"TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> wrote in message
news:Xns961C680CB8B25tegger@207.14.113.17...
> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in
> news:1111069814.308af121deb027854857b7c817844313@t eranews:
>
>
>> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
>>
>> this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and
>> /completely/ reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the
>> cost of sweating & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause
>> damage and still may not work.
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Wonderful link!! It's such an easy addition that I've already put it into
> the FAQ.
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints
>
> As far as I'm concerned, the price of $48 US is peanuts for something that
> makes a super-ugly job an easy one.
>
> Thanks.
>
Oh, yeah! $48 sounds like a lot for a special-purpose tool... until you are
trying to separate the durned thing without it! Then it starts sounding real
cheap.

Mike

 

"TeGGer®" <tegger@istop.c0m> wrote in message
news:Xns961C680CB8B25tegger@207.14.113.17...
> jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in
> news:1111069814.308af121deb027854857b7c817844313@t eranews:
>
>
>> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
>>
>> this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and
>> /completely/ reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the
>> cost of sweating & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause
>> damage and still may not work.
>>
>>
>
>
>
> Wonderful link!! It's such an easy addition that I've already put it into
> the FAQ.
> http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints
>
> As far as I'm concerned, the price of $48 US is peanuts for something that
> makes a super-ugly job an easy one.
>
> Thanks.
>
Oh, yeah! $48 sounds like a lot for a special-purpose tool... until you are
trying to separate the durned thing without it! Then it starts sounding real
cheap.

Mike

 

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:1111070267.476cde336bce9750af49d6a4eac4cc26@t eranews...
> rynniki wrote:
>> another thing can the leaking boots cause the bearing or hub to go bad?
>> one
>> person i talked to said yes and another one said no.please help i dont
>> want
>> to put more money out than i have to
>
> the axle failure rarely causes the bearing to go bad, but it's not
> uncommon for bearings to be ruined by the axle guy pounding on the axle
> stub - brinells the bearing races.
>
> if you can, find someone that knows what they're doing & you should have
> no problems. grease leakage does /not/ effect the bearing.
>

In my experience, people who charge relatively little for a job like this
are simply experienced or skilled enough to make it look easy. I think this
one will go well.

Mike

 

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:1111070267.476cde336bce9750af49d6a4eac4cc26@t eranews...
> rynniki wrote:
>> another thing can the leaking boots cause the bearing or hub to go bad?
>> one
>> person i talked to said yes and another one said no.please help i dont
>> want
>> to put more money out than i have to
>
> the axle failure rarely causes the bearing to go bad, but it's not
> uncommon for bearings to be ruined by the axle guy pounding on the axle
> stub - brinells the bearing races.
>
> if you can, find someone that knows what they're doing & you should have
> no problems. grease leakage does /not/ effect the bearing.
>

In my experience, people who charge relatively little for a job like this
are simply experienced or skilled enough to make it look easy. I think this
one will go well.

Mike

 

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:1111069814.308af121deb027854857b7c817844313@t eranews...
>
> in my experience, that's pretty lucky, particularly for vehicles that have
> been anywhere near the rust belt. the only 100% reliable way to seperate
> the ball joint without damaging anything is to use a tool like this:
>
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
>
> this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and /completely/
> reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the cost of sweating
> & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause damage and still may
> not work.
>
Thanks a million for the link! I ordered one tonight so I won't suffer as
much the next time (I think my Volvo is next... something is loose in the
right front). One thing I like about it is that even if the leverage can't
quite convince the taper pin to let go, I can leave it in place and holding
pressure while I rap on the side of the receptacle with the air hammer to
upset the fit. It also has a relieved area for the boot, eliminating the
worry about tearing the boot.

I completely agree about the worry of causing damage and still failing - the
twin terrors of auto repair.

Mike

 

"jim beam" <nospam@example.net> wrote in message
news:1111069814.308af121deb027854857b7c817844313@t eranews...
>
> in my experience, that's pretty lucky, particularly for vehicles that have
> been anywhere near the rust belt. the only 100% reliable way to seperate
> the ball joint without damaging anything is to use a tool like this:
>
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
>
> this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and /completely/
> reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the cost of sweating
> & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause damage and still may
> not work.
>
Thanks a million for the link! I ordered one tonight so I won't suffer as
much the next time (I think my Volvo is next... something is loose in the
right front). One thing I like about it is that even if the leverage can't
quite convince the taper pin to let go, I can leave it in place and holding
pressure while I rap on the side of the receptacle with the air hammer to
upset the fit. It also has a relieved area for the boot, eliminating the
worry about tearing the boot.

I completely agree about the worry of causing damage and still failing - the
twin terrors of auto repair.

Mike

 

Well here is the outcome,they suspected the axles that were supposed to be
only 2 years were never changed,i needed new bearings,new rotors,2
axles,the final cost with oil change and oil plug and washer was 1100.00
and he only charged me 250 for labor,he is a great guy he looks out for
me,and also he showed me everything that was wrong before he ordered
everything,he has helped me out in the past before for hardly anything,but
at least i have everything new.

 

Well here is the outcome,they suspected the axles that were supposed to be
only 2 years were never changed,i needed new bearings,new rotors,2
axles,the final cost with oil change and oil plug and washer was 1100.00
and he only charged me 250 for labor,he is a great guy he looks out for
me,and also he showed me everything that was wrong before he ordered
everything,he has helped me out in the past before for hardly anything,but
at least i have everything new.

