 Honda Prelude S)
- What do you all think? Is that price too high, and how much are
these repairs going to cost?
Thanks so much in advance for your opinions!

 

"Richard" <rfdillon@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1186668860.664325.133290@z24g2000prh.googlegr oups.com...
> On Aug 7, 10:36 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net>
> wrote:
>> Richard wrote:
>> > Thanks again, so much, for all your help. I will see
>> > what the
>> > mechanic says after he looks at the car,
>>
>> you can test the brake light situation yourself. simply
>> unplug the
>> wires that connect the reservoir sensor. if the light
>> goes out, you
>> know it's a problem with the reservoir float. it's a
>> common problem
>> with aftermarket cylinders. if that is the culprit,
>> either leave
>> unplugged or get a new [genuine honda] cap/float assembly
>> from a junkyard.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > Thanks again!
>>
>> > On Aug 7, 7:33 am, "Elle"
>> > <honda.lion...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>> >> Some hints on the brake light
>> >> problem:http://groups.google.com/groups/sear...servoir+wiring...
>>
>> >> Other keyword searches of alt.autos.honda and
>> >> rec.autos.makers.honda may turn up more.
>>
>> >> Depending on the price, how it checks out, and how
>> >> long you
>> >> want to keep this Prelude, I would not rule it out yet
>> >> based
>> >> on mileage.
>>
>> >> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
>>
>> >>> Thanks, elle, for your response. This car has
>> >>> 159,500
>> >>> miles on it.
>> >>> Thanks for the link, I have printed it out and will
>> >>> read
>> >>> it today. I
>> >>> do plan on taking it to a mechanic to have it
>> >>> inspected,
>> >>> prior to
>> >>> making the decision to purchase it, and will be sure
>> >>> to
>> >>> ask him to
>> >>> inspect the control arm bushings and other front end
>> >>> and
>> >>> suspension
>> >>> parts.
>> >>> Elle wrote:
>> >>>> I vaguely recall seeing some postings here over
>> >>>> wiring
>> >>>> problems from the brake fluid reservoir. IIRC, it's
>> >>>> remedied
>> >>>> easily.... still, you'll have to research this more.
>> >>>> Here is some counsel on "buying used" for Hondas:
>> >>>>http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id18.html
>> >>>> How many miles are on this Prelude?
>> >>>> Without knowing more, I'd aim for inspecting the
>> >>>> suspension
>> >>>> system very closely. Control arm bushings and ball
>> >>>> joints
>> >>>> would tend to go out for a car this old in years.
>> >>>> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
>> >>>>> Folks, what could the cause of this be? I checked
>> >>>>> the
>> >>>>> master
>> >>>>> cylinder, and it looks as though it has enough
>> >>>>> brake
>> >>>>> fluid, and the
>> >>>>> brakes seem to work well. Is this a common issue
>> >>>>> on
>> >>>>> this
>> >>>>> vehicle?
>> >>>>> What else might I check?
>> >>>>> By the way, this car has ~160,00 miles on it, and
>> >>>>> has
>> >>>>> already had two
>> >>>>> timing belts put on it. What else goes out
>> >>>>> regularly
>> >>>>> on
>> >>>>> this car, and
>> >>>>> is there anything that I should look out for,
>> >>>>> before
>> >>>>> biting the bullet
>> >>>>> and purchasing it?
>> >>>>> Thanks so much in advance!- Hide quoted text -
>> >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> Folks, I think we have the brake lamp light figured out -
> one of the
> brake lights in the light in the back windshield is out,
> that is
> probably why the brake lamp light is lit.
> We took the car to a mechanic to get a pre-purchase
> evaluation
> yesterday, and he came back with several things wrong with
> it.
> First let me back track, the person who owns it is a good
> personal
> friend of mine, and I don't believe he is lying to me. He
> tells me
> that he has never had to add oil between oil changes.
> I would like to bounce some things off of you to get your
> opinions as
> I attempt to analyze what the mechanic told me:
>
> I specifically asked the mechanic to let us know if
> something is
> leaking and he said that there is a little leakage from
> the front
> output crank pulley, valve cover, and possibly the cam
> seal. Is this
> a big deal?

