On Aug 22, 11:40 am, "loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote:
> As far as fuel economy on my civic, normally I get about 450-500kms on 40L of
> fuel, mostly highway driving. Now have 282000kms on the motor. (its a 5 spd
> too). Keep in mind that mine is not vtec though, and that does make a
> difference (vtecs use more, generally speaking)
>
> t

This mileage seems quite low for the 98 Civic with manual tranny (it
translates to about 28-29 MPG). Was it that bad when there were fewer
km's on it?

Serban

 

nope, was much better. My wife drives it with a heavy foot though.

gigelus2k3 wrote:
>> As far as fuel economy on my civic, normally I get about 450-500kms on 40L of
>> fuel, mostly highway driving. Now have 282000kms on the motor. (its a 5 spd
>> too). Keep in mind that mine is not vtec though, and that does make a
>> difference (vtecs use more, generally speaking)
>>
>> t
>
>This mileage seems quite low for the 98 Civic with manual tranny (it
>translates to about 28-29 MPG). Was it that bad when there were fewer
>km's on it?
>
>Serban

--
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nope, was much better. My wife drives it with a heavy foot though.

gigelus2k3 wrote:
>> As far as fuel economy on my civic, normally I get about 450-500kms on 40L of
>> fuel, mostly highway driving. Now have 282000kms on the motor. (its a 5 spd
>> too). Keep in mind that mine is not vtec though, and that does make a
>> difference (vtecs use more, generally speaking)
>>
>> t
>
>This mileage seems quite low for the 98 Civic with manual tranny (it
>translates to about 28-29 MPG). Was it that bad when there were fewer
>km's on it?
>
>Serban

--
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nope, was much better. My wife drives it with a heavy foot though.

gigelus2k3 wrote:
>> As far as fuel economy on my civic, normally I get about 450-500kms on 40L of
>> fuel, mostly highway driving. Now have 282000kms on the motor. (its a 5 spd
>> too). Keep in mind that mine is not vtec though, and that does make a
>> difference (vtecs use more, generally speaking)
>>
>> t
>
>This mileage seems quite low for the 98 Civic with manual tranny (it
>translates to about 28-29 MPG). Was it that bad when there were fewer
>km's on it?
>
>Serban

--
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http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1

 

On Aug 22, 2:24 pm, "loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote:
> nope, was much better. My wife drives it with a heavy foot though.
>
> gigelus2k3 wrote:
> >> As far as fuel economy on my civic, normally I get about 450-500kms on 40L of
> >> fuel, mostly highway driving. Now have 282000kms on the motor. (its a 5 spd
> >> too). Keep in mind that mine is not vtec though, and that does make a
> >> difference (vtecs use more, generally speaking)
>
> >> t
>
> >This mileage seems quite low for the 98 Civic with manual tranny (it
> >translates to about 28-29 MPG). Was it that bad when there were fewer
> >km's on it?
>
> >Serban
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.comhttp://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/honda-cars/200708/1

Thanks for the help folks.
I am going to try the Lucas oil upper cylinder cleaner then do a oil
change and put in a new PCV valve at the same time.
Hope that fixes it and if it doesn't I will go with some of the other
solutions. Such as checking the compression, etc.

 

On Aug 22, 2:24 pm, "loewent via CarKB.com" <u10197@uwe> wrote:
> nope, was much better. My wife drives it with a heavy foot though.
>
> gigelus2k3 wrote:
> >> As far as fuel economy on my civic, normally I get about 450-500kms on 40L of
> >> fuel, mostly highway driving. Now have 282000kms on the motor. (its a 5 spd
> >> too). Keep in mind that mine is not vtec though, and that does make a
> >> difference (vtecs use more, generally speaking)
>
> >> t
>
> >This mileage seems quite low for the 98 Civic with manual tranny (it
> >translates to about 28-29 MPG). Was it that bad when there were fewer
> >km's on it?
>
> >Serban
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.comhttp://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/honda-cars/200708/1

Thanks for the help folks.
I am going to try the Lucas oil upper cylinder cleaner then do a oil
change and put in a new PCV valve at the same time.
Hope that fixes it and if it doesn't I will go with some of the other
solutions. Such as checking the compression, etc.

