I did an ohm check on my fuel injectors today, '91 Accord, 173k...They
all showed a reading of 2.7 ohms.

Haynes says they should be between 1.5 and 2.5.

What does it mean that mine are at 2.7?

Thanks,

Tim

 

| Haynes says they should be between 1.5 and 2.5.
@ 20ēC per http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

| What does it mean that mine are at 2.7?
You did not deduct for your meter's test leads' resistance. Mine
have 2.1 ohm @ 30ēC, 2 ohm @ 20ēC.

 

| Haynes says they should be between 1.5 and 2.5.
@ 20ēC per http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us...rInfoPages.htm

| What does it mean that mine are at 2.7?
You did not deduct for your meter's test leads' resistance. Mine
have 2.1 ohm @ 30ēC, 2 ohm @ 20ēC.

 

"Tim" <timcall@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1178434315.880058.127010@o5g2000hsb.googlegro ups.com...
>I did an ohm check on my fuel injectors today, '91 Accord, 173k...They
> all showed a reading of 2.7 ohms.
>
> Haynes says they should be between 1.5 and 2.5.
>
> What does it mean that mine are at 2.7?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
>
They are okay. If anything goes wrong they will drop some (shorted windings)
or go up a whole lot (broken connection). That they all measure the same,
and in the ballpark, is a good sign. As 'Te' says, zero isn't exactly zero
on low ohms of a DVM.

Backing up a bit, what led you to check the injector resistance? Is the
engine running badly?

Mike

 

"Tim" <timcall@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1178434315.880058.127010@o5g2000hsb.googlegro ups.com...
>I did an ohm check on my fuel injectors today, '91 Accord, 173k...They
> all showed a reading of 2.7 ohms.
>
> Haynes says they should be between 1.5 and 2.5.
>
> What does it mean that mine are at 2.7?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
>
They are okay. If anything goes wrong they will drop some (shorted windings)
or go up a whole lot (broken connection). That they all measure the same,
and in the ballpark, is a good sign. As 'Te' says, zero isn't exactly zero
on low ohms of a DVM.

Backing up a bit, what led you to check the injector resistance? Is the
engine running badly?

Mike

 

On May 6, 5:48 am, "TE Chea" <4...@gmail.com> wrote:
> | Haynes says they should be between 1.5 and 2.5.
> @ 20ēC perwww.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0d/08/32/0900823d800d0832/r...
>
> | What does it mean that mine are at 2.7?
> You did not deduct for your meter's test leads' resistance. Mine
> have 2.1 ohm @ 30ēC, 2 ohm @ 20ēC.

Interesting TE...and thanks for directing me to the AZ info.

 

On May 6, 5:48 am, "TE Chea" <4...@gmail.com> wrote:
> | Haynes says they should be between 1.5 and 2.5.
> @ 20ēC perwww.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0d/08/32/0900823d800d0832/r...
>
> | What does it mean that mine are at 2.7?
> You did not deduct for your meter's test leads' resistance. Mine
> have 2.1 ohm @ 30ēC, 2 ohm @ 20ēC.

Interesting TE...and thanks for directing me to the AZ info.

 

On May 6, 7:55 am, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
wrote:
>
> Backing up a bit, what led you to check the injector resistance? Is the
> engine running badly?
>
> Mike

My Accord just hasn't been running with the same zip it once did so I
thought I would check the injectors. Would there be anything to be
gained in taking them out and soaking them in carburetor cleaner?

 

On May 6, 7:55 am, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
wrote:
>
> Backing up a bit, what led you to check the injector resistance? Is the
> engine running badly?
>
> Mike

My Accord just hasn't been running with the same zip it once did so I
thought I would check the injectors. Would there be anything to be
gained in taking them out and soaking them in carburetor cleaner?

 

Tim wrote:
> On May 6, 7:55 am, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
> wrote:
>> Backing up a bit, what led you to check the injector resistance? Is the
>> engine running badly?
>>
>> Mike
>
> My Accord just hasn't been running with the same zip it once did so I
> thought I would check the injectors. Would there be anything to be
> gained in taking them out and soaking them in carburetor cleaner?
>
>
absolutely nothing. if anything, you'll cause problems by introducing
dirt. run injector cleaner through the tank, then attend to more likely
causes like the egr system, valve clearance, ignition and timing.

 

Tim wrote:
> On May 6, 7:55 am, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
> wrote:
>> Backing up a bit, what led you to check the injector resistance? Is the
>> engine running badly?
>>
>> Mike
>
> My Accord just hasn't been running with the same zip it once did so I
> thought I would check the injectors. Would there be anything to be
> gained in taking them out and soaking them in carburetor cleaner?
>
>
absolutely nothing. if anything, you'll cause problems by introducing
dirt. run injector cleaner through the tank, then attend to more likely
causes like the egr system, valve clearance, ignition and timing.

 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in
news:J9adndqefYbHTaDbnZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d@sedona.net:

> "Tim" <timcall@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:1178434315.880058.127010@o5g2000hsb.googlegro ups.com...
>>I did an ohm check on my fuel injectors today, '91 Accord, 173k...They
>> all showed a reading of 2.7 ohms.
>>
>> Haynes says they should be between 1.5 and 2.5.
>>
>> What does it mean that mine are at 2.7?

