I have a 2001 with disc brakes on the front. I have done similar brakes on
an Altima I used to have. I think I got the wheel off the Odyssey last year
and realized the pads were still good, but also that I might need a larger
C-Clamp tool than the one I had in order to push the caliper assembly back
to its widest position to actually to the removal.

Can anyone here who's done this procedure alert me to any gotcha's before I
proceed? Any special tools or techniques?

Thanks!
Be

 

On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 21:28:38 GMT, BE <n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

>I have a 2001 with disc brakes on the front. I have done similar brakes on
>an Altima I used to have. I think I got the wheel off the Odyssey last year
>and realized the pads were still good, but also that I might need a larger
>C-Clamp tool than the one I had in order to push the caliper assembly back
>to its widest position to actually to the removal.

GEt the biger clamp anyway - if you need it, you need it, if you
don't, you've just got to make 20-odd extra turns.

>
>Can anyone here who's done this procedure alert me to any gotcha's before I
>proceed? Any special tools or techniques?
>
>Thanks!
>Be

 

"BE" <n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:BF3CDCB4.36F43%n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net.. .
>I have a 2001 with disc brakes on the front. I have done similar brakes on
> an Altima I used to have. I think I got the wheel off the Odyssey last
> year
> and realized the pads were still good, but also that I might need a larger
> C-Clamp tool than the one I had in order to push the caliper assembly back
> to its widest position to actually to the removal.
>
> Can anyone here who's done this procedure alert me to any gotcha's before
> I
> proceed? Any special tools or techniques?
>
> Thanks!
> Be
>
The calipers shouldn't have to be far to do the removal; if so, the
ridge on the rotor is excessive. That sometimes means a new rotor is in
order, but not always.

I prefer to put a bleeder hose on the caliper nipple and open the bleeder a
half turn or so before ing the caliper - you can close the bleeder and
remove the hose until it's time to push the piston all the way in. Without
that bleed hose, the preferred place for the displaced fluid to go is (1) to
the other caliper, if it is already off, or (2) back into the reservoir.
That's not a cheery prospect, especially if the fluid has been topped up to
compensate for loss as the pads wore, because sooner or later the reservoir
is likely to overflow. Yuck! In addition, doing it that way can greatly
reduce the force to the caliper. I've more than a few by
tipping the caliper with my hands when the bleeder is open.

BTW - if the caliper is a floating type (doesn't have hydraulic passages to
the outside of the caliper) it is *mandatory* to clean and lubricate the
slide pins with disc brake grease before reassembling. I was in la-la land a
couple of times and didn't do that. Twice I was right back in the calipers
to correct my oversight when the brakes went loco. I think being disturbed
may be the last straw for slide pins that were running dry. Anyway, see
http://tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
That describes it as being specific to rust-prone cold weather areas, but my
foibles were in Phoenix. I recommend you read and heed the whole web page to
save yourself anguish.

Otherwise, you are good to go!

Mike

 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in
news:1OOdnThZE9uRG4reRVn-hQ@sedona.net:

> "BE" <n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:BF3CDCB4.36F43%n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net.. .
>>I have a 2001 with disc brakes on the front. I have done similar
>>brakes on
>> an Altima I used to have. I think I got the wheel off the Odyssey
>> last year
>> and realized the pads were still good, but also that I might need a
>> larger C-Clamp tool than the one I had in order to push the caliper
>> assembly back to its widest position to actually to the removal.
>>
>> Can anyone here who's done this procedure alert me to any gotcha's
>> before I
>> proceed? Any special tools or techniques?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Be
>>
> The calipers shouldn't have to be far to do the removal;


Up here in my neck of the woods, it's common for neglected brakes to refuse
to allow the caliper to be pulled off. This is because the caliper has
become rusted to the pads and shims.

If that's the case, a nylon hammer can be used to persuade the caliper to
come off the pads, which is all I ever do.


> if so,
> the ridge on the rotor is excessive.


The ridge thing is something that affects drums, not discs.



--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

TeGGeR® wrote:

>>if so,
>>the ridge on the rotor is excessive.
>
>
>
> The ridge thing is something that affects drums, not discs.