 

On Aug 21, 3:49 pm, nyl...@canoemail.com wrote:
> I have a 98 civic si and I was getting 525km per 40 litres in the
> city.
> Over last year the fuel usage has gone up and I can't figure out why.
> Currently I am getting only about 450km per 40 litres in the city.
> My idle is fine and the engine does not seem to run roughly.
> I have noticed that around 2500 rpm I used to get a little surge of
> power and then again at 3100 rpm.
> As of the last while the surge of power at 2500 rpm is intermitent. I
> would suggest that the power seems to go away with the engine getting
> to running temperature however I have no proof just how it seems to
> me.
>
> Anyone have any ideas of what might be the difficulty.
> I can tell you I have never replaced the PCV valve in the last 100,
> 000 km. Oh and the car currently has 190, 000 km on it.
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Brian

Another relatively cheap thing to try if you're not already doing it
is to switch from 5w20 to 0w30. It should be synthetic as rings seal /
work better with synthetic due to the uniformity of synthetic
molecules. I have a 2003 Accord (4 cyl) with just under 320,000Km and
I use Amsoil 0w30 from 44,000Km. The engine is not maintained by any
Honda / mechanics shops. The reason I switched from 5w20 to 0w30 is as
follows and I will mention only the ones that may relate to your
dissatisfaction. The main reaon to switch for me was cylinder assembly
wear and tear. No matter how often you change your 5w20 honda motor
oil, the viscosity at the optimum operating temperature is
approximately 10% less than with 0w30. Since I am a little more
heavier footed than most drivers it means that the internal cylinder
moving parts could on occasion exceed the temperature range and enter
in the "danger" zone for the 5w20 oil i.e. viscosity below 7 or even 6
(i.e. it is about 9 for 5w20 Honda oil at normal operating car
condition i.e. hwy cruising between 90-100Km/hr). So the film becomes
very thin until the water cools down the system, and eventually the
viscosity increases back to 9. With 0w30 you have that extra viscosity
capability at higher internal temperature. The end result is reduced
engine wear when you are pushing the engine. I change the oil and
filter every 32,000Km. Prior to oil change I drive the car with higher
RPM on occasion (5-6k RPM) to burn carbon / film etc. if any is there
(most likely nothing there). I then drain and fill it with 5w30
Autolab (cause it is cheap) fresh oil and run the engine for about ten
minutes to wash it. I drain it and refil with synthetic. Does all this
work well? I have done this on every car I've had since mid seventies
on same oil (Amsoil. It doesn't have to be Amsoil - key here is
synthetic). I am a bit surprised at the gas milage that you're
getting. At 320,000Km Accord at 100Km/h I use between 5.8 and 5.9 l of
gas per 100 kilomteres i.e. over 1000Km per tank (I only do hwy
driving). If you eventually perform a compression test and fiind out
that compression is low due to rings, you may try 0w40 synthetic. that
has even better sealing properties at normal and higher engine working
temperature. The negative effects of higher viscosity oil at normal
operating temperature is higher fuel consumption.

Good luck.

Dan

 

On Aug 21, 3:49 pm, nyl...@canoemail.com wrote:
> I have a 98 civic si and I was getting 525km per 40 litres in the
> city.
> Over last year the fuel usage has gone up and I can't figure out why.
> Currently I am getting only about 450km per 40 litres in the city.
> My idle is fine and the engine does not seem to run roughly.
> I have noticed that around 2500 rpm I used to get a little surge of
> power and then again at 3100 rpm.
> As of the last while the surge of power at 2500 rpm is intermitent. I
> would suggest that the power seems to go away with the engine getting
> to running temperature however I have no proof just how it seems to
> me.
>
> Anyone have any ideas of what might be the difficulty.
> I can tell you I have never replaced the PCV valve in the last 100,
> 000 km. Oh and the car currently has 190, 000 km on it.
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
> Brian

