WD40 plus a single sided razor did the trick. I still sanded the surface
the best I could and cleaned it with a rag. Placed a new gasket, the EFE
heater, a new o-ring and then the carburetor.

Now the engine starts but dies immediately. I checked the accelerator pump
and it appears to be working; pressing the accelerator causes a stream of
gasoline to enter the carburetor. You can see gasoline through the float
level inspection window. The accelerator pump diaphram was one of the parts
that I replaced when I bought a new carburetor kit. I suspect a small
gasoline leak at the pump because the area seemed a little "wet" after I
turned off the engine.

I suspect a vacuum leak right at the gasket. I torqued the carburetor
mounting nuts to 15ft/lbs. I've heard that sometimes the EFE heaters can
warp causing leaks... that or I really messed up the intake manifold
surface. Can I use hi-temperature gasket sealant?

Thanks for your replies.

MC
---

"meto" <derbender@att.net> wrote in message
news:m4Tub.86180$Ec1.4254729@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> I find that a single sided razor blade did the trick with my water pump on
> another make of car, (with a lot of work). Make sure it's a new blade. I
> would try this in conjuction with the WD40 idea. Plan on 30-40 minutes of
> hard labor. Be careful not to scratch up the metal of the carburetor.
> Otherwise use a light grade of sandpaper to smooth out any MINOR nicks in
> the metal that you may add.
>
>
> "Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:SzBub.430853$9l5.352701@pd7tw2no...
> > Hi,
> > Tried WD40 spray? It is actually solvent. Soak it with WD40 and try.
> > Tony
> >
> > MC wrote:
> >
> > > I did some work on my car's carburetor (Accord '87 LX) and now it's
time
> to
> > > put it back on. But the gasket between the intake manifold and the
EFE
> > > heater won't come off... It just won't. No way.
> > >
> > > That gasket says it's been there since 1987 and there's no power on
this
> > > earth that's going to take it off...
> > >
> > > I went out and bought some gasket remover, sprayed it on, waited,
> scrubbed
> > > it, etc, etc, but no. The gasket laughed right at my face. In the
> > > process, I have even made a few minor scratches and I'm afraid that
> > > continuing may create even more scratches and damage the surface to
the
> > > point that the seal will be compromised, no matter how much torque I
> apply
> > > when installing the carburetor.
> > >
> > > How can I take what's left of the gasket off?
> > >
> > > MC
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

 

WD40 plus a single sided razor did the trick. I still sanded the surface
the best I could and cleaned it with a rag. Placed a new gasket, the EFE
heater, a new o-ring and then the carburetor.

Now the engine starts but dies immediately. I checked the accelerator pump
and it appears to be working; pressing the accelerator causes a stream of
gasoline to enter the carburetor. You can see gasoline through the float
level inspection window. The accelerator pump diaphram was one of the parts
that I replaced when I bought a new carburetor kit. I suspect a small
gasoline leak at the pump because the area seemed a little "wet" after I
turned off the engine.

I suspect a vacuum leak right at the gasket. I torqued the carburetor
mounting nuts to 15ft/lbs. I've heard that sometimes the EFE heaters can
warp causing leaks... that or I really messed up the intake manifold
surface. Can I use hi-temperature gasket sealant?

Thanks for your replies.

MC
---

"meto" <derbender@att.net> wrote in message
news:m4Tub.86180$Ec1.4254729@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> I find that a single sided razor blade did the trick with my water pump on
> another make of car, (with a lot of work). Make sure it's a new blade. I
> would try this in conjuction with the WD40 idea. Plan on 30-40 minutes of
> hard labor. Be careful not to scratch up the metal of the carburetor.
> Otherwise use a light grade of sandpaper to smooth out any MINOR nicks in
> the metal that you may add.
>
>
> "Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> news:SzBub.430853$9l5.352701@pd7tw2no...
> > Hi,
> > Tried WD40 spray? It is actually solvent. Soak it with WD40 and try.
> > Tony
> >
> > MC wrote:
> >
> > > I did some work on my car's carburetor (Accord '87 LX) and now it's
time
> to
> > > put it back on. But the gasket between the intake manifold and the
EFE
> > > heater won't come off... It just won't. No way.
> > >
> > > That gasket says it's been there since 1987 and there's no power on
this
> > > earth that's going to take it off...
> > >
> > > I went out and bought some gasket remover, sprayed it on, waited,
> scrubbed
> > > it, etc, etc, but no. The gasket laughed right at my face. In the
> > > process, I have even made a few minor scratches and I'm afraid that
> > > continuing may create even more scratches and damage the surface to
the
> > > point that the seal will be compromised, no matter how much torque I
> apply
> > > when installing the carburetor.
> > >
> > > How can I take what's left of the gasket off?
> > >
> > > MC
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>

