Matt Ion wrote:
> Dolph wrote:
> > hey folks..
> >
> > I live in wet vancouver, bc. My wifes car, a 98' civic dx hatchback,
> > decided that somewhere on the body to allow a lot of water in. Probably
> > over a period of 1.5 weeks of heavy rain, there was enough water in the
> > entire car to fill the spare tire compartment up to halfway of the
> > spare tire and flood the driver and passenger cabin space with enough
> > water that the ground is squishy.
>
> WHAT??? It never rains in Vancouver! It's LIQUID SUNSHINE!
>
> (Speaking from a relatively-dry Pitt Meadows here...
>
> > Regardless.. I don't think that I'll ever be able to get the mildew
> > smell out of the car now.. smells like old hockey equipment.. pretty
> > nasty.
> >
> > thoughts/comments? thanks in advance.
>
> Brutal.
>
> Well from experience with my last Accord, I can tell you the most likely place
> the water is coming in is through the hatch area - it trickles down into the
> spare tire well, accumulates there, and then sloshes forward and down under the
> back seats and onto the floor every time you brake. If you check, you'll
> probably find the back seats are pretty wet too.
>
> Can't offer any real suggestions of how to dry it out or get rid of the smell,
> but as for finding the leak, start with the seal around the hatch, and also make
> sure the tail light fixtures are in tight and well-sealed (the other common
> place for water to get in).

exactly what I was thinking.. your right about the braking.. that's
what's happening.. the rear of the seat is wet and the particle board
was not.. I'm going to attempt to get the car dismantled and dry and
then get my wife to hose the car and see if I can see where the leak is
coming in. The car was parked on a slight upward slope.. so that might
be something to think about. Hopefully I can sort this out.

I'm thinking of air drying and then perhaps spraying with some
deoderizer and perhaps some other cleaners.

One thing that makes me curious is that the car had a bumper and side
panel replaced last winter.. I think this might be related.

Eric

 

Matt Ion wrote:
> Dolph wrote:
> > hey folks..
> >
> > I live in wet vancouver, bc. My wifes car, a 98' civic dx hatchback,
> > decided that somewhere on the body to allow a lot of water in. Probably
> > over a period of 1.5 weeks of heavy rain, there was enough water in the
> > entire car to fill the spare tire compartment up to halfway of the
> > spare tire and flood the driver and passenger cabin space with enough
> > water that the ground is squishy.
>
> WHAT??? It never rains in Vancouver! It's LIQUID SUNSHINE!
>
> (Speaking from a relatively-dry Pitt Meadows here...
>
> > Regardless.. I don't think that I'll ever be able to get the mildew
> > smell out of the car now.. smells like old hockey equipment.. pretty
> > nasty.
> >
> > thoughts/comments? thanks in advance.
>
> Brutal.
>
> Well from experience with my last Accord, I can tell you the most likely place
> the water is coming in is through the hatch area - it trickles down into the
> spare tire well, accumulates there, and then sloshes forward and down under the
> back seats and onto the floor every time you brake. If you check, you'll
> probably find the back seats are pretty wet too.
>
> Can't offer any real suggestions of how to dry it out or get rid of the smell,
> but as for finding the leak, start with the seal around the hatch, and also make
> sure the tail light fixtures are in tight and well-sealed (the other common
> place for water to get in).

exactly what I was thinking.. your right about the braking.. that's
what's happening.. the rear of the seat is wet and the particle board
was not.. I'm going to attempt to get the car dismantled and dry and
then get my wife to hose the car and see if I can see where the leak is
coming in. The car was parked on a slight upward slope.. so that might
be something to think about. Hopefully I can sort this out.

I'm thinking of air drying and then perhaps spraying with some
deoderizer and perhaps some other cleaners.

One thing that makes me curious is that the car had a bumper and side
panel replaced last winter.. I think this might be related.

Eric

 

TeGGeR® wrote:
> "Dolph" <ekinskofer@gmail.com> wrote in news:1163043939.378529.5590
> @h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:
>
> > hey folks..
> >
> > I live in wet vancouver, bc.
>
>
>
> What is it with all these posters posting independent, identical messages
> instead of properly crossposting?
>
> See my reply to this identical message in rec.autos.makers.honda.
>
>
> --
> TeGGeR®
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

sorry dude.. I wasn't aware of the rules.. when you say proper
crossposting, do you mean link the other post? Thanks for your help,
much appreciated!

