Found the problem.

The dealer came thru with a wiring diagram for an '88 civic wagon. Close
enough.
Like Ricky said in his post there are multiple fuses to ecu.
In the under dash fuse block, fuse 14 (I forget what it was labeled but it
wasnt obvious) was missing. I guess the previous owner had removed it and
didnt replace it.
It is control power for the main relay AND feeds injectors and fuel pump.
without main relay pulling in, no power was passed to ecu( from fuse 2).
replaced 15 amp fuse and got spark. for a few seconds anyway.
then fuse blew again.

Ended up being a shorted fuel pump

Thanks for all who responded.
Roy

"Roy and Rosa" <rbeaty@grandecom.net> wrote in message
news:10qqj6rqpg2ns24@corp.supernews.com...
> > > Yes. I have 12 volts to ground on hot side of fuse and no volts on
load
> > > side. ( with fuse pulled)
> > > volts on both sides with fuse in.
> > > I have checked all the simple stuff. I'm into the hard stuff now.
> > > thats why I need a diagram or pinout at ecu.
> > >
> > > should ecu flash anything on powerup ,or ignition on, even if ecu is
> > > good?
> > > see earlier post "89 civic HB, no spark, not main relay or ignitor"
> > > Roy
> > >
> > I don't have the pinout or wiring diagram, but I have a book on checking
> > codes for 1983-1995 import cars. (It was part of a $35 kit from Checker
> > Auto, which turns out to be a $30 book, a two dollar generic jumper tool
> and
> > a three dollar Toyota jumper tool.)
> >
> > For the '89 Civic, it confirms you don't need a tool or to do anything
> > special to see the codes. It says: "Access ECU (located on passenger
side
> > floorboard) by pulling back the carpet. Turn ignition on and observe LED
> on
> > ECU for codes. Codes blinked out by LED are separated by two second
pause,
> > then repeated. For example, 2 blinks - two second pause - 2 blinks =
code
> > 2." The diagram shows the ECU at the passenger's toes, but it sounds
like
> > you've already gotten that far. When you do get error codes, they are
> > cleared by removing fuse 30 for 10 seconds.
> >
> > However, the chart doesn't list a code for "no problem - working okay."
I
> > suppose you could unplug the crank angle sensor connector at the
> distributor
> > and you should see a code 8, but if you still don't what does that tell
> you?
> >
> > The next thing might be to check each pin on the ECU connector for
voltage
> > with the ignition off, and verify that it goes away when the fuse is
> pulled.
> > If you do have that, there should be at least one solid black wire on
the
> > connector (the same connector if there is more than one) and it should
ohm
> > to ground. It's really unusual for an ECU to fail like that unless it
got
> > wet or voltage spiked somehow.
> >
> > One more thing - are you sure that's the right fuse? 15 amps sounds like
a
> > pretty hefty fuse for the ECU. In the '90-93 Accord it is a 7.5 amp
fuse.
> (I
> > have a book for those models - in those models the power wire is a
> > white/yellow wire on pin D1; pin 1 of connector D.) The code book
suggests
> > it is fuse #30 in yours.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Heres the story. I am thinking of purchasing this car from a coworker
for
> my
> teenage son. I dont own it yet and it is not at my house. So it is not
> easy to
> work on at his house. I dont want to work TOO hard on "someone elses"
car.
> Digging thru wire bundles without a drawing would be too involved. He
> hasnt
> run it in about 6 months but was running when he parked it. He drove it
to
> work till he took over his wifes car when she got a new one.
>
> The ecu is under passenger carpet. the led is visible thru window but I
> have
> never seen it flash.
> I did remove connector to distributor and cranked car for about
> 30 seconds. no codes.
> I even unplugged connectors to ecu and plugged them back in. Still no
> flashes.
> The fuse I refered to is under the hood. there are 5 or 6 fuses (15 to 30
> amp)
> and 3 relay looking devices rated 50 amps or so. They may be some sort of
> breaker. It is labeled ECU 15 amp. I havent looked too hard at the fuse
> block
> under dash.
>
> I tried the local honda dealer for a diagram, but was told to check back
> tomorrow when the foreman was in. This dealer, the only one in town, is
> known for being customer UNfriendly. So I dont hold out much hope.
> Thats why Im trying the net. Always had good results from groups posts.
> Roy
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.786 / Virus Database: 532 - Release Date: 10/29/2004
>
>


---
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Found the problem.