I've seen a pretty severe ridge on a rotor before... '83 Chevette, IIRC.
Had to pry the pads open by wedging a long, large slot screwdriver
beween the outer pad and the disc before I could pull the caliper off.


---
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Virus Database (VPS): 0535-3, 09/02/2005
Tested on: 9/3/2005 11:50:22 PM
avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2005 ALWIL Software.
http://www.avast.com

 

Matt Ion <soundy@moltenimage.com> wrote in
news:UOwSe.368075$s54.99335@pd7tw2no:

> TeGGeR® wrote:
>
>>>if so,
>>>the ridge on the rotor is excessive.
>>
>>
>>
>> The ridge thing is something that affects drums, not discs.
>
> I've seen a pretty severe ridge on a rotor before... '83 Chevette, IIRC.
> Had to pry the pads open by wedging a long, large slot screwdriver
> beween the outer pad and the disc before I could pull the caliper off.
>
>


Then the system must be set up to attach the pads to the caliper, as in
some Ford products. Honda does not do it this way.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

TeGGeR® wrote:
> Matt Ion <soundy@moltenimage.com> wrote in
> news:UOwSe.368075$s54.99335@pd7tw2no:
>
>
>>TeGGeR® wrote:
>>
>>
>>>>if so,
>>>>the ridge on the rotor is excessive.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>The ridge thing is something that affects drums, not discs.
>>
>>I've seen a pretty severe ridge on a rotor before... '83 Chevette, IIRC.
>> Had to pry the pads open by wedging a long, large slot screwdriver
>>beween the outer pad and the disc before I could pull the caliper off.
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Then the system must be set up to attach the pads to the caliper, as in
> some Ford products. Honda does not do it this way.

Big-*** spring clips that fit inside the piston and into holes on the
backplate on the opposite side of the caliper.

FWIW, the way the pads clip in on my '87 Accord would make them very
difficult if not impossible to slide out if there were ridges on the
edge of the rotor.


---
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Virus Database (VPS): 0535-3, 09/02/2005
Tested on: 9/4/2005 4:39:36 PM
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http://www.avast.com

 

The accepted way per ASE is as you described it.


--
Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://www.troublecodes.net/




"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
news:1OOdnThZE9uRG4reRVn-hQ@sedona.net...
> "BE" <n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:BF3CDCB4.36F43%n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net.. .
>>I have a 2001 with disc brakes on the front. I have done similar brakes on
>> an Altima I used to have. I think I got the wheel off the Odyssey last
>> year
>> and realized the pads were still good, but also that I might need a
>> larger
>> C-Clamp tool than the one I had in order to push the caliper assembly
>> back
>> to its widest position to actually to the removal.
>>
>> Can anyone here who's done this procedure alert me to any gotcha's before
>> I
>> proceed? Any special tools or techniques?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Be
>>
> The calipers shouldn't have to be far to do the removal; if so, the
> ridge on the rotor is excessive. That sometimes means a new rotor is in
> order, but not always.
>
> I prefer to put a bleeder hose on the caliper nipple and open the bleeder
> a half turn or so before ing the caliper - you can close the bleeder
> and remove the hose until it's time to push the piston all the way in.
> Without that bleed hose, the preferred place for the displaced fluid to go
> is (1) to the other caliper, if it is already off, or (2) back into the
> reservoir. That's not a cheery prospect, especially if the fluid has been
> topped up to compensate for loss as the pads wore, because sooner or later
> the reservoir is likely to overflow. Yuck! In addition, doing it that way
> can greatly reduce the force to the caliper. I've more than
> a few by tipping the caliper with my hands when the bleeder is open.
>
> BTW - if the caliper is a floating type (doesn't have hydraulic passages
> to the outside of the caliper) it is *mandatory* to clean and lubricate
> the slide pins with disc brake grease before reassembling. I was in la-la
> land a couple of times and didn't do that. Twice I was right back in the
> calipers to correct my oversight when the brakes went loco. I think being
> disturbed may be the last straw for slide pins that were running dry.
> Anyway, see http://tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
> That describes it as being specific to rust-prone cold weather areas, but
> my foibles were in Phoenix. I recommend you read and heed the whole web
> page to save yourself anguish.
>
> Otherwise, you are good to go!
>
> Mike
>

 

Job done.

