scube wrote:
> Yeah,
> a good shop manual is a bit pricey. This would be a weekend
> venture, so my time in a sense is "free". I've got 18 hours or so to
> spend on this, and worse case my car is still not driveable. I have
> not replaced bushings before (not these bushings), though as I said, if
> I can get to it why fear replacing it? It's just a car...a machine
> for transportation from point A to point B, and it drives on the
> ground=It doesn't fly in the air! If anything, I figure I should be
> able to tow it to a shop and it would be less in labor costs since they
> won't have to remove it ;-) (okay, no comments are necessary on this
> statement...)
>
> Thanks for the suggestion Eric. I took your info and raised up on
> the LCA and then tightened the castle nut for the ball joint. When I
> lowered the control arm(s) the shocks made an interesting hiss. This
> helped out generally and I have determined that the front driver side
> is bad. The shock(s) has been making noise for a while though.
> Usually when it was cold out they would make a slight creaking noise
> when going over slight bumps.
>
> I will look into a manual and further inspection of the strut and
> bushings this weekend. I can borrow a spring compressor if I get that
> far, we'll see. I'll keep this thread posted on my trials and
> tribulations, as well as look for more advice :-)
>
> Thanks all for the suggestions, comments and understanding that not
> everyone can be a mechanics apprentice. Somewhere, sometime, someone
> has to learn it w/out a master by their side.
>
My 93 Accord has been making that creaking noise in the cold for years.
I always wondered what it was. However, I was able to do something that
considerably improved it. I moved to Arizona so now I might hear it once
or twice a year instead of every morning for 4 or 5 months when I was in NJ.

 

well all,

it took me just about 5 hours to complete a driver-side front strut.
In about an hour I had the strut off and purchased a new one/rented a
spring compressor. In another hour I removed the old strut assembly
from the coil spring and ate dinner. Next 2+ hours I wrestled with
getting the shock/spring back together and putting it back on the car.
I could have dramatically reduced the time it took if I had a vise
Compressing that spring took forever having to hold it for support and
screw the bolts down on the compressor. I just moved to another state
and all my tools/crap is still in storage, so I needed to buy some
tools as well.

I found some great links for manuals. Here's where I went,
http://honda.icelord.net/

Total cost came to:
Strut: $52, metric hex keys: $8, set of open-end wrenches: $17,
spring compressor: free upon return, taxes and about 4 hours of my
time.

Rides great now! Thank you all that gave me good advice. Poo-poo on
you nay sayers... It was easier than the CV Joints by far, IMO.

 

"scube" <sowell_s@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1142569504.229173.38270@v46g2000cwv.googlegro ups.com...
> Rides great now! Thank you all that gave me good advice. Poo-poo on
> you nay sayers... It was easier than the CV Joints by far, IMO.
>
I really didn't want to get into the minor fray while you still had the
challenge ahead of you, but I feel the only way we make progress is to reach
a little farther each time. Before you had not changed a strut; now you
have. For everybody there is a first time for everything. There are some
things that are outside our abilities (I stay out of auto trannies and
differentials and shy away from exhaust systems), but posting in fora like
these is enough to find out if there are any "heavens, no!" warnings. Yes -
poo-poo on the nay sayers.

Mike

 

AZ Nomad wrote:
> On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 23:29:35 -0800, Charlie S <chasa@rcn.com> wrote:
>
>
>> On 15 Mar 2006 09:32:43 -0800, "scube" <sowell_s@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>> touche'..
>>> though my reasoning is that if the LCA didn't join correctly to the
>>> knuckle, the fork attached to it maybe lower than normal which could
>>> mean an extended shock (now this may be complete nonsense, I am no
>>> mechanic...). I know quite well what suspensions do, but from a
>>> mechanical point of view there are quite a few variations. I am far
>> >from an expert (obviously), but as long as you can get to a part, why
>>> fear replacing it? Plus, the terms shock and strut seem to be so
>>> interchangeable it is causing confusion in my mind. Thanks for the
>>> reply...
>
>> My experience is that it pays to spend $20 on a repair manual. A
>> mechanic charges up to $100 an hour....do the math.
>
> More like $100 for the shop manual. That $20 chilton's is generally a
> complete waste of money.
>
> How much is your own time worth? Have you ever replaced bushings? It
> takes about 4 hours for an experienced home mechanic. Add $120 for the bushing
> kit and if your time is worth ten bucks an hour, you just pissed away $160
> for no real benefit.

