Danny Beardsley wrote:
>
> In the process of trying to replace my O2 (Oxygen) sensor on my 1993
> honda civic EX, I broke the old one off. I tried some usual stuff,
> knocking it with a hammer, liberal WD-40, running the car for a bit to
> heat up the manifold. Anyway, TINK! it broke. Any suggestions?
>
> Two pictures of the sensor and manifold
> http://img416.imageshack.us/my.php?i...anifold7eh.jpg
> http://img416.imageshack.us/my.php?i...2sensor9it.jpg

If it were my car I would:
Not bother with any sort of solvent - IMO it's a waste of time.
1) Knock the center of it down into the exhaust pipe.
2) Use a hacksaw blade to saw slits into the remaining threads.
3) Knock the slit pieces into the exhaust pipe.
4) Install new O2 sensor.

 

| WD 40 is $hit in a can.

Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
it cannot loosen rusty bolts.

 

"Steve W." wrote:
>
> HEAT. Grab a torch (MAPP or propane will work just take a bit longer)
> Heat the remaining part and the manifold till it is red hot and then
> spray it with some good lube(Kroil, PB Blaster or the like NOT WD40). It
> will smoke like crazy. Let it cool and wipe it off. Now heat it again
> and drive a tapered square style EZ OUT in good. let it set a bit and
> turn it out. should come out easily this way.
>

Heat was going to be my recommendation as well (though without spraying it
with penetrating oil while it was hot). Once it's hot, try using the EZ
out. Though, I tend to prefer the spiral fluted extractors over the taper
square style. In addition, make sure that you're not putting a side load on
the extractor, just a twisting load. Side loads tend to make them brake.
If you're going to drill it, then be sure to use left handed drill bits
since they will help to loosen the remaining piece from the threads. Still,
it looks like there's enough rust in there to require heating with a torch.

Eric

 

TE Cheah wrote:
> | WD 40 is $hit in a can.
>
> Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
> it cannot loosen rusty bolts.
>

Probably because it's become "common knowledge" that it works; kind of
like "Budweiser is good beer."

nate

--
replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

 

Nate Nagel <njnagel@flycast.net> writes:
>TE Cheah wrote:
>> | WD 40 is $hit in a can.
>>
>> Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
>> it cannot loosen rusty bolts.

>Probably because it's become "common knowledge" that it works; kind of
>like "Budweiser is good beer."

Budweiser is beer?
--
/"\ Bernd Felsche - Innovative Reckoning, Perth, Western Australia
\ / ASCII ribbon campaign | German words of the year 2005:
X against HTML mail | Bundeskanzlerin Tsunami Gammelfleisch
/ \ and postings | Sadly, in that order.

 

I'd be tempted to forget removing it and simply drill a new hole and
tap it. I think I would be done in an hour including a trip to the
store for the tap if I didn't have one, but I do.

 

"TE Cheah" <no@spam.biz> wrote in message news:43b7b966_1@news.tm.net.my...
>| WD 40 is $hit in a can.
>
> Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
> it cannot loosen rusty bolts.
>
>
WD-40 is good, but not as a lubricant or penetrant (unless you have no real
option available, then it's better than nothing in a pinch). It works well
for cleaning up oily tools, for getting wet ignitions going, and leaves a
nice smell on your hands; manly (sorry, Elle) and pleasant. It will also
restore ribbons if you have a dot matrix printer around. Some people have
used it as diesel starting fluid, but I've never had the occasion.

When I was a cyclist I used the WD-40 chain lube system. Every weekend I'd
spray the "power train" (chain and everything) with Gunk, hose it off, and
spray it with WD-40. It's a lazy way to keep the chain clean and lubricated
enough for light use, but the chain does wear faster than it does with real
chain lube. Oddly, sometimes bicycle brakes work better (don't chatter, more
even grip) if the rim is wiped with a bit of WD-40... testament to the
limitations of WD-40 as a lubricant.

Mike

 

In article
<1136122410.266996.37710@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups. com>,
"Al Bundy" <MSfortune@mcpmail.com> wrote:

> I'd be tempted to forget removing it and simply drill a new hole and
> tap it. I think I would be done in an hour including a trip to the
> store for the tap if I didn't have one, but I do.

Did you even bother to look at the pictures?

If he leaves it as is, he's going to have a hell of an exhaust
leak, not to mention that there's not likely to be sufficient
meat in any other area of the manifold to mount an O2 sensor.

