cv boot or cv joint
03-16-2005 | 10:40 PM
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:9582377de60bb3b9f18a123c2f3ccbf0@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> wonder why they told me they hope my hub or bearing isnt bad because of
> the
> grease leaking from the boot
>
Well, I hope they aren't bad, either :-) But I'm certain they aren't. I've
seen a bunch of bad CV joint boots but I've never even seen the grease get
on the brake disc, much less damage the hub. Don't worry about it.
Maybe they have seen a hub that was damaged when the axle was replaced and
the axle nut not torqued enough afterward. (The fit doesn't slack off when
the axle fails - it has to be when it is disassembled.) The guilty mechanic
may have tried to pass off the damage to the hub as being from the axle, but
what happens is that the spline fit of the axle to the hub starts wallowing
out if the nut isn't properly torqued... proper torque is somewhere over 100
ft-lbs; very tight. If so, that mechanic deserves coal in his stocking (why
wait 'til Christmas for that?) for not owning up to his mistake. The failure
shows up initially as creaking from the wheel, progressing to loss of drive
as the axle starts spinning in the hub. The only fix then is to replace both
parts.
Mike
news:9582377de60bb3b9f18a123c2f3ccbf0@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> wonder why they told me they hope my hub or bearing isnt bad because of
> the
> grease leaking from the boot
>
Well, I hope they aren't bad, either :-) But I'm certain they aren't. I've
seen a bunch of bad CV joint boots but I've never even seen the grease get
on the brake disc, much less damage the hub. Don't worry about it.
Maybe they have seen a hub that was damaged when the axle was replaced and
the axle nut not torqued enough afterward. (The fit doesn't slack off when
the axle fails - it has to be when it is disassembled.) The guilty mechanic
may have tried to pass off the damage to the hub as being from the axle, but
what happens is that the spline fit of the axle to the hub starts wallowing
out if the nut isn't properly torqued... proper torque is somewhere over 100
ft-lbs; very tight. If so, that mechanic deserves coal in his stocking (why
wait 'til Christmas for that?) for not owning up to his mistake. The failure
shows up initially as creaking from the wheel, progressing to loss of drive
as the axle starts spinning in the hub. The only fix then is to replace both
parts.
Mike
03-16-2005 | 10:40 PM
#33
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"rynniki" <rynniki@wmconnect.com> wrote in message
news:9582377de60bb3b9f18a123c2f3ccbf0@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> wonder why they told me they hope my hub or bearing isnt bad because of
> the
> grease leaking from the boot
>
Well, I hope they aren't bad, either :-) But I'm certain they aren't. I've
seen a bunch of bad CV joint boots but I've never even seen the grease get
on the brake disc, much less damage the hub. Don't worry about it.
Maybe they have seen a hub that was damaged when the axle was replaced and
the axle nut not torqued enough afterward. (The fit doesn't slack off when
the axle fails - it has to be when it is disassembled.) The guilty mechanic
may have tried to pass off the damage to the hub as being from the axle, but
what happens is that the spline fit of the axle to the hub starts wallowing
out if the nut isn't properly torqued... proper torque is somewhere over 100
ft-lbs; very tight. If so, that mechanic deserves coal in his stocking (why
wait 'til Christmas for that?) for not owning up to his mistake. The failure
shows up initially as creaking from the wheel, progressing to loss of drive
as the axle starts spinning in the hub. The only fix then is to replace both
parts.
Mike
news:9582377de60bb3b9f18a123c2f3ccbf0@localhost.ta lkaboutautos.com...
> wonder why they told me they hope my hub or bearing isnt bad because of
> the
> grease leaking from the boot
>
Well, I hope they aren't bad, either :-) But I'm certain they aren't. I've
seen a bunch of bad CV joint boots but I've never even seen the grease get
on the brake disc, much less damage the hub. Don't worry about it.
Maybe they have seen a hub that was damaged when the axle was replaced and
the axle nut not torqued enough afterward. (The fit doesn't slack off when
the axle fails - it has to be when it is disassembled.) The guilty mechanic
may have tried to pass off the damage to the hub as being from the axle, but
what happens is that the spline fit of the axle to the hub starts wallowing
out if the nut isn't properly torqued... proper torque is somewhere over 100
ft-lbs; very tight. If so, that mechanic deserves coal in his stocking (why
wait 'til Christmas for that?) for not owning up to his mistake. The failure
shows up initially as creaking from the wheel, progressing to loss of drive
as the axle starts spinning in the hub. The only fix then is to replace both
parts.
