On Sun, 1 Jan 2006, TE Cheah wrote:

> | WD 40 is $hit in a can. Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so
> I bought a can : it cannot loosen rusty bolts.

From this we learn a few things:

1) Yes, WD40 is mostly good at loosening money that was stuck in your
wallet.

2) Popular Mechanics is full of *****.

There are two and *only* two penetrants I mess with any more: Kroil and
Chrysler P/N 4318039.

 

"« Paul »" <"=?x-user-defined?Q?=AB?= Paul
=?x-user-defined?Q?=BB?="@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
news:43B80AB8.711365AA@houston.rr.com...
SoCalMike wrote:
>
> « Paul » wrote:
> > If it were my car I would:
> > Not bother with any sort of solvent - IMO it's a waste of time.
> > 1) Knock the center of it down into the exhaust pipe.
> > 2) Use a hacksaw blade to saw slits into the remaining threads.
>
> if room permits, a sawzall would make quick work of that
>
> > 3) Knock the slit pieces into the exhaust pipe.
> > 4) Install new O2 sensor.

Yes. That never even dawned on me.
And I'm usually the first one to reach for my air or electric tools.

This poses another problem..... you will get one hell of a rattle in the
exhaust pipe until its removed...

Fwed

 

Elle wrote:
> Sure, if all a man wants around him is other manly
> technicians.
>
> I advise "Goop" or similar, followed by ordinary soap, then,
> for men, cologne or aftershave. (Tip: Amazing how huggable
> men are when the scent of even a little aftershave is in the
> air--I'm not proud of it, but with enough aftershave, I'll
> swoon even before men of a different political party
> affiliation.)
>
> Anything but that WD-40 (or PB Blaster, etc.) odor...
>
> Brandy? Rav?
>
> I've stopped bringing penetrating oils into the house for
> even little cleanup jobs at the kitchen sink, because they
> make the whole house reek for a day.
>
> Happiest of New Years to all. Be safe, find peace.

So using that handy dandy WD40 spray can as room refresher is out,
then?
May all your Hondas keep running.

Remco

 

On 2006-01-01, Daniel J. Stern <dastern@127.0.0.1> wrote:

> From this we learn a few things:

> 2) Popular Mechanics is full of *****.

Mainly, that you don't know how to spell !

nb

 

notbob wrote:

> On 2006-01-01, Daniel J. Stern <dastern@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>
> > From this we learn a few things:
>
> > 2) Popular Mechanics is full of *****.
>
> Mainly, that you don't know how to spell !
>



It's a legitimate spelling.
http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=*****

 

Wow, that can be a tuff one.

My first choice; ox-ace heat, followed by the wrench
Another option that was said to me was try to tighten first, then back out.
This tip was from a old master tech that teaches tech courses. Now I tried
it once and it didn't work for me, but we still try (I think I used heat on
that one.)
He also said ATf is a good penetrate. get the part hot and pun some on it
and let it set overnight, the dissipating heat will wick it into the
threads.
I also have in my box a tap that is the 02 sensor size, wasn't easy to find,
but I ordered it before I needed it.
There also is an heli-coil set for thread repairs, sometimes they screw
themselves up on the way out
If you remove the manifold you could carry it to a vise or a machine shop.
Heat is always the best choice.


--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troub...l_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/


"Danny Beardsley" <dbeardsl@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1136063258.216352.276710@z14g2000cwz.googlegr oups.com...
> In the process of trying to replace my O2 (Oxygen) sensor on my 1993
> honda civic EX, I broke the old one off. I tried some usual stuff,
> knocking it with a hammer, liberal WD-40, running the car for a bit to
> heat up the manifold. Anyway, TINK! it broke. Any suggestions?
>
> Two pictures of the sensor and manifold
> http://img416.imageshack.us/my.php?i...anifold7eh.jpg
> http://img416.imageshack.us/my.php?i...2sensor9it.jpg
>

 

Michael Pardee wrote:
> restore ribbons if you have a dot matrix printer around. Some people have
> used it as diesel starting fluid, but I've never had the occasion.