4 hours for an experienced mechanic to replace bushings?

Damn... it took me about 4 hours to replace mine, and that's including
the trip to my buddy's house to use his press.

 

On Fri, 17 Mar 2006 14:11:08 GMT, Jon C <news@jonnythan.com> wrote:


>AZ Nomad wrote:
>> On Wed, 15 Mar 2006 23:29:35 -0800, Charlie S <chasa@rcn.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>> On 15 Mar 2006 09:32:43 -0800, "scube" <sowell_s@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>> touche'..
>>>> though my reasoning is that if the LCA didn't join correctly to the
>>>> knuckle, the fork attached to it maybe lower than normal which could
>>>> mean an extended shock (now this may be complete nonsense, I am no
>>>> mechanic...). I know quite well what suspensions do, but from a
>>>> mechanical point of view there are quite a few variations. I am far
>>> >from an expert (obviously), but as long as you can get to a part, why
>>>> fear replacing it? Plus, the terms shock and strut seem to be so
>>>> interchangeable it is causing confusion in my mind. Thanks for the
>>>> reply...
>>
>>> My experience is that it pays to spend $20 on a repair manual. A
>>> mechanic charges up to $100 an hour....do the math.
>>
>> More like $100 for the shop manual. That $20 chilton's is generally a
>> complete waste of money.
>>
>> How much is your own time worth? Have you ever replaced bushings? It
>> takes about 4 hours for an experienced home mechanic. Add $120 for the bushing
>> kit and if your time is worth ten bucks an hour, you just pissed away $160
>> for no real benefit.

>4 hours for an experienced mechanic to replace bushings?
experienced HOME mechanic.



>Damn... it took me about 4 hours to replace mine, and that's including
>the trip to my buddy's house to use his press.

 

AZ Nomad wrote:

> experienced HOME mechanic.

Jon C just proved your point, and right on the nose, too!

I always get a kick out of work speed comparisons, especially on
something as wildly variant as "replacing a bushing". What make?
Model? Which suspension component? What tools are at your disposal?
How much corrosion? etc...

Toyota MDT in MO

 

Good job, I was going to say, to get an idea of your shocks condion
push down on your car it should bounce up-down-and-stop if the shocks
are good. If not, boing boing boing boing. LOL Did you use one of
those screw down spring compressors to disassemble your strut? I did
once, good grief, next time I will pull the strut and pay a shop a
couple bucks, or buy my buddy at the tire place dinner, and have them
throw it on their hydraulic spring compressor.

Those springs are DANGEROUS when compressed, a vice is not the tool to
use for compression, but for holding things while you use the
compressor they work well.

If you havent done something before, take your time. For me a Haynes
manual (15$) is essential as a general reference. . . when i did my
timing belt, they told me to take off my cruise control. . . . which
is on the other side of the engine bay from the timing belt. . . . . .
.. . . . . . . .

 

<andrewmcnown@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1142660699.252983.234720@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
> Good job, I was going to say, to get an idea of your shocks condion
> push down on your car it should bounce up-down-and-stop if the shocks
> are good. If not, boing boing boing boing. LOL Did you use one of
> those screw down spring compressors to disassemble your strut? I did
> once, good grief, next time I will pull the strut and pay a shop a
> couple bucks, or buy my buddy at the tire place dinner, and have them
> throw it on their hydraulic spring compressor.
>
> Those springs are DANGEROUS when compressed, a vice is not the tool to
> use for compression, but for holding things while you use the
> compressor they work well.
>
The first time I did a strut I was really strapped for cash, had a paucity
of tools and the stores hadn't started the loan-a-tool program. A strut
compressor was out of my budget, so I got a bunch of muffler clamps (the
U-shaped things) and carefully fastened them in strategic places before I
loosened the big nut. Well, the big *hardware* nut, to clarify which nut we
are talking about. I got the strut apart without incident and got the spring
off before... "ZING!" all the clamps slipped around to one side of the
spring. I succeeded in getting it all straightened out using a big pair of
channel locks and a pair of vise grips, but my hands hurt when I was done. I
actually got the other side done without incident.

