'Curly Q. Links' wrote:
> trestonklease@yahoo.com wrote:
> >
> > I bought a 1999 CRV a while ago and recenty had the valves adjusted.
> <SNIP>
> European manuals say 50,000Km for the valves (30,000 Miles). The Dual
> pump Fluid only lasts 50,000 Km / two years.
> An oil change might make that valve quiet down, but Tegger's right, it's
> a 'happy valve' as long as the mechanic didn't fail tighten the locknut
> :-)

Would it have to be a constant, rhythmic tick for it to be a valve?

It's like random,
tick-tick-pause-pause-pause-tick-pause-pause-tick-tick-tick...

I just changed the oil about 3 weeks ago. I assume I'd have to open the
valve cover to see if it's the locknut? It's been run about 2500 miles
since I first noticed the ticking, if it was the locknut, would it have
done something more by now, like fall off or cause some other problem?
I've never done something like pull the valve cover on a vehicle so I'm
a little apprehensive at that prospect.

> Add all the extra DOTS to your owner's manual maintenance schedule, and
> you'll impress the person you sell it to in ten years.

I'm gonna run it forever.

> The TBelt has 6 years on it. I think it's time anyway. Personally, I
> wouldn't change the water pump unless I knew the former owner was using
> non-honda coolant or TAP WATER (Hondacide). The idler pulley will
> probably last until the fourth or fifth TBelt, unless you're someplace
> really hot.

That's my main problem, no info on what the past owner did or didn't do
or what they used. I'll get that TBelt replaced then. Thanks for the
great info, all of you.

 

'Curly Q. Links' wrote:
> trestonklease@yahoo.com wrote:
> >
> > I bought a 1999 CRV <SNIP>
> > And lastly, this thing has so many clunks and bangs from the
> > suspension, it's very irritating. The dealer says they found nothing
> > abnormal and according to the work order "found no abnormal noises,
> > sounds like similar vehicles. What???? Honda engineered and built a
> > vehicle that sounds like this on purpose? They said the bushing are
> > good. Any suggestions on that?
> >
> > TIA.
>
> Do a google (or eBay) search for rear stabilizer links. You can get two
> for the price of one on eBay. The get very noisy when going over bumps.
> Clack clack. For the road test your dealer sent a mechanic who wears no
> hearing protection while using air tools. Find a bumpy dirt road and get
> your helper to (carefully) hang out the tailgate or door to see where
> it's coming from. You're supposed to be able to get them off with a
> 14?mm wrench and a 5mm allen wrench, but you should have a nut-splitter
> at the ready to cut the frustration level down. :-)
>
> 'Curly'

Thanks for that bit of info. I'll get my wife to drive it tomorrow
while I hang out back and listen.

 

trestonklease@yahoo.com wrote:
Find a bumpy dirt road and get
> > your helper to (carefully) hang out the tailgate or door to see where
> > it's coming from. You're supposed to be able to get them off with a
> > 14?mm wrench and a 5mm allen wrench, but you should have a nut-splitter
> > at the ready to cut the frustration level down. :-)
> >
> > 'Curly'
>
> Thanks for that bit of info. I'll get my wife to drive it tomorrow
> while I hang out back and listen.


--------------------------------

A camcorder (a light one) does a great job when you can't get your own
ear in close.

'Curly'

 

trestonklease@yahoo.com wrote:
> Would it have to be a constant, rhythmic tick for it to be a valve?
>
> It's like random,
> tick-tick-pause-pause-pause-tick-pause-pause-tick-tick-tick...
---
Sounds more like your PCV clicking. Use a couple feet of garden hose or
heater hose to listen for it. Pinch the hose and see if it changes the
noise.

----------------------
if it was the locknut, would it have
> done something more by now, like fall off or cause some other problem?
----
You'd have a misfire indication, or backfiring, or 25% power loss by now
(we were pulling your leg a bit)

------------------------

> That's my main problem, no info on what the past owner did or didn't do
> or what they used. I'll get that TBelt replaced then. Thanks for the
> great info, all of you.
---
Find the dealer where they had it serviced and just walk in. Tell them
you're the new owner (have registration in your pocket) and ask if
they'd please give you PRINTS of all the service. It always works for
me. Have them photocopy your registration and fax it to Honda CORPORATE
(whatever country you are in). Then you'll get future notification of
recalls, etc. While there, get the other info like actual date in
service, which location sold it, whether the ignition switch recall was
performed, and other outstanding recalls. Have you got the real owner's
manual, and the radio CODE (if needed)?