I replaced the pads with some ceramic ones sold by Auto Zone that have a
lifetime warranty. If/when they wear out, they will replace them again and
again. I liked that they had their own shims attached to the sides.

OK - here are the two basic gotchas as I found them:

1) there is a bolt that gives access only to an unusually narrow-necked open
end wrench. Your basic craftsman adjustable wrench is too thick, as are
many stock wrenches. It needs to be held in place while another bolt is
loosened further back.

2) the two bolt-headed pins that have the rubber skirts on them are not the
same. The one on the bottom has an additional ridged rubber shank that is
part of the overall shank. The one on the top is all metal. Take note which
one is which as you remove them, so that you put them back correctly.

BTW, after doing this I would deeply assume that any of those brake job
places you might go to would skip the steps of removing those bolt-headed
pins, cleaning off the old grease and applying new, and hand-washing (then
drying) the rubber skirts. My guess is that they will just slap the pads in
and not fuss over these items.

The weirdness I discovered on this job was that the passenger-side pads had
1/8 inch wear left; the driver-side pads were down to the warning metal.
These were the original factory pads; the car has 36K miles. Why would there
be such a difference in the wear? Is there something else I need to check?

Be


On 9/1/05 5:51 PM, in article 1OOdnThZE9uRG4reRVn-hQ@sedona.net, "Michael
Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote:

> "BE" <n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:BF3CDCB4.36F43%n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net.. .
>> I have a 2001 with disc brakes on the front. I have done similar brakes on
>> an Altima I used to have. I think I got the wheel off the Odyssey last
>> year
>> and realized the pads were still good, but also that I might need a larger
>> C-Clamp tool than the one I had in order to push the caliper assembly back
>> to its widest position to actually to the removal.
>>
>> Can anyone here who's done this procedure alert me to any gotcha's before
>> I
>> proceed? Any special tools or techniques?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Be
>>
> The calipers shouldn't have to be far to do the removal; if so, the
> ridge on the rotor is excessive. That sometimes means a new rotor is in
> order, but not always.
>
> I prefer to put a bleeder hose on the caliper nipple and open the bleeder a
> half turn or so before ing the caliper - you can close the bleeder and
> remove the hose until it's time to push the piston all the way in. Without
> that bleed hose, the preferred place for the displaced fluid to go is (1) to
> the other caliper, if it is already off, or (2) back into the reservoir.
> That's not a cheery prospect, especially if the fluid has been topped up to
> compensate for loss as the pads wore, because sooner or later the reservoir
> is likely to overflow. Yuck! In addition, doing it that way can greatly
> reduce the force to the caliper. I've more than a few by
> tipping the caliper with my hands when the bleeder is open.
>
> BTW - if the caliper is a floating type (doesn't have hydraulic passages to
> the outside of the caliper) it is *mandatory* to clean and lubricate the
> slide pins with disc brake grease before reassembling. I was in la-la land a
> couple of times and didn't do that. Twice I was right back in the calipers
> to correct my oversight when the brakes went loco. I think being disturbed
> may be the last straw for slide pins that were running dry. Anyway, see
> http://tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html
> That describes it as being specific to rust-prone cold weather areas, but my
> foibles were in Phoenix. I recommend you read and heed the whole web page to
> save yourself anguish.
>
> Otherwise, you are good to go!
>
> Mike
>
>

 

On Mon, 05 Sep 2005 15:30:14 GMT, BE <n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net>
wrote:

<snip>
>
>The weirdness I discovered on this job was that the passenger-side pads had
>1/8 inch wear left; the driver-side pads were down to the warning metal.
>These were the original factory pads; the car has 36K miles. Why would there
>be such a difference in the wear? Is there something else I need to check?
>
>Be
>

Gee, just a guess, but could it be that you have a driver in there all
the time, but passengers only some of it. Tus the drivers side takes
more
OR
the passenger side circuit has a tad [more?] air in than the other
side
OR
you brake more when turning right than you do when turning left.
OR
the passenger side caliper doesn't move as freely as the drivers side
OR
many other posible reasons.

lots of different reasosn, i'm sure if you think about it, you can
come with othres, even down to 'the passengers pad being ever so
slightly harder, either at one point, or throughout, than the other'.
I've tried to stick with the more plausable ones though.

