André Boisvert

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov.> a écrit dans le message de news:
Xns96AE7395AAFB6jyanikkuanet@129.250.170.85...
> "André Boisvert" <aboisvert001@sympatico.ca> wrote in
> news:LSnKe.3799$yH2.238466@news20.bellglobal.com:
>
>> I bought it new. She'll be 17 years old next month with 315,000 km!
>> The problem started one morning - engine cold - when she would turn
>> over just fine but would not start. Towed to a garage, they changed
>> the distributor cap and rotor, the plugs and cables, and the air
>> filter. It ran fine for a few days. Then, out on the highway -
>> engine warm - it started sputtering, choking, but it never died.
>> Pulled over to the side, killed it, but it started back up on the next
>> try and ran fine for a few days. Same thing happened yesterday but
>> this time, it didn't restart. Tried for an hour before giving up. It
>> was towed for the second time in its life. At the garage, it started
>> on the third try, with an ignition tester between a plug and its
>> cable. It ran fine for the hour long drive back home. Humidity/rain
>> doesn't seem to be a factor.
>>
>> I know she'll leave me for the great scrapyard in the sky someday, but
>> I'm just not ready to let go yet. Any suggestions would be greatly
>> appreciated. Many thanks,
>>
>> André
>>
>>
>>
>
> Google for " honda main relay";they get bad solder joints,and the fuel
> pump
> does not always run,and the car starts,but does not have enough fuel
> pressure to keep running.There are a few websites with instructions how to
> find the MainRelay and how to resolder it.(easy task)
> A new relay will cost at least $50 USD.
>
> This is a VERY common Honda/Acura problem.
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> kua.net


It's been over 3 weeks since I changed my main relay and I haven't had a
single problem. Because the part was 17 years old, I decided to replace it
instead of resoldering it. $68 CAD. Not bad.
Unfortunately, a cracking sound that was coming from the front end got
exponentially worse in frequency and amplitude. I brought it in to my
garage; 3 ball joints and a tie rod. "With the amount of rust you've got
under there...", said my mechanic, with a not-worth-it-time-to-get-a-new-car
look.

Ahhh...Crap. I really liked that car.

Many thanks again, Jim. I'm still blown away by the idea of troubleshooting
a car problem on the internet.

André
Montréal

Elle

"André Boisvert" <aboisvert001@sympatico.ca> wrote
> > "André Boisvert" <aboisvert001@sympatico.ca> wrote
> >> I bought it new. She'll be 17 years old next month with 315,000 km!

> It's been over 3 weeks since I changed my main relay and I haven't had a
> single problem. Because the part was 17 years old, I decided to replace
it
> instead of resoldering it. $68 CAD. Not bad.
> Unfortunately, a cracking sound that was coming from the front end got
> exponentially worse in frequency and amplitude. I brought it in to my
> garage; 3 ball joints and a tie rod. "With the amount of rust you've got
> under there...", said my mechanic, with a
not-worth-it-time-to-get-a-new-car
> look.
>
> Ahhh...Crap. I really liked that car.
>
> Many thanks again, Jim. I'm still blown away by the idea of
troubleshooting
> a car problem on the internet.


Good post. It's particularly helpful as I contemplate my 14-year-old Civic
(bought new, like yours). Fortunately only about half its life has been
spent in really snowy long winters. It has 274k kilometers ( = ~ 170k miles)
on it. So using your numbers and Canadian locale, I figure she's good for at
least three more years. The only major repair/maintenance is the timing
belt, for which I happen to already have the new belt and tensioner. So I am
calculating whether to actually replace these when they're due in summer,
2007... Guess I'll see how everything else looks.

At least the Honda Fit/Jazz should be available by then!

Michael Wojcik

In article <Tp1Te.3649$I02.258627@news20.bellglobal.com>, "André Boisvert" <aboisvert001@sympatico.ca> writes:
>
> Unfortunately, a cracking sound that was coming from the front end got
> exponentially worse in frequency and amplitude. I brought it in to my
> garage; 3 ball joints and a tie rod. "With the amount of rust you've got
> under there...", said my mechanic, with a not-worth-it-time-to-get-a-new-car
> look.

I'm in a similar spot: I have a 1990 Accord LX with a host of
problems. About 200,000 miles, though I don't know the exact
amount because the speed sensor (or its wiring) went out a few
months back, and I haven't had time to look at it yet. (I only
recently reclaimed the car from my stepdaughter.) Windshield's
cracked. All four tires are shot. Rust around rear wheels has
penetrated far enough that the trunk leaks. There's some body
damage, including the front passenger light cluster.

And I suspect bad suspension wear (ball joints and/or tie rods); it
has a nasty shimmy at highway speeds. Could just be the tires, but
I'm not optimistic.

However, I'd like to be able to trade this car in about six months
from now, and if I don't keep it running I won't be able to. I have
to decide if it's worth doing the things that absolutely need to be
done now (windshield, tires, lights, speed sensor), with junkyard
parts where applicable, just to keep it on the road for a little
longer.

On the plus side, the engine still runs well (despite being overdue
for a tuneup, among other things) and the interior is in good shape.
It'd be a pretty nice car for running local errands if the most
urgent things were fixed.

--
Michael Wojcik michael.wojcik@microfocus.com

Unfortunately, as a software professional, tradition requires me to spend New
Years Eve drinking alone, playing video games and sobbing uncontrollably.
-- Peter Johnson