My Haynes manual says to turn the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to do a
valve adjustment. However, there is only maybe 3/4" of clearance (if that)
between the bolt and the wall of the car, and the pulley gets in the way.
There's no way you can get a ratchet and socket in there, and can't see
getting a box end wrench in, unless it's an offset one, with a bent handle
or something.

Anybody out there in Honda DIY land got an answer for me? What tool needed
for the job??

Frank

 

On 10/19/03 8:33 PM, in article OPGkb.1327$XO.172907@news20.bellglobal.com,
"Frank van Hoof" <thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> My Haynes manual says to turn the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to do a
> valve adjustment. However, there is only maybe 3/4" of clearance (if that)
> between the bolt and the wall of the car, and the pulley gets in the way.
> There's no way you can get a ratchet and socket in there, and can't see
> getting a box end wrench in, unless it's an offset one, with a bent handle
> or something.
>
> Anybody out there in Honda DIY land got an answer for me? What tool needed
> for the job??
>
> Frank
>
>
Every one I've seen has a circular cut out in the plastic fender well
directly in front of the crank bolt. You just put a long extension on the
socket and push it through. You might have to take off the wheel if you
can't get enough clearance by turning the steering wheel, but that should be
about it.

 

On 10/19/03 8:33 PM, in article OPGkb.1327$XO.172907@news20.bellglobal.com,
"Frank van Hoof" <thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> My Haynes manual says to turn the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to do a
> valve adjustment. However, there is only maybe 3/4" of clearance (if that)
> between the bolt and the wall of the car, and the pulley gets in the way.
> There's no way you can get a ratchet and socket in there, and can't see
> getting a box end wrench in, unless it's an offset one, with a bent handle
> or something.
>
> Anybody out there in Honda DIY land got an answer for me? What tool needed
> for the job??
>
> Frank
>
>
Every one I've seen has a circular cut out in the plastic fender well
directly in front of the crank bolt. You just put a long extension on the
socket and push it through. You might have to take off the wheel if you
can't get enough clearance by turning the steering wheel, but that should be
about it.

 

On 10/19/03 8:33 PM, in article OPGkb.1327$XO.172907@news20.bellglobal.com,
"Frank van Hoof" <thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> My Haynes manual says to turn the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to do a
> valve adjustment. However, there is only maybe 3/4" of clearance (if that)
> between the bolt and the wall of the car, and the pulley gets in the way.
> There's no way you can get a ratchet and socket in there, and can't see
> getting a box end wrench in, unless it's an offset one, with a bent handle
> or something.
>
> Anybody out there in Honda DIY land got an answer for me? What tool needed
> for the job??
>
> Frank
>
>
Every one I've seen has a circular cut out in the plastic fender well
directly in front of the crank bolt. You just put a long extension on the
socket and push it through. You might have to take off the wheel if you
can't get enough clearance by turning the steering wheel, but that should be
about it.

 

There's usually a hole in the fender that allows you to put a socket on the
crank pulley bolt. Note that there may be a rubber plug in the hole.

 

There's usually a hole in the fender that allows you to put a socket on the
crank pulley bolt. Note that there may be a rubber plug in the hole.

 

There's usually a hole in the fender that allows you to put a socket on the
crank pulley bolt. Note that there may be a rubber plug in the hole.

 

In article <OPGkb.1327$XO.172907@news20.bellglobal.com>, "Frank van Hoof"
<thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> My Haynes manual says to turn the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to do a
> valve adjustment. However, there is only maybe 3/4" of clearance (if that)
> between the bolt and the wall of the car, and the pulley gets in the way.
> There's no way you can get a ratchet and socket in there, and can't see
> getting a box end wrench in, unless it's an offset one, with a bent handle
> or something.
>
> Anybody out there in Honda DIY land got an answer for me? What tool needed
> for the job??
>
> Frank

The way I do my 95 is:

Remove the front wheel. Partially remove the black plastic splash shield
and let it hang down enough to access the pulley bolt. Use a 17mm deep
socket. You may want to pull the plugs to turn the crank more freely.
Inspect the plugs while you're at it.

BTW, if you're having a ticking noise that's not eliminated by adjusting
the valve lash, you may be hearing piston slap instead. As the weather is
getting colder the noise is more pronounced...HTH

--
Mike

 

In article <OPGkb.1327$XO.172907@news20.bellglobal.com>, "Frank van Hoof"
<thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> My Haynes manual says to turn the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to do a
> valve adjustment. However, there is only maybe 3/4" of clearance (if that)
> between the bolt and the wall of the car, and the pulley gets in the way.
> There's no way you can get a ratchet and socket in there, and can't see
> getting a box end wrench in, unless it's an offset one, with a bent handle
> or something.
>
> Anybody out there in Honda DIY land got an answer for me? What tool needed
> for the job??
>
> Frank

The way I do my 95 is:

Remove the front wheel. Partially remove the black plastic splash shield
and let it hang down enough to access the pulley bolt. Use a 17mm deep
socket. You may want to pull the plugs to turn the crank more freely.
Inspect the plugs while you're at it.