Mike

 

Michael Pardee wrote:
> <andrewmcnown@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1142660699.252983.234720@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
>
>>Good job, I was going to say, to get an idea of your shocks condion
>>push down on your car it should bounce up-down-and-stop if the shocks
>>are good. If not, boing boing boing boing. LOL Did you use one of
>>those screw down spring compressors to disassemble your strut? I did
>>once, good grief, next time I will pull the strut and pay a shop a
>>couple bucks, or buy my buddy at the tire place dinner, and have them
>>throw it on their hydraulic spring compressor.
>>
>>Those springs are DANGEROUS when compressed, a vice is not the tool to
>>use for compression, but for holding things while you use the
>>compressor they work well.
>>
>
> The first time I did a strut I was really strapped for cash, had a paucity
> of tools and the stores hadn't started the loan-a-tool program. A strut
> compressor was out of my budget, so I got a bunch of muffler clamps (the
> U-shaped things) and carefully fastened them in strategic places before I
> loosened the big nut. Well, the big *hardware* nut, to clarify which nut we
> are talking about. I got the strut apart without incident and got the spring
> off before... "ZING!" all the clamps slipped around to one side of the
> spring. I succeeded in getting it all straightened out using a big pair of
> channel locks and a pair of vise grips, but my hands hurt when I was done. I
> actually got the other side done without incident.
>
> Mike
>
>

Along the same lines, the Harbor Freight spring compressors are
perfectly adequate for a small FWD car and dirt cheap. Mine have
probably done 5 or 6 different cars. They are a PITA with hand tools
however; oiling the screws helps some but not a lot.

I wouldn't try them on a really stiff suspension or a heavy car
though... fortunately my larger cars don't have struts and therefore
don't require a spring compressor.

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

 

Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut and now my car bounces
again. It is no where near as bad as it was with the bad strut, but
it is still unsafe. I changed the driver's side and when I compare it
w/ the passenger side it is much more springy.
The passenger side (original strut) is hard to push down on. If I
push down on the hood above the wheel it barely moves and there is not
much bounce at all (it's quite hard -could a strut be bad and be too
hard?).
When I do the same to the driver's side (non-OEM strut) it goes down
relatively easy (not much though) and then up, but then returns to the
original level with only a single up and down. ... it's just easier to
'wobble' the car from that side.
I was wondering if I could have messed the spring up when I had the
compressor on there, maybe have left them on for too long. I doubt
it..

I wonder if the damper brand I got is just crappy and doesn't
"dampen" very well or if it was a fluke and I got a weak one. It
was the cheapest Autozone had, a GABRIEL ULTRA SHOCK/STRUT, which came
with a lifetime warranty. The other one they had, the GABRIEL GUARDIAN
SHOCK/STRUT, was only a dollar more with a one year warranty though..

The spring still 'springs', but the damper doesn't 'dampen'. I'm
guessing it to be the damper, but would a spring do anything like this?
Maybe while I had the compressor on it it lost some length (got
shorter) compared to the passenger side spring? Not entirely likely,
but I read you should replace both springs at the same time. Maybe I
should replace both struts at the same time. Anyways...


any suggestions? Thanks all!!

 

Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut and now my car bounces
again. It is no where near as bad as it was with the bad strut, but
it is still unsafe. I changed the driver's side and when I compare it
w/ the passenger side it is much more springy.
The passenger side (original strut) is hard to push down on. If I
push down on the hood above the wheel it barely moves and there is not
much bounce at all (it's quite hard -could a strut be bad and be too
hard?).
When I do the same to the driver's side (non-OEM strut) it goes down
relatively easy (not much though) and then up, but then returns to the
original level with only a single up and down. ... it's just easier to
'wobble' the car from that side.
I was wondering if I could have messed the spring up when I had the
compressor on there, maybe have left them on for too long. I doubt
it..

I wonder if the damper brand I got is just crappy and doesn't
"dampen" very well or if it was a fluke and I got a weak one. It
was the cheapest Autozone had, a GABRIEL ULTRA SHOCK/STRUT, which came
with a lifetime warranty. The other one they had, the GABRIEL GUARDIAN
SHOCK/STRUT, was only a dollar more with a one year warranty though..

The spring still 'springs', but the damper doesn't 'dampen'. I'm
guessing it to be the damper, but would a spring do anything like this?
Maybe while I had the compressor on it it lost some length (got
shorter) compared to the passenger side spring? Not entirely likely,
but I read you should replace both springs at the same time. Maybe I
should replace both struts at the same time. Anyways...


any suggestions? Thanks all!!

