Eightupman wrote:
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
> news:RMadnXMuOtz9TD3cRVn-gA@comcast.com...
>
>>Eightupman wrote:
>>
>>>get the surface of the head planed at a local shop especially if you did
>
> not
>
>>>take the bolts out in reverse order of torque sequence. You should also
>>>consider having the valves reseated, and magnafluxed to look for cracks.
>>
>>how do you magnaflux an alloy head?
>
>
>
> Glad you asked..with liquid penetrant materials and UV light.

good! your handle implies detroit iron - some of the mustang guys a
know, while sincere, are so stuck in that iron age, nothing else seeps
through. [pun intended].

>
> OK, your right, the word magnaflux is used incorrectly here, ,but the point
> was to get the machine shop to check it for cracks, and most laymen know the
> term magnaflux over LPI......any good machine shop will have the LPI
> chemicals.
>
> Liquid Penetrant Inspection
>
> "LPI Inspection is a non-destructive test method that uses an oil-based
> chemical solution of dye, visible or fluorescent, capable of migration in
> surface openings. It is used to locate cracks in ferrous or non-ferrous
> materials, as well as some ceramics and plastics Read FAQ
>
> Applications - Detecting surface flaws in non-porous parts. Typically used
> in aerospace, castings, forgings, automotive, leak testing, general metal
> work, power plants, etc."
>
> Above taken from http://www.magnaflux.com/products/overview.stm
>
> The small kit is CHEAP (ie, $12.00 on Ebay) for the serious DIY guys/gals
>
> This kit would have saved me from installing a used cracked head on a BMW
> 325 a few years ago. Once the head was cleaned and dipped (the British guy
> used a weak solution of Traffic Film Remover or TFR) that worked better to
> clean alloy that I have EVER seen) the crack was invisible to our naked
> eye. Only after it got hot did the crack expand enough to cause a leak. We
> didn't catch the crack that ran right along parallel underneath the
> camshaft. I'll never make that mistake again.
>
> Hope this is useful.........
>
> Eightupman
>

 

> >
> > Glad you asked..with liquid penetrant materials and UV light.
>
> good! your handle implies detroit iron - some of the mustang guys a
> know, while sincere, are so stuck in that iron age, nothing else seeps
> through. [pun intended].
>

Well the handle has nothing to do with cars actually...but it does fit. I
AM in fact a muscle car guy (Chevy to be exact)at heart, BUT also know that
unless you are doing an out and out resto, that is not where the current
repairs are taking place. Sadly (for Honda) I have done my fair share of
Honda work, probably to a ratio of 2-1 vice any other make or model. That
COULD be due to the sheer volume of Hondas onthe US roadways, OR they do in
fact break down just as much as other cars. I am a firm beliver that the
DRIVER is at least 50% to blame for failures...not doing periodic maintence
for example.....

 

> >
> > Glad you asked..with liquid penetrant materials and UV light.
>
> good! your handle implies detroit iron - some of the mustang guys a
> know, while sincere, are so stuck in that iron age, nothing else seeps
> through. [pun intended].
>

Well the handle has nothing to do with cars actually...but it does fit. I
AM in fact a muscle car guy (Chevy to be exact)at heart, BUT also know that
unless you are doing an out and out resto, that is not where the current
repairs are taking place. Sadly (for Honda) I have done my fair share of
Honda work, probably to a ratio of 2-1 vice any other make or model. That
COULD be due to the sheer volume of Hondas onthe US roadways, OR they do in
fact break down just as much as other cars. I am a firm beliver that the
DRIVER is at least 50% to blame for failures...not doing periodic maintence
for example.....