 

"BE" <n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:BF41CEB4.376DB%n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net.. .
>
> BTW, after doing this I would deeply assume that any of those brake job
> places you might go to would skip the steps of removing those bolt-headed
> pins, cleaning off the old grease and applying new, and hand-washing (then
> drying) the rubber skirts. My guess is that they will just slap the pads
> in
> and not fuss over these items.
>
> The weirdness I discovered on this job was that the passenger-side pads
> had
> 1/8 inch wear left; the driver-side pads were down to the warning metal.
> These were the original factory pads; the car has 36K miles. Why would
> there
> be such a difference in the wear? Is there something else I need to check?
>
> Be

Sounds like the previous time somebody skipped the steps... since it was
original, it probably came from the factory poorly lubricated. A Toyota tech
in the Yahoo Prius group warned me he's seen brakes come through completely
dry of lubricant and legend has it that isn't unique to Toyota.

When the slide pins bind the caliper no longer floats freely and the pads
wear oddly (and always more quickly). In any event, that is a strong
indication of the slide pins binding on the driver side. I don't know of
anything else that will do that.

Mike

 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in
news:94-dnaZFvLnRa4DeRVn-2A@sedona.net:

> "BE" <n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:BF41CEB4.376DB%n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net.. .
>>
>> BTW, after doing this I would deeply assume that any of those brake
>> job places you might go to would skip the steps of removing those
>> bolt-headed pins, cleaning off the old grease and applying new, and
>> hand-washing (then drying) the rubber skirts. My guess is that they
>> will just slap the pads in
>> and not fuss over these items.
>>
>> The weirdness I discovered on this job was that the passenger-side
>> pads had
>> 1/8 inch wear left; the driver-side pads were down to the warning
>> metal. These were the original factory pads; the car has 36K miles.
>> Why would there
>> be such a difference in the wear? Is there something else I need to
>> check?
>>
>> Be
>
> Sounds like the previous time somebody skipped the steps... since it
> was original, it probably came from the factory poorly lubricated. A
> Toyota tech in the Yahoo Prius group warned me he's seen brakes come
> through completely dry of lubricant and legend has it that isn't
> unique to Toyota.
>
> When the slide pins bind the caliper no longer floats freely and the
> pads wear oddly (and always more quickly). In any event, that is a
> strong indication of the slide pins binding on the driver side. I
> don't know of anything else that will do that.
>


Caliper piston seizing. This is common.


--
TeGGeR®

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

"TeGGeR®" <tegger@tegger.c0m> wrote in message
news:Xns96C9A6D186A73tegger@207.14.113.17...
> "Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in
> news:94-dnaZFvLnRa4DeRVn-2A@sedona.net:
>
>> "BE" <n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
>> news:BF41CEB4.376DB%n3wsr3ad3r_|@|_sbcglobal.net.. .
>>>
>>> BTW, after doing this I would deeply assume that any of those brake
>>> job places you might go to would skip the steps of removing those
>>> bolt-headed pins, cleaning off the old grease and applying new, and
>>> hand-washing (then drying) the rubber skirts. My guess is that they
>>> will just slap the pads in
>>> and not fuss over these items.
>>>
>>> The weirdness I discovered on this job was that the passenger-side
>>> pads had
>>> 1/8 inch wear left; the driver-side pads were down to the warning
>>> metal. These were the original factory pads; the car has 36K miles.
>>> Why would there
>>> be such a difference in the wear? Is there something else I need to
>>> check?
>>>
>>> Be
>>
>> Sounds like the previous time somebody skipped the steps... since it
>> was original, it probably came from the factory poorly lubricated. A
>> Toyota tech in the Yahoo Prius group warned me he's seen brakes come
>> through completely dry of lubricant and legend has it that isn't
>> unique to Toyota.
>>
>> When the slide pins bind the caliper no longer floats freely and the
>> pads wear oddly (and always more quickly). In any event, that is a
>> strong indication of the slide pins binding on the driver side. I
>> don't know of anything else that will do that.
>>
>
>
> Caliper piston seizing. This is common.
>
>
> --
> TeGGeR®
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

Or... that could do it.

Mike