 

Hi,
Even if you pump the pedal, engine dies? Is fuel pump known to work OK?
Finer than sand paper is emery stone.
There is gasket sealant(or so called gaksket maker) you can use.
if you think there is vacuum leak, spray WD40 genrerously around the
suspect spot. RPM will pick up when you hit it right.
Just minute, you said engine keeps dying, then this test is no good yet.
Tony


MC wrote:

> WD40 plus a single sided razor did the trick. I still sanded the surface
> the best I could and cleaned it with a rag. Placed a new gasket, the EFE
> heater, a new o-ring and then the carburetor.
>
> Now the engine starts but dies immediately. I checked the accelerator pump
> and it appears to be working; pressing the accelerator causes a stream of
> gasoline to enter the carburetor. You can see gasoline through the float
> level inspection window. The accelerator pump diaphram was one of the parts
> that I replaced when I bought a new carburetor kit. I suspect a small
> gasoline leak at the pump because the area seemed a little "wet" after I
> turned off the engine.
>
> I suspect a vacuum leak right at the gasket. I torqued the carburetor
> mounting nuts to 15ft/lbs. I've heard that sometimes the EFE heaters can
> warp causing leaks... that or I really messed up the intake manifold
> surface. Can I use hi-temperature gasket sealant?
>
> Thanks for your replies.
>
> MC
> ---
>
> "meto" <derbender@att.net> wrote in message
> news:m4Tub.86180$Ec1.4254729@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>
>>I find that a single sided razor blade did the trick with my water pump on
>>another make of car, (with a lot of work). Make sure it's a new blade. I
>>would try this in conjuction with the WD40 idea. Plan on 30-40 minutes of
>>hard labor. Be careful not to scratch up the metal of the carburetor.
>>Otherwise use a light grade of sandpaper to smooth out any MINOR nicks in
>>the metal that you may add.
>>
>>
>>"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
>>news:SzBub.430853$9l5.352701@pd7tw2no...
>>
>>>Hi,
>>>Tried WD40 spray? It is actually solvent. Soak it with WD40 and try.
>>>Tony
>>>
>>>MC wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I did some work on my car's carburetor (Accord '87 LX) and now it's
>
> time
>
>>to
>>
>>>>put it back on. But the gasket between the intake manifold and the
>
> EFE
>
>>>>heater won't come off... It just won't. No way.
>>>>
>>>>That gasket says it's been there since 1987 and there's no power on
>
> this
>
>>>>earth that's going to take it off...
>>>>
>>>>I went out and bought some gasket remover, sprayed it on, waited,
>>
>>scrubbed
>>
>>>>it, etc, etc, but no. The gasket laughed right at my face. In the
>>>>process, I have even made a few minor scratches and I'm afraid that
>>>>continuing may create even more scratches and damage the surface to
>
> the
>
>>>>point that the seal will be compromised, no matter how much torque I
>>
>>apply
>>
>>>>when installing the carburetor.
>>>>
>>>>How can I take what's left of the gasket off?
>>>>
>>>>MC
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>
>

 

Hi,
Even if you pump the pedal, engine dies? Is fuel pump known to work OK?
Finer than sand paper is emery stone.
There is gasket sealant(or so called gaksket maker) you can use.
if you think there is vacuum leak, spray WD40 genrerously around the
suspect spot. RPM will pick up when you hit it right.
Just minute, you said engine keeps dying, then this test is no good yet.
Tony


MC wrote:

> WD40 plus a single sided razor did the trick. I still sanded the surface
> the best I could and cleaned it with a rag. Placed a new gasket, the EFE
> heater, a new o-ring and then the carburetor.
>
> Now the engine starts but dies immediately. I checked the accelerator pump
> and it appears to be working; pressing the accelerator causes a stream of
> gasoline to enter the carburetor. You can see gasoline through the float
> level inspection window. The accelerator pump diaphram was one of the parts
> that I replaced when I bought a new carburetor kit. I suspect a small
> gasoline leak at the pump because the area seemed a little "wet" after I
> turned off the engine.
>
> I suspect a vacuum leak right at the gasket. I torqued the carburetor
> mounting nuts to 15ft/lbs. I've heard that sometimes the EFE heaters can
> warp causing leaks... that or I really messed up the intake manifold
> surface. Can I use hi-temperature gasket sealant?
>
> Thanks for your replies.
>
> MC
> ---
>
> "meto" <derbender@att.net> wrote in message
> news:m4Tub.86180$Ec1.4254729@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>
>>I find that a single sided razor blade did the trick with my water pump on
>>another make of car, (with a lot of work). Make sure it's a new blade. I
>>would try this in conjuction with the WD40 idea. Plan on 30-40 minutes of
>>hard labor. Be careful not to scratch up the metal of the carburetor.
>>Otherwise use a light grade of sandpaper to smooth out any MINOR nicks in
>>the metal that you may add.
>>
>>
>>"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
>>news:SzBub.430853$9l5.352701@pd7tw2no...
>>
>>>Hi,
>>>Tried WD40 spray? It is actually solvent. Soak it with WD40 and try.
>>>Tony
>>>
>>>MC wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I did some work on my car's carburetor (Accord '87 LX) and now it's
>
> time
>
>>to
>>
>>>>put it back on. But the gasket between the intake manifold and the
>
> EFE
>
>>>>heater won't come off... It just won't. No way.
>>>>
>>>>That gasket says it's been there since 1987 and there's no power on
>
> this
>
>>>>earth that's going to take it off...
>>>>
>>>>I went out and bought some gasket remover, sprayed it on, waited,
>>
>>scrubbed
>>
>>>>it, etc, etc, but no. The gasket laughed right at my face. In the
>>>>process, I have even made a few minor scratches and I'm afraid that
>>>>continuing may create even more scratches and damage the surface to
>
> the
>
>>>>point that the seal will be compromised, no matter how much torque I
>>
>>apply
>>
>>>>when installing the carburetor.
>>>>
>>>>How can I take what's left of the gasket off?
>>>>
>>>>MC
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>
>

 

Hi,
Even if you pump the pedal, engine dies? Is fuel pump known to work OK?
Finer than sand paper is emery stone.
There is gasket sealant(or so called gaksket maker) you can use.
if you think there is vacuum leak, spray WD40 genrerously around the
suspect spot. RPM will pick up when you hit it right.
Just minute, you said engine keeps dying, then this test is no good yet.
Tony


MC wrote:

> WD40 plus a single sided razor did the trick. I still sanded the surface
> the best I could and cleaned it with a rag. Placed a new gasket, the EFE
> heater, a new o-ring and then the carburetor.
>
> Now the engine starts but dies immediately. I checked the accelerator pump
> and it appears to be working; pressing the accelerator causes a stream of
> gasoline to enter the carburetor. You can see gasoline through the float
> level inspection window. The accelerator pump diaphram was one of the parts
> that I replaced when I bought a new carburetor kit. I suspect a small
> gasoline leak at the pump because the area seemed a little "wet" after I
> turned off the engine.
>
> I suspect a vacuum leak right at the gasket. I torqued the carburetor
> mounting nuts to 15ft/lbs. I've heard that sometimes the EFE heaters can
> warp causing leaks... that or I really messed up the intake manifold
> surface. Can I use hi-temperature gasket sealant?
>
> Thanks for your replies.
>
> MC
> ---
>
> "meto" <derbender@att.net> wrote in message
> news:m4Tub.86180$Ec1.4254729@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>
>>I find that a single sided razor blade did the trick with my water pump on
>>another make of car, (with a lot of work). Make sure it's a new blade. I
>>would try this in conjuction with the WD40 idea. Plan on 30-40 minutes of
>>hard labor. Be careful not to scratch up the metal of the carburetor.
>>Otherwise use a light grade of sandpaper to smooth out any MINOR nicks in
>>the metal that you may add.
>>
>>
>>"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
>>news:SzBub.430853$9l5.352701@pd7tw2no...
>>
>>>Hi,
>>>Tried WD40 spray? It is actually solvent. Soak it with WD40 and try.
>>>Tony
>>>
>>>MC wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I did some work on my car's carburetor (Accord '87 LX) and now it's
>
> time
>
>>to
>>
>>>>put it back on. But the gasket between the intake manifold and the
>
> EFE
>
>>>>heater won't come off... It just won't. No way.
>>>>
>>>>That gasket says it's been there since 1987 and there's no power on
>
> this
>
>>>>earth that's going to take it off...
>>>>
>>>>I went out and bought some gasket remover, sprayed it on, waited,
>>
>>scrubbed
>>
>>>>it, etc, etc, but no. The gasket laughed right at my face. In the
>>>>process, I have even made a few minor scratches and I'm afraid that
>>>>continuing may create even more scratches and damage the surface to
>
> the
>
>>>>point that the seal will be compromised, no matter how much torque I
>>
>>apply
>>
>>>>when installing the carburetor.
>>>>
>>>>How can I take what's left of the gasket off?
>>>>
>>>>MC
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>
>