 

TeGGeR® wrote:
> "Dolph" <ekinskofer@gmail.com> wrote in news:1163043939.378529.5590
> @h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:
>
> > hey folks..
> >
> > I live in wet vancouver, bc.
>
>
>
> What is it with all these posters posting independent, identical messages
> instead of properly crossposting?
>
> See my reply to this identical message in rec.autos.makers.honda.
>
>
> --
> TeGGeR®
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

sorry dude.. I wasn't aware of the rules.. when you say proper
crossposting, do you mean link the other post? Thanks for your help,
much appreciated!

 

TeGGeR® wrote:
> "Dolph" <ekinskofer@gmail.com> wrote in news:1163043939.378529.5590
> @h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:
>
> > hey folks..
> >
> > I live in wet vancouver, bc.
>
>
>
> What is it with all these posters posting independent, identical messages
> instead of properly crossposting?
>
> See my reply to this identical message in rec.autos.makers.honda.
>
>
> --
> TeGGeR®
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

sorry dude.. I wasn't aware of the rules.. when you say proper
crossposting, do you mean link the other post? Thanks for your help,
much appreciated!

 

TeGGeR® wrote:
> "Dolph" <ekinskofer@gmail.com> wrote in news:1163043939.378529.5590
> @h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:
>
> > hey folks..
> >
> > I live in wet vancouver, bc.
>
>
>
> What is it with all these posters posting independent, identical messages
> instead of properly crossposting?
>
> See my reply to this identical message in rec.autos.makers.honda.
>
>
> --
> TeGGeR®
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

sorry dude.. I wasn't aware of the rules.. when you say proper
crossposting, do you mean link the other post? Thanks for your help,
much appreciated!

 

On 11/9/2006 1:13 AM Dolph spake these words of knowledge:

> TeGGeR® wrote:
>> "Dolph" <ekinskofer@gmail.com> wrote in news:1163043939.378529.5590
>> @h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:
>>
>> > hey folks..
>> >
>> > I live in wet vancouver, bc.
>>
>>
>>
>> What is it with all these posters posting independent, identical messages
>> instead of properly crossposting?
>>
>> See my reply to this identical message in rec.autos.makers.honda.
>>
>>
>> --
>> TeGGeR®
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>
> sorry dude.. I wasn't aware of the rules.. when you say proper
> crossposting, do you mean link the other post? Thanks for your help,
> much appreciated!

This is usenet. Back when it was started there were some generally
accepted ideas - but there are no rules. There is common courtesy, though.

What Tegger is referring to specifically is this: when you compose a
message you are going to post to, say, alt.autos.honda and to
rec.auto.makers.honda, you only need to do it once. Then put both
newsgroups in the to: or Newsgroup: line of the header, and send it.
When a respondent hits the 'reply' button ( with most newsreader
software), it will send the reply to all of the newsgroups the message
was originally posted in. Only one post, only one reply, but both got
seen in both newsgroups. The information in the question and answer is
seen by readers in both newsgroups, including those like me who only
read one of them. That's Tegger's goal, and why he bothers to respond
to the question in one, and put the 'see my reply' message in the other.



RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"A man's ethical behavior should be based effectually on sympathy,
education, and social ties; no religious basis is necessary. Man would
indeed be in a poor way if he had to be restrained by fear of punishment
and hope of reward after death." -- Albert Einstein

 

On 11/9/2006 1:13 AM Dolph spake these words of knowledge:

> TeGGeR® wrote:
>> "Dolph" <ekinskofer@gmail.com> wrote in news:1163043939.378529.5590
>> @h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:
>>
>> > hey folks..
>> >
>> > I live in wet vancouver, bc.
>>
>>
>>
>> What is it with all these posters posting independent, identical messages
>> instead of properly crossposting?
>>
>> See my reply to this identical message in rec.autos.makers.honda.
>>
>>
>> --
>> TeGGeR®
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>
> sorry dude.. I wasn't aware of the rules.. when you say proper
> crossposting, do you mean link the other post? Thanks for your help,
> much appreciated!

This is usenet. Back when it was started there were some generally
accepted ideas - but there are no rules. There is common courtesy, though.