Mike
03-17-2005 | 12:24 AM
#34
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"> I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on both
> sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
> Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the
> axle nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand
> tools) and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do
> without tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have
> "the touch").
The "touch" with the ball joint is using a big hammer on it. Just hit it on
the front after loosening the bolt a few turns. I was leery of doing this
until a mechanic at my dealer told me he did them this way. If the dealer
tech does it, it should be OK for a DIY job. Since the ball joint stud is
tapered, hitting the part it goes through causes it to pop out. At least it
did for me. Also, I had no problem with the axle nut on my Civic using a
cheater bar on a 1/2" ratchet. YMMV.
WW
03-17-2005 | 12:24 AM
#35
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"> I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on both
> sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
> Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the
> axle nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand
> tools) and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do
> without tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have
> "the touch").
The "touch" with the ball joint is using a big hammer on it. Just hit it on
the front after loosening the bolt a few turns. I was leery of doing this
until a mechanic at my dealer told me he did them this way. If the dealer
tech does it, it should be OK for a DIY job. Since the ball joint stud is
tapered, hitting the part it goes through causes it to pop out. At least it
did for me. Also, I had no problem with the axle nut on my Civic using a
cheater bar on a 1/2" ratchet. YMMV.
WW
03-17-2005 | 07:25 AM
#38
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"WaterWatcher" <replytogroup@donotmail.com> wrote in message
news:VoOdnXeTA8PliaTfRVn-qg@comcast.com...
>
> "> I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on
> both
>> sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
>> Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the
>> axle nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand
>> tools) and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do
>> without tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have
>> "the touch").
>
> The "touch" with the ball joint is using a big hammer on it. Just hit it
> on the front after loosening the bolt a few turns. I was leery of doing
> this until a mechanic at my dealer told me he did them this way. If the
> dealer tech does it, it should be OK for a DIY job. Since the ball joint
> stud is tapered, hitting the part it goes through causes it to pop out.
> At least it did for me. Also, I had no problem with the axle nut on my
> Civic using a cheater bar on a 1/2" ratchet. YMMV.
>
> WW
>
I didn't see room to swing a hammer in a direction that would do any good,
but I tried an air hammer with a 4 lb hammer as an anvil. No joy. Eventually
I used an air chisel as a pickle fork type wedge on the area where the two
pieces overlapped beside the ball joint boot and that got it. The impact
wrench made the axle nut easy, especially after using the air chisel to
unstake the nut :-) Usually a humungous cheater bar will get the axle nut
loose okay, but the first time it's done on a Honda can bring tears to your
eyes. I swear the factory must put Superglue in all their threads.
I suppose the tight nut is better than the alternatives. My older son's
first car was an old Subaru that had the hub destruction I described to
"rynniki". (That's how I knew so much about it!) The wheel creaked when we
bought the car and it took a while to figure out what was going on. The axle
nut didn't resist when we removed it, and the worn splines inside told the
rest of the story. We tried greasing the splines to slow the destruction
process but it didn't help much.
Mike
news:VoOdnXeTA8PliaTfRVn-qg@comcast.com...
>
> "> I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on
> both
>> sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
>> Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the
>> axle nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand
>> tools) and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do
>> without tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have
>> "the touch").
>
> The "touch" with the ball joint is using a big hammer on it. Just hit it
> on the front after loosening the bolt a few turns. I was leery of doing
> this until a mechanic at my dealer told me he did them this way. If the
> dealer tech does it, it should be OK for a DIY job. Since the ball joint
> stud is tapered, hitting the part it goes through causes it to pop out.
> At least it did for me. Also, I had no problem with the axle nut on my
> Civic using a cheater bar on a 1/2" ratchet. YMMV.
>
> WW
>
I didn't see room to swing a hammer in a direction that would do any good,
but I tried an air hammer with a 4 lb hammer as an anvil. No joy. Eventually
I used an air chisel as a pickle fork type wedge on the area where the two
pieces overlapped beside the ball joint boot and that got it. The impact
wrench made the axle nut easy, especially after using the air chisel to
unstake the nut :-) Usually a humungous cheater bar will get the axle nut
loose okay, but the first time it's done on a Honda can bring tears to your
eyes. I swear the factory must put Superglue in all their threads.
I suppose the tight nut is better than the alternatives. My older son's
first car was an old Subaru that had the hub destruction I described to
"rynniki". (That's how I knew so much about it!) The wheel creaked when we
bought the car and it took a while to figure out what was going on. The axle
nut didn't resist when we removed it, and the worn splines inside told the
rest of the story. We tried greasing the splines to slow the destruction
process but it didn't help much.
Mike
03-17-2005 | 07:25 AM
#39
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
"WaterWatcher" <replytogroup@donotmail.com> wrote in message
news:VoOdnXeTA8PliaTfRVn-qg@comcast.com...
>
> "> I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on
> both
>> sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
>> Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the
>> axle nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand
>> tools) and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do
>> without tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have
>> "the touch").
>
> The "touch" with the ball joint is using a big hammer on it. Just hit it
> on the front after loosening the bolt a few turns. I was leery of doing
> this until a mechanic at my dealer told me he did them this way. If the
> dealer tech does it, it should be OK for a DIY job. Since the ball joint
> stud is tapered, hitting the part it goes through causes it to pop out.
> At least it did for me. Also, I had no problem with the axle nut on my
> Civic using a cheater bar on a 1/2" ratchet. YMMV.
>
> WW
>
I didn't see room to swing a hammer in a direction that would do any good,
but I tried an air hammer with a 4 lb hammer as an anvil. No joy. Eventually
I used an air chisel as a pickle fork type wedge on the area where the two
pieces overlapped beside the ball joint boot and that got it. The impact
wrench made the axle nut easy, especially after using the air chisel to
unstake the nut :-) Usually a humungous cheater bar will get the axle nut
loose okay, but the first time it's done on a Honda can bring tears to your
eyes. I swear the factory must put Superglue in all their threads.
I suppose the tight nut is better than the alternatives. My older son's
first car was an old Subaru that had the hub destruction I described to
"rynniki". (That's how I knew so much about it!) The wheel creaked when we
bought the car and it took a while to figure out what was going on. The axle
nut didn't resist when we removed it, and the worn splines inside told the
rest of the story. We tried greasing the splines to slow the destruction
process but it didn't help much.
Mike
news:VoOdnXeTA8PliaTfRVn-qg@comcast.com...
>
> "> I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on
> both
>> sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
>> Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the
>> axle nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand
>> tools) and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do
>> without tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have
>> "the touch").
>
> The "touch" with the ball joint is using a big hammer on it. Just hit it
> on the front after loosening the bolt a few turns. I was leery of doing
> this until a mechanic at my dealer told me he did them this way. If the
> dealer tech does it, it should be OK for a DIY job. Since the ball joint
> stud is tapered, hitting the part it goes through causes it to pop out.
> At least it did for me. Also, I had no problem with the axle nut on my
> Civic using a cheater bar on a 1/2" ratchet. YMMV.
>
> WW
>
I didn't see room to swing a hammer in a direction that would do any good,
but I tried an air hammer with a 4 lb hammer as an anvil. No joy. Eventually
I used an air chisel as a pickle fork type wedge on the area where the two
pieces overlapped beside the ball joint boot and that got it. The impact
wrench made the axle nut easy, especially after using the air chisel to
unstake the nut :-) Usually a humungous cheater bar will get the axle nut
loose okay, but the first time it's done on a Honda can bring tears to your
eyes. I swear the factory must put Superglue in all their threads.
I suppose the tight nut is better than the alternatives. My older son's
first car was an old Subaru that had the hub destruction I described to
"rynniki". (That's how I knew so much about it!) The wheel creaked when we
bought the car and it took a while to figure out what was going on. The axle
nut didn't resist when we removed it, and the worn splines inside told the
rest of the story. We tried greasing the splines to slow the destruction
process but it didn't help much.
Mike
03-17-2005 | 09:30 AM
#40
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
WaterWatcher wrote:
> "> I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on both
>
>>sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
>>Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the
>>axle nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand
>>tools) and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do
>>without tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have
>>"the touch").