 

Hi,
Even if you pump the pedal, engine dies? Is fuel pump known to work OK?
Finer than sand paper is emery stone.
There is gasket sealant(or so called gaksket maker) you can use.
if you think there is vacuum leak, spray WD40 genrerously around the
suspect spot. RPM will pick up when you hit it right.
Just minute, you said engine keeps dying, then this test is no good yet.
Tony


MC wrote:

> WD40 plus a single sided razor did the trick. I still sanded the surface
> the best I could and cleaned it with a rag. Placed a new gasket, the EFE
> heater, a new o-ring and then the carburetor.
>
> Now the engine starts but dies immediately. I checked the accelerator pump
> and it appears to be working; pressing the accelerator causes a stream of
> gasoline to enter the carburetor. You can see gasoline through the float
> level inspection window. The accelerator pump diaphram was one of the parts
> that I replaced when I bought a new carburetor kit. I suspect a small
> gasoline leak at the pump because the area seemed a little "wet" after I
> turned off the engine.
>
> I suspect a vacuum leak right at the gasket. I torqued the carburetor
> mounting nuts to 15ft/lbs. I've heard that sometimes the EFE heaters can
> warp causing leaks... that or I really messed up the intake manifold
> surface. Can I use hi-temperature gasket sealant?
>
> Thanks for your replies.
>
> MC
> ---
>
> "meto" <derbender@att.net> wrote in message
> news:m4Tub.86180$Ec1.4254729@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>
>>I find that a single sided razor blade did the trick with my water pump on
>>another make of car, (with a lot of work). Make sure it's a new blade. I
>>would try this in conjuction with the WD40 idea. Plan on 30-40 minutes of
>>hard labor. Be careful not to scratch up the metal of the carburetor.
>>Otherwise use a light grade of sandpaper to smooth out any MINOR nicks in
>>the metal that you may add.
>>
>>
>>"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
>>news:SzBub.430853$9l5.352701@pd7tw2no...
>>
>>>Hi,
>>>Tried WD40 spray? It is actually solvent. Soak it with WD40 and try.
>>>Tony
>>>
>>>MC wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>I did some work on my car's carburetor (Accord '87 LX) and now it's
>
> time
>
>>to
>>
>>>>put it back on. But the gasket between the intake manifold and the
>
> EFE
>
>>>>heater won't come off... It just won't. No way.
>>>>
>>>>That gasket says it's been there since 1987 and there's no power on
>
> this
>
>>>>earth that's going to take it off...
>>>>
>>>>I went out and bought some gasket remover, sprayed it on, waited,
>>
>>scrubbed
>>
>>>>it, etc, etc, but no. The gasket laughed right at my face. In the
>>>>process, I have even made a few minor scratches and I'm afraid that
>>>>continuing may create even more scratches and damage the surface to
>
> the
>
>>>>point that the seal will be compromised, no matter how much torque I
>>
>>apply
>>
>>>>when installing the carburetor.
>>>>
>>>>How can I take what's left of the gasket off?
>>>>
>>>>MC
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>
>

 

If you pump the pedal the engine keeps running. It start at about 3000 rpm,
then within a second it engine rpm goes straight down and engine dies. You
need to keep pumping the pedal when you see engine rpm starting to go down.
I can maintain the engine running like this, but as soon as I take my foot
of the pedal the engine dies.