These seals all are normally replaced when the timing belt
is replaced. Though the valve cover seal (gasket) may be
replaced without doing the timing belt at the same time.

They should be replaced but if the leakage is not bad, it's
not too big a deal. It just depends.

Figure around $400-$600 I'd say to do these seals. May as
well get a new timing belt, water pump, and tensioner while
the technician is deep in the "bowels" of the engine's
systems, too. (That may not make sense unless you know how
all these parts overlap... ) The TB, water pump, and
tensioner will add another $200 or so.

>The current owner has replaced the timing belt twice, the
> last time at 130000 (the car currently has 160000 miles on
> it), so I
> don't think it is time yet to replace the timing belt
> again.

Most likely it's due 6 years or 90k miles,whichever comes
first.

> The struts on the car look to be original - how much are
> we talking to
> replace them, as I would imagine that we would need to
> pretty soon
> with that amount of miles?

The shock absorbers last and last. If they are not leaking,
I would not replace them.

> The big issue that I see with the car is that the mechanic
> told me
> that both steering rack boots are torn,

I defer to others on this one. Haven't seen this much here,
which to me is a bad sign.

> and that the right swaybar
> connecting rod bushing is cracked.

If you're talking about what I think you're talking about,
this is easy to fix and common.

> Is this a major expense to repair?



> The current owner is asking $2,000 for this car (1992
> Honda Prelude S)

See the resources (like Edmunds.com) for guidance on used
car pricing, mentioned at the "Buying Used" site I listed
earlier.

> - What do you all think? Is that price too high, and how
> much are
> these repairs going to cost?

 

"Richard" <rfdillon@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1186668860.664325.133290@z24g2000prh.googlegr oups.com...
> On Aug 7, 10:36 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net>
> wrote:
>> Richard wrote:
>> > Thanks again, so much, for all your help. I will see
>> > what the
>> > mechanic says after he looks at the car,
>>
>> you can test the brake light situation yourself. simply
>> unplug the
>> wires that connect the reservoir sensor. if the light
>> goes out, you
>> know it's a problem with the reservoir float. it's a
>> common problem
>> with aftermarket cylinders. if that is the culprit,
>> either leave
>> unplugged or get a new [genuine honda] cap/float assembly
>> from a junkyard.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > Thanks again!
>>
>> > On Aug 7, 7:33 am, "Elle"
>> > <honda.lion...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>> >> Some hints on the brake light
>> >> problem:http://groups.google.com/groups/sear...servoir+wiring...
>>
>> >> Other keyword searches of alt.autos.honda and
>> >> rec.autos.makers.honda may turn up more.
>>
>> >> Depending on the price, how it checks out, and how
>> >> long you
>> >> want to keep this Prelude, I would not rule it out yet
>> >> based
>> >> on mileage.
>>
>> >> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
>>
>> >>> Thanks, elle, for your response. This car has
>> >>> 159,500
>> >>> miles on it.
>> >>> Thanks for the link, I have printed it out and will
>> >>> read
>> >>> it today. I
>> >>> do plan on taking it to a mechanic to have it
>> >>> inspected,
>> >>> prior to
>> >>> making the decision to purchase it, and will be sure
>> >>> to
>> >>> ask him to
>> >>> inspect the control arm bushings and other front end
>> >>> and
>> >>> suspension
>> >>> parts.
>> >>> Elle wrote:
>> >>>> I vaguely recall seeing some postings here over
>> >>>> wiring
>> >>>> problems from the brake fluid reservoir. IIRC, it's
>> >>>> remedied
>> >>>> easily.... still, you'll have to research this more.
>> >>>> Here is some counsel on "buying used" for Hondas:
>> >>>>http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id18.html
>> >>>> How many miles are on this Prelude?
>> >>>> Without knowing more, I'd aim for inspecting the
>> >>>> suspension
>> >>>> system very closely. Control arm bushings and ball
>> >>>> joints
>> >>>> would tend to go out for a car this old in years.
>> >>>> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
>> >>>>> Folks, what could the cause of this be? I checked
>> >>>>> the
>> >>>>> master
>> >>>>> cylinder, and it looks as though it has enough
>> >>>>> brake
>> >>>>> fluid, and the
>> >>>>> brakes seem to work well. Is this a common issue
>> >>>>> on
>> >>>>> this
>> >>>>> vehicle?
>> >>>>> What else might I check?
>> >>>>> By the way, this car has ~160,00 miles on it, and
>> >>>>> has
>> >>>>> already had two
>> >>>>> timing belts put on it. What else goes out
>> >>>>> regularly
>> >>>>> on
>> >>>>> this car, and
>> >>>>> is there anything that I should look out for,
>> >>>>> before
>> >>>>> biting the bullet
>> >>>>> and purchasing it?
>> >>>>> Thanks so much in advance!- Hide quoted text -
>> >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> Folks, I think we have the brake lamp light figured out -
> one of the
> brake lights in the light in the back windshield is out,
> that is
> probably why the brake lamp light is lit.
> We took the car to a mechanic to get a pre-purchase
> evaluation
> yesterday, and he came back with several things wrong with
> it.
> First let me back track, the person who owns it is a good
> personal
> friend of mine, and I don't believe he is lying to me. He
> tells me
> that he has never had to add oil between oil changes.
> I would like to bounce some things off of you to get your
> opinions as
> I attempt to analyze what the mechanic told me:
>
> I specifically asked the mechanic to let us know if
> something is
> leaking and he said that there is a little leakage from
> the front
> output crank pulley, valve cover, and possibly the cam
> seal. Is this
> a big deal?