 

aarcuda69062 wrote:
> In article
> <1136122410.266996.37710@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups. com>,
> "Al Bundy" <MSfortune@mcpmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>>I'd be tempted to forget removing it and simply drill a new hole and
>>tap it. I think I would be done in an hour including a trip to the
>>store for the tap if I didn't have one, but I do.
>
>
> Did you even bother to look at the pictures?
>
> If he leaves it as is, he's going to have a hell of an exhaust
> leak, not to mention that there's not likely to be sufficient
> meat in any other area of the manifold to mount an O2 sensor.

Maybe he can just take the whole manifold off and take it to a welding
shop or such and have them remove it, and then re install it?

Bob

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Michael Pardee wrote:
> "TE Cheah" <no@spam.biz> wrote in message news:43b7b966_1@news.tm.net.my...
> >| WD 40 is $hit in a can.
> >
> > Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
> > it cannot loosen rusty bolts.
> >
> >
> WD-40 is good, but not as a lubricant or penetrant (unless you have no real
> option available, then it's better than nothing in a pinch). It works well
> for cleaning up oily tools, for getting wet ignitions going, and leaves a
> nice smell on your hands; manly (sorry, Elle) and pleasant. It will also
> restore ribbons if you have a dot matrix printer around. Some people have
> used it as diesel starting fluid, but I've never had the occasion.
>
> When I was a cyclist I used the WD-40 chain lube system. Every weekend I'd
> spray the "power train" (chain and everything) with Gunk, hose it off, and
> spray it with WD-40. It's a lazy way to keep the chain clean and lubricated
> enough for light use, but the chain does wear faster than it does with real
> chain lube. Oddly, sometimes bicycle brakes work better (don't chatter, more
> even grip) if the rim is wiped with a bit of WD-40... testament to the
> limitations of WD-40 as a lubricant.
>

I agree with Mike.
It cleans up tools really well.

I am restoring an old VW bug and its rust just laughs at WD40.
A much better choice is PB blaster or Kroil for penetrating oil.

Remco

 

TE Cheah wrote:
>
> | WD 40 is $hit in a can.
>
> Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
> it cannot loosen rusty bolts.

WD-40 = Water Displacement formula #40.
It never was meant for loosening rusty bolts.

 

« Paul » wrote:
> If it were my car I would:
> Not bother with any sort of solvent - IMO it's a waste of time.
> 1) Knock the center of it down into the exhaust pipe.
> 2) Use a hacksaw blade to saw slits into the remaining threads.

if room permits, a sawzall would make quick work of that

> 3) Knock the slit pieces into the exhaust pipe.
> 4) Install new O2 sensor.

 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote
> "TE Cheah" <no@spam.biz> wrote
> >| WD 40 is $hit in a can.
> >
> > Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a
can :
> > it cannot loosen rusty bolts.
> >
> >
> WD-40 is good, but not as a lubricant or penetrant (unless
you have no real
> option available, then it's better than nothing in a
pinch). It works well
> for cleaning up oily tools, for getting wet ignitions
going, and leaves a
> nice smell on your hands; manly (sorry, Elle) and
pleasant.

Sure, if all a man wants around him is other manly
technicians.

I advise "Goop" or similar, followed by ordinary soap, then,
for men, cologne or aftershave. (Tip: Amazing how huggable
men are when the scent of even a little aftershave is in the
air--I'm not proud of it, but with enough aftershave, I'll
swoon even before men of a different political party
affiliation.)

Anything but that WD-40 (or PB Blaster, etc.) odor...

Brandy? Rav?

I've stopped bringing penetrating oils into the house for
even little cleanup jobs at the kitchen sink, because they
make the whole house reek for a day.

Happiest of New Years to all. Be safe, find peace.

 

Bernd Felsche wrote:
> Nate Nagel <njnagel@flycast.net> writes:
>
>>TE Cheah wrote:
>>
>>>| WD 40 is $hit in a can.
>>>
>>>Popular Mechanic's article says it's good, so I bought a can :
>>>it cannot loosen rusty bolts.
>
>
>>Probably because it's become "common knowledge" that it works; kind of
>>like "Budweiser is good beer."
>
>
> Budweiser is beer?

LOL. Reminds me of that joke about having sex in a canoe.

Ulf

 

SoCalMike wrote:
>
> « Paul » wrote:
> > If it were my car I would:
> > Not bother with any sort of solvent - IMO it's a waste of time.
> > 1) Knock the center of it down into the exhaust pipe.
> > 2) Use a hacksaw blade to saw slits into the remaining threads.
>
> if room permits, a sawzall would make quick work of that
>
> > 3) Knock the slit pieces into the exhaust pipe.
> > 4) Install new O2 sensor.

Yes. That never even dawned on me.
And I'm usually the first one to reach for my air or electric tools.