MC
---

"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:BAVub.437141$6C4.39967@pd7tw1no...
> Hi,
> Even if you pump the pedal, engine dies? Is fuel pump known to work OK?
> Finer than sand paper is emery stone.
> There is gasket sealant(or so called gaksket maker) you can use.
> if you think there is vacuum leak, spray WD40 genrerously around the
> suspect spot. RPM will pick up when you hit it right.
> Just minute, you said engine keeps dying, then this test is no good yet.
> Tony
>
>
> MC wrote:
>
> > WD40 plus a single sided razor did the trick. I still sanded the
surface
> > the best I could and cleaned it with a rag. Placed a new gasket, the
EFE
> > heater, a new o-ring and then the carburetor.
> >
> > Now the engine starts but dies immediately. I checked the accelerator
pump
> > and it appears to be working; pressing the accelerator causes a stream
of
> > gasoline to enter the carburetor. You can see gasoline through the
float
> > level inspection window. The accelerator pump diaphram was one of the
parts
> > that I replaced when I bought a new carburetor kit. I suspect a small
> > gasoline leak at the pump because the area seemed a little "wet" after I
> > turned off the engine.
> >
> > I suspect a vacuum leak right at the gasket. I torqued the carburetor
> > mounting nuts to 15ft/lbs. I've heard that sometimes the EFE heaters can
> > warp causing leaks... that or I really messed up the intake manifold
> > surface. Can I use hi-temperature gasket sealant?
> >
> > Thanks for your replies.
> >
> > MC
> > ---
> >
> > "meto" <derbender@att.net> wrote in message
> > news:m4Tub.86180$Ec1.4254729@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> >
> >>I find that a single sided razor blade did the trick with my water pump
on
> >>another make of car, (with a lot of work). Make sure it's a new blade.
I
> >>would try this in conjuction with the WD40 idea. Plan on 30-40 minutes
of
> >>hard labor. Be careful not to scratch up the metal of the carburetor.
> >>Otherwise use a light grade of sandpaper to smooth out any MINOR nicks
in
> >>the metal that you may add.
> >>
> >>
> >>"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> >>news:SzBub.430853$9l5.352701@pd7tw2no...
> >>
> >>>Hi,
> >>>Tried WD40 spray? It is actually solvent. Soak it with WD40 and try.
> >>>Tony
> >>>
> >>>MC wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>I did some work on my car's carburetor (Accord '87 LX) and now it's
> >
> > time
> >
> >>to
> >>
> >>>>put it back on. But the gasket between the intake manifold and the
> >
> > EFE
> >
> >>>>heater won't come off... It just won't. No way.
> >>>>
> >>>>That gasket says it's been there since 1987 and there's no power on
> >
> > this
> >
> >>>>earth that's going to take it off...
> >>>>
> >>>>I went out and bought some gasket remover, sprayed it on, waited,
> >>
> >>scrubbed
> >>
> >>>>it, etc, etc, but no. The gasket laughed right at my face. In the
> >>>>process, I have even made a few minor scratches and I'm afraid that
> >>>>continuing may create even more scratches and damage the surface to
> >
> > the
> >
> >>>>point that the seal will be compromised, no matter how much torque I
> >>
> >>apply
> >>
> >>>>when installing the carburetor.
> >>>>
> >>>>How can I take what's left of the gasket off?
> >>>>
> >>>>MC
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
>

 

If you pump the pedal the engine keeps running. It start at about 3000 rpm,
then within a second it engine rpm goes straight down and engine dies. You
need to keep pumping the pedal when you see engine rpm starting to go down.
I can maintain the engine running like this, but as soon as I take my foot
of the pedal the engine dies.