These seals all are normally replaced when the timing belt
is replaced. Though the valve cover seal (gasket) may be
replaced without doing the timing belt at the same time.

They should be replaced but if the leakage is not bad, it's
not too big a deal. It just depends.

Figure around $400-$600 I'd say to do these seals. May as
well get a new timing belt, water pump, and tensioner while
the technician is deep in the "bowels" of the engine's
systems, too. (That may not make sense unless you know how
all these parts overlap... ) The TB, water pump, and
tensioner will add another $200 or so.

>The current owner has replaced the timing belt twice, the
> last time at 130000 (the car currently has 160000 miles on
> it), so I
> don't think it is time yet to replace the timing belt
> again.

Most likely it's due 6 years or 90k miles,whichever comes
first.

> The struts on the car look to be original - how much are
> we talking to
> replace them, as I would imagine that we would need to
> pretty soon
> with that amount of miles?

The shock absorbers last and last. If they are not leaking,
I would not replace them.

> The big issue that I see with the car is that the mechanic
> told me
> that both steering rack boots are torn,

I defer to others on this one. Haven't seen this much here,
which to me is a bad sign.

> and that the right swaybar
> connecting rod bushing is cracked.

If you're talking about what I think you're talking about,
this is easy to fix and common.

> Is this a major expense to repair?



> The current owner is asking $2,000 for this car (1992
> Honda Prelude S)

See the resources (like Edmunds.com) for guidance on used
car pricing, mentioned at the "Buying Used" site I listed
earlier.

> - What do you all think? Is that price too high, and how
> much are
> these repairs going to cost?

