Grumpy AuContraire <Grumpy@ExtraGrumpyville.com> wrote in
news:Yn4Xk.43124$_Y1.1081@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:


> And, that good ol' SR-71 leaked fuel like a sieve until reaching
> altitude and speed. Still, nothing has been built to be its equal.

that we KNOW about;remember that the Blackbird flew for many years before
it became public knowledge.

(is Aurora it's replacement?)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

Jim Yanik wrote:
> Grumpy AuContraire <Grumpy@ExtraGrumpyville.com> wrote in
> news:Yn4Xk.43124$_Y1.1081@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:
>
>
>
>>And, that good ol' SR-71 leaked fuel like a sieve until reaching
>>altitude and speed. Still, nothing has been built to be its equal.
>
>
> that we KNOW about;remember that the Blackbird flew for many years before
> it became public knowledge.
>
> (is Aurora it's replacement?)
>


Hard to say... Don't have Kelly Johnson's skunk works anymore. Hard to
keep things under wraps in this political correct world..

JT

 

On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 12:59:18 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv>
wrote:

>Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote in
>news:Xns9B5F4EF6228A7tegger@208.90.168.18:
>
>> Flatlander <flatlander47@***.net> wrote in
>> news8ahi49o760l9j04r1m4fgg2hbdttlh0qu@4ax.com:
>>
>>> I've got an '87 CRX that has had something break in the headlight
>>> housing. The left headlight has tilted itself down so that it shines
>>> about 6' in front of the car. The adjusters, of course, don't work.
>>> I assume a spring, an attachment in the headlinght housing or some
>>> such thing has broken or come loose.
>>>
>>> Has anyone been into this to know how big a job I'm in for? I'm
>>> pretty sure I've got to pull the front bumper to get access to the
>>> housing. Any other advice or things to watch out for?
>>
>>
>>
>> Does this vehicle have the old-style rectangular sealed beams, or does
>> it have flush-type aerodynamic lenses?
>>
>>
>
>
>
>I just realized I have a service manual for the '88 CRX. It looks like that
>car has the same type of flush headlamps as other Hondas of the era.
>
>Your assembly likely has broken adjuster pins, which go into the plastic
>backing of the reflector. Impacts cause the pins to break off the
>reflector. There's no fix for this except to get a replacement headlamp
>from the wreckers.
>
>Why don't you remove the headlamp and have a good look at the pins? You
>need to remove the front bumper in order to get at the bottom two bolts of
>the headlamp assembly.

They're flush halogen headlamps. It turned out the pins weren't
broken. The headlamp flange that rides on the adjuster screw had
"pulled through", causing the headlamp to flop down. I suppose it
could have been repaired by straightening the bent flange. Since I'd
already gotten a new headlight housing from a salvage yard, I put that
in instead.

It was one of those jobs that took 2 hours but could be done again in
45 minutes. Not bad at all. Information I have from the manuals
isn't quite correct for the '87 model. If you know what you're doing,
you can remove two bolts and slide the bumper/bumper cover off as an
assembly. The side marker lamp assembly has to be removed to get
access to one of the bolts holding the headlight housing in.

It turned out to be much easier to remove the bumper cover first and
then pull the bumper off. It's just easier to see what's going on
when you do it that way. With the cover off, it's also a lot easier
to get the bumper aligned with the attachment holes when putting it
back together.

And, of course, there has to be at least one revolting development
when you do stuff like this. In my case, it was discovering that the
right hand CV joint has a tear in it. It must have happened in the
last 2 months, since it was ok when I changed oil in October. No
noises coming from the thing yet.

The car has 149,470 miles on it. CV joints were previously replaced
at 72,900 (LH) and 74,970 (RH). That was back in 1998. About normal
life for CV boots from what I hear.

 

Flatlander <flatlander47@***.net> wrote in
news:7p58k49gu0mdg13uvad2sdchpe2d676t4n@4ax.com:

> On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 12:59:18 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv>
> wrote:
>
>>Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote in
>>news:Xns9B5F4EF6228A7tegger@208.90.168.18:
>>
>>> Flatlander <flatlander47@***.net> wrote in
>>> news8ahi49o760l9j04r1m4fgg2hbdttlh0qu@4ax.com:
>>>
>>>> I've got an '87 CRX that has had something break in the headlight
>>>> housing. The left headlight has tilted itself down so that it
>>>> shines about 6' in front of the car. The adjusters, of course,
>>>> don't work. I assume a spring, an attachment in the headlinght
>>>> housing or some such thing has broken or come loose.
>>>>
>>>> Has anyone been into this to know how big a job I'm in for? I'm
>>>> pretty sure I've got to pull the front bumper to get access to the
>>>> housing. Any other advice or things to watch out for?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Does this vehicle have the old-style rectangular sealed beams, or
>>> does it have flush-type aerodynamic lenses?
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>I just realized I have a service manual for the '88 CRX. It looks like
>>that car has the same type of flush headlamps as other Hondas of the
>>era.
>>
>>Your assembly likely has broken adjuster pins, which go into the
>>plastic backing of the reflector. Impacts cause the pins to break off
>>the reflector. There's no fix for this except to get a replacement
>>headlamp from the wreckers.
>>
>>Why don't you remove the headlamp and have a good look at the pins?
>>You need to remove the front bumper in order to get at the bottom two
>>bolts of the headlamp assembly.
>
> They're flush halogen headlamps. It turned out the pins weren't
> broken. The headlamp flange that rides on the adjuster screw had
> "pulled through", causing the headlamp to flop down. I suppose it
> could have been repaired by straightening the bent flange. Since I'd
> already gotten a new headlight housing from a salvage yard, I put that
> in instead.
>
> It was one of those jobs that took 2 hours but could be done again in
> 45 minutes. Not bad at all. Information I have from the manuals
> isn't quite correct for the '87 model. If you know what you're doing,
> you can remove two bolts and slide the bumper/bumper cover off as an
> assembly. The side marker lamp assembly has to be removed to get
> access to one of the bolts holding the headlight housing in.
>
> It turned out to be much easier to remove the bumper cover first and
> then pull the bumper off. It's just easier to see what's going on
> when you do it that way. With the cover off, it's also a lot easier
> to get the bumper aligned with the attachment holes when putting it
> back together.
>
> And, of course, there has to be at least one revolting development
> when you do stuff like this. In my case, it was discovering that the
> right hand CV joint has a tear in it. It must have happened in the
> last 2 months, since it was ok when I changed oil in October. No
> noises coming from the thing yet.
>
> The car has 149,470 miles on it. CV joints were previously replaced
> at 72,900 (LH) and 74,970 (RH). That was back in 1998. About normal
> life for CV boots from what I hear.



