I agree with all posts here. Don't waste your time with the "clam
shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
consuming, or difficult.

As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.

--Jeff


Tegger wrote:
> Peabody <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
> @newsfe17.lga:
>
> > Tegger says...
> >
> > > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > > from the joint.
> >
> > > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > > chipped or dented in any way.
> >
> > Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> > has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> > tires and front brakes.
> >
> > > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > > behind.
> >
> > What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> > fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> > don't think I can see them.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
> don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
> boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
>
> If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
> retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
> grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
>
> The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
> you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

I agree with all posts here. Don't waste your time with the "clam
shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
consuming, or difficult.

As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.

--Jeff


Tegger wrote:
> Peabody <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
> @newsfe17.lga:
>
> > Tegger says...
> >
> > > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > > from the joint.
> >
> > > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > > chipped or dented in any way.
> >
> > Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> > has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> > tires and front brakes.
> >
> > > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > > behind.
> >
> > What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> > fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> > don't think I can see them.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
> don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
> boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
>
> If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
> retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
> grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
>
> The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
> you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

I agree with all posts here. Don't waste your time with the "clam
shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
consuming, or difficult.

As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.

--Jeff


Tegger wrote:
> Peabody <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
> @newsfe17.lga:
>
> > Tegger says...
> >
> > > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > > from the joint.
> >
> > > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > > chipped or dented in any way.
> >
> > Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> > has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> > tires and front brakes.
> >
> > > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > > behind.
> >
> > What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> > fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> > don't think I can see them.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
> don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
> boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
>
> If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
> retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
> grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
>
> The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
> you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

Jeff, exactly what silicone spray do you use? And what is
the year, miles, and CV boot history one the car on which
you use this?

If others concur, I think I would like to try this.

TIA

<jbxnyr@gmail.com> wrote .
> As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally
> with silicone
> spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under
> the car doing
> oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to
> keep them
> soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will
> help.
>
> --Jeff

 

Jeff, exactly what silicone spray do you use? And what is
the year, miles, and CV boot history one the car on which
you use this?

If others concur, I think I would like to try this.

TIA

<jbxnyr@gmail.com> wrote .
> As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally
> with silicone
> spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under
> the car doing
> oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to
> keep them
> soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will
> help.
>
> --Jeff

 

Jeff, exactly what silicone spray do you use? And what is
the year, miles, and CV boot history one the car on which
you use this?

If others concur, I think I would like to try this.

TIA

<jbxnyr@gmail.com> wrote .
> As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally
> with silicone
> spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under
> the car doing
> oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to
> keep them
> soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will
> help.
>
> --Jeff

 

Jeff, exactly what silicone spray do you use? And what is
the year, miles, and CV boot history one the car on which
you use this?

If others concur, I think I would like to try this.

TIA

<jbxnyr@gmail.com> wrote .
> As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally
> with silicone
> spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under
> the car doing
> oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to
> keep them
> soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will
> help.
>
> --Jeff

 

I tried the silicone spray with the '96 Odyssey, exactly as you suggest at
every oil change. It made absolutely no difference in the longevity of the
CV boots. They failed at about 8 years and 120,000 miles just like every
other Honda and Nissan I have owned.

There is anecdotal evidence, especially with the Nissans, that
prophylactically replacing the half shafts when the joints are still good
can reward you with an unbalanced axle. It is not a given that just because
the boots are torn that the joints are automatically bad. It depends on how
long they've been torn and what sort of driving has been done while they
were torn. If you caught it soon after the tear happened, and it hasn't
been submerged in water or slush or pounded with dirt roads, most likely the
joint is still good. I have never replaced a boot until it tore, and have
never had a joint subsequently fail. The mechanics like to replace the
whole axle because its less work than doing the boot, not because its
better.



On 12/19/06 9:28 AM, in article
1166542126.631700.197280@a3g2000cwd.googlegroups.c om, "jbxnyr@gmail.com"
<jbxnyr@gmail.com> wrote:

> I agree with all posts here. Don't waste your time with the "clam
> shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
> Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
> consuming, or difficult.
>
> As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
> spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
> oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
> soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.
>
> --Jeff
>
>
> Tegger wrote:
>> Peabody <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
>> @newsfe17.lga:
>>
>>> Tegger says...
>>>
>>>> If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
>>>> replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
>>>> to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
>>>> from the joint.
>>>
>>>> And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
>>>> still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
>>>> and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
>>>> chipped or dented in any way.
>>>
>>> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
>>> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
>>> tires and front brakes.
>>>
>>>> If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
>>>> BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
>>>> more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
>>>> years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
>>>> side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
>>>> behind.
>>>
>>> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
>>> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
>>> don't think I can see them.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
>> don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
>> boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
>>
>> If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
>> retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
>> grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
>>
>> The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
>> you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
>>
>> --
>> Tegger
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>

 

I tried the silicone spray with the '96 Odyssey, exactly as you suggest at
every oil change. It made absolutely no difference in the longevity of the
CV boots. They failed at about 8 years and 120,000 miles just like every
other Honda and Nissan I have owned.

There is anecdotal evidence, especially with the Nissans, that
prophylactically replacing the half shafts when the joints are still good
can reward you with an unbalanced axle. It is not a given that just because
the boots are torn that the joints are automatically bad. It depends on how
long they've been torn and what sort of driving has been done while they
were torn. If you caught it soon after the tear happened, and it hasn't
been submerged in water or slush or pounded with dirt roads, most likely the
joint is still good. I have never replaced a boot until it tore, and have
never had a joint subsequently fail. The mechanics like to replace the
whole axle because its less work than doing the boot, not because its
better.



On 12/19/06 9:28 AM, in article
1166542126.631700.197280@a3g2000cwd.googlegroups.c om, "jbxnyr@gmail.com"
<jbxnyr@gmail.com> wrote:

> I agree with all posts here. Don't waste your time with the "clam
> shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
> Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
> consuming, or difficult.
>
> As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
> spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
> oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
> soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.
>
> --Jeff
>
>
> Tegger wrote:
>> Peabody <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
>> @newsfe17.lga:
>>
>>> Tegger says...
>>>
>>>> If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
>>>> replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
>>>> to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
>>>> from the joint.
>>>
>>>> And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
>>>> still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
>>>> and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
>>>> chipped or dented in any way.
>>>
>>> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
>>> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
>>> tires and front brakes.
>>>
>>>> If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
>>>> BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
>>>> more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
>>>> years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
>>>> side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
>>>> behind.
>>>
>>> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
>>> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
>>> don't think I can see them.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
>> don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
>> boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
>>
>> If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
>> retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
>> grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
>>
>> The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
>> you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
>>
>> --
>> Tegger
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>

 

I tried the silicone spray with the '96 Odyssey, exactly as you suggest at
every oil change. It made absolutely no difference in the longevity of the
CV boots. They failed at about 8 years and 120,000 miles just like every
other Honda and Nissan I have owned.

There is anecdotal evidence, especially with the Nissans, that
prophylactically replacing the half shafts when the joints are still good
can reward you with an unbalanced axle. It is not a given that just because
the boots are torn that the joints are automatically bad. It depends on how
long they've been torn and what sort of driving has been done while they
were torn. If you caught it soon after the tear happened, and it hasn't
been submerged in water or slush or pounded with dirt roads, most likely the
joint is still good. I have never replaced a boot until it tore, and have
never had a joint subsequently fail. The mechanics like to replace the
whole axle because its less work than doing the boot, not because its
better.



On 12/19/06 9:28 AM, in article
1166542126.631700.197280@a3g2000cwd.googlegroups.c om, "jbxnyr@gmail.com"
<jbxnyr@gmail.com> wrote:

> I agree with all posts here. Don't waste your time with the "clam
> shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
> Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
> consuming, or difficult.
>
> As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
> spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
> oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
> soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.
>
> --Jeff
>
>
> Tegger wrote:
>> Peabody <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
>> @newsfe17.lga:
>>
>>> Tegger says...
>>>
>>>> If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
>>>> replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
>>>> to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
>>>> from the joint.
>>>
>>>> And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
>>>> still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
>>>> and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
>>>> chipped or dented in any way.
>>>
>>> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
>>> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
>>> tires and front brakes.
>>>
>>>> If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
>>>> BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
>>>> more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
>>>> years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
>>>> side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
>>>> behind.
>>>
>>> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
>>> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
>>> don't think I can see them.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
>> don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
>> boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
>>
>> If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
>> retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
>> grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
>>
>> The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
>> you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
>>
>> --
>> Tegger
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>

 

I tried the silicone spray with the '96 Odyssey, exactly as you suggest at
every oil change. It made absolutely no difference in the longevity of the
CV boots. They failed at about 8 years and 120,000 miles just like every
other Honda and Nissan I have owned.

There is anecdotal evidence, especially with the Nissans, that
prophylactically replacing the half shafts when the joints are still good
can reward you with an unbalanced axle. It is not a given that just because
the boots are torn that the joints are automatically bad. It depends on how
long they've been torn and what sort of driving has been done while they
were torn. If you caught it soon after the tear happened, and it hasn't
been submerged in water or slush or pounded with dirt roads, most likely the
joint is still good. I have never replaced a boot until it tore, and have
never had a joint subsequently fail. The mechanics like to replace the
whole axle because its less work than doing the boot, not because its
better.



On 12/19/06 9:28 AM, in article
1166542126.631700.197280@a3g2000cwd.googlegroups.c om, "jbxnyr@gmail.com"
<jbxnyr@gmail.com> wrote:

> I agree with all posts here. Don't waste your time with the "clam
> shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
> Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
> consuming, or difficult.
>
> As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
> spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
> oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
> soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.
>
> --Jeff
>
>
> Tegger wrote:
>> Peabody <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
>> @newsfe17.lga:
>>
>>> Tegger says...
>>>
>>>> If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
>>>> replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
>>>> to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
>>>> from the joint.
>>>
>>>> And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
>>>> still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
>>>> and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
>>>> chipped or dented in any way.
>>>
>>> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
>>> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
>>> tires and front brakes.
>>>
>>>> If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
>>>> BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
>>>> more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
>>>> years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
>>>> side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
>>>> behind.
>>>
>>> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
>>> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
>>> don't think I can see them.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
>> don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
>> boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
>>
>> If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
>> retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
>> grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
>>
>> The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
>> you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
>>
>> --
>> Tegger
>>
>> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
>> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
>

 

I appreciate everyone's advice on this. I had the work done this
morning. I ended up just replacing the one bad outer boot with a
Honda boot, and left the axles as is. Of course, I don't know for
sure that he actually used a Honda boot, but that's what he agreed
to do, and that's what I paid for.

He drove the car before and after the repairs, and said everything
else looked and felt fine. Since there was no financial advantage
to doing both sides at the same time, I decided to just do the one
that was bad.

I also had the front brakes done, with rotors resurfaced and Honda
pads. And new tires yesterday. So I should be set for another
decade or so. :-)

Thanks again for the help.

By the way, the new Toyo Spectrum tires seem to be a bit firmer than
the old OEM Michelins, but not enough to be bothersome. And I don't
notice any increase in road noise, which some reviews had complained
about. I think they should do fine.

 

I appreciate everyone's advice on this. I had the work done this
morning. I ended up just replacing the one bad outer boot with a
Honda boot, and left the axles as is. Of course, I don't know for
sure that he actually used a Honda boot, but that's what he agreed
to do, and that's what I paid for.

He drove the car before and after the repairs, and said everything
else looked and felt fine. Since there was no financial advantage
to doing both sides at the same time, I decided to just do the one
that was bad.

I also had the front brakes done, with rotors resurfaced and Honda
pads. And new tires yesterday. So I should be set for another
decade or so. :-)

Thanks again for the help.

By the way, the new Toyo Spectrum tires seem to be a bit firmer than
the old OEM Michelins, but not enough to be bothersome. And I don't
notice any increase in road noise, which some reviews had complained
about. I think they should do fine.

 

I appreciate everyone's advice on this. I had the work done this
morning. I ended up just replacing the one bad outer boot with a
Honda boot, and left the axles as is. Of course, I don't know for
sure that he actually used a Honda boot, but that's what he agreed
to do, and that's what I paid for.

He drove the car before and after the repairs, and said everything
else looked and felt fine. Since there was no financial advantage
to doing both sides at the same time, I decided to just do the one
that was bad.

I also had the front brakes done, with rotors resurfaced and Honda
pads. And new tires yesterday. So I should be set for another
decade or so. :-)

Thanks again for the help.

By the way, the new Toyo Spectrum tires seem to be a bit firmer than
the old OEM Michelins, but not enough to be bothersome. And I don't
notice any increase in road noise, which some reviews had complained
about. I think they should do fine.

 

I appreciate everyone's advice on this. I had the work done this
morning. I ended up just replacing the one bad outer boot with a
Honda boot, and left the axles as is. Of course, I don't know for
sure that he actually used a Honda boot, but that's what he agreed
to do, and that's what I paid for.

He drove the car before and after the repairs, and said everything
else looked and felt fine. Since there was no financial advantage
to doing both sides at the same time, I decided to just do the one
that was bad.

I also had the front brakes done, with rotors resurfaced and Honda
pads. And new tires yesterday. So I should be set for another
decade or so. :-)

Thanks again for the help.

By the way, the new Toyo Spectrum tires seem to be a bit firmer than
the old OEM Michelins, but not enough to be bothersome. And I don't
notice any increase in road noise, which some reviews had complained
about. I think they should do fine.