BTW, if you're having a ticking noise that's not eliminated by adjusting
the valve lash, you may be hearing piston slap instead. As the weather is
getting colder the noise is more pronounced...HTH

--
Mike

 

In article <OPGkb.1327$XO.172907@news20.bellglobal.com>, "Frank van Hoof"
<thehoofies@sympatico.ca> wrote:

> My Haynes manual says to turn the bolt on the end of the crankshaft to do a
> valve adjustment. However, there is only maybe 3/4" of clearance (if that)
> between the bolt and the wall of the car, and the pulley gets in the way.
> There's no way you can get a ratchet and socket in there, and can't see
> getting a box end wrench in, unless it's an offset one, with a bent handle
> or something.
>
> Anybody out there in Honda DIY land got an answer for me? What tool needed
> for the job??
>
> Frank

The way I do my 95 is:

Remove the front wheel. Partially remove the black plastic splash shield
and let it hang down enough to access the pulley bolt. Use a 17mm deep
socket. You may want to pull the plugs to turn the crank more freely.
Inspect the plugs while you're at it.

BTW, if you're having a ticking noise that's not eliminated by adjusting
the valve lash, you may be hearing piston slap instead. As the weather is
getting colder the noise is more pronounced...HTH

--
Mike

 

>>
>Every one I've seen has a circular cut out in the plastic fender well
>directly in front of the crank bolt. You just put a long extension on the
>socket and push it through. You might have to take off the wheel if you
>can't get enough clearance by turning the steering wheel, but that should be
>about it.

If your car has a MT, you can put it in high gear and move it. I suggest
NOT to do this on a hill!

 

>>
>Every one I've seen has a circular cut out in the plastic fender well
>directly in front of the crank bolt. You just put a long extension on the
>socket and push it through. You might have to take off the wheel if you
>can't get enough clearance by turning the steering wheel, but that should be
>about it.

If your car has a MT, you can put it in high gear and move it. I suggest
NOT to do this on a hill!

 

>>
>Every one I've seen has a circular cut out in the plastic fender well
>directly in front of the crank bolt. You just put a long extension on the
>socket and push it through. You might have to take off the wheel if you
>can't get enough clearance by turning the steering wheel, but that should be
>about it.

If your car has a MT, you can put it in high gear and move it. I suggest
NOT to do this on a hill!

 

"Bill Kapaun" <bkapaun@hotdeletemail.com> wrote in message
news:bkapaun-2010030055140001@dialup-ras18-129.eug.or.uspops.net...
>
> >>
> >Every one I've seen has a circular cut out in the plastic fender well
> >directly in front of the crank bolt. You just put a long extension on
the
> >socket and push it through. You might have to take off the wheel if you
> >can't get enough clearance by turning the steering wheel, but that should
be
> >about it.
>
> If your car has a MT, you can put it in high gear and move it. I suggest
> NOT to do this on a hill!

You must be from the old school. I used to bump my 280Z in 1976 that way to
adjust the valves, and the old British sports cars as well, unless you had a
hand crank. I recollect hand cranking a TR3s with bad starter in the 50s
that way. And, an XKE I had -- simply push it, jump in and hit 2nd gear.
You could do it by yourself. in fact. Ah memories.

 

"Bill Kapaun" <bkapaun@hotdeletemail.com> wrote in message
news:bkapaun-2010030055140001@dialup-ras18-129.eug.or.uspops.net...
>
> >>
> >Every one I've seen has a circular cut out in the plastic fender well
> >directly in front of the crank bolt. You just put a long extension on
the
> >socket and push it through. You might have to take off the wheel if you
> >can't get enough clearance by turning the steering wheel, but that should
be
> >about it.
>
> If your car has a MT, you can put it in high gear and move it. I suggest
> NOT to do this on a hill!

You must be from the old school. I used to bump my 280Z in 1976 that way to
adjust the valves, and the old British sports cars as well, unless you had a
hand crank. I recollect hand cranking a TR3s with bad starter in the 50s
that way. And, an XKE I had -- simply push it, jump in and hit 2nd gear.
You could do it by yourself. in fact. Ah memories.