MC
---

"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:BAVub.437141$6C4.39967@pd7tw1no...
> Hi,
> Even if you pump the pedal, engine dies? Is fuel pump known to work OK?
> Finer than sand paper is emery stone.
> There is gasket sealant(or so called gaksket maker) you can use.
> if you think there is vacuum leak, spray WD40 genrerously around the
> suspect spot. RPM will pick up when you hit it right.
> Just minute, you said engine keeps dying, then this test is no good yet.
> Tony
>
>
> MC wrote:
>
> > WD40 plus a single sided razor did the trick. I still sanded the
surface
> > the best I could and cleaned it with a rag. Placed a new gasket, the
EFE
> > heater, a new o-ring and then the carburetor.
> >
> > Now the engine starts but dies immediately. I checked the accelerator
pump
> > and it appears to be working; pressing the accelerator causes a stream
of
> > gasoline to enter the carburetor. You can see gasoline through the
float
> > level inspection window. The accelerator pump diaphram was one of the
parts
> > that I replaced when I bought a new carburetor kit. I suspect a small
> > gasoline leak at the pump because the area seemed a little "wet" after I
> > turned off the engine.
> >
> > I suspect a vacuum leak right at the gasket. I torqued the carburetor
> > mounting nuts to 15ft/lbs. I've heard that sometimes the EFE heaters can
> > warp causing leaks... that or I really messed up the intake manifold
> > surface. Can I use hi-temperature gasket sealant?
> >
> > Thanks for your replies.
> >
> > MC
> > ---
> >
> > "meto" <derbender@att.net> wrote in message
> > news:m4Tub.86180$Ec1.4254729@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> >
> >>I find that a single sided razor blade did the trick with my water pump
on
> >>another make of car, (with a lot of work). Make sure it's a new blade.
I
> >>would try this in conjuction with the WD40 idea. Plan on 30-40 minutes
of
> >>hard labor. Be careful not to scratch up the metal of the carburetor.
> >>Otherwise use a light grade of sandpaper to smooth out any MINOR nicks
in
> >>the metal that you may add.
> >>
> >>
> >>"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> >>news:SzBub.430853$9l5.352701@pd7tw2no...
> >>
> >>>Hi,
> >>>Tried WD40 spray? It is actually solvent. Soak it with WD40 and try.
> >>>Tony
> >>>
> >>>MC wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>I did some work on my car's carburetor (Accord '87 LX) and now it's
> >
> > time
> >
> >>to
> >>
> >>>>put it back on. But the gasket between the intake manifold and the
> >
> > EFE
> >
> >>>>heater won't come off... It just won't. No way.
> >>>>
> >>>>That gasket says it's been there since 1987 and there's no power on
> >
> > this
> >
> >>>>earth that's going to take it off...
> >>>>
> >>>>I went out and bought some gasket remover, sprayed it on, waited,
> >>
> >>scrubbed
> >>
> >>>>it, etc, etc, but no. The gasket laughed right at my face. In the
> >>>>process, I have even made a few minor scratches and I'm afraid that
> >>>>continuing may create even more scratches and damage the surface to
> >
> > the
> >
> >>>>point that the seal will be compromised, no matter how much torque I
> >>
> >>apply
> >>
> >>>>when installing the carburetor.
> >>>>
> >>>>How can I take what's left of the gasket off?
> >>>>
> >>>>MC
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
>

 

If you pump the pedal the engine keeps running. It start at about 3000 rpm,
then within a second it engine rpm goes straight down and engine dies. You
need to keep pumping the pedal when you see engine rpm starting to go down.
I can maintain the engine running like this, but as soon as I take my foot
of the pedal the engine dies.

MC
---

"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:BAVub.437141$6C4.39967@pd7tw1no...
> Hi,
> Even if you pump the pedal, engine dies? Is fuel pump known to work OK?
> Finer than sand paper is emery stone.
> There is gasket sealant(or so called gaksket maker) you can use.
> if you think there is vacuum leak, spray WD40 genrerously around the
> suspect spot. RPM will pick up when you hit it right.
> Just minute, you said engine keeps dying, then this test is no good yet.
> Tony
>
>
> MC wrote:
>
> > WD40 plus a single sided razor did the trick. I still sanded the
surface
> > the best I could and cleaned it with a rag. Placed a new gasket, the
EFE
> > heater, a new o-ring and then the carburetor.
> >
> > Now the engine starts but dies immediately. I checked the accelerator
pump
> > and it appears to be working; pressing the accelerator causes a stream
of
> > gasoline to enter the carburetor. You can see gasoline through the
float
> > level inspection window. The accelerator pump diaphram was one of the
parts
> > that I replaced when I bought a new carburetor kit. I suspect a small
> > gasoline leak at the pump because the area seemed a little "wet" after I
> > turned off the engine.
> >
> > I suspect a vacuum leak right at the gasket. I torqued the carburetor
> > mounting nuts to 15ft/lbs. I've heard that sometimes the EFE heaters can
> > warp causing leaks... that or I really messed up the intake manifold
> > surface. Can I use hi-temperature gasket sealant?
> >
> > Thanks for your replies.
> >
> > MC
> > ---
> >
> > "meto" <derbender@att.net> wrote in message
> > news:m4Tub.86180$Ec1.4254729@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> >
> >>I find that a single sided razor blade did the trick with my water pump
on
> >>another make of car, (with a lot of work). Make sure it's a new blade.
I
> >>would try this in conjuction with the WD40 idea. Plan on 30-40 minutes
of
> >>hard labor. Be careful not to scratch up the metal of the carburetor.
> >>Otherwise use a light grade of sandpaper to smooth out any MINOR nicks
in
> >>the metal that you may add.
> >>
> >>
> >>"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> >>news:SzBub.430853$9l5.352701@pd7tw2no...
> >>
> >>>Hi,
> >>>Tried WD40 spray? It is actually solvent. Soak it with WD40 and try.
> >>>Tony
> >>>
> >>>MC wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>I did some work on my car's carburetor (Accord '87 LX) and now it's
> >
> > time
> >
> >>to
> >>
> >>>>put it back on. But the gasket between the intake manifold and the
> >
> > EFE
> >
> >>>>heater won't come off... It just won't. No way.
> >>>>
> >>>>That gasket says it's been there since 1987 and there's no power on
> >
> > this
> >
> >>>>earth that's going to take it off...
> >>>>
> >>>>I went out and bought some gasket remover, sprayed it on, waited,
> >>
> >>scrubbed
> >>
> >>>>it, etc, etc, but no. The gasket laughed right at my face. In the
> >>>>process, I have even made a few minor scratches and I'm afraid that
> >>>>continuing may create even more scratches and damage the surface to
> >
> > the
> >
> >>>>point that the seal will be compromised, no matter how much torque I
> >>
> >>apply
> >>
> >>>>when installing the carburetor.
> >>>>
> >>>>How can I take what's left of the gasket off?
> >>>>
> >>>>MC
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
>