 

"Richard" <rfdillon@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1186668860.664325.133290@z24g2000prh.googlegr oups.com...
> On Aug 7, 10:36 pm, jim beam <spamvor...@bad.example.net>
> wrote:
>> Richard wrote:
>> > Thanks again, so much, for all your help. I will see
>> > what the
>> > mechanic says after he looks at the car,
>>
>> you can test the brake light situation yourself. simply
>> unplug the
>> wires that connect the reservoir sensor. if the light
>> goes out, you
>> know it's a problem with the reservoir float. it's a
>> common problem
>> with aftermarket cylinders. if that is the culprit,
>> either leave
>> unplugged or get a new [genuine honda] cap/float assembly
>> from a junkyard.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > Thanks again!
>>
>> > On Aug 7, 7:33 am, "Elle"
>> > <honda.lion...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
>> >> Some hints on the brake light
>> >> problem:http://groups.google.com/groups/sear...servoir+wiring...
>>
>> >> Other keyword searches of alt.autos.honda and
>> >> rec.autos.makers.honda may turn up more.
>>
>> >> Depending on the price, how it checks out, and how
>> >> long you
>> >> want to keep this Prelude, I would not rule it out yet
>> >> based
>> >> on mileage.
>>
>> >> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
>>
>> >>> Thanks, elle, for your response. This car has
>> >>> 159,500
>> >>> miles on it.
>> >>> Thanks for the link, I have printed it out and will
>> >>> read
>> >>> it today. I
>> >>> do plan on taking it to a mechanic to have it
>> >>> inspected,
>> >>> prior to
>> >>> making the decision to purchase it, and will be sure
>> >>> to
>> >>> ask him to
>> >>> inspect the control arm bushings and other front end
>> >>> and
>> >>> suspension
>> >>> parts.
>> >>> Elle wrote:
>> >>>> I vaguely recall seeing some postings here over
>> >>>> wiring
>> >>>> problems from the brake fluid reservoir. IIRC, it's
>> >>>> remedied
>> >>>> easily.... still, you'll have to research this more.
>> >>>> Here is some counsel on "buying used" for Hondas:
>> >>>>http://home.earthlink.net/~honda.lioness/id18.html
>> >>>> How many miles are on this Prelude?
>> >>>> Without knowing more, I'd aim for inspecting the
>> >>>> suspension
>> >>>> system very closely. Control arm bushings and ball
>> >>>> joints
>> >>>> would tend to go out for a car this old in years.
>> >>>> "Richard" <rfdil...@earthlink.net> wrote
>> >>>>> Folks, what could the cause of this be? I checked
>> >>>>> the
>> >>>>> master
>> >>>>> cylinder, and it looks as though it has enough
>> >>>>> brake
>> >>>>> fluid, and the
>> >>>>> brakes seem to work well. Is this a common issue
>> >>>>> on
>> >>>>> this
>> >>>>> vehicle?
>> >>>>> What else might I check?
>> >>>>> By the way, this car has ~160,00 miles on it, and
>> >>>>> has
>> >>>>> already had two
>> >>>>> timing belts put on it. What else goes out
>> >>>>> regularly
>> >>>>> on
>> >>>>> this car, and
>> >>>>> is there anything that I should look out for,
>> >>>>> before
>> >>>>> biting the bullet
>> >>>>> and purchasing it?
>> >>>>> Thanks so much in advance!- Hide quoted text -
>> >> - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> Folks, I think we have the brake lamp light figured out -
> one of the
> brake lights in the light in the back windshield is out,
> that is
> probably why the brake lamp light is lit.
> We took the car to a mechanic to get a pre-purchase
> evaluation
> yesterday, and he came back with several things wrong with
> it.
> First let me back track, the person who owns it is a good
> personal
> friend of mine, and I don't believe he is lying to me. He
> tells me
> that he has never had to add oil between oil changes.
> I would like to bounce some things off of you to get your
> opinions as
> I attempt to analyze what the mechanic told me:
>
> I specifically asked the mechanic to let us know if
> something is
> leaking and he said that there is a little leakage from
> the front
> output crank pulley, valve cover, and possibly the cam
> seal. Is this
> a big deal?

These seals all are normally replaced when the timing belt
is replaced. Though the valve cover seal (gasket) may be
replaced without doing the timing belt at the same time.

