I had one go out at around 100K and the other around 130K. Its easy
to see it, just look under the car and look at the drive mechanism
that goes to the wheels. The rubber boot will be split.

A symptom is hearing a clicking noise when you go through a tight
turn.

As I recall I paid either $200 or $300 per boot. You replace it with
a rebuilt one.

Supposedly you can just replace the rubber but that requires more
labor to take it all apart - so rebuilt ones seem like a logical
approach.

 

rynniki wrote:
> i guess you havent read my previous posts lately,they did not replace the
> axles in the first place when they were torn before we bought the car,my
> rotors were bad i looked at them,just because i am a girl doesnt mean i
> dont know about cars,

please don't flame - i made no such assertion.

>plus part prices are different everywhere in the
> u.s. depending were you live!!!!!

agreed, but with respect, shopping around saves money. if you can buy
the parts online for the prices i quoted, genuine honda parts from a
honda dealer, it helps you negotiate a better price. take printouts of
majestic honda's prices with you next time you need work done & see how
it affects the prices you get quoted. /this is a suggestion, not a
criticism./ works wonders for me.

> it's done and over with now.....,and to
> let you know also is labor is 75/hour in md.,but for now i still dont have
> the car back its still there the parts people kept bringing the wrong
> axle,and then the axle shaft was too short,too much drama for 2 days

if the car's ever had a front end collision and has not been repaired
well, it's common for the engine to sit slightly askew and for a shaft
to appear "too short". investigate this & check into getting a cheap &
dirty "reallignment" of the engine in the bay. doesn't need to look
pretty, just make sure the engine sits better. this should have been
checked before the work was commenced.

 

rynniki wrote:
> i guess you havent read my previous posts lately,they did not replace the
> axles in the first place when they were torn before we bought the car,my
> rotors were bad i looked at them,just because i am a girl doesnt mean i
> dont know about cars,

please don't flame - i made no such assertion.

>plus part prices are different everywhere in the
> u.s. depending were you live!!!!!

agreed, but with respect, shopping around saves money. if you can buy
the parts online for the prices i quoted, genuine honda parts from a
honda dealer, it helps you negotiate a better price. take printouts of
majestic honda's prices with you next time you need work done & see how
it affects the prices you get quoted. /this is a suggestion, not a
criticism./ works wonders for me.

> it's done and over with now.....,and to
> let you know also is labor is 75/hour in md.,but for now i still dont have
> the car back its still there the parts people kept bringing the wrong
> axle,and then the axle shaft was too short,too much drama for 2 days

if the car's ever had a front end collision and has not been repaired
well, it's common for the engine to sit slightly askew and for a shaft
to appear "too short". investigate this & check into getting a cheap &
dirty "reallignment" of the engine in the bay. doesn't need to look
pretty, just make sure the engine sits better. this should have been
checked before the work was commenced.

 

sorry. no the car has never been in an accident.i got her back last
night,so far so good ,but i do have a question about abs brakes i think
thats what i have,to me the brakes feel soft ,i dont remember them feeling
this way,maybe cause i havent driven it in 2 days,but do brakes feel funny
after new rotors? i dont want to spend anymore money

 

sorry. no the car has never been in an accident.i got her back last
night,so far so good ,but i do have a question about abs brakes i think
thats what i have,to me the brakes feel soft ,i dont remember them feeling
this way,maybe cause i havent driven it in 2 days,but do brakes feel funny
after new rotors? i dont want to spend anymore money

 

"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:281c44d0dbdc7bdbacf9c5dee8612088@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> sorry. no the car has never been in an accident.i got her back last
> night,so far so good ,but i do have a question about abs brakes i think
> thats what i have,to me the brakes feel soft ,i dont remember them feeling
> this way,maybe cause i havent driven it in 2 days,but do brakes feel funny
> after new rotors? i dont want to spend anymore money
>
No - they should feel about the way they did before. Time for a trip back to
the mechanic. A good mechanic welcomes the chance to take another look at
the work he's done if there might be a problem, and looking at the calipers
he had to move out of the way is easy for him. The last time this happened
to me was because I took the caliper off and the pads out to deglaze them,
then reassembled without relubricating the slide pins. (That's probably what
your mechanic did, since it would be a reasonable place to draw the line as
to how much to check - the brakes are easy to get to and touching them any
more than he had to risked stirring up the evil spirits.) One slide pin was
rusted solid and when I reassembled the brakes that side never grabbed - the
pedal was soft and I could turn that wheel by hand when the brakes were all
the way down!

If you use your best conciliatory manner you may get this as a freebie even
though it probably wasn't strictly speaking his fault. It sounds like he's
been working with you to keep the labor down so far.

Best of luck!

Mike

Mike

 

"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:281c44d0dbdc7bdbacf9c5dee8612088@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> sorry. no the car has never been in an accident.i got her back last
> night,so far so good ,but i do have a question about abs brakes i think
> thats what i have,to me the brakes feel soft ,i dont remember them feeling
> this way,maybe cause i havent driven it in 2 days,but do brakes feel funny
> after new rotors? i dont want to spend anymore money
>
No - they should feel about the way they did before. Time for a trip back to
the mechanic. A good mechanic welcomes the chance to take another look at
the work he's done if there might be a problem, and looking at the calipers
he had to move out of the way is easy for him. The last time this happened
to me was because I took the caliper off and the pads out to deglaze them,
then reassembled without relubricating the slide pins. (That's probably what
your mechanic did, since it would be a reasonable place to draw the line as
to how much to check - the brakes are easy to get to and touching them any
more than he had to risked stirring up the evil spirits.) One slide pin was
rusted solid and when I reassembled the brakes that side never grabbed - the
pedal was soft and I could turn that wheel by hand when the brakes were all
the way down!