 

If you pump the pedal the engine keeps running. It start at about 3000 rpm,
then within a second it engine rpm goes straight down and engine dies. You
need to keep pumping the pedal when you see engine rpm starting to go down.
I can maintain the engine running like this, but as soon as I take my foot
of the pedal the engine dies.

MC
---

"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:BAVub.437141$6C4.39967@pd7tw1no...
> Hi,
> Even if you pump the pedal, engine dies? Is fuel pump known to work OK?
> Finer than sand paper is emery stone.
> There is gasket sealant(or so called gaksket maker) you can use.
> if you think there is vacuum leak, spray WD40 genrerously around the
> suspect spot. RPM will pick up when you hit it right.
> Just minute, you said engine keeps dying, then this test is no good yet.
> Tony
>
>
> MC wrote:
>
> > WD40 plus a single sided razor did the trick. I still sanded the
surface
> > the best I could and cleaned it with a rag. Placed a new gasket, the
EFE
> > heater, a new o-ring and then the carburetor.
> >
> > Now the engine starts but dies immediately. I checked the accelerator
pump
> > and it appears to be working; pressing the accelerator causes a stream
of
> > gasoline to enter the carburetor. You can see gasoline through the
float
> > level inspection window. The accelerator pump diaphram was one of the
parts
> > that I replaced when I bought a new carburetor kit. I suspect a small
> > gasoline leak at the pump because the area seemed a little "wet" after I
> > turned off the engine.
> >
> > I suspect a vacuum leak right at the gasket. I torqued the carburetor
> > mounting nuts to 15ft/lbs. I've heard that sometimes the EFE heaters can
> > warp causing leaks... that or I really messed up the intake manifold
> > surface. Can I use hi-temperature gasket sealant?
> >
> > Thanks for your replies.
> >
> > MC
> > ---
> >
> > "meto" <derbender@att.net> wrote in message
> > news:m4Tub.86180$Ec1.4254729@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> >
> >>I find that a single sided razor blade did the trick with my water pump
on
> >>another make of car, (with a lot of work). Make sure it's a new blade.
I
> >>would try this in conjuction with the WD40 idea. Plan on 30-40 minutes
of
> >>hard labor. Be careful not to scratch up the metal of the carburetor.
> >>Otherwise use a light grade of sandpaper to smooth out any MINOR nicks
in
> >>the metal that you may add.
> >>
> >>
> >>"Tony Hwang" <dragon40@shaw.ca> wrote in message
> >>news:SzBub.430853$9l5.352701@pd7tw2no...
> >>
> >>>Hi,
> >>>Tried WD40 spray? It is actually solvent. Soak it with WD40 and try.
> >>>Tony
> >>>
> >>>MC wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>I did some work on my car's carburetor (Accord '87 LX) and now it's
> >
> > time
> >
> >>to
> >>
> >>>>put it back on. But the gasket between the intake manifold and the
> >
> > EFE
> >
> >>>>heater won't come off... It just won't. No way.
> >>>>
> >>>>That gasket says it's been there since 1987 and there's no power on
> >
> > this
> >
> >>>>earth that's going to take it off...
> >>>>
> >>>>I went out and bought some gasket remover, sprayed it on, waited,
> >>
> >>scrubbed
> >>
> >>>>it, etc, etc, but no. The gasket laughed right at my face. In the
> >>>>process, I have even made a few minor scratches and I'm afraid that
> >>>>continuing may create even more scratches and damage the surface to
> >
> > the
> >
> >>>>point that the seal will be compromised, no matter how much torque I
> >>
> >>apply
> >>
> >>>>when installing the carburetor.
> >>>>
> >>>>How can I take what's left of the gasket off?
> >>>>
> >>>>MC
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
>