They should be replaced but if the leakage is not bad, it's
not too big a deal. It just depends.

Figure around $400-$600 I'd say to do these seals. May as
well get a new timing belt, water pump, and tensioner while
the technician is deep in the "bowels" of the engine's
systems, too. (That may not make sense unless you know how
all these parts overlap... ) The TB, water pump, and
tensioner will add another $200 or so.

>The current owner has replaced the timing belt twice, the
> last time at 130000 (the car currently has 160000 miles on
> it), so I
> don't think it is time yet to replace the timing belt
> again.

Most likely it's due 6 years or 90k miles,whichever comes
first.

> The struts on the car look to be original - how much are
> we talking to
> replace them, as I would imagine that we would need to
> pretty soon
> with that amount of miles?

The shock absorbers last and last. If they are not leaking,
I would not replace them.

> The big issue that I see with the car is that the mechanic
> told me
> that both steering rack boots are torn,

I defer to others on this one. Haven't seen this much here,
which to me is a bad sign.

> and that the right swaybar
> connecting rod bushing is cracked.

If you're talking about what I think you're talking about,
this is easy to fix and common.

> Is this a major expense to repair?



> The current owner is asking $2,000 for this car (1992
> Honda Prelude S)

See the resources (like Edmunds.com) for guidance on used
car pricing, mentioned at the "Buying Used" site I listed
earlier.

> - What do you all think? Is that price too high, and how
> much are
> these repairs going to cost?

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:13bm9rg22sdjdfb@corp.supernews.com...
>
>> The big issue that I see with the car is that the mechanic told me
>> that both steering rack boots are torn,
>
> I defer to others on this one. Haven't seen this much here, which to me is
> a bad sign.
>

My experience with that is limited to my old Volvo. I didn't notice the torn
boot until symptoms appeared (hard shaking during light braking) and I
investigated. The boot keeps the inner tie rod ball clean and lubricated,
but the ball and socket on mine were worn about a mm. It felt a whole lot
worse than that!

Replacement is important to protect the tie rod and the rack. At each end
the tie rod has to be removed from the rack to get the boot on - not an easy
DIY job but probably not too bad for a pro with the right tools. The tie rod
is probably screwed on and staked, and an alignment is mandatory afterward.
You should be able to get an accurate estimate of the cost from your
mechanic.

Mike

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:13bm9rg22sdjdfb@corp.supernews.com...
>
>> The big issue that I see with the car is that the mechanic told me
>> that both steering rack boots are torn,
>
> I defer to others on this one. Haven't seen this much here, which to me is
> a bad sign.
>

My experience with that is limited to my old Volvo. I didn't notice the torn
boot until symptoms appeared (hard shaking during light braking) and I
investigated. The boot keeps the inner tie rod ball clean and lubricated,
but the ball and socket on mine were worn about a mm. It felt a whole lot
worse than that!

Replacement is important to protect the tie rod and the rack. At each end
the tie rod has to be removed from the rack to get the boot on - not an easy
DIY job but probably not too bad for a pro with the right tools. The tie rod
is probably screwed on and staked, and an alignment is mandatory afterward.
You should be able to get an accurate estimate of the cost from your
mechanic.

Mike

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:13bm9rg22sdjdfb@corp.supernews.com...
>
>> The big issue that I see with the car is that the mechanic told me
>> that both steering rack boots are torn,
>
> I defer to others on this one. Haven't seen this much here, which to me is
> a bad sign.
>

My experience with that is limited to my old Volvo. I didn't notice the torn
boot until symptoms appeared (hard shaking during light braking) and I
investigated. The boot keeps the inner tie rod ball clean and lubricated,
but the ball and socket on mine were worn about a mm. It felt a whole lot
worse than that!