>
>
> The "touch" with the ball joint is using a big hammer on it. Just hit it on
> the front after loosening the bolt a few turns. I was leery of doing this
> until a mechanic at my dealer told me he did them this way. If the dealer
> tech does it, it should be OK for a DIY job. Since the ball joint stud is
> tapered, hitting the part it goes through causes it to pop out. At least it
> did for me. Also, I had no problem with the axle nut on my Civic using a
> cheater bar on a 1/2" ratchet. YMMV.
>
> WW
in my experience, that's pretty lucky, particularly for vehicles that
have been anywhere near the rust belt. the only 100% reliable way to
seperate the ball joint without damaging anything is to use a tool like
this:
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and /completely/
reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the cost of
sweating & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause damage and
still may not work.
> "> I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on both
>
>>sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
>>Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the
>>axle nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand
>>tools) and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do
>>without tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have
>>"the touch").
>
>
> The "touch" with the ball joint is using a big hammer on it. Just hit it on
> the front after loosening the bolt a few turns. I was leery of doing this
> until a mechanic at my dealer told me he did them this way. If the dealer
> tech does it, it should be OK for a DIY job. Since the ball joint stud is
> tapered, hitting the part it goes through causes it to pop out. At least it
> did for me. Also, I had no problem with the axle nut on my Civic using a
> cheater bar on a 1/2" ratchet. YMMV.
>
> WW
in my experience, that's pretty lucky, particularly for vehicles that
have been anywhere near the rust belt. the only 100% reliable way to
seperate the ball joint without damaging anything is to use a tool like
this:
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and /completely/
reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the cost of
sweating & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause damage and
still may not work.
03-17-2005 | 09:30 AM
#41
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
WaterWatcher wrote:
> "> I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on both
>
>>sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
>>Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the
>>axle nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand
>>tools) and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do
>>without tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have
>>"the touch").
>
>
> The "touch" with the ball joint is using a big hammer on it. Just hit it on
> the front after loosening the bolt a few turns. I was leery of doing this
> until a mechanic at my dealer told me he did them this way. If the dealer
> tech does it, it should be OK for a DIY job. Since the ball joint stud is
> tapered, hitting the part it goes through causes it to pop out. At least it
> did for me. Also, I had no problem with the axle nut on my Civic using a
> cheater bar on a 1/2" ratchet. YMMV.
>
> WW
in my experience, that's pretty lucky, particularly for vehicles that
have been anywhere near the rust belt. the only 100% reliable way to
seperate the ball joint without damaging anything is to use a tool like
this:
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and /completely/
reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the cost of
sweating & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause damage and
still may not work.
> "> I've recently done one on a '93 Accord (and then had to do rotors on both
>
>>sides, which is essentially the same job... curse me) and both on a '94
>>Integra. The tough parts are the same on both - unstake the dog on the
>>axle nut and get the axle nut off (easy with air tools, a devil with hand
>>tools) and separate the taper pin on the lower ball joint (tough to do
>>without tearing the ball joint boot even with air tools, unless you have
>>"the touch").
>
>
> The "touch" with the ball joint is using a big hammer on it. Just hit it on
> the front after loosening the bolt a few turns. I was leery of doing this
> until a mechanic at my dealer told me he did them this way. If the dealer
> tech does it, it should be OK for a DIY job. Since the ball joint stud is
> tapered, hitting the part it goes through causes it to pop out. At least it
> did for me. Also, I had no problem with the axle nut on my Civic using a
> cheater bar on a 1/2" ratchet. YMMV.
>
> WW
in my experience, that's pretty lucky, particularly for vehicles that
have been anywhere near the rust belt. the only 100% reliable way to
seperate the ball joint without damaging anything is to use a tool like
this:
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and /completely/
reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the cost of
sweating & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause damage and
still may not work.
03-17-2005 | 09:37 AM
#42
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
rynniki wrote:
> another thing can the leaking boots cause the bearing or hub to go bad? one
> person i talked to said yes and another one said no.please help i dont want
> to put more money out than i have to
the axle failure rarely causes the bearing to go bad, but it's not
uncommon for bearings to be ruined by the axle guy pounding on the axle
stub - brinells the bearing races.
if you can, find someone that knows what they're doing & you should have
no problems. grease leakage does /not/ effect the bearing.
> another thing can the leaking boots cause the bearing or hub to go bad? one
> person i talked to said yes and another one said no.please help i dont want
> to put more money out than i have to
the axle failure rarely causes the bearing to go bad, but it's not
uncommon for bearings to be ruined by the axle guy pounding on the axle
stub - brinells the bearing races.
if you can, find someone that knows what they're doing & you should have
no problems. grease leakage does /not/ effect the bearing.