 

MC wrote:
>
> If you pump the pedal the engine keeps running. It start at about 3000
> rpm, then within a second it engine rpm goes straight down and engine
> dies. You need to keep pumping the pedal when you see engine rpm starting
> to go down. I can maintain the engine running like this, but as soon as I
> take my foot of the pedal the engine dies.

Just checking, but I have to ask, if I remember correctly there is usually a
vacuum line that you need to plug (at least one but there may be two) if you
are trying to run the car without the air cleaner. Are you sure that you
have this plugged? Also, have you left any other hoses off that might be
causing a huge vacuum leak?

Eric

 

MC wrote:
>
> If you pump the pedal the engine keeps running. It start at about 3000
> rpm, then within a second it engine rpm goes straight down and engine
> dies. You need to keep pumping the pedal when you see engine rpm starting
> to go down. I can maintain the engine running like this, but as soon as I
> take my foot of the pedal the engine dies.

Just checking, but I have to ask, if I remember correctly there is usually a
vacuum line that you need to plug (at least one but there may be two) if you
are trying to run the car without the air cleaner. Are you sure that you
have this plugged? Also, have you left any other hoses off that might be
causing a huge vacuum leak?

Eric

 

MC wrote:
>
> If you pump the pedal the engine keeps running. It start at about 3000
> rpm, then within a second it engine rpm goes straight down and engine
> dies. You need to keep pumping the pedal when you see engine rpm starting
> to go down. I can maintain the engine running like this, but as soon as I
> take my foot of the pedal the engine dies.

Just checking, but I have to ask, if I remember correctly there is usually a
vacuum line that you need to plug (at least one but there may be two) if you
are trying to run the car without the air cleaner. Are you sure that you
have this plugged? Also, have you left any other hoses off that might be
causing a huge vacuum leak?

Eric

 

MC wrote:
>
> If you pump the pedal the engine keeps running. It start at about 3000
> rpm, then within a second it engine rpm goes straight down and engine
> dies. You need to keep pumping the pedal when you see engine rpm starting
> to go down. I can maintain the engine running like this, but as soon as I
> take my foot of the pedal the engine dies.

Just checking, but I have to ask, if I remember correctly there is usually a
vacuum line that you need to plug (at least one but there may be two) if you
are trying to run the car without the air cleaner. Are you sure that you
have this plugged? Also, have you left any other hoses off that might be
causing a huge vacuum leak?

Eric

 

There are 4 vacuum lines that connect to the air filter assembly; I plugged
all of them. I have replaced most vacuum lines, but they seem to be a
little "loose", they don't seem to fit tight. I'm looking into that and
will probably clamp down all connections.
---

"Eric" <say.no@spam.now> wrote in message news:3FBD4274.E02BC54A@spam.now...
> MC wrote:
> >
> > If you pump the pedal the engine keeps running. It start at about 3000
> > rpm, then within a second it engine rpm goes straight down and engine
> > dies. You need to keep pumping the pedal when you see engine rpm
starting
> > to go down. I can maintain the engine running like this, but as soon as
I
> > take my foot of the pedal the engine dies.
>
> Just checking, but I have to ask, if I remember correctly there is usually
a
> vacuum line that you need to plug (at least one but there may be two) if
you
> are trying to run the car without the air cleaner. Are you sure that you
> have this plugged? Also, have you left any other hoses off that might be
> causing a huge vacuum leak?
>
> Eric