Replacement is important to protect the tie rod and the rack. At each end
the tie rod has to be removed from the rack to get the boot on - not an easy
DIY job but probably not too bad for a pro with the right tools. The tie rod
is probably screwed on and staked, and an alignment is mandatory afterward.
You should be able to get an accurate estimate of the cost from your
mechanic.

Mike

 

On Aug 9, 10:25 am, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
wrote:
> "Elle" <honda.lion...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
>
> news:13bm9rg22sdjdfb@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
>
> >> The big issue that I see with the car is that the mechanic told me
> >> that both steering rack boots are torn,
>
> > I defer to others on this one. Haven't seen this much here, which to me is
> > a bad sign.
>
> My experience with that is limited to my old Volvo. I didn't notice the torn
> boot until symptoms appeared (hard shaking during light braking) and I
> investigated. The boot keeps the inner tie rod ball clean and lubricated,
> but the ball and socket on mine were worn about a mm. It felt a whole lot
> worse than that!
>
> Replacement is important to protect the tie rod and the rack. At each end
> the tie rod has to be removed from the rack to get the boot on - not an easy
> DIY job but probably not too bad for a pro with the right tools. The tie rod
> is probably screwed on and staked, and an alignment is mandatory afterward.
> You should be able to get an accurate estimate of the cost from your
> mechanic.
>
> Mike

Folks, does anyone know whether or not the 1992 Honda Prelude S has an
air bag or not? Thanks so much!

 

On Aug 9, 10:25 am, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
wrote:
> "Elle" <honda.lion...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
>
> news:13bm9rg22sdjdfb@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
>
> >> The big issue that I see with the car is that the mechanic told me
> >> that both steering rack boots are torn,
>
> > I defer to others on this one. Haven't seen this much here, which to me is
> > a bad sign.
>
> My experience with that is limited to my old Volvo. I didn't notice the torn
> boot until symptoms appeared (hard shaking during light braking) and I
> investigated. The boot keeps the inner tie rod ball clean and lubricated,
> but the ball and socket on mine were worn about a mm. It felt a whole lot
> worse than that!
>
> Replacement is important to protect the tie rod and the rack. At each end
> the tie rod has to be removed from the rack to get the boot on - not an easy
> DIY job but probably not too bad for a pro with the right tools. The tie rod
> is probably screwed on and staked, and an alignment is mandatory afterward.
> You should be able to get an accurate estimate of the cost from your
> mechanic.
>
> Mike

Folks, does anyone know whether or not the 1992 Honda Prelude S has an
air bag or not? Thanks so much!

 

On Aug 9, 10:25 am, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
wrote:
> "Elle" <honda.lion...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
>
> news:13bm9rg22sdjdfb@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
>
> >> The big issue that I see with the car is that the mechanic told me
> >> that both steering rack boots are torn,
>
> > I defer to others on this one. Haven't seen this much here, which to me is
> > a bad sign.
>
> My experience with that is limited to my old Volvo. I didn't notice the torn
> boot until symptoms appeared (hard shaking during light braking) and I
> investigated. The boot keeps the inner tie rod ball clean and lubricated,
> but the ball and socket on mine were worn about a mm. It felt a whole lot
> worse than that!
>
> Replacement is important to protect the tie rod and the rack. At each end
> the tie rod has to be removed from the rack to get the boot on - not an easy
> DIY job but probably not too bad for a pro with the right tools. The tie rod
> is probably screwed on and staked, and an alignment is mandatory afterward.
> You should be able to get an accurate estimate of the cost from your
> mechanic.
>
> Mike

Folks, does anyone know whether or not the 1992 Honda Prelude S has an
air bag or not? Thanks so much!

 

Richard wrote:

> Folks, does anyone know whether or not the 1992 Honda Prelude S has an
> air bag or not? Thanks so much!

I think all Hondas got a driver's airbag (at the least) around '92.

 

Richard wrote:

> Folks, does anyone know whether or not the 1992 Honda Prelude S has an
> air bag or not? Thanks so much!

I think all Hondas got a driver's airbag (at the least) around '92.