Another relatively cheap thing to try if you're not already doing it
is to switch from 5w20 to 0w30. It should be synthetic as rings seal /
work better with synthetic due to the uniformity of synthetic
molecules. I have a 2003 Accord (4 cyl) with just under 320,000Km and
I use Amsoil 0w30 from 44,000Km. The engine is not maintained by any
Honda / mechanics shops. The reason I switched from 5w20 to 0w30 is as
follows and I will mention only the ones that may relate to your
dissatisfaction. The main reaon to switch for me was cylinder assembly
wear and tear. No matter how often you change your 5w20 honda motor
oil, the viscosity at the optimum operating temperature is
approximately 10% less than with 0w30. Since I am a little more
heavier footed than most drivers it means that the internal cylinder
moving parts could on occasion exceed the temperature range and enter
in the "danger" zone for the 5w20 oil i.e. viscosity below 7 or even 6
(i.e. it is about 9 for 5w20 Honda oil at normal operating car
condition i.e. hwy cruising between 90-100Km/hr). So the film becomes
very thin until the water cools down the system, and eventually the
viscosity increases back to 9. With 0w30 you have that extra viscosity
capability at higher internal temperature. The end result is reduced
engine wear when you are pushing the engine. I change the oil and
filter every 32,000Km. Prior to oil change I drive the car with higher
RPM on occasion (5-6k RPM) to burn carbon / film etc. if any is there
(most likely nothing there). I then drain and fill it with 5w30
Autolab (cause it is cheap) fresh oil and run the engine for about ten
minutes to wash it. I drain it and refil with synthetic. Does all this
work well? I have done this on every car I've had since mid seventies
on same oil (Amsoil. It doesn't have to be Amsoil - key here is
synthetic). I am a bit surprised at the gas milage that you're
getting. At 320,000Km Accord at 100Km/h I use between 5.8 and 5.9 l of
gas per 100 kilomteres i.e. over 1000Km per tank (I only do hwy
driving). If you eventually perform a compression test and fiind out
that compression is low due to rings, you may try 0w40 synthetic. that
has even better sealing properties at normal and higher engine working
temperature. The negative effects of higher viscosity oil at normal
operating temperature is higher fuel consumption.

Good luck.

Dan

 

On Civics the standard oil is 5w30, not 5w20.

To be honest, i have neglected the civic for the last 2 years at least. I
will probably do some of the same as the OP, new PCV from Honda, check timing.
I think I'll do a brake check too, perhaps one of them is binding and causing
my mileage to drop...

Couple other things too, a bolt on my valve cover is busted, need to fix that.
.. its just sitting in there with some RTV sealant around it to prevent crap
from getting in. Snapped bolt on distributor cap. Not sure if that will
affect anything. Check all idler pulleys and accessories.

I was kinda hoping to wait to do this at the next Timing belt change (coming
up next summer), but i have some time now, so it's proabbly a good idea.

t

highkm wrote:
>On Aug 21, 3:49 pm, nyl...@canoemail.com wrote:
>> I have a 98 civic si and I was getting 525km per 40 litres in the
>> city.
>[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>>
>> Brian
>
>Another relatively cheap thing to try if you're not already doing it
>is to switch from 5w20 to 0w30. It should be synthetic as rings seal /
>work better with synthetic due to the uniformity of synthetic
>molecules. I have a 2003 Accord (4 cyl) with just under 320,000Km and
>I use Amsoil 0w30 from 44,000Km. The engine is not maintained by any
>Honda / mechanics shops. The reason I switched from 5w20 to 0w30 is as
>follows and I will mention only the ones that may relate to your
>dissatisfaction. The main reaon to switch for me was cylinder assembly
>wear and tear. No matter how often you change your 5w20 honda motor
>oil, the viscosity at the optimum operating temperature is
>approximately 10% less than with 0w30. Since I am a little more
>heavier footed than most drivers it means that the internal cylinder
>moving parts could on occasion exceed the temperature range and enter
>in the "danger" zone for the 5w20 oil i.e. viscosity below 7 or even 6
>(i.e. it is about 9 for 5w20 Honda oil at normal operating car
>condition i.e. hwy cruising between 90-100Km/hr). So the film becomes
>very thin until the water cools down the system, and eventually the
>viscosity increases back to 9. With 0w30 you have that extra viscosity
>capability at higher internal temperature. The end result is reduced
>engine wear when you are pushing the engine. I change the oil and
>filter every 32,000Km. Prior to oil change I drive the car with higher
>RPM on occasion (5-6k RPM) to burn carbon / film etc. if any is there
>(most likely nothing there). I then drain and fill it with 5w30
>Autolab (cause it is cheap) fresh oil and run the engine for about ten
>minutes to wash it. I drain it and refil with synthetic. Does all this
>work well? I have done this on every car I've had since mid seventies
>on same oil (Amsoil. It doesn't have to be Amsoil - key here is
>synthetic). I am a bit surprised at the gas milage that you're
>getting. At 320,000Km Accord at 100Km/h I use between 5.8 and 5.9 l of
>gas per 100 kilomteres i.e. over 1000Km per tank (I only do hwy
>driving). If you eventually perform a compression test and fiind out
>that compression is low due to rings, you may try 0w40 synthetic. that
>has even better sealing properties at normal and higher engine working
>temperature. The negative effects of higher viscosity oil at normal
>operating temperature is higher fuel consumption.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Dan