I've used it as a gas starting fluid (old worn out carburetted cars,
sub-zero temps). It's good because it's not nearly as explosive as
ether, but it will still ignite easily enough to turn your engine over
and get it going.

 

On Sun, 1 Jan 2006 12:09:10 -0500, "fweddybear" <fweddybear@***.net>
wrote:

>
>"« Paul »" <"=?x-user-defined?Q?=AB?= Paul
>=?x-user-defined?Q?=BB?="@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
>news:43B80AB8.711365AA@houston.rr.com...
>SoCalMike wrote:
>>
>> « Paul » wrote:
>> > If it were my car I would:
>> > Not bother with any sort of solvent - IMO it's a waste of time.
>> > 1) Knock the center of it down into the exhaust pipe.
>> > 2) Use a hacksaw blade to saw slits into the remaining threads.
>>
>> if room permits, a sawzall would make quick work of that
>>
>> > 3) Knock the slit pieces into the exhaust pipe.
>> > 4) Install new O2 sensor.
>
>Yes. That never even dawned on me.
>And I'm usually the first one to reach for my air or electric tools.
>
> This poses another problem..... you will get one hell of a rattle in the
>exhaust pipe until its removed...
>
>Fwed
>

He could trying using a magnetic retrieval tool to pick up any pieces
left in the pipe.

It looks like the sawblade suggestion is worth a try, but personally I
would consider it as the last resort. Twisting it out with some kind
of long-handled tool would be my first attempt. We can see what
happened with his first attempt. It broke the sensor off. Now you
just have to twist it out with that pipe gizmo you said you can buy at
Home Depot or somesuch.

In fact, I am going there tomorrow just to look for such a thing.
What is it called? Maybe I will see it in the plumbing department.

Lg

 

"Elle" <honda.lioness@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:YLTtf.1066$%W1.878@newsread2.news.atl.earthli nk.net...
> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote
>> WD-40 is good, but not as a lubricant or penetrant (unless
> you have no real
>> option available, then it's better than nothing in a
> pinch). It works well
>> for cleaning up oily tools, for getting wet ignitions
> going, and leaves a
>> nice smell on your hands; manly (sorry, Elle) and
> pleasant.
>
> Sure, if all a man wants around him is other manly
> technicians.
>
Elle: 1 Mike: 0

Mike

 

"Lawrence Glickman" <Lawrence_Glickman@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:a8agr1tdq97eeh2b9glla93evbu5tqi393@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 1 Jan 2006 12:09:10 -0500, "fweddybear" <fweddybear@***.net>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>"« Paul »" <"=?x-user-defined?Q?=AB?= Paul
>>=?x-user-defined?Q?=BB?="@houston.rr.com> wrote in message
>>news:43B80AB8.711365AA@houston.rr.com...
>>SoCalMike wrote:
>>>
>>> « Paul » wrote:
>>> > If it were my car I would:
>>> > Not bother with any sort of solvent - IMO it's a waste of time.
>>> > 1) Knock the center of it down into the exhaust pipe.
>>> > 2) Use a hacksaw blade to saw slits into the remaining threads.
>>>
>>> if room permits, a sawzall would make quick work of that
>>>
>>> > 3) Knock the slit pieces into the exhaust pipe.
>>> > 4) Install new O2 sensor.
>>
>>Yes. That never even dawned on me.
>>And I'm usually the first one to reach for my air or electric tools.
>>
>> This poses another problem..... you will get one hell of a rattle in
>> the
>>exhaust pipe until its removed...
>>
>>Fwed
>>
>
> He could trying using a magnetic retrieval tool to pick up any pieces
> left in the pipe.
>
> It looks like the sawblade suggestion is worth a try, but personally I
> would consider it as the last resort. Twisting it out with some kind
> of long-handled tool would be my first attempt. We can see what
> happened with his first attempt. It broke the sensor off. Now you
> just have to twist it out with that pipe gizmo you said you can buy at
> Home Depot or somesuch.
>
> In fact, I am going there tomorrow just to look for such a thing.
> What is it called? Maybe I will see it in the plumbing department.
>
> Lg

Earlier on, I had recommended a tool that is used for metal piping. Its
a plumbers tool and when turned counterclockwise, it grabs the inside of
whats left and turns it out. It works so simply, its like you were just
taking the thing out without any effort. I think since he hasn't posted
back, he is probably out looking for the item....the set i have comes in 3
different sizes.