It means you may have some lead resistance in yout test leads(that needs to
be subtracted),or resistance in the connection to the injector. the low
ohms range is vulnerable to that,unless you have a DMM with a 4-terminal
ohms measurement capability.


>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
> They are okay. If anything goes wrong they will drop some (shorted
> windings) or go up a whole lot (broken connection). That they all
> measure the same, and in the ballpark, is a good sign. As 'Te' says,
> zero isn't exactly zero on low ohms of a DVM.
>
> Backing up a bit, what led you to check the injector resistance? Is
> the engine running badly?
>
> Mike
>
>
>



--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in
news:J9adndqefYbHTaDbnZ2dnUVZ_jGdnZ2d@sedona.net:

> "Tim" <timcall@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
> news:1178434315.880058.127010@o5g2000hsb.googlegro ups.com...
>>I did an ohm check on my fuel injectors today, '91 Accord, 173k...They
>> all showed a reading of 2.7 ohms.
>>
>> Haynes says they should be between 1.5 and 2.5.
>>
>> What does it mean that mine are at 2.7?

It means you may have some lead resistance in yout test leads(that needs to
be subtracted),or resistance in the connection to the injector. the low
ohms range is vulnerable to that,unless you have a DMM with a 4-terminal
ohms measurement capability.


>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tim
>>
>>
> They are okay. If anything goes wrong they will drop some (shorted
> windings) or go up a whole lot (broken connection). That they all
> measure the same, and in the ballpark, is a good sign. As 'Te' says,
> zero isn't exactly zero on low ohms of a DVM.
>
> Backing up a bit, what led you to check the injector resistance? Is
> the engine running badly?
>
> Mike
>
>
>



--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

"Tim" <timcall@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1178471212.341176.248990@p77g2000hsh.googlegr oups.com...
> On May 6, 7:55 am, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
> wrote:
>>
>> Backing up a bit, what led you to check the injector resistance? Is the
>> engine running badly?
>>
>> Mike
>
> My Accord just hasn't been running with the same zip it once did so I
> thought I would check the injectors. Would there be anything to be
> gained in taking them out and soaking them in carburetor cleaner?
>
>
>

A bottle of Techron in the tank will do as well, and without the headaches
that go with removing and reinstalling injectors. Dirty injectors usually
show up more as stumbling, especially taking off from a stop. That is really
obvious with manual transmissions, where the symptoms are very similar to a
grabby clutch.

If the ignition parts (plugs, wires, rotor and cap) are getting old, this is
a good time to replace those. You can use NGK plugs, but for everything else
genuine Honda parts are a better bet than aftermarket parts. I was made a
believer when my son used NAPA parts in his Acura and the rotor actually
broke a few months later!

The Haynes manual for my daughter's '93 Accord has a slick test for exhaust
restrictions, too. Paraphrasing:
*Connect a manifold pressure guage to the intake manifold and start the
engine. Note the idle reading.
*Open the throttle to stabilize the engine around 2000 rpm and watch the
guage when you release the throttle.
*If the guage returns to within a couple PSI of the original idle reading
within two seconds, the exhaust is normal. If the reading hangs at the
higher pressure for a few seconds or slowly drifts down there is restriction
in the exhaust - maybe the catalytic converter, maybe the muffler.

Mike

 

"Tim" <timcall@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:1178471212.341176.248990@p77g2000hsh.googlegr oups.com...
> On May 6, 7:55 am, "Michael Pardee" <michaeltn...@cybertrails.com>
> wrote:
>>
>> Backing up a bit, what led you to check the injector resistance? Is the
>> engine running badly?
>>
>> Mike
>
> My Accord just hasn't been running with the same zip it once did so I
> thought I would check the injectors. Would there be anything to be
> gained in taking them out and soaking them in carburetor cleaner?
>
>
>

A bottle of Techron in the tank will do as well, and without the headaches
that go with removing and reinstalling injectors. Dirty injectors usually
show up more as stumbling, especially taking off from a stop. That is really
obvious with manual transmissions, where the symptoms are very similar to a
grabby clutch.

If the ignition parts (plugs, wires, rotor and cap) are getting old, this is
a good time to replace those. You can use NGK plugs, but for everything else
genuine Honda parts are a better bet than aftermarket parts. I was made a
believer when my son used NAPA parts in his Acura and the rotor actually
broke a few months later!

The Haynes manual for my daughter's '93 Accord has a slick test for exhaust
restrictions, too. Paraphrasing:
*Connect a manifold pressure guage to the intake manifold and start the
engine. Note the idle reading.
*Open the throttle to stabilize the engine around 2000 rpm and watch the
guage when you release the throttle.
*If the guage returns to within a couple PSI of the original idle reading
within two seconds, the exhaust is normal. If the reading hangs at the
higher pressure for a few seconds or slowly drifts down there is restriction
in the exhaust - maybe the catalytic converter, maybe the muffler.

Mike