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1

 

On Civics the standard oil is 5w30, not 5w20.

To be honest, i have neglected the civic for the last 2 years at least. I
will probably do some of the same as the OP, new PCV from Honda, check timing.
I think I'll do a brake check too, perhaps one of them is binding and causing
my mileage to drop...

Couple other things too, a bolt on my valve cover is busted, need to fix that.
.. its just sitting in there with some RTV sealant around it to prevent crap
from getting in. Snapped bolt on distributor cap. Not sure if that will
affect anything. Check all idler pulleys and accessories.

I was kinda hoping to wait to do this at the next Timing belt change (coming
up next summer), but i have some time now, so it's proabbly a good idea.

t

highkm wrote:
>On Aug 21, 3:49 pm, nyl...@canoemail.com wrote:
>> I have a 98 civic si and I was getting 525km per 40 litres in the
>> city.
>[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>>
>> Brian
>
>Another relatively cheap thing to try if you're not already doing it
>is to switch from 5w20 to 0w30. It should be synthetic as rings seal /
>work better with synthetic due to the uniformity of synthetic
>molecules. I have a 2003 Accord (4 cyl) with just under 320,000Km and
>I use Amsoil 0w30 from 44,000Km. The engine is not maintained by any
>Honda / mechanics shops. The reason I switched from 5w20 to 0w30 is as
>follows and I will mention only the ones that may relate to your
>dissatisfaction. The main reaon to switch for me was cylinder assembly
>wear and tear. No matter how often you change your 5w20 honda motor
>oil, the viscosity at the optimum operating temperature is
>approximately 10% less than with 0w30. Since I am a little more
>heavier footed than most drivers it means that the internal cylinder
>moving parts could on occasion exceed the temperature range and enter
>in the "danger" zone for the 5w20 oil i.e. viscosity below 7 or even 6
>(i.e. it is about 9 for 5w20 Honda oil at normal operating car
>condition i.e. hwy cruising between 90-100Km/hr). So the film becomes
>very thin until the water cools down the system, and eventually the
>viscosity increases back to 9. With 0w30 you have that extra viscosity
>capability at higher internal temperature. The end result is reduced
>engine wear when you are pushing the engine. I change the oil and
>filter every 32,000Km. Prior to oil change I drive the car with higher
>RPM on occasion (5-6k RPM) to burn carbon / film etc. if any is there
>(most likely nothing there). I then drain and fill it with 5w30
>Autolab (cause it is cheap) fresh oil and run the engine for about ten
>minutes to wash it. I drain it and refil with synthetic. Does all this
>work well? I have done this on every car I've had since mid seventies
>on same oil (Amsoil. It doesn't have to be Amsoil - key here is
>synthetic). I am a bit surprised at the gas milage that you're
>getting. At 320,000Km Accord at 100Km/h I use between 5.8 and 5.9 l of
>gas per 100 kilomteres i.e. over 1000Km per tank (I only do hwy
>driving). If you eventually perform a compression test and fiind out
>that compression is low due to rings, you may try 0w40 synthetic. that
>has even better sealing properties at normal and higher engine working
>temperature. The negative effects of higher viscosity oil at normal
>operating temperature is higher fuel consumption.
>
>Good luck.
>
>Dan

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx...-cars/200708/1