What Tegger is referring to specifically is this: when you compose a
message you are going to post to, say, alt.autos.honda and to
rec.auto.makers.honda, you only need to do it once. Then put both
newsgroups in the to: or Newsgroup: line of the header, and send it.
When a respondent hits the 'reply' button ( with most newsreader
software), it will send the reply to all of the newsgroups the message
was originally posted in. Only one post, only one reply, but both got
seen in both newsgroups. The information in the question and answer is
seen by readers in both newsgroups, including those like me who only
read one of them. That's Tegger's goal, and why he bothers to respond
to the question in one, and put the 'see my reply' message in the other.



RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"A man's ethical behavior should be based effectually on sympathy,
education, and social ties; no religious basis is necessary. Man would
indeed be in a poor way if he had to be restrained by fear of punishment
and hope of reward after death." -- Albert Einstein

 

On 11/9/2006 1:13 AM Dolph spake these words of knowledge:

> TeGGeR® wrote:
>> "Dolph" <ekinskofer@gmail.com> wrote in news:1163043939.378529.5590
>> @h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:
>>
>> > hey folks..
>> >
>> > I live in wet vancouver, bc.
>>
>>
>>
>> What is it with all these posters posting independent, identical messages
>> instead of properly crossposting?
>>
>> See my reply to this identical message in rec.autos.makers.honda.
>>
>>
>> --
>> TeGGeR®
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>
> sorry dude.. I wasn't aware of the rules.. when you say proper
> crossposting, do you mean link the other post? Thanks for your help,
> much appreciated!

This is usenet. Back when it was started there were some generally
accepted ideas - but there are no rules. There is common courtesy, though.

What Tegger is referring to specifically is this: when you compose a
message you are going to post to, say, alt.autos.honda and to
rec.auto.makers.honda, you only need to do it once. Then put both
newsgroups in the to: or Newsgroup: line of the header, and send it.
When a respondent hits the 'reply' button ( with most newsreader
software), it will send the reply to all of the newsgroups the message
was originally posted in. Only one post, only one reply, but both got
seen in both newsgroups. The information in the question and answer is
seen by readers in both newsgroups, including those like me who only
read one of them. That's Tegger's goal, and why he bothers to respond
to the question in one, and put the 'see my reply' message in the other.



RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"A man's ethical behavior should be based effectually on sympathy,
education, and social ties; no religious basis is necessary. Man would
indeed be in a poor way if he had to be restrained by fear of punishment
and hope of reward after death." -- Albert Einstein

 

On 11/9/2006 1:13 AM Dolph spake these words of knowledge:

> TeGGeR® wrote:
>> "Dolph" <ekinskofer@gmail.com> wrote in news:1163043939.378529.5590
>> @h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:
>>
>> > hey folks..
>> >
>> > I live in wet vancouver, bc.
>>
>>
>>
>> What is it with all these posters posting independent, identical messages
>> instead of properly crossposting?
>>
>> See my reply to this identical message in rec.autos.makers.honda.
>>
>>
>> --
>> TeGGeR®
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>
> sorry dude.. I wasn't aware of the rules.. when you say proper
> crossposting, do you mean link the other post? Thanks for your help,
> much appreciated!

This is usenet. Back when it was started there were some generally
accepted ideas - but there are no rules. There is common courtesy, though.

What Tegger is referring to specifically is this: when you compose a
message you are going to post to, say, alt.autos.honda and to
rec.auto.makers.honda, you only need to do it once. Then put both
newsgroups in the to: or Newsgroup: line of the header, and send it.
When a respondent hits the 'reply' button ( with most newsreader
software), it will send the reply to all of the newsgroups the message
was originally posted in. Only one post, only one reply, but both got
seen in both newsgroups. The information in the question and answer is
seen by readers in both newsgroups, including those like me who only
read one of them. That's Tegger's goal, and why he bothers to respond
to the question in one, and put the 'see my reply' message in the other.



RFT!!!
Dave Kelsen
--
"A man's ethical behavior should be based effectually on sympathy,
education, and social ties; no religious basis is necessary. Man would
indeed be in a poor way if he had to be restrained by fear of punishment
and hope of reward after death." -- Albert Einstein

 

"Dolph" <ekinskofer@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1163043939.378529.5590@h48g2000cwc.googlegrou ps.com...
> hey folks..
>
> I live in wet vancouver, bc. My wifes car, a 98' civic dx hatchback,
> decided that somewhere on the body to allow a lot of water in. Probably
> over a period of 1.5 weeks of heavy rain, there was enough water in the
> entire car to fill the spare tire compartment up to halfway of the
> spare tire and flood the driver and passenger cabin space with enough
> water that the ground is squishy.
>
> upsetting...
>
> Anyways.. I vac'd out the water from the spare tire compartment and did
> the best I could with the driver/passenger cabin space (in front and
> behind the seat). Also under the rear passenger seat.
>
> So I have to:
>
> a) figure out a way to rip out all the carpets and siding and attempt
> to find the leak. Attempt to dry all sponge and carpet.
> b) pay someone to do this.
>
> for a)
>
> First of all, I think that I can do a, however, I'm having problems
> removing the rear passenger seating and need to figure that out.. if
> someone could help me out there. Removing the seats souldn't be a
> problem and if I have to remove the carpet I'm thinking that if I
> remove the side floor panels I'll be able to get to sides of the
> carpet.
>

Once the seats are out of the way and the carpet is out where you can get to
it, a shop-vac should get most of the water up.Once that is done I recommend
using isopropyl alcohol as the pre-drying step. You can get it in gallon
cans at paint stores as shellac thinner (not lacquer thinner - check the
ingredients). Splash it liberally wherever the upholstery was wet and use
the shop-vac to remove the alcohol-water mixture. This will inhibit mold and
greatly speed drying. Of course, you won't be able to stand the way the
interior smells while it is drying, but it will smell okay once it's dry.
Probably the best way to dry the interior from that state is to start the
engine and turn the heater full on, with the windows up and the trunk open a
crack. For the pieces you were able to remove, the same sort of treatment
with a fan-dry should do the trick.

Most of all, you don't want mold to get a foothold in your car. That would
be bad.

Mike

 

"Dolph" <ekinskofer@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1163043939.378529.5590@h48g2000cwc.googlegrou ps.com...
> hey folks..
>
> I live in wet vancouver, bc. My wifes car, a 98' civic dx hatchback,
> decided that somewhere on the body to allow a lot of water in. Probably
> over a period of 1.5 weeks of heavy rain, there was enough water in the
> entire car to fill the spare tire compartment up to halfway of the
> spare tire and flood the driver and passenger cabin space with enough
> water that the ground is squishy.
>
> upsetting...
>
> Anyways.. I vac'd out the water from the spare tire compartment and did
> the best I could with the driver/passenger cabin space (in front and
> behind the seat). Also under the rear passenger seat.
>
> So I have to:
>
> a) figure out a way to rip out all the carpets and siding and attempt
> to find the leak. Attempt to dry all sponge and carpet.
> b) pay someone to do this.
>
> for a)
>
> First of all, I think that I can do a, however, I'm having problems
> removing the rear passenger seating and need to figure that out.. if
> someone could help me out there. Removing the seats souldn't be a
> problem and if I have to remove the carpet I'm thinking that if I
> remove the side floor panels I'll be able to get to sides of the
> carpet.
>

Once the seats are out of the way and the carpet is out where you can get to
it, a shop-vac should get most of the water up.Once that is done I recommend
using isopropyl alcohol as the pre-drying step. You can get it in gallon
cans at paint stores as shellac thinner (not lacquer thinner - check the
ingredients). Splash it liberally wherever the upholstery was wet and use
the shop-vac to remove the alcohol-water mixture. This will inhibit mold and
greatly speed drying. Of course, you won't be able to stand the way the
interior smells while it is drying, but it will smell okay once it's dry.
Probably the best way to dry the interior from that state is to start the
engine and turn the heater full on, with the windows up and the trunk open a
crack. For the pieces you were able to remove, the same sort of treatment
with a fan-dry should do the trick.

Most of all, you don't want mold to get a foothold in your car. That would
be bad.

Mike

 

"Dolph" <ekinskofer@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1163043939.378529.5590@h48g2000cwc.googlegrou ps.com...
> hey folks..
>
> I live in wet vancouver, bc. My wifes car, a 98' civic dx hatchback,
> decided that somewhere on the body to allow a lot of water in. Probably
> over a period of 1.5 weeks of heavy rain, there was enough water in the
> entire car to fill the spare tire compartment up to halfway of the
> spare tire and flood the driver and passenger cabin space with enough
> water that the ground is squishy.
>
> upsetting...
>
> Anyways.. I vac'd out the water from the spare tire compartment and did
> the best I could with the driver/passenger cabin space (in front and
> behind the seat). Also under the rear passenger seat.
>
> So I have to:
>
> a) figure out a way to rip out all the carpets and siding and attempt
> to find the leak. Attempt to dry all sponge and carpet.
> b) pay someone to do this.
>
> for a)
>
> First of all, I think that I can do a, however, I'm having problems
> removing the rear passenger seating and need to figure that out.. if
> someone could help me out there. Removing the seats souldn't be a
> problem and if I have to remove the carpet I'm thinking that if I
> remove the side floor panels I'll be able to get to sides of the
> carpet.
>

Once the seats are out of the way and the carpet is out where you can get to
it, a shop-vac should get most of the water up.Once that is done I recommend
using isopropyl alcohol as the pre-drying step. You can get it in gallon
cans at paint stores as shellac thinner (not lacquer thinner - check the
ingredients). Splash it liberally wherever the upholstery was wet and use
the shop-vac to remove the alcohol-water mixture. This will inhibit mold and
greatly speed drying. Of course, you won't be able to stand the way the
interior smells while it is drying, but it will smell okay once it's dry.
Probably the best way to dry the interior from that state is to start the
engine and turn the heater full on, with the windows up and the trunk open a
crack. For the pieces you were able to remove, the same sort of treatment
with a fan-dry should do the trick.

Most of all, you don't want mold to get a foothold in your car. That would
be bad.

Mike

 

"Dolph" <ekinskofer@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1163043939.378529.5590@h48g2000cwc.googlegrou ps.com...
> hey folks..
>
> I live in wet vancouver, bc. My wifes car, a 98' civic dx hatchback,
> decided that somewhere on the body to allow a lot of water in. Probably
> over a period of 1.5 weeks of heavy rain, there was enough water in the
> entire car to fill the spare tire compartment up to halfway of the
> spare tire and flood the driver and passenger cabin space with enough
> water that the ground is squishy.
>
> upsetting...
>
> Anyways.. I vac'd out the water from the spare tire compartment and did
> the best I could with the driver/passenger cabin space (in front and
> behind the seat). Also under the rear passenger seat.
>
> So I have to:
>
> a) figure out a way to rip out all the carpets and siding and attempt
> to find the leak. Attempt to dry all sponge and carpet.
> b) pay someone to do this.
>
> for a)
>
> First of all, I think that I can do a, however, I'm having problems
> removing the rear passenger seating and need to figure that out.. if
> someone could help me out there. Removing the seats souldn't be a
> problem and if I have to remove the carpet I'm thinking that if I
> remove the side floor panels I'll be able to get to sides of the
> carpet.
>

Once the seats are out of the way and the carpet is out where you can get to
it, a shop-vac should get most of the water up.Once that is done I recommend
using isopropyl alcohol as the pre-drying step. You can get it in gallon
cans at paint stores as shellac thinner (not lacquer thinner - check the
ingredients). Splash it liberally wherever the upholstery was wet and use
the shop-vac to remove the alcohol-water mixture. This will inhibit mold and
greatly speed drying. Of course, you won't be able to stand the way the
interior smells while it is drying, but it will smell okay once it's dry.
Probably the best way to dry the interior from that state is to start the
engine and turn the heater full on, with the windows up and the trunk open a
crack. For the pieces you were able to remove, the same sort of treatment
with a fan-dry should do the trick.

Most of all, you don't want mold to get a foothold in your car. That would
be bad.

Mike

 

> I'm thinking of air drying and then perhaps spraying with some
> deoderizer and perhaps some other cleaners.
>
> One thing that makes me curious is that the car had a bumper and side
> panel replaced last winter.. I think this might be related.
>
> Eric
>
----------------------------------------

Hope you have access to a garage. You'll have to soak it all with a
germicide and _then_ suck it all out with a good extraction machine. A
rainbow vacuum would do it if you can get the right extraction tool on
it. If you don't kill all the bugs it will smell forever. Once it's
sucked out, put an electric dehumidifier inside and crank it up. You
have to get it bone dry. Might mean wedging sticks under the carpet in
places and adding a small fan to force the dry air under it.

Of course you have to resolve the LEAK before you attempt any of this.
SEARCH for all the posts regard leaking tailights too.

'Curly'