If you use your best conciliatory manner you may get this as a freebie even
though it probably wasn't strictly speaking his fault. It sounds like he's
been working with you to keep the labor down so far.

Best of luck!

Mike

Mike

 

i went back this morning he readjusted the rear brakes beacuse the front
was fine ,and the guy who usually works on the car said they were fine,i
think its because i forgot how they felt cause i havent driven in 2 days

 

i went back this morning he readjusted the rear brakes beacuse the front
was fine ,and the guy who usually works on the car said they were fine,i
think its because i forgot how they felt cause i havent driven in 2 days

 

how much are brakes usually? and how about a master cylinder if i ever need
one?

 

how much are brakes usually? and how about a master cylinder if i ever need
one?

 

"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:58cf20a09fd60f14bc0d0984daafc91c@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> how much are brakes usually? and how about a master cylinder if i ever
> need
> one?
>
Roughly, new "linings" (the friction parts that wear out, pads for disk
brakes and shoes for drum brakes) are about $100 parts and labor for each
axle; that is, that much for the front and that much for the back. The front
wears faster than the rear because it does more of the work in stopping the
car (the weight shifts forward when braking). Figure about the same for the
master cylinder. The master cylinder usually is left alone until it starts
acting up - usually the pedal gets soft or sinks when you are stopped.

Most brake shops will do free brake inspections in hopes of getting the job
if something is bad, and that can be a good way of making sure the brake
linings don't wear out completely. When they do, you get metal to metal
contact and the rotors or (in the rear axle) drums are damaged. Drums
screech when the shoes wear out that far, while disk brakes make an
unmistakable grinding sound when you step on the pedal. Now that you have
new rotors (disks) in the front, you definitely don't want to wait for the
last minute to replace the linings (like you'd want to otherwise... not!).
When the friction material gets down to about 1/8 inch it's time to get new
ones. 1/16th inch is really pressing your luck.

The mechanic who did the front axles can give you an estimate of how soon
you should have the brakes rechecked for wear. I'm sure it won't be soon or
he would have recommended new pads while he had it apart.

Mike

 

"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:58cf20a09fd60f14bc0d0984daafc91c@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> how much are brakes usually? and how about a master cylinder if i ever
> need
> one?
>
Roughly, new "linings" (the friction parts that wear out, pads for disk
brakes and shoes for drum brakes) are about $100 parts and labor for each
axle; that is, that much for the front and that much for the back. The front
wears faster than the rear because it does more of the work in stopping the
car (the weight shifts forward when braking). Figure about the same for the
master cylinder. The master cylinder usually is left alone until it starts
acting up - usually the pedal gets soft or sinks when you are stopped.

Most brake shops will do free brake inspections in hopes of getting the job
if something is bad, and that can be a good way of making sure the brake
linings don't wear out completely. When they do, you get metal to metal
contact and the rotors or (in the rear axle) drums are damaged. Drums
screech when the shoes wear out that far, while disk brakes make an
unmistakable grinding sound when you step on the pedal. Now that you have
new rotors (disks) in the front, you definitely don't want to wait for the
last minute to replace the linings (like you'd want to otherwise... not!).
When the friction material gets down to about 1/8 inch it's time to get new
ones. 1/16th inch is really pressing your luck.

The mechanic who did the front axles can give you an estimate of how soon
you should have the brakes rechecked for wear. I'm sure it won't be soon or
he would have recommended new pads while he had it apart.

Mike

 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
news:ttOdnbaxgPDU1KffRVn-2w@sedona.net...
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
> news:1111069814.308af121deb027854857b7c817844313@t eranews...
>>
>> in my experience, that's pretty lucky, particularly for vehicles that
>> have been anywhere near the rust belt. the only 100% reliable way to
>> seperate the ball joint without damaging anything is to use a tool like
>> this:
>>
>> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
>>
>> this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and /completely/
>> reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the cost of
>> sweating & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause damage and
>> still may not work.
>>
> Thanks a million for the link! I ordered one tonight so I won't suffer as
> much the next time (I think my Volvo is next... something is loose in the
> right front). One thing I like about it is that even if the leverage can't
> quite convince the taper pin to let go, I can leave it in place and
> holding pressure while I rap on the side of the receptacle with the air
> hammer to upset the fit. It also has a relieved area for the boot,
> eliminating the worry about tearing the boot.
>
The tool arrived today, and it looks good to me. The threads are stout and a
good fit, the metal is heavy and the adaptability looks good. I have to
investigate shaking in the right front of my old Volvo soon - I'll give this
a try if the occasion comes up.

Mike

 

"Michael Pardee" <michaeltnull@cybertrails.com> wrote in message
news:ttOdnbaxgPDU1KffRVn-2w@sedona.net...
> "jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
> news:1111069814.308af121deb027854857b7c817844313@t eranews...
>>
>> in my experience, that's pretty lucky, particularly for vehicles that
>> have been anywhere near the rust belt. the only 100% reliable way to
>> seperate the ball joint without damaging anything is to use a tool like
>> this:
>>
>> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
>>
>> this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and /completely/
>> reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the cost of
>> sweating & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause damage and
>> still may not work.
>>
> Thanks a million for the link! I ordered one tonight so I won't suffer as
> much the next time (I think my Volvo is next... something is loose in the
> right front). One thing I like about it is that even if the leverage can't
> quite convince the taper pin to let go, I can leave it in place and
> holding pressure while I rap on the side of the receptacle with the air
> hammer to upset the fit. It also has a relieved area for the boot,
> eliminating the worry about tearing the boot.
>
The tool arrived today, and it looks good to me. The threads are stout and a
good fit, the metal is heavy and the adaptability looks good. I have to
investigate shaking in the right front of my old Volvo soon - I'll give this
a try if the occasion comes up.

Mike