03-17-2005 | 09:37 AM
#43
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
rynniki wrote:
> another thing can the leaking boots cause the bearing or hub to go bad? one
> person i talked to said yes and another one said no.please help i dont want
> to put more money out than i have to
the axle failure rarely causes the bearing to go bad, but it's not
uncommon for bearings to be ruined by the axle guy pounding on the axle
stub - brinells the bearing races.
if you can, find someone that knows what they're doing & you should have
no problems. grease leakage does /not/ effect the bearing.
> another thing can the leaking boots cause the bearing or hub to go bad? one
> person i talked to said yes and another one said no.please help i dont want
> to put more money out than i have to
the axle failure rarely causes the bearing to go bad, but it's not
uncommon for bearings to be ruined by the axle guy pounding on the axle
stub - brinells the bearing races.
if you can, find someone that knows what they're doing & you should have
no problems. grease leakage does /not/ effect the bearing.
03-17-2005 | 10:14 AM
#44
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in
news:1111069814.308af121deb027854857b7c817844313@t eranews:
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
>
> this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and
> /completely/ reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the
> cost of sweating & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause
> damage and still may not work.
>
>
Wonderful link!! It's such an easy addition that I've already put it into
the FAQ.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints
As far as I'm concerned, the price of $48 US is peanuts for something that
makes a super-ugly job an easy one.
Thanks.
And just in case anyone ends up searching this in Google Groups, the tool
information is:
Ball Joint Separator OTC6297
about $48US
Owatonna Tool Co.
655 Eisenhower Drive
Owatonna, MN 55060
800-533-6127 | 507-455-7000
International Sales: 507-455-7223
Fax: 507-455-7451
www.otctools.com
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:1111069814.308af121deb027854857b7c817844313@t eranews:
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
>
> this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and
> /completely/ reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the
> cost of sweating & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause
> damage and still may not work.
>
>
Wonderful link!! It's such an easy addition that I've already put it into
the FAQ.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints
As far as I'm concerned, the price of $48 US is peanuts for something that
makes a super-ugly job an easy one.
Thanks.
And just in case anyone ends up searching this in Google Groups, the tool
information is:
Ball Joint Separator OTC6297
about $48US
Owatonna Tool Co.
655 Eisenhower Drive
Owatonna, MN 55060
800-533-6127 | 507-455-7000
International Sales: 507-455-7223
Fax: 507-455-7451
www.otctools.com
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
03-17-2005 | 10:14 AM
#45
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: cv boot or cv joint
jim beam <nospam@example.net> wrote in
news:1111069814.308af121deb027854857b7c817844313@t eranews:
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
>
> this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and
> /completely/ reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the
> cost of sweating & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause
> damage and still may not work.
>
>
Wonderful link!! It's such an easy addition that I've already put it into
the FAQ.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints
As far as I'm concerned, the price of $48 US is peanuts for something that
makes a super-ugly job an easy one.
Thanks.
And just in case anyone ends up searching this in Google Groups, the tool
information is:
Ball Joint Separator OTC6297
about $48US
Owatonna Tool Co.
655 Eisenhower Drive
Owatonna, MN 55060
800-533-6127 | 507-455-7000
International Sales: 507-455-7223
Fax: 507-455-7451
www.otctools.com
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/
news:1111069814.308af121deb027854857b7c817844313@t eranews:
> http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?P...OD&ProdID=6556
>
> this design is like the honda factory recommended tool and
> /completely/ reliable. the price of the tool is small compared to the
> cost of sweating & swearing, then resorting to "methods" that cause
> damage and still may not work.
>
>
Wonderful link!! It's such an easy addition that I've already put it into
the FAQ.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#balljoints
As far as I'm concerned, the price of $48 US is peanuts for something that
makes a super-ugly job an easy one.
Thanks.
And just in case anyone ends up searching this in Google Groups, the tool
information is:
Ball Joint Separator OTC6297
about $48US
Owatonna Tool Co.
655 Eisenhower Drive
Owatonna, MN 55060
800-533-6127 | 507-455-7000
International Sales: 507-455-7223
Fax: 507-455-7451
www.otctools.com
--
TeGGeR®
The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/