The dealer came thru with a wiring diagram for an '88 civic wagon. Close
enough.
Like Ricky said in his post there are multiple fuses to ecu.
In the under dash fuse block, fuse 14 (I forget what it was labeled but it
wasnt obvious) was missing. I guess the previous owner had removed it and
didnt replace it.
It is control power for the main relay AND feeds injectors and fuel pump.
without main relay pulling in, no power was passed to ecu( from fuse 2).
replaced 15 amp fuse and got spark. for a few seconds anyway.
then fuse blew again.

Ended up being a shorted fuel pump

Thanks for all who responded.
Roy

"Roy and Rosa" <rbeaty@grandecom.net> wrote in message
news:10qqj6rqpg2ns24@corp.supernews.com...
> > > Yes. I have 12 volts to ground on hot side of fuse and no volts on
load
> > > side. ( with fuse pulled)
> > > volts on both sides with fuse in.
> > > I have checked all the simple stuff. I'm into the hard stuff now.
> > > thats why I need a diagram or pinout at ecu.
> > >
> > > should ecu flash anything on powerup ,or ignition on, even if ecu is
> > > good?
> > > see earlier post "89 civic HB, no spark, not main relay or ignitor"
> > > Roy
> > >
> > I don't have the pinout or wiring diagram, but I have a book on checking
> > codes for 1983-1995 import cars. (It was part of a $35 kit from Checker
> > Auto, which turns out to be a $30 book, a two dollar generic jumper tool
> and
> > a three dollar Toyota jumper tool.)
> >
> > For the '89 Civic, it confirms you don't need a tool or to do anything
> > special to see the codes. It says: "Access ECU (located on passenger
side
> > floorboard) by pulling back the carpet. Turn ignition on and observe LED
> on
> > ECU for codes. Codes blinked out by LED are separated by two second
pause,
> > then repeated. For example, 2 blinks - two second pause - 2 blinks =
code
> > 2." The diagram shows the ECU at the passenger's toes, but it sounds
like
> > you've already gotten that far. When you do get error codes, they are
> > cleared by removing fuse 30 for 10 seconds.
> >
> > However, the chart doesn't list a code for "no problem - working okay."
I
> > suppose you could unplug the crank angle sensor connector at the
> distributor
> > and you should see a code 8, but if you still don't what does that tell
> you?
> >
> > The next thing might be to check each pin on the ECU connector for
voltage
> > with the ignition off, and verify that it goes away when the fuse is
> pulled.
> > If you do have that, there should be at least one solid black wire on
the
> > connector (the same connector if there is more than one) and it should
ohm
> > to ground. It's really unusual for an ECU to fail like that unless it
got
> > wet or voltage spiked somehow.
> >
> > One more thing - are you sure that's the right fuse? 15 amps sounds like
a
> > pretty hefty fuse for the ECU. In the '90-93 Accord it is a 7.5 amp
fuse.
> (I
> > have a book for those models - in those models the power wire is a
> > white/yellow wire on pin D1; pin 1 of connector D.) The code book
suggests
> > it is fuse #30 in yours.
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
> > Heres the story. I am thinking of purchasing this car from a coworker
for
> my
> teenage son. I dont own it yet and it is not at my house. So it is not
> easy to
> work on at his house. I dont want to work TOO hard on "someone elses"
car.
> Digging thru wire bundles without a drawing would be too involved. He
> hasnt
> run it in about 6 months but was running when he parked it. He drove it
to
> work till he took over his wifes car when she got a new one.
>
> The ecu is under passenger carpet. the led is visible thru window but I
> have
> never seen it flash.
> I did remove connector to distributor and cranked car for about
> 30 seconds. no codes.
> I even unplugged connectors to ecu and plugged them back in. Still no
> flashes.
> The fuse I refered to is under the hood. there are 5 or 6 fuses (15 to 30
> amp)
> and 3 relay looking devices rated 50 amps or so. They may be some sort of
> breaker. It is labeled ECU 15 amp. I havent looked too hard at the fuse
> block
> under dash.
>
> I tried the local honda dealer for a diagram, but was told to check back
> tomorrow when the foreman was in. This dealer, the only one in town, is
> known for being customer UNfriendly. So I dont hold out much hope.
> Thats why Im trying the net. Always had good results from groups posts.
> Roy
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.786 / Virus Database: 532 - Release Date: 10/29/2004
>
>


---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.786 / Virus Database: 532 - Release Date: 10/29/2004