Fwed

 

notbob wrote:
>
> On 2006-01-01, Daniel J. Stern <dastern@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>
> > From this we learn a few things:
>
> > 2) Popular Mechanics is full of *****.
>
> Mainly, that you don't know how to spell !
>
> nb



"Schitt" is much more diplomatic...

<G>

JT

 

aarcuda69062 wrote:
> In article
> <1136122410.266996.37710@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups. com>,
> "Al Bundy" <MSfortune@mcpmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I'd be tempted to forget removing it and simply drill a new hole and
> > tap it. I think I would be done in an hour including a trip to the
> > store for the tap if I didn't have one, but I do.
>
> Did you even bother to look at the pictures?
>
> If he leaves it as is, he's going to have a hell of an exhaust
> leak, not to mention that there's not likely to be sufficient
> meat in any other area of the manifold to mount an O2 sensor.

On the other hand I DID look at the pictures and the piece he has left
in the manifold should not leak. It's broke off almost flush with the
edge. The O2 sensor does not have a hold in the center like a
lifesaver. The boss for the sensor is thicker, but I believe the
casting has enough for holding a sensor. It's a crap shoot maybe. A
person could drill a 3/16 test hole to see how thick it is there and
make the decision to go forward or not and plug the hole. Believe it or
not, O2 sensors are moved around on the manifold like this at times.

 

On Sun, 1 Jan 2006, notbob wrote:

> On 2006-01-01, Daniel J. Stern <dastern@127.0.0.1> wrote:
>
>> From this we learn a few things:
>
>> 2) Popular Mechanics is full of *****.
>
> Mainly, that you don't know how to spell !

....or that you're a cloistered, ignorant, triggermouthed American.

 

In article
<1136157026.651848.153470@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups .com>,
"Al Bundy" <MSfortune@mcpmail.com> wrote:

> > Did you even bother to look at the pictures?

> On the other hand I DID look at the pictures and the piece he has left
> in the manifold should not leak. It's broke off almost flush with the
> edge. The O2 sensor does not have a hold in the center like a
> lifesaver.

Look again. I can clearly see the zirconia 'thimble' that is
exposed inside the louvered sensor tip.

> The boss for the sensor is thicker, but I believe the
> casting has enough for holding a sensor. It's a crap shoot maybe. A
> person could drill a 3/16 test hole to see how thick it is there and
> make the decision to go forward or not and plug the hole.

Indeed. What reliable method would he use to plug a hole in cast
iron?

> Believe it or
> not, O2 sensors are moved around on the manifold like this at times.

Haven't seen it in over 36 years. In a pipe, yes, but not in a
manifold.

 

Remco wrote:
> Elle wrote:
>
>>Sure, if all a man wants around him is other manly
>>technicians.
>>
>>I advise "Goop" or similar, followed by ordinary soap, then,
>>for men, cologne or aftershave. (Tip: Amazing how huggable
>>men are when the scent of even a little aftershave is in the
>>air--I'm not proud of it, but with enough aftershave, I'll
>>swoon even before men of a different political party
>>affiliation.)
>>
>>Anything but that WD-40 (or PB Blaster, etc.) odor...
>>
>>Brandy? Rav?
>>
>>I've stopped bringing penetrating oils into the house for
>>even little cleanup jobs at the kitchen sink, because they
>>make the whole house reek for a day.
>>
>>Happiest of New Years to all. Be safe, find peace.
>
>
> So using that handy dandy WD40 spray can as room refresher is out,
> then?
> May all your Hondas keep running.
>
> Remco
>

Completely apropos of nothing, but I actually love the smell of gear
oil. I can't quite warm up to the limited slip additive, however...

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel