CV boot replacement
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
"Peabody" <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916@newsfe17.lga...
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>
They don't usually fail *first* because they don't get the amount of flexing
the outer boots do. They are exposed to the same environment as the outer
boots, though, and I actually had an axle where the inner boot failed.
Obviously, the boots are changed when either fails, so we rarely know how
much longer the inner boots would go... we only know the first to fail.
Mike
news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916@newsfe17.lga...
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>
They don't usually fail *first* because they don't get the amount of flexing
the outer boots do. They are exposed to the same environment as the outer
boots, though, and I actually had an axle where the inner boot failed.
Obviously, the boots are changed when either fails, so we rarely know how
much longer the inner boots would go... we only know the first to fail.
Mike
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
"Peabody" <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916@newsfe17.lga...
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>
They don't usually fail *first* because they don't get the amount of flexing
the outer boots do. They are exposed to the same environment as the outer
boots, though, and I actually had an axle where the inner boot failed.
Obviously, the boots are changed when either fails, so we rarely know how
much longer the inner boots would go... we only know the first to fail.
Mike
news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916@newsfe17.lga...
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>
They don't usually fail *first* because they don't get the amount of flexing
the outer boots do. They are exposed to the same environment as the outer
boots, though, and I actually had an axle where the inner boot failed.
Obviously, the boots are changed when either fails, so we rarely know how
much longer the inner boots would go... we only know the first to fail.
Mike
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
Peabody wrote:
>
> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
Inner boots generally last longer simply because they are not subject to
the flexing that the outers endure.
Still, while the half shaft is out of the vehicle it's just as easy to
replace both and be done with it. And as Tegger said, use OEM as the
other rubber out there is pretty chincy and will begin to crack within a
couple of years.
JT
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
Peabody wrote:
>
> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
Inner boots generally last longer simply because they are not subject to
the flexing that the outers endure.
Still, while the half shaft is out of the vehicle it's just as easy to
replace both and be done with it. And as Tegger said, use OEM as the
other rubber out there is pretty chincy and will begin to crack within a
couple of years.
JT
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
Peabody wrote:
>
> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
Inner boots generally last longer simply because they are not subject to
the flexing that the outers endure.
Still, while the half shaft is out of the vehicle it's just as easy to
replace both and be done with it. And as Tegger said, use OEM as the
other rubber out there is pretty chincy and will begin to crack within a
couple of years.
JT
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
Peabody wrote:
>
> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
Inner boots generally last longer simply because they are not subject to
the flexing that the outers endure.
Still, while the half shaft is out of the vehicle it's just as easy to
replace both and be done with it. And as Tegger said, use OEM as the
other rubber out there is pretty chincy and will begin to crack within a
couple of years.
JT
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
Peabody <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
@newsfe17.lga:
> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>
>
The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
@newsfe17.lga:
> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>
>
The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
Peabody <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
@newsfe17.lga:
> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>
>
The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
@newsfe17.lga:
> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>
>
The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
Peabody <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
@newsfe17.lga:
> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>
>
The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
@newsfe17.lga:
> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>
>
The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
Peabody <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
@newsfe17.lga:
> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>
>
The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
@newsfe17.lga:
> Tegger says...
>
> > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > from the joint.
>
> > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > chipped or dented in any way.
>
> Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> tires and front brakes.
>
> > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > behind.
>
> What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> don't think I can see them.
>
>
>
The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
--
Tegger
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
Data point for the archive:
Firestone replaced both of my 91 Civic's original outer
boots in mid-2000 at 112,000 miles. I do not know the exact
condition of the original boots when Firestone called and
recommended replacement; I was not hip to what CV boots were
all about until the last year or so. I would bet money the
replacement boots are non-OEM.
For the last several years I have inspected the boots
closely during at least twice yearly oil changes. After
another 6.5 years and at 186.5 miles, so far so good.
Tegger's, JT's, and other's comments on aftermarket boots
seem sound to me, since I am aware from other parts that the
OEM Honda rubber used in general is superior to aftermarket.
But if one is not going to keep the car long, one might
want to consider aftermarket.
Firestone replaced both of my 91 Civic's original outer
boots in mid-2000 at 112,000 miles. I do not know the exact
condition of the original boots when Firestone called and
recommended replacement; I was not hip to what CV boots were
all about until the last year or so. I would bet money the
replacement boots are non-OEM.
For the last several years I have inspected the boots
closely during at least twice yearly oil changes. After
another 6.5 years and at 186.5 miles, so far so good.
Tegger's, JT's, and other's comments on aftermarket boots
seem sound to me, since I am aware from other parts that the
OEM Honda rubber used in general is superior to aftermarket.
But if one is not going to keep the car long, one might
want to consider aftermarket.
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
Data point for the archive:
Firestone replaced both of my 91 Civic's original outer
boots in mid-2000 at 112,000 miles. I do not know the exact
condition of the original boots when Firestone called and
recommended replacement; I was not hip to what CV boots were
all about until the last year or so. I would bet money the
replacement boots are non-OEM.
For the last several years I have inspected the boots
closely during at least twice yearly oil changes. After
another 6.5 years and at 186.5 miles, so far so good.
Tegger's, JT's, and other's comments on aftermarket boots
seem sound to me, since I am aware from other parts that the
OEM Honda rubber used in general is superior to aftermarket.
But if one is not going to keep the car long, one might
want to consider aftermarket.
Firestone replaced both of my 91 Civic's original outer
boots in mid-2000 at 112,000 miles. I do not know the exact
condition of the original boots when Firestone called and
recommended replacement; I was not hip to what CV boots were
all about until the last year or so. I would bet money the
replacement boots are non-OEM.
For the last several years I have inspected the boots
closely during at least twice yearly oil changes. After
another 6.5 years and at 186.5 miles, so far so good.
Tegger's, JT's, and other's comments on aftermarket boots
seem sound to me, since I am aware from other parts that the
OEM Honda rubber used in general is superior to aftermarket.
But if one is not going to keep the car long, one might
want to consider aftermarket.
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
Data point for the archive:
Firestone replaced both of my 91 Civic's original outer
boots in mid-2000 at 112,000 miles. I do not know the exact
condition of the original boots when Firestone called and
recommended replacement; I was not hip to what CV boots were
all about until the last year or so. I would bet money the
replacement boots are non-OEM.
For the last several years I have inspected the boots
closely during at least twice yearly oil changes. After
another 6.5 years and at 186.5 miles, so far so good.
Tegger's, JT's, and other's comments on aftermarket boots
seem sound to me, since I am aware from other parts that the
OEM Honda rubber used in general is superior to aftermarket.
But if one is not going to keep the car long, one might
want to consider aftermarket.
Firestone replaced both of my 91 Civic's original outer
boots in mid-2000 at 112,000 miles. I do not know the exact
condition of the original boots when Firestone called and
recommended replacement; I was not hip to what CV boots were
all about until the last year or so. I would bet money the
replacement boots are non-OEM.
For the last several years I have inspected the boots
closely during at least twice yearly oil changes. After
another 6.5 years and at 186.5 miles, so far so good.
Tegger's, JT's, and other's comments on aftermarket boots
seem sound to me, since I am aware from other parts that the
OEM Honda rubber used in general is superior to aftermarket.
But if one is not going to keep the car long, one might
want to consider aftermarket.
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
Data point for the archive:
Firestone replaced both of my 91 Civic's original outer
boots in mid-2000 at 112,000 miles. I do not know the exact
condition of the original boots when Firestone called and
recommended replacement; I was not hip to what CV boots were
all about until the last year or so. I would bet money the
replacement boots are non-OEM.
For the last several years I have inspected the boots
closely during at least twice yearly oil changes. After
another 6.5 years and at 186.5 miles, so far so good.
Tegger's, JT's, and other's comments on aftermarket boots
seem sound to me, since I am aware from other parts that the
OEM Honda rubber used in general is superior to aftermarket.
But if one is not going to keep the car long, one might
want to consider aftermarket.
Firestone replaced both of my 91 Civic's original outer
boots in mid-2000 at 112,000 miles. I do not know the exact
condition of the original boots when Firestone called and
recommended replacement; I was not hip to what CV boots were
all about until the last year or so. I would bet money the
replacement boots are non-OEM.
For the last several years I have inspected the boots
closely during at least twice yearly oil changes. After
another 6.5 years and at 186.5 miles, so far so good.
Tegger's, JT's, and other's comments on aftermarket boots
seem sound to me, since I am aware from other parts that the
OEM Honda rubber used in general is superior to aftermarket.
But if one is not going to keep the car long, one might
want to consider aftermarket.
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: CV boot replacement
I agree with all posts here. Don't waste your time with the "clam
shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
consuming, or difficult.
As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.
--Jeff
Tegger wrote:
> Peabody <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
> @newsfe17.lga:
>
> > Tegger says...
> >
> > > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > > from the joint.
> >
> > > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > > chipped or dented in any way.
> >
> > Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> > has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> > tires and front brakes.
> >
> > > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > > behind.
> >
> > What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> > fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> > don't think I can see them.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
> don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
> boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
>
> If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
> retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
> grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
>
> The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
> you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
shell" aftermarket boots. They never stay on and dirt gets in anyway.
Replacing the half-shaft, if necessary, is not that expensive, time
consuming, or difficult.
As a life prolonging tip, I now spray the boots liberally with silicone
spray every few thousand miles (usually when I am under the car doing
oil changes). It only takes a few seconds and anything to keep them
soft and flexible, and prevent them from drying out will help.
--Jeff
Tegger wrote:
> Peabody <waybackNO784SPAM44@yahoo.com> wrote in news:1iHhh.2500$RJ.1916
> @newsfe17.lga:
>
> > Tegger says...
> >
> > > If the joints are OEM it is definitely worth just
> > > replacing the boot -- IF the joint is still OK. You need
> > > to have an *experienced* mechanic listen for clicking
> > > from the joint.
> >
> > > And even if the joint passes the listen-test, it will
> > > still need to be inspected thoroughly once disassembled
> > > and cleaned to make sure the ***** and races are not
> > > chipped or dented in any way.
> >
> > Yes, this is all OEM. The car is 12 years old, but only
> > has 53K miles on it. I'm just now replacing the original
> > tires and front brakes.
> >
> > > If the joint is OEM and passes both inspections, replace
> > > BOTH boots with NEW OEM, NOT aftermarket! New OEM is
> > > more expensive, but the new OEM boots last well over ten
> > > years, and your OEM joints will outlast them. And if one
> > > side is torn now, it's a sure bet the other won't be far
> > > behind.
> >
> > What about the inner boots? Do they not usually fail as
> > fast? The mechanic didn't say anything about them, and I
> > don't think I can see them.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> The inner boots will outlast the outers by several times. The inner boots
> don't undergo the steering stresses that kill the outer boots. It's not a
> boad idea to repack the inners with grease once every ten years, though.
>
> If your OEM outer joints are still good, it would be *very* wise of you to
> retain them, with new OEM boots (about $40 each, plus the bands and
> grease). OEM CV joints are exceedingly high-quality.
>
> The new OEM boots will last a dozen years easily, so this may be the last
> you'll ever have to be concerned about the driveshafts.
>
> --
> Tegger
>
> The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
> www.tegger.com/hondafaq/