 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1143854852.951903.126900@j33g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

> Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut



You're not really supposed to replace just one. You should replace them in
axle sets.

And what year and model Honda is this? Most older Hondas do not have
"struts", but dampers instead (yes it matters). It is critical in those
cases that you snug down the bushing bolts with the suspension at its
normal resting attitude.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in
news:1143854852.951903.126900@j33g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com:

> Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut



You're not really supposed to replace just one. You should replace them in
axle sets.

And what year and model Honda is this? Most older Hondas do not have
"struts", but dampers instead (yes it matters). It is critical in those
cases that you snug down the bushing bolts with the suspension at its
normal resting attitude.

--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1143854852.951903.126900@j33g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut and now my car bounces
> again. It is no where near as bad as it was with the bad strut, but
> it is still unsafe. I changed the driver's side and when I compare it
> w/ the passenger side it is much more springy.
> The passenger side (original strut) is hard to push down on. If I
> push down on the hood above the wheel it barely moves and there is not
> much bounce at all (it's quite hard -could a strut be bad and be too
> hard?).

The strut is bad, replace it.

> When I do the same to the driver's side (non-OEM strut) it goes down
> relatively easy (not much though) and then up, but then returns to the
> original level with only a single up and down. ... it's just easier to
> 'wobble' the car from that side.

That test you did indicates the strut is ok.

> I was wondering if I could have messed the spring up when I had the
> compressor on there, maybe have left them on for too long. I doubt
> it..

Nope

>
> I wonder if the damper brand I got is just crappy and doesn't
> "dampen" very well or if it was a fluke and I got a weak one. It
> was the cheapest Autozone had, a GABRIEL ULTRA SHOCK/STRUT, which came
> with a lifetime warranty. The other one they had, the GABRIEL GUARDIAN
> SHOCK/STRUT, was only a dollar more with a one year warranty though..

Should be fine.

>
> The spring still 'springs', but the damper doesn't 'dampen'. I'm
> guessing it to be the damper, but would a spring do anything like this?
> Maybe while I had the compressor on it it lost some length (got
> shorter) compared to the passenger side spring? Not entirely likely,
> but I read you should replace both springs at the same time. Maybe I
> should replace both struts at the same time. Anyways...
>
>
> any suggestions? Thanks all!!

Replace the bad strut on the passenger side now. This is why it is
recommended to replace struts/shocks in pairs. I would also recommend the
rear shocks. You can check them the same way you did the struts.
>

 

"scube" <boxfreedom@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1143854852.951903.126900@j33g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Okay, well I replaced my driver's side strut and now my car bounces
> again. It is no where near as bad as it was with the bad strut, but
> it is still unsafe. I changed the driver's side and when I compare it
> w/ the passenger side it is much more springy.
> The passenger side (original strut) is hard to push down on. If I
> push down on the hood above the wheel it barely moves and there is not
> much bounce at all (it's quite hard -could a strut be bad and be too
> hard?).

The strut is bad, replace it.

> When I do the same to the driver's side (non-OEM strut) it goes down
> relatively easy (not much though) and then up, but then returns to the
> original level with only a single up and down. ... it's just easier to
> 'wobble' the car from that side.

That test you did indicates the strut is ok.

> I was wondering if I could have messed the spring up when I had the
> compressor on there, maybe have left them on for too long. I doubt
> it..

Nope

>
> I wonder if the damper brand I got is just crappy and doesn't
> "dampen" very well or if it was a fluke and I got a weak one. It
> was the cheapest Autozone had, a GABRIEL ULTRA SHOCK/STRUT, which came
> with a lifetime warranty. The other one they had, the GABRIEL GUARDIAN
> SHOCK/STRUT, was only a dollar more with a one year warranty though..

Should be fine.

>
> The spring still 'springs', but the damper doesn't 'dampen'. I'm
> guessing it to be the damper, but would a spring do anything like this?
> Maybe while I had the compressor on it it lost some length (got
> shorter) compared to the passenger side spring? Not entirely likely,
> but I read you should replace both springs at the same time. Maybe I
> should replace both struts at the same time. Anyways...
>
>
> any suggestions? Thanks all!!

Replace the bad strut on the passenger side now. This is why it is
recommended to replace struts/shocks in pairs. I would also recommend the
rear shocks. You can check them the same way you did the struts.
>