Thanks for the update. should help others who may be Googling for the
same problem.

And that short boot life is typical of aftermarket boots. OEM ones last
about 8 years (much longer for the newest plastic ones), and take two
years or so to split from the first sign of cracking.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/

 

On Mon, 15 Dec 2008 17:36:38 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv>
wrote:

>Flatlander <flatlander47@***.net> wrote in
>news:7p58k49gu0mdg13uvad2sdchpe2d676t4n@4ax.com :
>
>> On Sun, 23 Nov 2008 12:59:18 +0000 (UTC), Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>Tegger <invalid@invalid.inv> wrote in
>>>news:Xns9B5F4EF6228A7tegger@208.90.168.18:
>>>
>>>> Flatlander <flatlander47@***.net> wrote in
>>>> news8ahi49o760l9j04r1m4fgg2hbdttlh0qu@4ax.com:
>>>>
>>>>> I've got an '87 CRX that has had something break in the headlight
>>>>> housing. The left headlight has tilted itself down so that it
>>>>> shines about 6' in front of the car. The adjusters, of course,
>>>>> don't work. I assume a spring, an attachment in the headlinght
>>>>> housing or some such thing has broken or come loose.
>>>>>
>>>>> Has anyone been into this to know how big a job I'm in for? I'm
>>>>> pretty sure I've got to pull the front bumper to get access to the
>>>>> housing. Any other advice or things to watch out for?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Does this vehicle have the old-style rectangular sealed beams, or
>>>> does it have flush-type aerodynamic lenses?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>I just realized I have a service manual for the '88 CRX. It looks like
>>>that car has the same type of flush headlamps as other Hondas of the
>>>era.
>>>
>>>Your assembly likely has broken adjuster pins, which go into the
>>>plastic backing of the reflector. Impacts cause the pins to break off
>>>the reflector. There's no fix for this except to get a replacement
>>>headlamp from the wreckers.
>>>
>>>Why don't you remove the headlamp and have a good look at the pins?
>>>You need to remove the front bumper in order to get at the bottom two
>>>bolts of the headlamp assembly.
>>
>> They're flush halogen headlamps. It turned out the pins weren't
>> broken. The headlamp flange that rides on the adjuster screw had
>> "pulled through", causing the headlamp to flop down. I suppose it
>> could have been repaired by straightening the bent flange. Since I'd
>> already gotten a new headlight housing from a salvage yard, I put that
>> in instead.
>>
>> It was one of those jobs that took 2 hours but could be done again in
>> 45 minutes. Not bad at all. Information I have from the manuals
>> isn't quite correct for the '87 model. If you know what you're doing,
>> you can remove two bolts and slide the bumper/bumper cover off as an
>> assembly. The side marker lamp assembly has to be removed to get
>> access to one of the bolts holding the headlight housing in.
>>
>> It turned out to be much easier to remove the bumper cover first and
>> then pull the bumper off. It's just easier to see what's going on
>> when you do it that way. With the cover off, it's also a lot easier
>> to get the bumper aligned with the attachment holes when putting it
>> back together.
>>
>> And, of course, there has to be at least one revolting development
>> when you do stuff like this. In my case, it was discovering that the
>> right hand CV joint has a tear in it. It must have happened in the
>> last 2 months, since it was ok when I changed oil in October. No
>> noises coming from the thing yet.
>>
>> The car has 149,470 miles on it. CV joints were previously replaced
>> at 72,900 (LH) and 74,970 (RH). That was back in 1998. About normal
>> life for CV boots from what I hear.
>
>
>
>Thanks for the update. should help others who may be Googling for the
>same problem.

Yeah, I've noticed a dearth of information on this issue in forums
other than here. Wish I had taken more pictures to document the work,
although it wasn't a big deal.

>And that short boot life is typical of aftermarket boots. OEM ones last
>about 8 years (much longer for the newest plastic ones), and take two
>years or so to split from the first sign of cracking.

Figures. I think I had these put on at Midas...or somewhere like
that. Before everyone attacks, it was the daughter's car at the
time. She was away at college. Only time I could get it was usually
Sundays. Midas was one of the few places open then. I'm not a fan of
the non-standard exhaust work they did on it, by the way...

Anyhow, thanks for the advice. I'll get the OEM boots put on.

 

Flatlander <flatlander47@***.net> wrote in
news:cf1ek41f6q388t23eabtsdk6kfb2e7fdhe@4ax.com:


>
> Anyhow, thanks for the advice. I'll get the OEM boots put on.
>


Not much point in putting OEM boots on aftermarket joints. The joints
themselves are unlikely to last another 8 years. Besides, OEM boots are
expensive.

I'd just replace these boots with aftermarket ones.


--
Tegger

The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ
www.tegger.com/hondafaq/