'Curly'

 

'Curly Q. Links' wrote:
> trestonklease@yahoo.com wrote:
> > Would it have to be a constant, rhythmic tick for it to be a valve?
> >
> > It's like random,
> > tick-tick-pause-pause-pause-tick-pause-pause-tick-tick-tick...
> ---
> Sounds more like your PCV clicking. Use a couple feet of garden hose or
> heater hose to listen for it. Pinch the hose and see if it changes the
> noise.
>
> ----------------------
> if it was the locknut, would it have
> > done something more by now, like fall off or cause some other problem?
> ----
> You'd have a misfire indication, or backfiring, or 25% power loss by now
> (we were pulling your leg a bit)
>
> ------------------------
>
> > That's my main problem, no info on what the past owner did or didn't do
> > or what they used. I'll get that TBelt replaced then. Thanks for the
> > great info, all of you.
> ---
> Find the dealer where they had it serviced and just walk in. Tell them
> you're the new owner (have registration in your pocket) and ask if
> they'd please give you PRINTS of all the service. It always works for
> me. Have them photocopy your registration and fax it to Honda CORPORATE
> (whatever country you are in). Then you'll get future notification of
> recalls, etc. While there, get the other info like actual date in
> service, which location sold it, whether the ignition switch recall was
> performed, and other outstanding recalls. Have you got the real owner's
> manual, and the radio CODE (if needed)?

Thanks for all the advice. Contacted the dealer today. I have the
original manual. Vehicle has an aftermarket CD player/radio that uses a
code that I picked myself.

 

trestonklease@yahoo.com wrote:
> Elle wrote:
>> <trestonklease@yahoo.com> wrote
>>> Elle wrote:
>>>> Does the ticking go away as the car warms up?
>>>>
>>>> <trestonklease@yahoo.com> wrote
>>>>> I bought a 1999 CRV a while ago and recenty had the valves adjusted.
>>>>> >From what I can find from the dealer, the valves had not been done
>>>>> before (it had 60k on the odo when I purchased). As per the info I got
>>>>> from this forum, I had them adjusted to the loose side of spec. Now
>>>>> when the vehicle is idling I hear a tick-tick from the driver side
>>>>> valve area. It's not a constant ticking that repeats in a distinctive
>>>>> pattern but sort of a random tick-tick that comes and goes. Any
>>>>> thoughts? Something to worry about? Cause? cure? Just let it be?
>>>>>
>>>>> I already had the rear-diff squeal and changed the fluid myself and
>>>>> it's a silent as can be now, thank you to the forum for that info. Also
>>>>> looking to replace the timing belt, water-pump and idler pulleys(sp?)
>>>>> at 90k, too soon? Not soon enough?
>>>> Do you have an owner's manual? It gives the miles/years for the timing
>>>> belt.
>>> Is that the same owners manual that tells me to have the valves
>>> adjusted at 105k or only if they get noisy?
>
>
>> I guess that's a no.
>> But I don't really know.
>
> I'm not sure where you want to go with this.
>
> Yes, I have an owners manual and it has information in it that is
> considered wrong among Honda enthusiasts. Hence there is good reason to
> seek the advice of others regardless of what the owners manual tells
> me.
>
>> One wiseass tends to dampen volunteer enthusiasm.
>
> I could say the same thing about your "owners manual" reply. I wasn't
> being a wise-***, I was stressing that the manual is not always
> correct. There are cases where simply directing someone to their owners
> manual can be costly, I'm trying to avoid that.
>
Hmmm,
No common sense? Manual is just a guide line. My '98 CRV had absolutely
nothing wrong other than tires and one brake job not counting
incidentals like OFL. It logged 280K Km so far, no noise, no clunk, not
burning/leaking oil, no smoke from tail pipe. Oh, dash clock went dead
which I repaired once and it is dead again. I think the display tube
burnt out now. I intend to drive until it really fall apart.
I am getting itch to buy a new car but how can I abandon such a good
CRV? Wife and kids all drive new cars but not me.
I think that '99 CRV was abused, not broken in properly by first owner.