 

"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:2f68cee23e05ec14954ebc28e81d0172@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Well here is the outcome,they suspected the axles that were supposed to be
> only 2 years were never changed,i needed new bearings,new rotors,2
> axles,the final cost with oil change and oil plug and washer was 1100.00
> and he only charged me 250 for labor,he is a great guy he looks out for
> me,and also he showed me everything that was wrong before he ordered
> everything,he has helped me out in the past before for hardly anything,but
> at least i have everything new.
>
Glad to hear of the good outcome, sad to hear the axles weren't changed to
start with. Grr!

You are ahead of the game now (even $1100 poorer - you'll recover from that
long before you have to go through that again). I know the rotors and
bearings are fairly expensive, but getting those done while everything is
apart saves paying for labor a second time.

Mike

 

"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:2f68cee23e05ec14954ebc28e81d0172@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> Well here is the outcome,they suspected the axles that were supposed to be
> only 2 years were never changed,i needed new bearings,new rotors,2
> axles,the final cost with oil change and oil plug and washer was 1100.00
> and he only charged me 250 for labor,he is a great guy he looks out for
> me,and also he showed me everything that was wrong before he ordered
> everything,he has helped me out in the past before for hardly anything,but
> at least i have everything new.
>
Glad to hear of the good outcome, sad to hear the axles weren't changed to
start with. Grr!

You are ahead of the game now (even $1100 poorer - you'll recover from that
long before you have to go through that again). I know the rotors and
bearings are fairly expensive, but getting those done while everything is
apart saves paying for labor a second time.

Mike

 

Michael Pardee wrote:
> "rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
> news:2f68cee23e05ec14954ebc28e81d0172@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>
>>Well here is the outcome,they suspected the axles that were supposed to be
>>only 2 years were never changed,i needed new bearings,new rotors,2
>>axles,the final cost with oil change and oil plug and washer was 1100.00
>>and he only charged me 250 for labor,he is a great guy he looks out for
>>me,and also he showed me everything that was wrong before he ordered
>>everything,he has helped me out in the past before for hardly anything,but
>>at least i have everything new.
>>
>
> Glad to hear of the good outcome, sad to hear the axles weren't changed to
> start with. Grr!
>
> You are ahead of the game now (even $1100 poorer - you'll recover from that
> long before you have to go through that again). I know the rotors and
> bearings are fairly expensive, but getting those done while everything is
> apart saves paying for labor a second time.
>
> Mike

hmm, i guess you can say it's good that they'll not have to do this
again, but at the risk of sounding like a whiner, honestly, how many
hondas do you know that genuinely need /two/ new bearings plus rotors at
only 120k? this is not a ford. $1100? bearings are $60 each, less if
you go to the bearing store. rotors about $50 each. decent quality
driveshafts are about $120 each. plus $250 labor, i still only make
that a $710 job, and i think about $220 of that is unnecessary.

 

Michael Pardee wrote:
> "rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
> news:2f68cee23e05ec14954ebc28e81d0172@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
>
>>Well here is the outcome,they suspected the axles that were supposed to be
>>only 2 years were never changed,i needed new bearings,new rotors,2
>>axles,the final cost with oil change and oil plug and washer was 1100.00
>>and he only charged me 250 for labor,he is a great guy he looks out for
>>me,and also he showed me everything that was wrong before he ordered
>>everything,he has helped me out in the past before for hardly anything,but
>>at least i have everything new.
>>
>
> Glad to hear of the good outcome, sad to hear the axles weren't changed to
> start with. Grr!
>
> You are ahead of the game now (even $1100 poorer - you'll recover from that
> long before you have to go through that again). I know the rotors and
> bearings are fairly expensive, but getting those done while everything is
> apart saves paying for labor a second time.
>
> Mike

hmm, i guess you can say it's good that they'll not have to do this
again, but at the risk of sounding like a whiner, honestly, how many
hondas do you know that genuinely need /two/ new bearings plus rotors at
only 120k? this is not a ford. $1100? bearings are $60 each, less if
you go to the bearing store. rotors about $50 each. decent quality
driveshafts are about $120 each. plus $250 labor, i still only make
that a $710 job, and i think about $220 of that is unnecessary.

 

i guess you havent read my previous posts lately,they did not replace the
axles in the first place when they were torn before we bought the car,my
rotors were bad i looked at them,just because i am a girl doesnt mean i
dont know about cars,plus part prices are different everywhere in the
u.s. depending were you live!!!!! it's done and over with now.....,and to
let you know also is labor is 75/hour in md.,but for now i still dont have
the car back its still there the parts people kept bringing the wrong
axle,and then the axle shaft was too short,too much drama for 2 days

 

i guess you havent read my previous posts lately,they did not replace the
axles in the first place when they were torn before we bought the car,my
rotors were bad i looked at them,just because i am a girl doesnt mean i
dont know about cars,plus part prices are different everywhere in the
u.s. depending were you live!!!!! it's done and over with now.....,and to
let you know also is labor is 75/hour in md.,but for now i still dont have
the car back its still there the parts people kept bringing the wrong
axle,and then the axle shaft was too short,too much drama for 2 days

 

I had one go out at around 100K and the other around 130K. Its easy
to see it, just look under the car and look at the drive mechanism
that goes to the wheels. The rubber boot will be split.

A symptom is hearing a clicking noise when you go through a tight
turn.

As I recall I paid either $200 or $300 per boot. You replace it with
a rebuilt one.

Supposedly you can just replace the rubber but that requires more
labor to take it all apart - so rebuilt ones seem like a logical
approach.